***Toyota Bible/FAQ 2.0 - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Truck and 4Runner
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-30-2011, 01:48 PM   #51 (permalink)
Gotta Pay to Play!
 
CountryChevy15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 169107
Location: Champaign, Illinois
Posts: 267
Donated
__________________
If At First You Don't Succeed... Hit It Harder or Build It Better.
CountryChevy15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 09:41 AM   #52 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Member # 70267
Location: Ridgeville SC
Posts: 259
RH Thread - Napa #269-2854 or AutoZone #ES2854x
LH Thread - Napa #269-2855 or AutoZone #ES2855x

I just picked up a ES2855x and it was RH thread.
__________________
Don't sweat it. Worst case scenario is your hand rots off and you get one of those cool hooks.
noflyzone is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 04-16-2012, 10:54 AM   #53 (permalink)
Registered User
 
2manyprojects's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 39901
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 2,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by noflyzone View Post
RH Thread - Napa #269-2854 or AutoZone #ES2854x
LH Thread - Napa #269-2855 or AutoZone #ES2855x

I just picked up a ES2855x and it was RH thread.
Did you check another? Website says for right side arm(passanger), and left hand threads. Could have been boxed wrong or web site's wrong?
__________________
[URL="http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655094[/url]"]my 90 project [/URL]

Save a tree, eat a beaver.

There are two keys to life, leverage and lubrication. Sometimes you need both.

Because there is no 2nd chances on Pirate!
2manyprojects is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 12:19 AM   #54 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 139159
Location: Yamhill co.
Posts: 2,581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimyad View Post
Adding something to this. Older Toyotas (such as Toyota stout) use the same 4cyl 8 inch 3rd member as later trucks and come with lower ratios. I picked up 2 Toyota stout 4.88s today for cheap.
also stated by dave from davez on you could also find factory 5.29's in the stout.
__________________
"You break on the trail, You BECOME the trail!" - drunk guy


[COLOR="Red"]MY BUILD [COLOR="Red"][URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1054083&highlight="]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1054083&highlight=[/URL][/COLOR][/COLOR]
85dhor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 09:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
ECGS Fabricator
 
stinkbomb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80166
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 871
Send a message via AIM to stinkbomb
Double Cardan (CV) Ball Seat Repair Kit

Rockford Driveline Part # 407-0 >>> crosses through NAPA to a PUJ 613
(Fits 415, 415B & 415D Stud Flanges) - (.470 I.D. Ball) 1979-1984 Toyota 4X4

Picture from NAPA:


Rockford Part # 409-0 >>> crosses through NAPA to a PUJ 614
(Fits 415A & 415C Stud Flanges) - (.511 I.D. Ball) 1985-1994 Toyota 4X4

Picture from NAPA:
__________________
-00 Pooper Duty, V-10, Lariat
-94 toy truggy, kinda...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...836&highlight=

www.eastcoastgearsupply.com
919-672-2705

www.mudprometalworks.com
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
stinkbomb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2012, 08:04 AM   #56 (permalink)
Newbie
 
coyote577's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 147297
Location: SE Idaho
Posts: 87
Blog Entries: 1
You might find these useful.
4.3 wiring diagram
blazer fsm
toyota vacuum diagrams
cam degreeing
beadlocks including acad dwg
afm adjustment
and more.

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=...KPO1pufAlQ88Hs

click on the folder pic to DOWNLOAD files
__________________
Give it a set of cohones, then baptize it in the mud,
pray to the rock gods, and wheel it till it croaks,
then resurrect it's bones, and drive it like its stolen.
Amen
____//,/___\,
[ _^ ____ ^ [oo]
~~ / \---------/ \
()_)~o~()_ ()_)~o~)_)

Last edited by coyote577; 05-09-2012 at 08:04 AM.
coyote577 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2012, 03:15 PM   #57 (permalink)
wayfastwhitey
 
slobuild57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Member # 94400
Location: amarillo, texas
Posts: 1,324
Was wanting to build these and become a vendor on here but didn't see myself making my money back so I'll share what I have. If you have looked into converting to propane then you know you need a way to bolt the carb(ca200) to the intake(on a carbed intake that is). Here is what I did.













There are other ways to mount one but this is how I've done a few.
__________________
92 Fj80 6bt, 1tons wife mobile
70 Fj40 1ton v8 241/205 42's
03 CTD toe rig
Texas Trail Buggy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blase View Post
what's it like to own a buggy........i'd say it's like getting a blow job on a roller coaster
slobuild57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2012, 11:10 PM   #58 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 782
All reported dead links have been fixed at this time. Tech posted in this thread has been added also.

I lost all my PMs when my star expired for no reason (canuckistan ownership), so if you PM'd me about a thread being added or a correction it was lost. I plan on going through to check the links over the next few days
__________________
Formula 4 build in progress:D
ColoradoToy91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2012, 12:48 AM   #59 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 782
All links have been fixed
__________________
Formula 4 build in progress:D
ColoradoToy91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2012, 11:18 AM   #60 (permalink)
Rock God
 
89lc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Member # 121143
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,073
Electric cooling fan switch temps are sometimes hard to find. This is a pretty good resource for finding a switch that has the range you want. http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...hp?showall=yes
__________________
I have a 4runner

Quote:
Originally Posted by daddytall View Post
I don't care what you want to smoke, who you want to poke. I don't care what you want to shoot or how many bullets you can have.
I just want people to mind their own business and leave me the fawk alone if I'm not fucking up thier shit.
89lc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:07 PM   #61 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
How to turbo propane a 22re

I have had many people ask about my motor and I figured that I should consolidate it into one thread.

***Discussion Thread for Q&A, updates, etc can be found here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...e-22re.html***


This is not a “how to do” but a “how I did” my turbocharged propane 22re motor. I am going to go over the things that I learned, did, and would like to change on this type of powerplant.


Powerplant


I started out with a 22re motor that I got out of a wrecked 87 standard cab. This is a standard high compression ratio (9.0:1) motor. Just for reference the 22r-te motor is a lower compression ratio at 7.5:1 (with 6 lbs of boost)


Turbo Type


I bought a new turbo from Carey at Propane Conversion Kits . He doesn't advertise them but runs them in his own rig and sold me one when I asked him over the phone. What I know of this turbo is that it is a Garrett T-3 and that it came off of a Volvo. What I dont know is the year or the type of car that it came out of. It has been fully rebuilt by a professional turbo rebuilder and the trim has been modified for optimal performance. It is built specifically for a propane powered 22r-re motor.





Propane kit


I also have a kit from Propane Conversion Kits . The kit is a EFI style. Not much more to say here besides great customer service and a product that is built for the application. Definitely not a forklift propane system.


Propane and turbo info


Propane is a 112 octane fuel in comparison to gas that is 87 octane. It weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon (lighter than gas) It burns cleaner that gas (leaves less carbon deposits) and extends motor life and motor oil changes. The energy density of propane is 91,690 BTU per gallon and the energy density of gasoline is 125,000 BTU per gallon. I thought this was interesting and took it from Wikipedia “ A high octane rated fuel, such as liquified petroleum gas (LPG), has a lower energy content than lower octane rated gasoline, resulting in an overall lower power output at the regular compression ratio of an engine run at on gasoline. However, with an engine tuned to the use of LPG (i.e. via higher compression ratios, such as 12:1 instead of 8:1), this lower power output can be overcome. This is because higher-octane fuels allow for a high compression ratio hence a higher cylinder temperature, which improves efficiency.”

Motors with turbos like high octane fuel since they are compressing air into the combustion chamber and need to overcome the lean condition that the extra air causes.

More from Wikipedia “ In addition to the use of intercoolers, it is common practice to add extra fuel to the intake air (known as "running an engine rich") for the sole purpose of cooling. The amount of extra fuel varies, but typically reduces the air-fuel ratio to between 11 and 13, instead of the stoichiometric 14.7 (in petrol engines). The extra fuel is not burned (as there is insufficient oxygen to complete the chemical reaction), instead it undergoes a phase change from vapor (liquid) to gas. This phase change absorbs heat, and the added mass of the extra fuel reduces the average kinetic energy of the charge and exhaust gas.”

The last statement is interesting because my mixer is set to run rich per Carey’s instructions. Also propane has a low boiling point of −42 C (−44*F) which makes it vaporize as soon as it is released from its pressurized container. This makes it a cold vapor ready to be mixed with air (no carburetor or other vaporizing device is required (like with gas) and is the reason for excellent throttle response.


How to make a turbo work with propane


Now this is a mechanical style of turbo. No computers or stand alone ignition systems. I will get into the mechanical distributor part in a bit.

This is a “blow through” type of system. This means that the fuel is ran through the turbo. Another style is the “blow by” system. This is when the fuel is picked up after the turbo. I am not going to talk about the “blow by” system.

Here is the A,B,C, one, two, three, of the propane turbo system. Air filter, propane mixer, turbo, throttle body, intake manifold and into the combustion cylinder. Of course there is charge tubes and elbows that tie this system together.

The reason this works is quite simple. The propane mixer is designed with a diaphragm that opens and closes with vacuum. As a motor creates more vacuum (air suction) the diaphragm opens to deliver the correct amount of propane per vacuum (mixers come in different sizes and have air-fuel adjustments on them). So what this means is that as the turbo begins to spool up and create boost (or more vacuum) the mixer opens up the diaphragm to allow the correct amount of fuel for the air entering the system. One could say that the turbo “tricks” the mixer into more fuel delivery.

Now one thing to keep in mind though. A volatile fuel mixture is flowing through the turbo, charge piping, throttle body and intake manifold. A engine backfire will cause a explosion in this system. I had this happen to me when I first fired my motor (timing on distributor was off) and I blew my charge pipe across the shop and against the wall. This is hard on the turbo and will usually damage the diaphragm to the point of rebuild.


Distributor


The reason that a mechanical advance distributor is needed is because of the way that the mixer mixes the air/fuel. There is no way that a stock Toyota ECU could (that I know of) be able to accurately sense what the air/fuel mixture is and be able to advance the timing at the same time correctly.


Oiling a turbo


One of the nice things about running propane is how clean the oil stays. It is really hard to believe until you see it for yourself. This means that you can go longer between oil changes and have less deposits in your motor/intake track (via the PCV valve)

Now turbos are oil cooled and lubricated so you should take some time in researching what type of oil you want to use. I went with a 10-30 Redline synthetic since it can withstand high heat (oil will coke in the turbo due to the heat after the engine and oil flow stops) but is still thick enough to handle the looser tolerances of a older style of motor.

There are three oil port choices on the 22r-re. But only two on the earlier R blocks before the 84. The first is the stock 22rte oil port. This is unmachined on non-turbo blocks. It is located right below and to the right of the block water drain plug on the driver side of the engine. It is shown here marked in white





IMOP this is a very poor choice to use as a oil feed. It would need to be machined of course but the kicker is that it is a solid vein that runs through the block and ties into another oil vein on the pass side of the block. That seems like a long way to drill with a very small window for mistake by me.

The second shown, marked in white





is the best overall choice IMOP. You can see the flat spot right on the oil vein and that would give a good place to tap and thread in a fitting. The best reason for this is that it is directly after the oil filter and would supply the turbo with filtered oil.

This is the easiest place to plumb in you oil feed line.





This one is a oil port directly behind the oil pump. It is located under the pass side motor mount. As you can see the oil pressure gauge sender is right in line along this vein. Both have the same thread pitch (28BSPT) and a adapter can be purchased to get it to -4. It was bought from LC Engineering but the link I had is now bad. I was going to put a oil filter in line to keep the turbo happy. I bought this from summit








And as you can see it wasnt going to filter anything. I bagged the idea since I became afraid if the filter was to fine or became clogged then I would starve the turbo for oil.

These are some pics of the feed line routing and how it is plumbed into the turbo.








The oil return is a very important part of the system. The oil is pumped to the turbo but after that it is gravity returned to the block. If the oil backs up the return line it will coke in the turbo. I have contemplated making a baffle system on my next build. It is very good practice to make the return line larger than the feed line with as straight of shot as you can get it.


This is a picture of a stock 22rte minus the turbo.


__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125

Last edited by DRM; 10-15-2012 at 11:18 AM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:20 PM   #62 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
In this picture you can see the stock oil feed line on the right and the stock oil return line and where it bolts to the block. It is a large flexible metal pipe that bolts to the block and returns through the block. This unmachined spot on a non-turbo block (84 and up) resembles Mickey Mouse ears and can be seen in my pic of how I drained my oil. One could machine this spot for a return if they wanted. It could be a better spot than mine since it is higher on the block and would help with side angles and oil backing up.

Now this is how I ran the return line on mine.





I ran a 5/8 high temp oil rated hose out of the turbo and welded a threaded bung into the oil pan.





Here is a list of what I bought for the oil feed and return line from ATP turbo





Water to the turbo


My turbo came with a water inlet and outlet so I decided to use them to help keep the turbo cooler. I have noticed that many people dont run water to them. I think it has to do with the added complexity.

This is a pic of the stock cooling system and how the water flows through it.





Here is a pic of how the water should flow through the turbo. Remember that hot water rises and if it is set in this configuration it will pull the cooler water up and keep circulating after the motor is shut off.





I started with two turbo specific parts. One is the metal section that sits in between the lower radiator hose and the feed hose to the water pump. The other is the feed hose to the water pump. I used these since the stock turbo water pump feed hose is made with a nipple to accommodate the stock CT-20 watering system. (these pics will help show the way that the lines are ran even though they are not in there final resting places)





I ran the water out of the turbo and brought the line around the block and plumbed it into the inlet radiator hose. This was a pain and quite the hardware store fab job. The local radiator shop said that they could braze a nipple in the radiator for me. I am still running a 2 core stock radiator but not very happy with it. My plan is to buy a turbo radiator (3 core and exact fit unlike the V-6 rad) and use the nipple already in it for the return line.





This is a problem that I have encountered. My water feed to the turbo leaks. I havent began to figure out this problem yet and I am sure is a contributing factor (non sealed cooling system) to my motor running at the 220* range on 90* days while out crawling with no air flow. On cooler days and in areas with more open trails (faster moving) it runs in the 190* range. I also drilled a small hole in the thermostat to keep the coolant flowing.





Water to the propane regulator


This picture is straight forward and to the point. I didnt need any of the EFI sensor stuff anymore so I found that these two spots let water flow. Water flows from the back of the water pump through the regulator and into the temp sensor cluster.





Take care when plumbing in new water lines. You do not want to have water flowing into itself or cutting off flow if plumbed into the heater system (turning on/off the heater)

This is a pic of a unused idea for my water flow in relation to the stock heater core water movement. You can see how easy it can be to stop water flow on accident.


__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-10-2012 at 07:38 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:32 PM   #63 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
Water to the heater


In the PNW heat is a must for the wife. This is the water lines for the heater core. Feed comes from the steel pipe that starts under the thermostat and wraps around the back of the block. You are unable to see the hose in this pic, just the steel pipe.





This is the return line that connects to the pipe that goes to the water pump inlet. The picture is looking straight up from the ground. You can also see the water outlet from the turbo.





This is the lines as they connect to the heater core. I made sure to add a filler to flush the core or add water (highest point in cooling system) if needed.





Intake Plume


The intake manifold needs to be modified. All but two holes in the plume must be plugged. One hole for the brake booster and the other for the PCV valve. Here is a pic of the injector holes plugged. I had some aluminum plugs made and Tig welded in.





The same for the holes on the side.





On a side note. The early model plumes turn down after the throttle body as the late model ones are straight. I was unable to use my early model plume since it made the turbo charge pipe connect with the radiator hose.


Exhaust Manifold


Now there are lots of options for exhaust manifolds. Some have the mount flange on the bottom like the stock 22r-te and others have a top mount. I have heard good things about SteedSpeed Steed Speed - Welcome to Steed speed performance inc. . I looked over a Dodge 5.9l Cummins manifold made by them and it was a CNC piece of art....

I used a stock 22r-te manifold as it was suggested to me by Carey. Take care with these manifolds though. They often have cracks in them due to a poor flowing turbo (stock CT-20) and the #3 - #4 ports being to close together.

Now I was stubborn when it came time to mount the turbo to the manifold. I was told to do it one way but it just didnt seem right to me..... Should have listened to the person who had done many before me... I will show you my costly and timely mistake.

The T-3 wont bolt up to the manifold (it will but bare with me here) so I purchased a adapter from LC Engineering (if it sounds expensive well, dont worry, it was)

This is the adapter. You can see how restrictive it was going to be.





So I did my best to match port them with a air dremel.





Now this is why all of that work and money was ill spent. The turbo needs to be rotated on the mounting flange. This allows room for the mixer/air cleaner on the air intake side and room for the coupler elbow on the air exhaust side (to intake manifold). Otherwise the exhaust manifold interferes with both as seen here.


__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:40 PM   #64 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
Now what I was told to do and finally did was this. Rotate the turbo 45* so the air intake moves away from the motor. Two of the four bolt holes will be used. They will not line up perfectly but a quick ream with a drill on the turbo will make them match up (see why I thought this was a bad idea to begin with?) You can see how it is put together here.





I wanted a good gasket so I made one out of sheet gasket maker.
and sent it to Remflex Remflex Exhaust Header / Manifold Gaskets . They made a run of four for me. I told them of the application though and to keep one as they may have others want to purchase them. They said they would and gave it a part #.









Turbo Brace and Manifold Studs


Another problem that the 22r-tes are prone to are the exhaust manifold studs stripping out due to the weight of the turbo hanging off the manifold. Although I didnt have this problem to start with I decided to just go ahead and helicoil them anyway (wasnt sure on the integrity of the aluminum threads). This is the size that you are looking for, Metric Thread Repair Kit Size: M10X1.25-12 Insert Part # # HEL-5543-10 . Napa part # is 7703020.

I also built a brace that bolts on from the turbo to the engine block.






Exhaust


The exhaust pipe is all custom made. I mostly used scrap that I collected from muffler shops.

First and formost, the exhaust flange on my T-3 is very close to a Chevy 2 3/4 tri-bolt. Just a bit of file work let it slip on.





I wanted as free flowing exhaust as possible. Turbos dont like to have back pressure so I went with a full on 3. The bends ended up tighter than a shop could make so I had to hand make them.








Like the stock pipe, I made a bracket to bolt the pipe to the motor.






__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:45 PM   #65 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
I ran the pipe at around 3’ for awhile. I was surprised how much the turbo toned down the noise with the pipe so short. You could also hear the turbo whistle very well also. In the end though I added more to the pipe. My skid plate trapped in the exhaust fumes and heat. My floor pan got to hot to touch! I put on a Morroso Spiral flow muffler. It had the least amount of internal resistance of a muffler that I could find besides a Glass Pack style (they jut dont last here in the PNW) I also ran the pipe out past the skid plate. The thing is super quiet now. My stock truck is louder.









Charge pipe and hose elbows


I used 2.5” OD exhaust pipe for the two pieces of charge pipe. This is a list for the hose elbows I used. I also suggest using appropriate sized T clamps. They have a greater clamping force than hose clamps

Throttle body to charge pipe: 2.75”- 2.5” 90* Charge pipe to charge pipe: 2.5”- 2.5” 60* Charge pipe to turbo outlet: 2.5”- 2” 60* Turbo inlet to propane mixer: 2.25” to 2.75” 90*









Distributor part 2


On a mechanical toyota distributor there are two vacuum ports. I plugged the first and used the second one. This is the port that moves the off idle advancement diaphragm in the distributor. I then ran the line to the throttle body. Make sure that the port you use gives vacuum (from the motor) while the throttle body is closed.








Throttle body upgrade


Some may have noticed that the throttle body looks a bit different than the stock 22-re. This is because I upgraded mine to a Supra/Cressida 5-mge model. The reason I did this was to enlarge the bore from 55mm to a 60mm.

If you are interested in this mod you can search “60mm throttle body upgrade” This is the link http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...plication.html


Wiring


The wiring is the same as a regular propane ran rig that has a Got Propane EFI kit . Just one wire to a solenoid that opens and closes a valve in the propane line from the tank to the regulator. Coils on a toyota are different from the carbed and EFI model trucks. I used a carbed coil.
__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-10-2012 at 07:40 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #66 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
How to set a internal wastegate (setting boost pressure)


This how I set the boost. First I will show the working parts and explain how they work. Then I will show how I was able to set it.

This is the internal waste gate. When open it equalizes the presser from the front to the back of the compressor fins.








The internal waste gate is moved by a adjustable actuator arm on the outside of the turbo. It is hooked to a vacuum diaphragm.





The boost is adjusted by the length of the actuator arm. In the above pic you can see that the arm threads in and out and also has a jam nut for its final setting.

The vacuum diaphragm has a port that a hose is hooked to and routed to the air exhaust side of the turbo. It is a gold colored nipple on this turbo.





I plumbed a T into this line and ran it to a boost gage.

This is how I set the boost pressure. I first started out with my gas shield bottle from my welder. I then used a vacuum gage and adjusted the pressure from the regulator to the wanted boost pressure.








I hooked up the turbo diaphragm to the welding shield bottle. I then just used my finger to feel for the waste gate to open when I cracked the bottle turn valve. This can take a few tries since the arm is adjusted by its overall length.






Steering arm modification


When installing the turbo I ran into a slight problem. The turbo sat about a 1/8 away from the steering rod. I knew that the motor would flex more than that and it would make contact when running.





My fix was this. I took two steering rods, a piece of straight rod, and a heim joint and made this.





This relocated the steering arm out of the way of the turbo.


__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 06:58 PM   #67 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
Mr Stubs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 102813
Location: PNW, land of liquid sunshine
Posts: 3,529
Tuning


Now this is going to disappoint quite a few. I dont have any real tuning tips. The best way is to use a wide band o2o sniffer. I was told by Carey that 15.5 to 16 on idle and 10.5 on rev is a good place to be. I was also told to run the mixer 3/4 to the rich side (turn knob on mixer) and start with turning the air/fuel spring all of the way out and then running it in for minimal tension on the spring.

I had a backfire and blew out my mixer (started the motor with the distributor off one tooth) This ruptured the diaphram inside the mixer and the air/fuel mix wouldnt change no matter how much I messed with it. I called Carey and set him the mixer. He rebuilt it and set it to work great on his truck. I never messed with any of the settings after that.

When I had the rig on the dyno I was able to advance my timing up to 10* and still not have any pre-detonation under wide open throttle.



Toyota engine specs and dyno numbers for my turbo conversion


This is a list of stock Toyota engine specs. It will give you a idea on what a stock turbo truck will do along with other engines and how it compares with my set-up. These are all at the flywheel numbers though.





This is my trucks specs at the time of dyno.

Engine type: Junkyard 22re

Compression: 9.0:1

Mechanical mods: Supra TB, 3" exhaust with Morriso free flow spiral muffler, Dual transfer cases, 35" and 39.5" tires, with 5:29 gears

Garret T-3 turbo on propane 7psi boost

Tuning: Mechanical distributor and timing set at 10*

Dyno type: Dyno Dynamics

Hp and Tq: *35" tires *113 Hp and 138 Tq * Stopped at 4600 rpm
** * * * * * * * *39.5" tires 116 Hp and 130 Tq *Stopped at 4600 rpm



And this is how mine did. I did some research and I feel that the flywheel numbers on it should be close to +40 on the HP and +30 on the torque.






Dyno run on Krunch - YouTube
__________________
My friends call me "The butcher"


Because I didnt know until now how important this really is.....

Outstanding businesses (going above and beyond) that I have dealt with to date:


Marlin Crawler
Hellfire Fabworks
Daves Offroad
gearinstalls.com (Zuk)


Local 125

Last edited by Mr Stubs; 10-10-2012 at 06:59 PM.
Mr Stubs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 04:29 PM   #68 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Member # 231056
Location: Deadwood SD
Posts: 151
Double Shackles

This bible is missing some a faQ on double shackle set ups.
Stevsie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 08:43 PM   #69 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Colorado
Posts: 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevsie View Post
This bible is missing some a faQ on double shackle set ups.
Stop trolling
__________________
Formula 4 build in progress:D
ColoradoToy91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2012, 08:23 PM   #70 (permalink)
Registered User
 
x*ALEX*J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Member # 112762
Location: Phoenix, reppin LA
Posts: 70
About to do my first motor install and I dont see a FAQ or a How To thread on putting together a 22re. I did find the 22r to 22re swap and did many searches on how to install, but no dice. I did download and printed the 11lb, 1000 page FSM. but i would like some real life diagrams/pics/direction.

Can someone please direct me to a thread that can do this for me.

Thanks
__________________
4LowCo
x*ALEX*J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 10:19 PM   #71 (permalink)
never enough time
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 129417
Location: Yucaipa CA
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by roqtoy View Post
I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.
-----------------------------------------------------------


What do you mean by set AFM 3 teeth rich? How is that done? I would like to try this. thanks in advance...


Harry
Take a razor blade and cut open the black plastic cover on the Afm, you will see a small spring loaded gear. Mark it's current setting with a sharpie then loosen the set screw and reset it 1 to 3 teeth, I don't remember but I think you rotate it counter clockwise. I recommend 2 teeth that's what I'm running. When you find the setting you like silicon the cover back on.[/QUOTE]

first time ive seen this explained figured id throw it here
__________________
86 runner rode hard and put away wet
91 runner likes money more than your ex wife
03 Chevy Gasaholic
DCHoerunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 07:21 AM   #72 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Member # 162569
Posts: 8
donated
quadboy400 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2013, 03:37 PM   #73 (permalink)
White Trash Fab
 
smewhtguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Member # 100827
Location: murfreesboro Tn
Posts: 7,746
Send a message via AIM to smewhtguy
Great thread on gear setup.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...rs-course.html
__________________
"If you are gonna live life on the edge you better have good balance"

The "Trifecta"
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1027210
DirtyGirl build
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...irty-girl.html
smewhtguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 01:57 PM   #74 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 143131
Location: Easystreet
Posts: 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by shamb View Post
The link for rebuilding front axle doesn't work anymore. Not sure if anyone has posted this yet but here's a full FSM.

Axle starts at page 570 I believe.

http://www.functionalfab.com/resourc...%204runner.pdf

THANKS
__________________
GET IT
xj chopper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2013, 08:54 AM   #75 (permalink)
I See You
 
Provience's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 138976
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 4,094
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTCsk8er View Post
I used the second port on the block, under the engine mount. Idle PSI is usually around 20psi. Here is all that I used:


1/8 BSP to 1/8NPT
1/8NPT 90deg adapter
1/8 NPT to 4AN
4AN 4ft Braided line
4AN to 1/8NPT
1/8NPT to 1/8 copper tube compression
about 3 ft of copper tube
1/8 compression to back of gauge.

And the pics:




I need to get this thrown into the bible sometime soon..

Mechanical Oil Pressure Sending unit install.
__________________
Up is difficult. Down is dangerous.

I Like Bright Colors

Romans 1:28-32

Matthews 7:15-20

John 14

Surah 109


For the best deal on 8 lug disc brakes click here--> www.lugnut4x4.com
Provience is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply





Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.