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***Toyota Bible/FAQ 2.0

855K views 84 replies 58 participants last post by  lunarmist02 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Last Update-7/15/2012 @ 12:11 am

Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ


Welcome to the new Toyota Bible and FAQ. With so many holes and issues with lost information in the past FAQ, we have revamped and updated thread link and all information in regards to pre 1995.5 Toyota Pickups and 4Runners

Help support The Rubicon Trail Foundation, make a donation and get PDF copy of the original FAQ. It can never be duplicated, and is THE source for the best of the best Toy tech. * Get your copy of the original FAQ here for donating a Min $10 to the RTF: Click here: Toyota Bible/FAQ 1.0 now available as a PDF *

--------------------NEW Disclaimer-----------------
Notify me (ColoradoToy91) or any other person who participated in the creating o this new Toyota Bible in regards to dead link and misleading information. Thank you :flipoff2:

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Pirate4x4.com Bulletin Board is known for its wealth of information and this Toyota Truck and 4Runner FAQ is designed to list the most common questions and answers that frequently get asked. The information in this post is a collection of everyone’s efforts to provide very accurate and detailed information but the website cannot be held responsible for mistakes. If you find false information and have good proof stating so, please contact the person that posted it so it can get corrected and will not mislead other people. Remember keeping the accuracy of this FAQ is a group effort.

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Previous Frequently Asked Question Databases Thanks guys!
Feb 2002 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110627 by Entropy
Old school http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/toytop.htm by Barney

How to Google to Search...

The search button is sometimes temporarily disabled for everyone but red star ( ) members due to unusually high server loads. So if you DON'T have a red star - buck up the $20/yr or use just use Google Advanced Search. Just put "www.pirate4x4.com" into the domain search field plus what your looking for. So if you want to find info on 7mge motor swaps, just type this into the google search field - "site: pirate4x4.com 7mge motor swap."

How to use the search feature for three letter words!

I understand that search leaves out three letter words, so here is a little information for the future. If you want to search for IFS (or any other three letter or number combination), use an asterisk () like this: IFS or *IFS. The search will use that as a wildcard and voíla!

Oh please remember that this is Pirate4x4.
:flipoff2: is a friendly smiley.
:flipoff: is NOT a friendly smiley.

And fully expect to get flamed if you ask a question that can be answered in this FAQ! We don't like answering the same question every week, week after week, hence why this FAQ was written, so you better read up if you plan to post questions here.

And for those that like to ask the same old questions, so you don't have to search for them, try these sites.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/
YotaTech Forums
Toyota SUV's & Trucks

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180


They are much "nicer" and more tolerant of the same questions being asked every week over there! But if you want hardcore tech - keep reading!

IN ADDITION TUESDAY IS THE ONLY DAY YOU MIGHT GET AN ANSWER TO A NOOB QUESTION. OTHER WISE SEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OR ASK IT IN THE APPROPRIATE FORUM---> Newbie General 4x4 Discussion

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THIS ENTIRE BIBLE IS IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER!!!!!

2wd to 4wd conversion FAQ the information thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=496869


AFM Info - Idle mixture screw drilled out? How to set if back to OEM spec
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=753926&highlight=


Ammo Can Dimensions
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=753929&highlight=ammo+dimensions


Axle info - Toyota

Toyota Mini Truck Front Axle Identification
79-80 no gusset
81-83 short gusset (to u-bolts)
84-85 long gusset (past u-bolts)

Stock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, SA Hubs
58.25" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, IFS Hubs
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide

Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks

FJ
FJ40-45 axles are 57" front, 56" rear.
FJ60-62 are 60".
FJ80s are 63.5".



Axle / Differential Breathers
The actual thread size for Toyota breathers is 1/8" British 28 Thread Per Inch.
1/8" NPT thread is close, but it is 27 Thread per inch.

Axle Rebuild Picture Thread, Toyota 8" Front Solid Axle
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml

Axle- Stock pre 1985 Picture Thread-
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9520893

Axle- One Ton/1 Ton Toyota Bible
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9648282#post9648282

Bellhousings - HUGE resource for engine swap bellhousings!!
http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740

Bellhousing bolt patterns by MarlinCrawler
84' to 03' Toy 5 speed trannies use two bellhousing to transmission bolt patterns.
small 9 bolt pattern
84-88' G52,54 carb 22R
89-95' G58 EFI 22R
85-88' W56 early EFI 22R
89-95' W56 late EFI 22R
96-03' W59 EFI 2.7

large 9 bolt pattern
86-87' R151F EFI Turbo 22R
88-95' R150F EFI 3.0V6
96-03' R150F EFI 3.4V6


Bikini Tops - 4Runners
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254738
Toyota 4Runner Soft Top Options
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167640




Birfield Stuff

Separating a birf from and axle

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=334839#post334839

What everyone needs to know about Longfields by desertoy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82923&highlight=Longfields
The above list should probably be also applied to any type of aftermarket Birfield / Marfield / Newfield/ Longfield/ Smurfield / WhateverField....

How to change one quickly Camo method
- Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
- Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
- Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
- Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
- Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
- Swap in your parts.
- Put it back together.
- It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.

Heres a post showing the slow method - but it "lets" you repack everything...
Longfield 30 spline & hub gear install

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482812&page=2


Bob length pictures for a 4Runner
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394500


Bobbing a 4Runner - First Gen
See http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132555 for a text version of an article I wrote on bobbing the back of a 4runner including the fiberglass top.
Update: Article pictures are now here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394399

Bobbing a 4Runner (Super-Bob)- First Gen
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62246
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=488188


Bobbing a 4Runner - Second Gen
See: How And Why My Truck Looks Like It Does

Bobbing a Bed for an extra cab on a std cab frame
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109638

Brake Tech

Brakes - Bleeding

This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...
Originally posted by Opp's
----------------------------------------------------
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)
----------------------------------------------------

Brakes-ErikB 1 Ton Master Cylinder upgrade-

Caliper Rebuild by tnum
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=770289&highlight=caliper

Brakes- Load Sensing Proportioning Valve Tech and Replacement
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489391

Brake Boosters - Single Vs Dual
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132252

Brake Boosters - Dual diaphram on First Gen (79-83)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564587

Brakes - Drum rebuild
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509586

Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare. ProComp #7210 are Longer than stock Stainless Steel brake lines. (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688 [EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]

The flexible rear brake line (goes from the hardline to the rear axle) is commonly used for extending the front and rear brakes lines since it has one male end and one female end. So when these lines are swapped inline with the stock lines, and you will have plenty of room for extra lift and flexy suspensions. The Napa #38256 is the stock length (19" long) rear flexible brake hose. Napa #36881 is 11" long if you need one a bit shorter.

Good source for custom SS Brakelines (recommended by steveh)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449419

Brake Master Cylinder info
In addition to the Rotor swap, some people like to put bigger MCs in so that they have more fluid movement. In this case, you want to acquire a Master Cylinder for a V6 truck or 4runner. It should be the 1" Bore. This is pretty much a bolt in replacement. Requiring you to move some brake lines slightly at worst.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251887

Brakes - Rear Disc / Disk Brakes FAQ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059
Detailed Disk Brake Write Up-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452546

Using All Toyota Parts-solid axle rotors, calipers
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=75186.msg900205#msg900205


Brake Rotor Swap – Vented Front

Some folks like to swap out their solid rotors for vented rotors. This is a simple and somewhat inexpensive modification. I did this swap because my brakes were getting very hot and making some very annoying noises. If you can change your brakes you should not have any problem with this swap.

79-80 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto hub with 6 bolts and the wheel studs are pressed into the hub only. For Land Cruiser vented brake swap you must use 79-80 LC rotors.
81-85 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are prasses through the hub and is pressed into the rotor. For the Land Cruiser vented rotor swap you must use 81+ LC rotors. Uses Toyota 90942-02053, Dorman #610-264 or Napa 641-3126 wheel studs.

The Landcruiser rotors are wider because they are vented but otherwise fit right on with no other modification besides the need to run a IFS caliper.
The caliper comes in two flavors... one has two larger pistons and two smaller, and another has four pistons that are the same size. The ones with four large pistons would technically give you more braking force. I used the same pads because mine were still fairly new... so you don't need new pads unless yours are low.

Build-Ups, Toyota Project Rigs - Ultimate Collection
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399607

Built Rigs - What's Your Trucks Specs / Typical / Standard Issue
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307983

Bumpers
Front winch bumper pictures:
1st gen- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=758289&highlight=front+bumpers
Rock Defense- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=773394&highlight=front+bumpers
Rear 4Runner Bumpers pictures:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482618
Square Tube Front Bumpers
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=765571&highlight=plate+bumper

Bump Stop Tech.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2920419#post2920419

Carburetor/Carb Tuning
22r Carburetor Picture Thread (very detailed)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14574247#post14574247
how to get it with a Toyota carb............
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=165996
Stock Carb Pictures-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=437673
22R Carburetor FAQ-


Caster Angle - Solid Axle
Stock = is 1°30' ± 45' positive.
Recommended for lifted vehicles with larger tires = 5-7° positive
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5942854#post5942854
Discussion about caster settings-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763994&highlight=caster+angle

Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures)
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800


Clutch Master by RocKrawler

Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didn't bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl reservoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the reservoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the reservoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops (again for newbies)
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticeable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.

Combination Turn Signal & Parking Light


Cone Washers

Cone Washers for Aisin or Asco Locking Hubs - 42323-60010
Cone washers for solid axle steering arms - 42323-60020

Cone washers are the washers that are behind the nuts holding on Toyota wheel hubs and steering arms.

Cone washers are a pain in the a$$. Anyone from the dry areas of the southwest will tell you that a good smack on the stud will loosen them up. If you are in or near the Midwest... forget that.

Using one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off.
• Soak it in something like PB Blaster
• Put the nut on the stud and hit the nut with a brass drift and hammer
• Use an air chisel - being careful of studs etc.
• Wedge a screwdriver or similar into the small slit of the washer
• Beat the hub housing like a red-headed step child with a hard plastic or rubber mallet. If worst comes to worst (and if you are in the Midwest it probably will) then you can try hitting the hub housing itself with a small sledge hammer. At this point you will want to hit it with one anyway. The trick is not hitting hard enough to damage it.

I (toy4crawlin) have heard to apply "Anti Seize" to cone washers to prevent them from sticking.

Crossmembers - Transfer case / T-case
Homemade, Aftermarket, Rotated, Flatbelly, High clearance, etc...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634019
 
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1
#60 ·
#61 · (Edited by Moderator)
How to turbo propane a 22re

I have had many people ask about my motor and I figured that I should consolidate it into one thread.

***Discussion Thread for Q&A, updates, etc can be found here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1097329-how-turbo-propane-22re.html***


This is not a “how to do” but a “how I did” my turbocharged propane 22re motor. I am going to go over the things that I learned, did, and would like to change on this type of powerplant.


Powerplant


I started out with a 22re motor that I got out of a wrecked 87 standard cab. This is a standard high compression ratio (9.0:1) motor. Just for reference the 22r-te motor is a lower compression ratio at 7.5:1 (with 6 lbs of boost)


Turbo Type


I bought a new turbo from Carey at Propane Conversion Kits . He doesn't advertise them but runs them in his own rig and sold me one when I asked him over the phone. What I know of this turbo is that it is a Garrett T-3 and that it came off of a Volvo. What I dont know is the year or the type of car that it came out of. It has been fully rebuilt by a professional turbo rebuilder and the trim has been modified for optimal performance. It is built specifically for a propane powered 22r-re motor.





Propane kit


I also have a kit from Propane Conversion Kits . The kit is a EFI style. Not much more to say here besides great customer service and a product that is built for the application. Definitely not a forklift propane system.


Propane and turbo info


Propane is a 112 octane fuel in comparison to gas that is 87 octane. It weighs 4.2 pounds per gallon (lighter than gas) It burns cleaner that gas (leaves less carbon deposits) and extends motor life and motor oil changes. The energy density of propane is 91,690 BTU per gallon and the energy density of gasoline is 125,000 BTU per gallon. I thought this was interesting and took it from Wikipedia “ A high octane rated fuel, such as liquified petroleum gas (LPG), has a lower energy content than lower octane rated gasoline, resulting in an overall lower power output at the regular compression ratio of an engine run at on gasoline. However, with an engine tuned to the use of LPG (i.e. via higher compression ratios, such as 12:1 instead of 8:1), this lower power output can be overcome. This is because higher-octane fuels allow for a high compression ratio hence a higher cylinder temperature, which improves efficiency.”

Motors with turbos like high octane fuel since they are compressing air into the combustion chamber and need to overcome the lean condition that the extra air causes.

More from Wikipedia “ In addition to the use of intercoolers, it is common practice to add extra fuel to the intake air (known as "running an engine rich") for the sole purpose of cooling. The amount of extra fuel varies, but typically reduces the air-fuel ratio to between 11 and 13, instead of the stoichiometric 14.7 (in petrol engines). The extra fuel is not burned (as there is insufficient oxygen to complete the chemical reaction), instead it undergoes a phase change from vapor (liquid) to gas. This phase change absorbs heat, and the added mass of the extra fuel reduces the average kinetic energy of the charge and exhaust gas.”

The last statement is interesting because my mixer is set to run rich per Carey’s instructions. Also propane has a low boiling point of −42 °C (−44*°F) which makes it vaporize as soon as it is released from its pressurized container. This makes it a cold vapor ready to be mixed with air (no carburetor or other vaporizing device is required (like with gas) and is the reason for excellent throttle response.


How to make a turbo work with propane


Now this is a mechanical style of turbo. No computers or stand alone ignition systems. I will get into the mechanical distributor part in a bit.

This is a “blow through” type of system. This means that the fuel is ran through the turbo. Another style is the “blow by” system. This is when the fuel is picked up after the turbo. I am not going to talk about the “blow by” system.

Here is the A,B,C, one, two, three, of the propane turbo system. Air filter, propane mixer, turbo, throttle body, intake manifold and into the combustion cylinder. Of course there is charge tubes and elbows that tie this system together.

The reason this works is quite simple. The propane mixer is designed with a diaphragm that opens and closes with vacuum. As a motor creates more vacuum (air suction) the diaphragm opens to deliver the correct amount of propane per vacuum (mixers come in different sizes and have air-fuel adjustments on them). So what this means is that as the turbo begins to spool up and create boost (or more vacuum) the mixer opens up the diaphragm to allow the correct amount of fuel for the air entering the system. One could say that the turbo “tricks” the mixer into more fuel delivery.

Now one thing to keep in mind though. A volatile fuel mixture is flowing through the turbo, charge piping, throttle body and intake manifold. A engine backfire will cause a explosion in this system. I had this happen to me when I first fired my motor (timing on distributor was off) and I blew my charge pipe across the shop and against the wall. This is hard on the turbo and will usually damage the diaphragm to the point of rebuild.


Distributor


The reason that a mechanical advance distributor is needed is because of the way that the mixer mixes the air/fuel. There is no way that a stock Toyota ECU could (that I know of) be able to accurately sense what the air/fuel mixture is and be able to advance the timing at the same time correctly.


Oiling a turbo


One of the nice things about running propane is how clean the oil stays. It is really hard to believe until you see it for yourself. This means that you can go longer between oil changes and have less deposits in your motor/intake track (via the PCV valve)

Now turbos are oil cooled and lubricated so you should take some time in researching what type of oil you want to use. I went with a 10-30 Redline synthetic since it can withstand high heat (oil will coke in the turbo due to the heat after the engine and oil flow stops) but is still thick enough to handle the looser tolerances of a older style of motor.

There are three oil port choices on the 22r-re. But only two on the earlier R blocks before the 84. The first is the stock 22rte oil port. This is unmachined on non-turbo blocks. It is located right below and to the right of the block water drain plug on the driver side of the engine. It is shown here marked in white





IMOP this is a very poor choice to use as a oil feed. It would need to be machined of course but the kicker is that it is a solid vein that runs through the block and ties into another oil vein on the pass side of the block. That seems like a long way to drill with a very small window for mistake by me.

The second shown, marked in white





is the best overall choice IMOP. You can see the flat spot right on the oil vein and that would give a good place to tap and thread in a fitting. The best reason for this is that it is directly after the oil filter and would supply the turbo with filtered oil.

This is the easiest place to plumb in you oil feed line.





This one is a oil port directly behind the oil pump. It is located under the pass side motor mount. As you can see the oil pressure gauge sender is right in line along this vein. Both have the same thread pitch (28BSPT) and a adapter can be purchased to get it to -4. It was bought from LC Engineering but the link I had is now bad. I was going to put a oil filter in line to keep the turbo happy. I bought this from summit








And as you can see it wasnt going to filter anything. I bagged the idea since I became afraid if the filter was to fine or became clogged then I would starve the turbo for oil.

These are some pics of the feed line routing and how it is plumbed into the turbo.








The oil return is a very important part of the system. The oil is pumped to the turbo but after that it is gravity returned to the block. If the oil backs up the return line it will coke in the turbo. I have contemplated making a baffle system on my next build. It is very good practice to make the return line larger than the feed line with as straight of shot as you can get it.


This is a picture of a stock 22rte minus the turbo.


 
#62 · (Edited)
In this picture you can see the stock oil feed line on the right and the stock oil return line and where it bolts to the block. It is a large flexible metal pipe that bolts to the block and returns through the block. This unmachined spot on a non-turbo block (84 and up) resembles Mickey Mouse ears and can be seen in my pic of how I drained my oil. One could machine this spot for a return if they wanted. It could be a better spot than mine since it is higher on the block and would help with side angles and oil backing up.

Now this is how I ran the return line on mine.





I ran a 5/8 high temp oil rated hose out of the turbo and welded a threaded bung into the oil pan.





Here is a list of what I bought for the oil feed and return line from ATP turbo





Water to the turbo


My turbo came with a water inlet and outlet so I decided to use them to help keep the turbo cooler. I have noticed that many people dont run water to them. I think it has to do with the added complexity.

This is a pic of the stock cooling system and how the water flows through it.





Here is a pic of how the water should flow through the turbo. Remember that hot water rises and if it is set in this configuration it will pull the cooler water up and keep circulating after the motor is shut off.





I started with two turbo specific parts. One is the metal section that sits in between the lower radiator hose and the feed hose to the water pump. The other is the feed hose to the water pump. I used these since the stock turbo water pump feed hose is made with a nipple to accommodate the stock CT-20 watering system. (these pics will help show the way that the lines are ran even though they are not in there final resting places)





I ran the water out of the turbo and brought the line around the block and plumbed it into the inlet radiator hose. This was a pain and quite the hardware store fab job. The local radiator shop said that they could braze a nipple in the radiator for me. I am still running a 2 core stock radiator but not very happy with it. My plan is to buy a turbo radiator (3 core and exact fit unlike the V-6 rad) and use the nipple already in it for the return line.





This is a problem that I have encountered. My water feed to the turbo leaks. I havent began to figure out this problem yet and I am sure is a contributing factor (non sealed cooling system) to my motor running at the 220* range on 90* days while out crawling with no air flow. On cooler days and in areas with more open trails (faster moving) it runs in the 190* range. I also drilled a small hole in the thermostat to keep the coolant flowing.





Water to the propane regulator


This picture is straight forward and to the point. I didnt need any of the EFI sensor stuff anymore so I found that these two spots let water flow. Water flows from the back of the water pump through the regulator and into the temp sensor cluster.





Take care when plumbing in new water lines. You do not want to have water flowing into itself or cutting off flow if plumbed into the heater system (turning on/off the heater)

This is a pic of a unused idea for my water flow in relation to the stock heater core water movement. You can see how easy it can be to stop water flow on accident.


 
#63 ·
Water to the heater


In the PNW heat is a must for the wife. This is the water lines for the heater core. Feed comes from the steel pipe that starts under the thermostat and wraps around the back of the block. You are unable to see the hose in this pic, just the steel pipe.





This is the return line that connects to the pipe that goes to the water pump inlet. The picture is looking straight up from the ground. You can also see the water outlet from the turbo.





This is the lines as they connect to the heater core. I made sure to add a filler to flush the core or add water (highest point in cooling system) if needed.





Intake Plume


The intake manifold needs to be modified. All but two holes in the plume must be plugged. One hole for the brake booster and the other for the PCV valve. Here is a pic of the injector holes plugged. I had some aluminum plugs made and Tig welded in.





The same for the holes on the side.





On a side note. The early model plumes turn down after the throttle body as the late model ones are straight. I was unable to use my early model plume since it made the turbo charge pipe connect with the radiator hose.


Exhaust Manifold


Now there are lots of options for exhaust manifolds. Some have the mount flange on the bottom like the stock 22r-te and others have a top mount. I have heard good things about SteedSpeed Steed Speed - Welcome to Steed speed performance inc. . I looked over a Dodge 5.9l Cummins manifold made by them and it was a CNC piece of art....

I used a stock 22r-te manifold as it was suggested to me by Carey. Take care with these manifolds though. They often have cracks in them due to a poor flowing turbo (stock CT-20) and the #3 - #4 ports being to close together.

Now I was stubborn when it came time to mount the turbo to the manifold. I was told to do it one way but it just didnt seem right to me..... Should have listened to the person who had done many before me... I will show you my costly and timely mistake.

The T-3 wont bolt up to the manifold (it will but bare with me here) so I purchased a adapter from LC Engineering (if it sounds expensive well, dont worry, it was)

This is the adapter. You can see how restrictive it was going to be.





So I did my best to match port them with a air dremel.





Now this is why all of that work and money was ill spent. The turbo needs to be rotated on the mounting flange. This allows room for the mixer/air cleaner on the air intake side and room for the coupler elbow on the air exhaust side (to intake manifold). Otherwise the exhaust manifold interferes with both as seen here.


 
#64 ·
Now what I was told to do and finally did was this. Rotate the turbo 45* so the air intake moves away from the motor. Two of the four bolt holes will be used. They will not line up perfectly but a quick ream with a drill on the turbo will make them match up (see why I thought this was a bad idea to begin with?) You can see how it is put together here.





I wanted a good gasket so I made one out of sheet gasket maker.
and sent it to Remflex Remflex Exhaust Header / Manifold Gaskets . They made a run of four for me. I told them of the application though and to keep one as they may have others want to purchase them. They said they would and gave it a part #.









Turbo Brace and Manifold Studs


Another problem that the 22r-te’s are prone to are the exhaust manifold studs stripping out due to the weight of the turbo hanging off the manifold. Although I didnt have this problem to start with I decided to just go ahead and helicoil them anyway (wasnt sure on the integrity of the aluminum threads). This is the size that you are looking for, Metric Thread Repair Kit Size: M10X1.25-12 Insert Part # # HEL-5543-10 . Napa part # is 7703020.

I also built a brace that bolts on from the turbo to the engine block.






Exhaust


The exhaust pipe is all custom made. I mostly used scrap that I collected from muffler shops.

First and formost, the exhaust flange on my T-3 is very close to a Chevy 2 3/4 tri-bolt. Just a bit of file work let it slip on.





I wanted as free flowing exhaust as possible. Turbos dont like to have back pressure so I went with a full on 3”. The bends ended up tighter than a shop could make so I had to hand make them.








Like the stock pipe, I made a bracket to bolt the pipe to the motor.






 
#65 · (Edited)
I ran the pipe at around 3’ for awhile. I was surprised how much the turbo toned down the noise with the pipe so short. You could also hear the turbo whistle very well also. In the end though I added more to the pipe. My skid plate trapped in the exhaust fumes and heat. My floor pan got to hot to touch! I put on a Morroso Spiral flow muffler. It had the least amount of internal resistance of a muffler that I could find besides a Glass Pack style (they jut dont last here in the PNW) I also ran the pipe out past the skid plate. The thing is super quiet now. My stock truck is louder.









Charge pipe and hose elbows


I used 2.5” OD exhaust pipe for the two pieces of charge pipe. This is a list for the hose elbows I used. I also suggest using appropriate sized T clamps. They have a greater clamping force than hose clamps

Throttle body to charge pipe: 2.75”- 2.5” 90* Charge pipe to charge pipe: 2.5”- 2.5” 60* Charge pipe to turbo outlet: 2.5”- 2” 60* Turbo inlet to propane mixer: 2.25” to 2.75” 90*









Distributor part 2


On a mechanical toyota distributor there are two vacuum ports. I plugged the first and used the second one. This is the port that moves the off idle advancement diaphragm in the distributor. I then ran the line to the throttle body. Make sure that the port you use gives vacuum (from the motor) while the throttle body is closed.








Throttle body upgrade


Some may have noticed that the throttle body looks a bit different than the stock 22-re. This is because I upgraded mine to a Supra/Cressida 5-mge model. The reason I did this was to enlarge the bore from 55mm to a 60mm.

If you are interested in this mod you can search “60mm throttle body upgrade” This is the link http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...m-throttle-body-upgrade-pane-application.html


Wiring


The wiring is the same as a regular propane ran rig that has a Got Propane EFI kit . Just one wire to a solenoid that opens and closes a valve in the propane line from the tank to the regulator. Coils on a toyota are different from the carbed and EFI model trucks. I used a carbed coil.
 
#66 ·
How to set a internal wastegate (setting boost pressure)


This how I set the boost. First I will show the working parts and explain how they work. Then I will show how I was able to set it.

This is the internal waste gate. When open it equalizes the presser from the front to the back of the compressor fins.








The internal waste gate is moved by a adjustable actuator arm on the outside of the turbo. It is hooked to a vacuum diaphragm.





The boost is adjusted by the length of the actuator arm. In the above pic you can see that the arm threads in and out and also has a jam nut for its final setting.

The vacuum diaphragm has a port that a hose is hooked to and routed to the air exhaust side of the turbo. It is a gold colored nipple on this turbo.





I plumbed a T into this line and ran it to a boost gage.

This is how I set the boost pressure. I first started out with my gas shield bottle from my welder. I then used a vacuum gage and adjusted the pressure from the regulator to the wanted boost pressure.








I hooked up the turbo diaphragm to the welding shield bottle. I then just used my finger to feel for the waste gate to open when I cracked the bottle turn valve. This can take a few tries since the arm is adjusted by its overall length.






Steering arm modification


When installing the turbo I ran into a slight problem. The turbo sat about a 1/8” away from the steering rod. I knew that the motor would flex more than that and it would make contact when running.





My fix was this. I took two steering rods, a piece of straight rod, and a heim joint and made this.





This relocated the steering arm out of the way of the turbo.


 
#67 · (Edited)
Tuning


Now this is going to disappoint quite a few. I dont have any real tuning tips. The best way is to use a wide band o2o sniffer. I was told by Carey that 15.5 to 16 on idle and 10.5 on rev is a good place to be. I was also told to run the mixer 3/4 to the rich side (turn knob on mixer) and start with turning the air/fuel spring all of the way out and then running it in for minimal tension on the spring.

I had a backfire and blew out my mixer (started the motor with the distributor off one tooth) This ruptured the diaphram inside the mixer and the air/fuel mix wouldnt change no matter how much I messed with it. I called Carey and set him the mixer. He rebuilt it and set it to work great on his truck. I never messed with any of the settings after that.

When I had the rig on the dyno I was able to advance my timing up to 10* and still not have any pre-detonation under wide open throttle.



Toyota engine specs and dyno numbers for my turbo conversion


This is a list of stock Toyota engine specs. It will give you a idea on what a stock turbo truck will do along with other engines and how it compares with my set-up. These are all at the flywheel numbers though.





This is my trucks specs at the time of dyno.

Engine type: Junkyard 22re

Compression: 9.0:1

Mechanical mods: Supra TB, 3" exhaust with Morriso free flow spiral muffler, Dual transfer cases, 35" and 39.5" tires, with 5:29 gears

Garret T-3 turbo on propane 7psi boost

Tuning: Mechanical distributor and timing set at 10*

Dyno type: Dyno Dynamics

Hp and Tq: *35" tires *113 Hp and 138 Tq * Stopped at 4600 rpm
** * * * * * * * *39.5" tires 116 Hp and 130 Tq *Stopped at 4600 rpm



And this is how mine did. I did some research and I feel that the flywheel numbers on it should be close to +40 on the HP and +30 on the torque.






Dyno run on Krunch - YouTube
 
#70 ·
About to do my first motor install and I dont see a FAQ or a How To thread on putting together a 22re. I did find the 22r to 22re swap and did many searches on how to install, but no dice. I did download and printed the 11lb, 1000 page FSM. :D but i would like some real life diagrams/pics/direction.

Can someone please direct me to a thread that can do this for me.

Thanks
 
#71 ·
I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.
-----------------------------------------------------------


What do you mean by set AFM 3 teeth rich? How is that done? I would like to try this. thanks in advance...


Harry
Take a razor blade and cut open the black plastic cover on the Afm, you will see a small spring loaded gear. Mark it's current setting with a sharpie then loosen the set screw and reset it 1 to 3 teeth, I don't remember but I think you rotate it counter clockwise. I recommend 2 teeth that's what I'm running. When you find the setting you like silicon the cover back on.[/QUOTE]

first time ive seen this explained figured id throw it here
 
#75 ·
I used the second port on the block, under the engine mount. Idle PSI is usually around 20psi. Here is all that I used:


1/8 BSP to 1/8NPT
1/8NPT 90deg adapter
1/8 NPT to 4AN
4AN 4ft Braided line
4AN to 1/8NPT
1/8NPT to 1/8 copper tube compression
about 3 ft of copper tube
1/8 compression to back of gauge.

And the pics:




I need to get this thrown into the bible sometime soon..

Mechanical Oil Pressure Sending unit install.
 
#76 · (Edited)
Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numers, 79-85 front axle:
Toyota #90366-17001-77
KOYO 30303D
SKF part# 30303j2



New part number for SKF bearing is BR30303, this should save some hassle if you get an idiot at the parts counter, as the last couple front diffs ive built needed trunion bearings and there was always some head scratching at the counter.

At least thats the case here in CANADA
 
#77 · (Edited)
Does anyone know the rear axle width (WMS to WMS) on the 2nd Gen Tacoma rear axle? 2005 and up? I see the 1995.5 and up listed as 60.75" wide (I think they are only actually 60")....but no mention of the new body style Taco.

Searched for over an hour here and on Tacoma Territory....no luck.

***********EDIT****************

I was told on Tacoma Territory that it's 65" wide. Hope this helps.
 
#79 · (Edited)
i know this goes against many posts on this forum, but my tape measure doesn't lie... stock mini front axle is 56.5" WMS to WMS. Please change the FAQ so people won't go through all the confusion i've had to. And please before you argue, pull out your tape and prove me wrong.
 
#80 ·
More Brake Caliper Info: Not all IFS are the same...

I don't see this anywhere here so thought I'd add this. I recently discovered that there are two different styles of "IFS" calipers and they share the same casting numbers 12+8.

Apparently some IFS trucks still used a solid rotor and therefore the rotor slot is narrower than the caliper fit for a vented rotor.

I have "IFS" calipers from an 88 on my truck and went to do the rotor swap and it didn't fit over the rotor. I ended up needing to get a new set of calipers and ended up with a set from a 91, the casting is S12W, it's the larger 4 equal 43mm pistons.

I measured the width of the rotor opening on my original calipers and it was around 15mm IIRC, the LC rotors are a tad over 19mm wide.

I searched the world wide web and found this over on ih8mud:
Front Caliper Year Advice | IH8MUD Forum
 
#81 ·
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...l-time-help-shackle-hole-location-tg-sas.html

from that thread.

How to properly install your trail-gear front spring hanger...or What they should update their instructions with.

From Scotty at Addicted Offroad

We do a lot of these swaps.

3" springs: Front hanger 1/4" back of flush(yes, towards the rear). Ther 3" Springs are an inch shorter than their 4s and 5s. Then push the shackle jig all the way forward in the body mount(not centered).

4" & 5" springs. Flush to 1/4" forward of flush max. Otherwise you are moving the steering box. Center the frame tube in the body mount.

Don't finish weld anything on the front hanger until you finish both the front and rear of the rig and set it level on the axles to check angles.

You want a 20* angle up front and a 25*-30* angle in back on a pickup.

On a 4runner, you want a 20* angle front and a 15* angle in back (due to weight). We also always run 1" taller springs in the rear than the front.

HD Springs are stiff as hell and are NOT needed unless he is running a V8.
 
#82 ·
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