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Old 04-01-2009, 02:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation ***Toyota Bible/FAQ 2.0

Last Update-7/15/2012 @ 12:11 am

Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ

Welcome to the new Toyota Bible and FAQ. With so many holes and issues with lost information in the past FAQ, we have revamped and updated thread link and all information in regards to pre 1995.5 Toyota Pickups and 4Runners

Help support The Rubicon Trail Foundation, make a donation and get PDF copy of the original FAQ. It can never be duplicated, and is THE source for the best of the best Toy tech. *** Get your copy of the original FAQ here for donating a Min $10 to the RTF: Click here: Toyota Bible/FAQ 1.0 now available as a PDF ***

--------------------NEW Disclaimer-----------------
Notify me (ColoradoToy91) or any other person who participated in the creating o this new Toyota Bible in regards to dead link and misleading information. Thank you

- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -

Pirate4x4.com Bulletin Board is known for its wealth of information and this Toyota Truck and 4Runner FAQ is designed to list the most common questions and answers that frequently get asked. The information in this post is a collection of everyone’s efforts to provide very accurate and detailed information but the website cannot be held responsible for mistakes. If you find false information and have good proof stating so, please contact the person that posted it so it can get corrected and will not mislead other people. Remember keeping the accuracy of this FAQ is a group effort.

- - - - - - - - - - - Disclaimer - - - - - - - - - - -

Previous Frequently Asked Question Databases Thanks guys!
Feb 2002 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=110627 by Entropy
Old school http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/toytop.htm by Barney

How to Google to Search .....

The search button is sometimes temporarily disabled for everyone but red star ( ) members due to unusually high server loads. So if you DON'T have a red star - buck up the $20/yr or use just use Google Advanced Search. Just put "www.pirate4x4.com" into the domain search field plus what your looking for. So if you want to find info on 7mge motor swaps, just type this into the google search field - "site: pirate4x4.com 7mge motor swap".

How to use the search feature for three letter words!

I understand that search leaves out three letter words, so here is a little information for the future. If you want to search for IFS (or any other three letter or number combination), use an asterisk (*) like this: IFS* or *IFS. The search will use that as a wildcard and voíla!

Oh please remember that this is Pirate4x4.
is a freindly smiley.
is NOT a freindly smiley.

And fully expect to get flamed if you ask a question that can be answered in this FAQ! We don't like answering the same question every week, week after week, hence why this FAQ was written, so you better read up if you plan to post questions here.

And for those that like to ask the same old questions, so you don't have to search for them, try these sites.


They are much "nicer" and more tolerant of the same questions being asked every week over there! But if you want hardcore tech - keep reading!




2wd to 4wd conversion faq the information thread

AFM Info - Idle mixture screw drilled out? How to set if back to OEM spec

Ammo Can Dimensions

Axle info - Toyota

Toyota Mini Truck Front Axle Identification
79-80 no gusset
81-83 short gusset (to u-bolts)
84-85 long gusset (past u-bolts)

Stock Toyota front axle measurements for comparison:
55.5" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, SA Hubs
58.25" wide, 29" spring perch centers, '79-85 Toyota trucks and 4runners, IFS Hubs
63.5" wide, (set up for coil springs) 90-97 FJ80 and FZJ80 Landcruisers
'86-95 IFS front end is about 58.5" wide
'93-98 T100 IFS front end is about 65" wide

Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks

FJ40-45 axles are 57" front, 56" rear.
FJ60-62 are 60".
FJ80s are 63.5".

Axle / Differential Breathers
The actual thread size for Toyota breathers is 1/8" British 28 Thread Per Inch.
1/8" NPT thread is close, but it is 27 Thread per inch.

Axle Rebuild Picture Thread, Toyota 8" Front Solid Axle

Axle- Stock pre 1985 Picture Thread-


Axle- One Ton/1 Ton Toyota Bible


Bellhousings - HUGE resource for engine swap bellhousings!!


Bellhousing bolt patterns by MarlinCrawler
84' to 03' Toy 5 speed trannies use two bellhousing to transmission bolt patterns.
small 9 bolt pattern
84-88' G52,54 carb 22R
89-95' G58 EFI 22R
85-88' W56 early EFI 22R
89-95' W56 late EFI 22R
96-03' W59 EFI 2.7

large 9 bolt pattern
86-87' R151F EFI Turbo 22R
88-95' R150F EFI 3.0V6
96-03' R150F EFI 3.4V6

Bikini Tops - 4Runners

Birfield Stuff

Separating a birf from and axle

What everyone needs to know about Longfields by desertoy
The above list should probably be also applied to any type of aftermarket Birfield / Marfield / Newfield/ Longfield/ Smurfield / WhateverField....

How to change one quickly Camo method

Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Swap in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.

Heres a post showing the slow method - but it "lets" you repack everything...
Longfield 30 spline & hub gear install


Bob length pictures for a 4Runner


Bobbing a 4Runner - First Gen
See http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=132555 for a text version of an article I wrote on bobbing the back of a 4runner including the fiberglass top.
Update: Article pictures are now here: /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/394399-4rnrrick-bobbing-4runner-pics-you-text.html

Bobbing a 4Runner (Super-Bob)- First Gen

Bobbing a 4Runner - Second Gen

See: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...bobbed+4runner

Bobbing a Bed for an extra cab on a std cab frame

Brake Tech

Brakes - Bleeding

This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...
Originally posted by Opp's
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

Brakes-ErikB 1 Ton Master Cylinder upgrade-


Caliper Rebuild by tnum

Brakes- Load Sensing Proportioning Valve Tech and Replacement

Brake Boosters - Single Vs Dual

Brake Boosters - Dual diaphram on First Gen (79-83)

Brakes - Drum rebuild

Brake Lines
Toyota Fittings are 10mm x 1.00 thread with an inverted flare.
ProComp #7210 are Longer than stock Stainless Steel brake lines. (set of three)
One piece 23" long replacement brake line for the front is Napa #38688
[EDIT: This turns out to be a front line from a 90-96 Nissan 300ZX if you wanna get one from somewhere else.]

The flexible rear brake line (goes from the hardline to the rear axle) is commonly used for extending the front and rear brakes lines since it has one male end and one female end. So when these lines are swapped inline with the stock lines, and you will have plenty of room for extra lift and flexy suspensions. The Napa #38256 is the stock length (19" long) rear flexible brake hose. Napa #36881 is 11" long if you need one a bit shorter.

Good source for custom SS Brakelines (recommended by steveh)

Brake Master Cylinder info
In addition to the Rotor swap, some people like to put bigger MCs in so that they have more fluid movement.
In this case, you want to acquire a Master Cylinder for a V6 truck or 4runner. It should be the 1" Bore. This is pretty much a bolt in replacement. Requiring you to move some brake lines slightly at worst.

Brakes - Rear Disc / Disk Brakes FAQ
Detailed Disk Brake Write Up-

Using All Toyota Parts-solid axle rotors, calipers

Brake Rotor Swap – Vented Front

Some folks like to swap out their solid rotors for vented rotors. This is a simple and somewhat inexpensive modification. I did this swap because my brakes were getting very hot and making some very annoying noises. If you can change your brakes you should not have any problem with this swap.

79-80 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto hub with 6 bolts and the wheel studs are pressed into the hub only. For Land Cruiser vented brake swap you must use 79-80 LC rotors.
81-85 toyota mini axles -> Rotor bolts onto the hub with 2 bolts and the wheel studs are prasses through the hub and is pressed into the rotor. For the Land Cruiser vented rotor swap you must use 81+ LC rotors. Uses Toyota 90942-02053, Dorman #610-264 or Napa 641-3126 wheel studs.

The Landcruiser rotors are wider because they are vented but otherwise fit right on with no other modification besides the need to run a IFS caliper.
The caliper comes in two flavors... one has two larger pistons and two smaller, and another has four pistons that are the same size. The ones with four large pistons would technically give you more braking force. I used the same pads because mine were still fairly new... so you don't need new pads unless yours are low.

Build-Ups, Toyota Project Rigs - Ultimate Collection

Built Rigs - Whats Your Trucks Specs / Typical / Standard Issue


Front winch bumper pictures:
1st gen- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=front+bumpers
Rock Defense- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=front+bumpers
Rear 4Runner Bumpers pictures:
Square Tube Front Bumpers

Bump Stop Tech.

Carburetor/Carb Tuning
22r Carburetor Picture Thread (very detailed)
how to get it with a toyota carb............
Stock Carb Pictures-
22R Carburetor FAQ-

Caster Angle - Solid Axle

Stock = is 1°30' ± 45' positive.
Recommended for lifted vehicles with larger tires = 5-7° positive
Discussion about caster settings-

Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures)

Clutch Master by RocKrawler

Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.

Combination Turn Signal & Parking Light

Cone Washers

Cone Washers for Aisin or Asco Locking Hubs - 42323-60010
Cone washers for solid axle steering arms - 42323-60020

Cone washers are the washers that are behind the nuts holding on Toyota wheel hubs and steering arms.
Cone washers are a pain in the a$$. Anyone from the dry areas of the southwest will tell you that a good smack on the stud will loosen them up. If you are in or near the Midwest... forget that.

Using one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off.
• Soak it in something like PB Blaster
• Put the nut on the stud and hit the nut with a brass drift and hammer
• Use an air chisel - being careful of studs etc
• Wedge a screwdriver or similar into the small slit of the washer
• Beat the hub housing like a red-headed step child with a hard plastic or rubber mallet. If worst comes to worst (and if you are in the Midwest it probably will) then you can try hitting the hub housing itself with a small sledge hammer. At this point you will want to hit it with one anyway. The trick is not hitting hard enough to damage it.

I (toy4crawlin) have heard to apply "Anti Seize" to cone washers to prevent them from sticking.

Crossmembers - Transfer case / T-case
Homemade, Aftermarket, Rotated, Flatbelly, High clearance, etc...
Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 07-14-2012 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Roxborough, CO
Posts: 904
Exclamation Continues.....

OEM SA Front Wheel Studs
Differentials – Gearing

Gearing..... with a 4 banger and single case
stock 4.10= 31 or smaller tire
4.88=33 inch tire
5.29= 35 to 38 inch tire.

Originally posted by DSI
83-older 4.11 diff's are 37/9 and are 8in 4cyl style diff's, in 84 they switched th the 41/10 ratio, any time you have more teeth to a pinion the stronger the diff will be, reason being: more tooth contact/more teeth contacting the ring gear at one time.
This is the same reason 5.71's are very weak, 6 teeth, 5.29's have 7, 4.88's and 4.38's have 8, 4.56's have 9 and 411's have 9, 410's have 10, and 390's have 10

Originally posted by TNToy
If you have the axle code of your vehicle, it is easy to find out what size differential, what ratio, and what pinion set-up you have. This will also help if you are hunting for a particular unit off another vehicle. The axle code is in the vehicle ID plate under the hood or drivers door. The axle code is 4 digits: a letter followed by 3 numbers.

Example: G292 = 8.0" 4.10 final ratio 2 pinion
F = 7.5" 07 = 3.900 2 = 2 pinion
G = 8.0" 08 = 4.110 3 = 2 pinion LSD
10 = 4.375 4 = 4 pinion
14 = 4.875 5 = 4 pinion LSD
25 = 4.556
28 = 4.300
29 = 4.100
31 = 3.91
38 = 3.42
43 = 3.56
54 = 3.90
66 = 3.07
Ratio Ring/Pinion Color Crawl:Ratio
3.42 ...42/12... Purple ...31:1
3.90 ...39/10... Red... ...36:1
4.10 ...41/10... Pink.. ...37:1
4.11 ...37/09... Orange ...37:1
4.30 ...43/10... Blue.. ...39:1
4.37 ...35/08... Green. ...40:1
4.56 ...41/09... Yellow ...41:1
4.88 ...39/08... White. ...44:1
5.29 ...37/07... None.. ...48:1
5.71 ...40/07... None.. ...51:1

Differentials – Info

General Toy diff info including identification with pictures.

"LPH" (Long Pinion Head) vs "SPH" (Short Pinion Head). by Drew Persson

Myth Settled: 8.4, V6, 4cyl, ALL 8" - by Brian Ellinger

Pluging ABS sensor hole in late model diffs

Differential picture identification by 4RnrRick

Toyota 4 pinoin 6 cylinder 8" diff (30 spline)

Toyota Land cruiser high pinion 8" diff (30 spline)

Toyota 4 pinion 6 cylinder 8" 3rd from a '96-00? 4Runner (30 spline)

E-locker actuator rebuild

Differential Mounting Differences Between Different 3rd Members


Differential - Shaved, Trussed, and Armored Axle Collection

/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/456309-shaved-trussed-armored-axle-collection.html by TheBandit

Differential Stud Upgrades - BEEF!!

Doors - Quick Release Hinges / Removable Doors

Info provided by Wheelie_Pete
To get the old factory pin out without a fuss, cut it in half as it sits in the hinge, then take a cold chisel and start tapping around the edge of the top of the pin. (The hinges should be removed from teh vehicle first.) This should start to pry the pin upwards, then, when you clear the swege marks on the pin you can just pull it out. Repeat for the bottom half.
If you manage to cut your hinges and then force out the stock pin without fawking up the brash bushing, then you can use a 5/16 (.3125") dia. x 2" long grip length pin perfectly. The stock door hinge bushings are 8mm (0.315" dia). My passanger's door hinges worked out this way and it works awesome! This works so well I can hardly believe it. The pin is upside down on the top hinge because there isn't enough room to drop it down through the top due to the shape of the door's edge. A sharp eye will notice that the lower bolt head on the door's half of the hinge is ground down. This is so you can clear the pin's shoulder by the bolt. It had to be done to get a straight up shot for the pin. Also when doing it this way you can retain the factory brass bushing which will keep the door tight and have that OEM fell. My driver's door's brass bushings in both hinges cracked when we tried to pull the stock pin so we had to drill them out to 3/8" and use a 3/8" Pin or bolt with the head ground down. This eventually wears on the hinges and Ifinally ended up replacing them with some I could use a 5/16 pin in.

Info provided by NoBrainR
I used spring pins and left the stock bushings in. About 30 seconds to take a door off and 2 minutes to put it back on with no help and perfect alignment each time. Had to grind a little off one bolt head per hinge.

Info provided by TNToy
Here's the route I went. It cost me six dollars. I carry a 12MM ratcheting box wrench ($6 from Sears) in the glove box. Prefect fix on the bolts without rounding them off... a non-ratcheting type tends to twist sideways and round off the bolt slightly with each use. Then you just do what's in the pic. It lets you loosen both bolts 2-3 turns and pull the door right off.

Info provided by JeepRecoveryTeam & Krusty
Just cut the hinge pins and the door simply lifts off !!!!-------- no bolts ,no pins , and no hastle---- 10 seconds off- 15 seconds on ! full doors and a set of .5 doors------on and off 'instantly' !

Info from Mr Stubs...
Loosen the top bolt and remove the bottom bolt.
This will allow for the door to be set and hung while you remove/replace the bottom bolt while quick changing doors.

Doors - Ultimate Collection of Half Door Pictures

Removable Doors with electric windows.

Drain Plugs - Low profile

Toyota Part #'s
90341-18021 Plug w/magnet $1.50-$2.00/ea.
12157-10010 Gasket, diff plug $0.75/ea.
90430-18008 Gasket, tranny/transfer $1.00/ea.

These plus will fit Toyota 7 1/2", 8" & 8.4" Axle housings. They also fit Toyota Chain and Gear Driven T-cases and Transmissions. they even fit Samuri T-cases. But they will NOT fit Samuri Trannys.

Drawing files
T-case mount like FROR by BRAD D


Driveline - How to make a Square Shaft

Driveline - Heavy duty DIY Material

A toyota driveshaft end has a machined OD of 2.435".
2.5'' Sch. 40 pipe. is 2.875" OD x .203" thick which is almost 1/4'' wall and is a good fit for the toy yokes. You just have to use an endgrinder or the like to knock the seam down in the pipe. Using the pipe to retube is good for rear shafts or if you have links and don't need all the slip of a square shaft. (also slides on rocks better than square) This is a cheaper alternative to the strange sized 2 7/8" x 7/32" wall DOM tubing which can also be used for a DIY driveline.

Cheap Driveline/ Driveshaft Slip Material

How to make a Jig For The Above Set Up by crazrunner

Driveshaft Tech

Driveshaft Shortening 101

Driveshaft 401 by BillaVista

Driveshaft Yokes / Flange patterns

And this is the easiest way to make a different bolt-pattern driveshaft fit your current flanges: Rotate the driveshaft 45 degrees and drill new holes.

More flange pattern measurements

Flange Pattern dimensions for
My truck 1989 Extra cab V6 factory 2 peice drive shaft
tcase/ujoint > 60mmx x60mm x 10mm CSB/ Dual Cardon Joint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm > Rear dif/Ujoint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm

Flange Pattern dimensions for
My Brothers truck 1993 Extra cab 22RE factory 2 peice drive shaft
tcase/ujoint > 60mmx x60mm x 10mm CSB/ Dual Cardon Joint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm > Rear dif/Ujoint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm

Basically I was worried that the flange pattern on the stock REAR Cv would not work with a triple drilled flange at the tcase. Seems like they will match up since the triple drilled flange has a 60x60x10 pattern.

Dual Tranny Setup and Adapters

E-Brake - Cheap Cable Fix by OOP’s


ECU Compatibility


Electrical Questions

More than you want to know…….

killer place to get all kinds of electrical goodies: (by Old Scout)

EFI System – Trouble codes

The older Toyota fuel injection systems are analog systems based on Bosch L-jetronic.
Around the mid-80's the Toyota TCCS took over, it is a (8031/8051)
microcontroller based digital system using in-chip ROM.
That means there is no separate ROM chip which could easily be
read and replaced for tuning purposes...
Later versions use more powerful microcontrollers.
The TCCS systems use L-jetronic, MAP, hot-wire and vortex
type air flow meters depending on application.

OBDI Toyota EFI trouble codes:

OBDII Toyota EFI trouble codes:

Engine Upgrades and Tech-22re, 22rte, 22r
MSD Install
22R - /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/428313-msd-install-22rs.html
22RE - /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/436107-how-msd-6a-installation-22re.html

Cam info - 22R / 22RE / 22RTE

22RE TPS Cross Reference by Drew Persson

Fuel Injector cross reference

22RE alternator upgrades by Alabamatoy

ATTN: Tim@DOA, what are our most common mistakes when we wrench on our engines?


Official Toyota motor swap thread-

Engine Swap Bellhousing Info:

22R to 22RE swap FAQ

5VZ-FE / 5VZE / 3.4L V6 Toyota Swap

3RZ swap tech

Marlin Crawler 3RZ FAQ

3rz wiring information

VW/Toy Diesel swaps
diesel swap, bolts right in)
TDI diesel Froum
Propane fumigation for diesel engine writeup)

FAQ and general Info by gtr1990-

4.3L Swap FAQ version 2.0 by Lowtorious

3.0L-V6(3VZE) To 3.4L-V6(5VZFE) Engine Conversion

5m-ge, 7m-ge, 7m-gte, 2jz-gte-Information
Swap FAQ

Exhaust Studs

This is fairly basic, but it is info that is helping me out right now. Seems to be a common problem. It took me a long time to find the post.
It's about stripped exhaust studs and a Heli-coil kit that NAPA sells specifically for repairing Toyota heads.

exhaust head heli coil info
Description: NAPA Balkamp HeliCoil Metric thread repair kit
Size: M10x1.25
Part#: 7703020
Description: HeliCoil Thread Repair Metric Kit
Size: M10x1.25 - 12 Inserts
Part#: HEL-5543-10
See: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=exhaust+stud

Exo Cages
Lots of pictures of exo cages here!
Thru body design exo cages

Factory Service Manuals (FSM) - Online

Toyota & Ebay is a great spot to find these... otherwise look here:
or 4or a $10, one day subscription you can download all the FSM’s for your rig.
Links to free FSM's (Factory Service Manuals)

Fiberglass panel links


Firewall Tubbing:
ECU Relocation:

Flat Towing a Toyota <-- Must disconnect rear driveline!

Originally Posted by Marlin Crawler
On all auto chain driven and manual gear driven t/cases, if it is towed in two wheel drive, the output shaft will turn, but there will be no way for the oil at the bottom of the case to get to the top where the output shaft is. On the chain driven cases, the input shaft turns the planetary housing which drives the oil pump. Gear driven cases use the input gear and low range gears to throw oil on the inside of the housing that collects the oil via gutters and directs it to the rear of the case by gravity. Both style of cases, must have the input shaft spinning to lube the output shaft, speedo gears, and rear seal of the t/case. The rear driveshaft must be removed.
Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 07-18-2012 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Roxborough, CO
Posts: 904
Exclamation And More......

Filter Charger for 22RE - Cone Filter adapter for AFM from the wrecking yard

Firewall Tubing
Firewall Tubbing 79-83 Toyota's

Formula Toy Info & FAQ Hendrix Motorsports


Frame Dimensions:
Frame Dimensions: 79-83

Third Generation frames

85 Frames Thanks Budbuilt

Front Axle - IFS Hub Body & Vented Rotor Swap Options
Best Thread according to JWS-


Front axle – Knuckle Rebuild Kits


Timken Wheel front wheel bearing part numbers for 79-85 front axle:
Front wheel outer LM102949 & LM102910
Front wheel inner JLM104948 & JLM104910

Trunion/Kingpin/Knuckle bearing part numers, 79-85 front axle:
Toyota #90366-17001-77
KOYO 30303D
SKF part# 30303j2

Inner axle seal, 79-85 front axle: by KS Toy
Timken 710070
BCA 710070
FM 710070
Toyota 90311-35032
CR 12810

Knuckle stud parts

42323-60020 Washer, Cone
90170-12005 Nut, Hexagon
90126-12005 Stud, Hex Lobular

Exploded diagram of front axle from JTOutfitters website:

Ref: Spindle nut size is 54mm/2-1/8" socket

Front Axle Perches – 3/8” Spacer
Toyota front axles need a 3/8 inch spacer on driver side to make the truck sit level since the driver side perch is 3/8” lower than the passenger side perch since its mounted half way up the diff. If you do a spring swap using non-Toyota Specific Springs, this spacer should be added. The most common way to do this is to weld a piece of flat bar to the driver side perch.

Front Axel- Ultimate Toyota Front Upgrades-

Fuel Cell/ Gas Tank Info

Ford Tank

Fuel Filter Fitting
Aeroquip P/N: FCM 1070 is a bajo fitting hose end that screws directly in to a 22re fuel filter for -6 (3/8") hose or 'Summit' AER-FBM1070 or 'Summit' #EAR-807691ERL.

Full Float Rear- Toyota Dually Axel tech-
Full Floater Conversion-

Gearing Calculator-
For anybody that wants to see how many RPM's their turning with a given transmission/transfer case/axle ratio/tires, here's a great calculator. I made my own a few years ago, but this one is much nicer.
Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 07-15-2012 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Roxborough, CO
Posts: 904
Exclamation And The Saga Continues

Head Gasket Replacement by 85runnerAZ

High Lift mount ideas and safety


HiLift Safety Tip: Use a limit strap or chain by TheBandit

Here is a tip anyone with a hi-lift jack should be aware of. Always carry a strap or chain with you. Why? You can use it to limit the droop of the suspension when changing tires/axles/etc.

How many times have you seen a vehicle lifted near the maximum height of the jack just to get the tire off the ground? This is incredibly dangerous! It puts the vehicle in an unstable position and people around/under the vehicle at uneccessary risk.

To avoid hurting someone, attach a chain or strap between the axle and frame to limit droop. You can do this while the vehicle is still on all four tires. As you jack from the body or frame, the axle will droop until the limit chain/strap tightens.

Be aware of brake lines and other vulnerable components when routing your limit strap/chain. Also, make sure whatever chain/strap you carry on the trail is adjustable in case the suspension is articulated before jacking.

Horn Tech

Horsepower – More Power

Thanks to DRM for saving this, and Tim for giving the advice.

Originally posted by DRM
"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."

A follow-up from later that day:

"... you pull the EFI fuse to start the ECU's regathering of fuel mixture readings, because you are altering them via the AFM. The #65's are a hotter plug, and will in this case create a more efficient burn. You WILL NOT detonate when the timing is set 16* NOT SHORT CIRCUTED, because the end reading when short circuted will be 8* advanced. The afm adjustment enrichens the motor aproximately 3cc. This is necessary due to the timing advance, which requires a proper mixture."

I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.

Hydraulic Steering Bleeding Instructions
/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/802332-another-way-bleed-your-hydro-assist.html ---using a hand held vacuum pump

Hydraulic Steering Tech - Assist


Hydraulic Steering Tech - Full Hydro—OOPS set up


Idle Drop

"It's an 85 xcab efi. When I hit the brakes my idle drops off 500 rpms or so then recovers, over and over again. It dosen't happen when It's warming up, just when hot."

"I would bet you that your idle is set to high. Sometimes the screw works loose with vibration. If your idle is at like 1100, it's too high. With the engine warm, try lowering the idle at the intake manifold to about 750 or so. That will probably solve your problem. Mine was doing the same thing last week after the new header. Adjusted the idle and it's fine. "

"The EFI computer receives a signal from the brake circuit that tells it that the brakes are being applied. This causes the computer to shut off the injectors if the RPM's are over a certain level and the engine is in "closed loop" as engine power should not be needed if the brakes are being applied.I believe the set point for the injector cut out is 850 to 900 RPM. This is what causes the surging - your idle RPM is too high, when the brakes are applied the injectors are cut out until the RPM's drop below this level. The engine then run's again. This only happens when the engine goes into "closed loop" so this will not happen when the engine is at a higher idle speed warming up. I am willing to bet your idle speed is around 1000 RPM when this happens. To fix this problem, simply adjust your warm idle speed to 750 RPM as per the factory. "

Ignitor and Coil Bypass for Cheap

How to wire up LED lights for taillights?

Link suspension info
The ultimate listing of the most important link suspension posts.......


1/4 eliptical




Coil spring specs

THE GOD OF SUSPENSION...[for those of you who don't know]


New Version of my 4-link Analyzer & Request for Help

Rear link thread

Lockers - Whats Better?

Locking Hub Upgrades

Bigger Studs

Stronger Studs http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/

6 pin install on the hubs http://www.hendrixmotorsports.com/

4340 Chromoly Toyota 30 Spline Drive Flange by Longfield

Can you convert a 27 spline IFS locking hub to a 30 spline SA locking hub?

Longfield's Axle/Hub/Shaft Breaking Machine Results

Longfield - 27 vs. 30 Spline Chromo

Martack - See 'Birf Stuff' above for more info on this....

The easiest way to find the correct location for a Martack is to put tape on the spines of the axle shaft and insert the axle into the housing while watching the seal location. And keep moving the tape until you found the correct position.

Also note that after tacking the splines you wil have to carefully grind them doen flush so the axle will slip into the spider gears/locker all the way to the tack. Another way is to grease the splines but for me that has never worked as good as using tape. You want to place the tack weld so the axle can not slide into the diff to causing the seal to leak diff fluid into your knuckle. This is also used with aftermarket Birfs so you can remove the outer most clip to add in removal of the axle from the birf n the case of trail breakage.

Another think tha tis important to note is that you SHOULD measure this distance on you axle and not following any one elses dimensions becasue there are too many variables to only use on tack weld location for all set-ups.

And here is the Camo Method.

This verson allows the axle and Birf assmbly to float a bit on the brass bushing inthe spine, on the splines in the star of the birf and the splines in the diff to tolerances and expansion or contraction due to the change in temperature.

More Reference Links:

Motor Mount Tech

Heres some great info on how to "bolt" your motor mounts to keep them from getting trashed by the torque produced from a crawler box.
ref: /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/154338-lame-attempt-some-motor-mount-tech.html

The other common way to save the motor mounts is to chain them down.

A common way is shown below:

As a side note aftermarket poly bushing motor mounts create a LOT of vibration and is seems that about 50% of these people that buy them for a Daily Driver end up removing them and reinstalling stock ones. The motor mounts that I refer too are ones sold by Rockstomper or LC Engineering which look symiliar to this homemade one [Thanks Chrisf]. Now if they are going on a trail only rig, I hear they work awesome.

Aftermarket motor mounts parts numbers by obex26
Well in the process of getting aftermarket motor mounts since the cost is between 25-50 dollars versus 155-180 from the stealership I learned the hard way about part numbers and applications so I thought I would share it with everyone else. Most checker, kragen, pep boys, autozone or whatever is near you will carry an aftermarket brand called anchor. The part number for the 4 cylinder application is 8612 and the 6 cylinder application is 8614. The truck and 4runner for years 84-86 may use the part number for the 6 cylinder application even though it has a 4 cylinder engine in it. I spent two days looking for motor mounts (limited local stock on a weekend) It appears that before the 6 cylinder motor was introduced to the truck line they were already using the motor mounts. It also is a hit and miss with the truck years that the turbo and V6 were available. It seems that the 2WD trucks actually use the part number 8612 and 4WD whether its a 4 cylinder Turbo or V6 use the part number 8614.

Also to add to the above info, First gen and second gen motor mounts are different because the hole spacing on the frame is different along with the shape of the six sided base plate..

Other After Market Options:

Northwest Offroad

Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 07-15-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Roxborough, CO
Posts: 904
Oil Filter by deepstealth

A good oil filter is toyota 90915-YZZD3 (old part number: 90915-20004) it is slightly larger, they use it on tundras, lexus' and and cost about 6 bucks each.

More info provide by deepstealth:
Yeah, theyre gonna discontinue the -20004 and i hear rebadge it and sell for ten bucks as the "TRD" uber special filter. not worth it, for that money you can get an sdf-15 from amsoil, which is even better but expensive overkill for most rigs. the yzzd3 is NOT a high quality filter--take one apart & compare to the -20004, the difference is pretty obvious--it's pretty much just a basic cheap-o filter, but twice as much as a fram. the -20004s can still be purchased (in cases), and you'll usually get a bulk discount.

Oil Pan swap for 3.0V6 to T100 oilpan swap for SAS and histeer

Oil Pressure Guage
The OEM cluster gauge is not very accurate and it the FSM shows the following picture:

Factory numbers for both the 4 & 6 cylinder engines
Oil Pressure @ Idle - 4.3 psi Minimum
@ 3000 rpm - 36 - 71 psi

On Board Air (OBA)

See "York" below for tons of info.

PARTS- Supplier of used and new, salvage yards, etc... also who to avoid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

STAY AWAY FROM TAP, unless u enjoy getting bent over!!!!!!!!

Part Numbers - Ultimate List of Toyota Part Numbers
by 4x4wire.com

Pictures - TONS
Nice clean rigs that get wheeled hard

Pics of your favorite Toyotas

Pics of your Favorite Buggy's and Truggy's

Toyota Flex pictures

Pictures of favorite 4runners

Pictures of First Gen's

Full width picture thread

Dovetailed pics

*Official* Toyota Flatbed Thread

Before and After Pic Thread

Pitman Arms - Dimension of other arms

Pitman Arm Removal / Swap - How to

Plenum Conversion and How to Remove Unwanted Vacuum Lines - Lots of 22RE Photos

Profield Information........

Pay attention to the posts by Chris Gieger......

Propane Conversion, 22R
/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/379633-22r-pane-conversion.html by KYOTA
/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/490223-22r-propane-conversion.html by brimy311

Power Inverter Thread- for all you 110v needs

Power Steering Box - Info

How to rebuild it

Steering Box rebuild kit PN 04455-35080

How to Tap it for Hydro Assist

Power Steering Box Location, Moving it Forward
by Bones
Since this has been on numerous threads, I may as well post it here. Here's an IFS steering box moved as far forward as I could (2.5"~) and hacked the radiator support to boot. Ref: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=steering+box
More pictures of mounting the power steering IFS boxes here:

Power steering box identification


Power Steering Box AN-Fittings

High Pressure Port - 16 x 1.5 MM Inverted Flare to #6 JIC Male adapter, Toyota - 'PSC Motorsports' #PSC-SF06 or 'Summit Racing' #EAR-9919DFJERL
Low Pressure Port - 17 x 1.5 MM Inverted Flare to #6 JIC Male adapter, Toyota - 'PSC Motorsports' #PSC-SF07

Power Steering Flush

Power Steering Hose Part Numbers- Stock Application-
Stock power steering high pressure hose PN's:

'85 4WD NAPA: NPS73354 $27.99
VATO Zone: 71260 $25.99
'83 4WD VATO Zone: 71171 $25.99
Schucks: 71171 $37.93

The difference's between the two are the '83 has a 45 degree bend and long stem into the box and a 90 degree bend on the pump end and the '85 has a short 90 on the box side and two oposing 90's on the pump side

Power Steering Pump Mod - Removing the restrictor plate


Power Steering Pump - High Flow TC style mounting

Power Steering Reservior

www.Speedwaymotors.com has a power steering resivoir that is a perfect fit for this set up. $24.95
It is P/N 91032876-STD-10. It has a -6 inlet and a -10 outlet.
this fits the power steering pump inlet well.
Tripling the size of the Toyota power steering reservoir

Rust Repair Panels / Replacement Sheetmetal


SAS Pics and Dimensions thread

Low Lift SAS Thread--

Seat Tech- Replacements and Junkyard swaps


Shock Info
Shock Mounts - Ford
Ford Part #E5TZ-18183-A

Shower, On-board Shower Tech

Try out this Lambda calculator using your emissions test info. This will help you determine if you are running rich, lean, or stoichemetric.
Some other good smog passing threads

Spring Hangers - Front - SAS


44044s are Rancho Jeep Wagoneer Lift Springs.
Length: 47" (Length is eye to eye)
Center Pin split (front/rear) 22.5"/24.5"
Bushing: 2 3/4" & 3"
Lift: 5.25 - 5.5" (Lift is approximate and uses 1.5" longer than stock shackles giving 3/4" of lift)
Cost: $250 (Cost is for both sides incl. shipping/give or take)
44044's do not (by themselves) move your axle forward. They are the same length on the front half as stock toys (22.5"). While they do move the axle forward because of the lift they provide (arch in spring), when they compress to the point that they are flat, it's the same. Estimated 1/2" of actual axle relocation forward.


Part Number, Overall Spring Length, Center Pin to Front*
TOYFRONT5, 47 5/8", 22 1/2"
TOYFRONT4, 46.1/2", 22 1/8"
TOYFRONT5STK, 46 3/4", 23 1/8"
TOYFRONT4STK, 45 5/8", 22 1/2"
TOYFRONT3, 46", 21 1/2"


CHEVY SPRINGS FAQ Probably most common rear lift springs!
Everything you ever wanted to know about Chevy Springs!
If you actually have a question that is not answered there, that would be a great place to ask it so the answer is there for everyone else.


REARS SPRINGS UP FRONT Probably most common front lift springs!
Rears Up Front (RUF) FAQ: /forum/toyota-truck-4runner/265669-rear-up-front-faq.html
Stock toy rears move the axle forward 2" because they are only 20.5" on the front half where as a stock toyota front spring is 22.5". But you have to add a few leaves to the pack to make them stiff enough to hold up the front of the truck.


These are stock Jeep Wagoneer Springs
Length: 47" (Length is eye to eye)
Bushing: 3"
Lift: 3.5 - 3.75"
Cost: $200 New, $60-$100 Used
From JcWhitney.com:
1976 - 1992 Jeep Wagoneer, Front Leaf Spring
7 Heavy-duty Leaves #07ZX2048P $99.95 Ea
5 Leaves #07ZX2047B $84.95 Ea
The 7 leaf is supposed to be the ones you are looking for.
Pinion angle can be an issue if you just bolt waggs to the stock location. If you have dropped hanger or dual cases the problem is lessened.


Misc. Spring Information


F-150 Spring Swap-


Best 'low lift' thread on here with pictures and good information


Frenched spring hangers

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 07-15-2012 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member # 108480
Location: Roxborough, CO
Posts: 904
SR5 Gauge Cluster swap info

Steering Arms - Adding Fifth Knuckle Stud or D44 Studs


Steering Column - Tilt/Wheel and Intermitent Wiper swap

Storage - additional storage in 4Runner under cargo area


Thermostat Problem

Question: “Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”

Answer: (From Roger Brown’s Web Site - http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4...tml#Thermostat)

“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The t-stat that I have mentioned has two valves in it, one at the regular temp. and one smaller on at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”

You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer.
Part Number: #90916-03070

Tie Rod Ends, FJ-80
These tie rod ends are the standard ones Aftermarket Companys use for the Toyota High Steer since they have the same taper as the mini trucks but they have a much larger 23mm x 1.50 threads. These are stock on 1991 thru 1997 FJ-80 Toyota LandCruisers relay rod ends.
RH Thread - Napa #269-2854 or AutoZone #ES2854x
LH Thread - Napa #269-2855 or AutoZone #ES2855x

Tie Rod Ends, Mini Trucks
Tie Rod End Replacment Poly Boots
Energy Suspension Systems make Replacement Tie Rod End Boots.


Autozone Part Number 9.13101G $10.99 for (2) pack
Summit Part Number ENS-9-13107G $24 for (12) pack

Left Tie Rod End Differences by FreakAccident
79-81 - Short, small threaded shaft, and the hole for the steering stabilizer is on the top part of the shaft. Approx. 5.5"s from where the threads start on the shaft to the center of the joint.
82-83 - Long, small threaded shaft, and the hole for the steering stabilizer is on the bottom part of the shaft Approx. 6.5"s from where the threads start on the shaft to the center of the joint.
84-85 - Long, large threaded shaft, and the hole for the steering stabilizer is on the bottom part of the shaft. Approx. 6.5"s from where the threads start on the shaft to the center of the joint.

Tire Size/ What Will fit

Tow Hook Bolt Size
They are 12mm x 1.25 pitch x 50 mm long with a 19 mm hex head.

Toyota Vehicle History: compiled by Mr. Stubbs

Toyota Vendors - Popular ones
Jeff Mosk Gauge Pods

Traction Bars



Pickup and 4Runner Transmissions with 1st gear ratios.
L43 4 speed 79 - 80 3.67
L45 4 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L50 5 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L52 5 speed 83 3.93
G52 & G54 5 speed 84 - 88 (Carb) 3.93
W56 5 speed 85 - 95 (EFI) 3.95 Manual Hub Equipped Vehicles 89 and up Have W56, 89 and up ADD vehicles have G58.
R151F 5 speed 86 - 87 (turbo only) 4.31
G58 5 speed 89 - 95 3.93 ADD Equipped Vehicles
R150F (6 cyl) 5 speed 88+ 3.83

G52/54 84-88' are twin stick, use a 8 bolt center section, 6 bolt gear t/case pattern, 21 spline output.
G58 89-95' twin stick, 8 bolt center, 9 bolt chain t/case, 26 spline
W56 85-88' (single stick), 89-95' (twin stick), 10 bolt center, 6 bolt t/case, 21 spline
R151F 86 - 87 (turbo only) will have two housings of four bolts each just like a G52, the difference would be the large rubber plug on the bottom of the bellhousing.

Info provided by Marlin Cralwer
All 84 to 95 22R trans are 25.5" long including the bellhousing. The only shorter trans is the 79-83 year trans which are 20.75" long with bellhousing. These early short trans have had a poor service record due in part to their small bearings and lighter gears. The 82-83 L52 5 speed which had a 80 x 20 mm front input bearing has had the best service record. A number of years ago, I invented a way to install a oversize 80 x 23 mm input bearing with an inproved gear set which features a greater helix angle for added strenght. I call it my L52HD and is the strongest 20.75" long trans.

Side note:
ADD = Automatic Differential Disconnect
For more information see my article here:

Tranny 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
R151f 4.310 2.740 1.930 1.000 0.830 4.230
W56 3.954 2.141 1.384 1.000 0.850 4.091
G52 3.929 2.333 1.452 1.000 .851 ????
FYI: Marlin offers a R151f gear swap that gives 5.15 first

List of Toyota transmissions which covers all toy trans 2wd, fwd, automatic, car, truck

A340 Transmission issues and FAQs

Converting a W55 4x2 transmission into a W56 4x4


Years Engine Model Shift Style Spline Type

1979-1980 20R Carb Top Shift 21-spline
1981-1983 22R Carb Top Shift 21-spline
1984-1988 22R Carb Forward Shift 21-spline
1985-1988 22RE EFI Top Shift 21-spline
1986-1987 22RTE EFI/Turbo Forward Shift 23-spline
1989-1995 22RE EFI Forward Shift 21-spline
89-95 22RE(G58) forward shift chain drive transfercase 26-spline will not accept adapters or gear sets. These are 22RE/4X4 Models with 5 spd and ADD.


Toyota Crawl box to Dana 300 Info:

COMPARISION INFO Marlin 4.7's to AA's 5.0's


INSTALLATION OF 4.7 GEARS from Marlin Crawler


FRONT WHEEL DRIVE with Toyota T-case


TWIN STICK with single forward shift t-case (on the cheap)



There are several different styles of T-Case mounts found throughout the years...

Stock Replacement T-case Mount Examples:


Trail-Gears 4.7 Gear install video-

Dual Case Install Video-

What is the difference between a top shift and forward shift transfer case. I took a couple of photos showing both top and forward shifting tcases along with matching transmissions. These two photos should make it easier to understand the difference. In both photos the transmission and transfer case have been seprated to show where one ends and the other starts. It also helps show the shift forks on the forward shift setup.

The first photo shows a top shifting transfer case and transmission. Notice the tcase shifter comes out of the top of the tcase. The transmission has just one shifter. Notice there are no forks on the front of the tcase.

The second photo is a forward shift transfer case. Notice the blockoff plate on top of the case. This unit is shifted through two rails that connect to the transmission. A forward shift transmission like this one has two shifters, one for the tranny and one for the tcase.

More Tranny & Transfercase Info

Year Model Application Model Speeds Splines 1st Gear Engine Transfer Case
1979-1980 Carb L43 4sp 21 spline 3.67 4cyl 20R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L45 4sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L50 & L52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1984-1986 Carb G52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1988 Carb G54 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1987 EFITurbo R151F 5sp 23 spline 4.31 4cyl 22RTE Gear driven Forward Shift
1985-1988 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1988-1991 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.0L Chain driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI/ADD G58 5sp 26 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Chain driven Forward Shift
1996-2002 EFI W59 5sp 23 spline 3.95 4cyl 2.7L Chain driven Top Shift
1996-2002 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.4L Chain driven Forward Shift

The transfercase/reduction box shift rods on the forward shifting transfercase are different lengths so swapping trannys can cause a problem. Ref:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=222758
The G52/G54 trans requires the longer forward type t/case shifting rods. These are only found on 84-88' G carb t/cases, and 86-87' R151F efi turbo t/cases. The 89-95' twin stick W56 with a forward shifting t/case that uses rods that are about 1/2 inch shorter. These shift rods can be easily swapped in the reduction boxes so it just a matter of getting the correct remote shift rod for the tranny. www.MarlinCrawler.com usually has a bunch of both kinds in stock and they can also convert a forward shifting reduction box into a top shifting case for a small cost.

Flange Patterns:
More flange pattern measurements

Flange Pattern dimensions for
My truck 1989 Extra cab V6 factory 2 peice drive shaft
tcase/ujoint > 60mmx x60mm x 10mm CSB/ Dual Cardon Joint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm > Rear dif/Ujoint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm

Flange Pattern dimensions for
My Brothers truck 1993 Extra cab 22RE factory 2 peice drive shaft
tcase/ujoint > 60mmx x60mm x 10mm CSB/ Dual Cardon Joint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm > Rear dif/Ujoint 60mm x 60mm x 10mm

Basically I was worried that the flange pattern on the stock REAR Cv would not work with a triple drilled flange at the tcase. Seems like they will match up since the triple drilled flange has a 60x60x10 pattern.

Troubleshooting at Home

Tube Notching Program

Tube Bending 101


Weber Info by Coop 50

I live at sea level (hence the name Shoreline) so I can't do much for you, but I believe the people in some of those posts (in the searches) live at high elevation. Perhaps if you contact them by email, they can help you. The other option is to get some small jets and take it from there with a drill set. This is the economical way to do it. I bought a jet kit which also had a double squirt pump jet for more fuel on that initial step on the accelerator.

What I have read concerning Weber jet adjustment (this is in the search posts), note the original idle jet size, in your case you decrease the size until the mixture screw is optimum at 2 - 3 turns from bottoming out. Whatever size the idle jet turns out to be, you extrapolate what the others should be according to that, because you are setting the jets according to the volume of your engine.

I have a 32/36, my primary is set pretty good but my secondary is a little rich. I can tell because I have an analog Westach mixture meter hooked up to a heated O2 sensor. If I remember right 13.5 to 1 is optimum for power, 14.7 to one is optimum for clean burning. Another thing I found out is my 86 22R engine naturally runs lean above 3000 rpm (until the secondary kicks in), has something to do with the swirl or flow of the combustion chamber.

Search Posts:

Weight: Ultimate List



*From the factory manuals:
1979-83 short bed 101.77 *
1979-83 long bed 110.24 *
1984-89 4Runner 102.95 *
1984-88 xtra cab 112.20 *
1984-88 single cab short bed 102.95 *
1984-88 single cab long bed 112.20 *
1984-88 double cab real short bed 112.20 *
1990-91 4Runner, 2 door 103.3
1990-95 4Runner, 4 door 103.3
1989-95 short bed 103.3
1989-95 long bed 122.5
1989-95 xtra cab 122.5
1995.5-04 Tacoma 105.3 and 121.9
1996-92 4Runner (taco based) 105.3

Wheel Bearing Adjustment By SR5Dave

A good way (at least IMO) to tighten wheel bearings; which allows at least moderately proper preload even with large tires or different offset rims.

Torque down real tight. Spin wheel once to get everything set. Now back it off. Tighten a little, grab at 12 and 6 and wiggle back and forth. Does it wiggle? Tighten more. Wiggle again. Does it wiggle? Tighten more. Do this until there is basically NO play (Except some from the tires moving back and forth), should be real firm. Now spin the wheel, does it spin at least 1.5 revolutions easily? Good to go.

Doesn't? Go buy new bearings ya cheap bastard, they're wasted If you can't buy new ones; just find the best point on the curve between little wiggle and enough spin. Make sure one doesn't spin way easier than the other or the freeway will be real interesting.

This is a good way to do it because you adjust them tighter with bigger tires naturally. Its not perfect, but since Toyota didn't suply us with preload if you put 38" tires and 2"BS rims on.. its 'good enough' IMO. This method gets preload firmer with bigger tires because of a 20" leverage arm on 40" tires instead of 15" lever arm w/ 30"s, further out, easier it is to move the tire, so you tighten it more for less play. Works out pretty good.

{Comment by 4RnrRick - I feel it should be done using the method in the FSM or Haynes with a pull scale and the adjusted from there for more preload for bigger tires. I'm not sure how much more other than it probably requires more preload to increase bearing life. IMO 'By Feel" is not the best method since everyone does not have the same hands....}

Wheel / Rim Tech and Info

Ultimate Beadlock listing.....

2" Backspace wheels thread
Summit Part Number for US Wheel Reversed Wheel USW-88-5860R-SPEC
(specify your backspacing) Available as of 6/9/06

DIY Beadlocks screws by Inchworm

Easy way to break the inner bead on Beadlocks

Moving the valve stem, & adding a quick air down valve to your rims

Wheel Spacers / Adapters
See: http://www.mcmotorsports.com If it physically possible they probably make it.
Also refer to Toyota Vendor Section

Window Tech
4runner Rear widow issues- wont roll up or down, etc..--

Winch: General Tech, Motor, Reduction Discussion

Winch: In-Cab Remote Info


Winch Rope (Poly / Synthetic )

How to add a thumble to the end of the rope <-- starts at post #13

How to splice two pieces together

Vaccuum Line Diagram
22R, 22RE, 22RTE diagrams

Vacuum Lines - How to clean up engine bay - Lots of 22RE Photos


XtraRunner = Xtra cab + 4Runner

York and/or OBA (On Board Air) Systems

Installing a York Compressor using 22R AC brackets

Installing a Mini York Compressor on a Supercharged Taco

Installing a York Compressor on a T100

Converting the Factory AC Compressor to a OBA system

York air on a 4.3L powered first gen

Factory AC and a Rotary York

Check out http://www.onboardair.com/ for all the York accesories and tech info.

York Oil Blowby Quick Fix

Or check out this post to see what type of systems people are really using.

Vehicle Donor List for York / Sanden Compressors! OBA

Identifying York Strokes without Part Number-
here's where I found it
Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 12-12-2013 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Holding For Future Use- Mods please do not delete
Formula 4 build in progress:D

Last edited by ColoradoToy91; 04-02-2009 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Formula 4 build in progress:D
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Old 04-02-2009, 03:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bump, Please look through this and PM me with needed additions in your eyes

Thank You
Formula 4 build in progress:D
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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here are some good websites that got me thinking of doin a nice diesel swap:
http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/ (diesel swap, bolts right in)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=82466 (veggie diesel guide)
http://www.mrsharkey.com/lpg.htm (propane fumigation for diesel engine writeup)

Maybe someone else will find this as interesting as I did.
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Old 04-25-2009, 04:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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this version is wayyy better, easier to read and to find stuff....

Spotter for SKOPs "Green Bastard"

Driver of SKOPs "Gord". See what happens....
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks to the FAQ Toyota Bible I just rolled my back window down for the first time in 2 years... Thanks Pirate4x4.
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The new FAQ is great! Any chance we could add in my little contribution?

Easy Mods for 33's on a stocker:

When I am not driving one of my rigs I'm pickin your busted a$$ up in my Ambulance!

My 85 Toyota truck build "37's NO LIFT" [url]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=761084&highlight=[/url]
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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IFS hub gear in a SA hub body.
yes it fits, but you can't fit the snap-ring on the end of the stub.
Attached Images
Size does matter.
Leave the Zukes to those who really understand.
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Old 07-17-2009, 12:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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At one point in the Toy FAQ it states:

Year Model Application Model Speeds Splines 1st Gear Engine Transfer Case
1979-1980 Carb L43 4sp 21 spline 3.67 4cyl 20R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L45 4sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L50 & L52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1984-1986 Carb G52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1988 Carb G54 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1987 EFITurbo R151F 5sp 23 spline 4.31 4cyl 22RTE Gear driven Forward Shift
1985-1988 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1988-1991 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.0L Chain driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI/ADD G58 5sp 26 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Chain driven Forward Shift
1996-2002 EFI W59 5sp 23 spline 3.95 4cyl 2.7L Chain driven Top Shift
1996-2002 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.4L Chain driven Forward Shift
Specifically, I was looking for R150F info to see if I could use a forward shifting reduction box (1990 truck).

This line tells me my R150F is mated to a forward shifting chain driven case,
1988-1991 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.0L Chain driven Forward Shift but all my other reading says the R150F all have top driven cases, like:

I did find the fix though, to just cut my forward shift rod and weld the notch onto the shift fork to make it top shift.

Am I wrong or is the quoted information erroneous? Is the forward shift rod modification in the FAQ? I'm not seeing it, but I think it would be an asset. It is just a jpg showing where to cut and what to weld (have it on my other computer).
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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This OBA link is dead

Factory AC and a Rotary York
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Billy_Goat View Post
This OBA link is dead

Factory AC and a Rotary York
Thanks for the heads up.

I started a new thread to re-collect the data, and changed the dead link to it.
New thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=807556

Give it some time to work.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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new style e-locker tips

Ive been installing a 06 tacoma elocker into my front housing found some diffrences between the older style locker and new

old- 04 and older elocker
new- 05 and newer tacoma and fj cruiser elocker

aftermarket v6 gears will fit the housing. Its the same between the new and old, but the flanges are different you need a older style flange and pinion seal to make it work. The new style uses larger splines on the flange and pinion also the seal is larger.

convert new to old you need:
v6 flange
axle seal pre 04 elocker
v6 gearset
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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This links toast too.

ExcelCAD - Awesome Link design Program
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Here is some Radiator Tech. If you are looking for an aftermarket radiator pretty cheap I got a summit 22x19x2.25 Cross Flow Dual Row part#SUM-380324. Cost was about 170 shipped to my door. The dimesions they list would make it different that a toyota but if you put it on top of a toyota radiator, it is exactly the same. All you would have to do it weld on some tabs on the side of it and you could bolt it right in. The only thing I could see getting in the way is if your powersteering box bolts are to far forward where the radiator sits.

Link to my 85 yota build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ight=snowdemon

Last edited by Blue MT. SnowRunner; 09-01-2009 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Also there used to be a link that showed tons of engine, tranny and bellhousing swap and and interchange info in here. It was dead at one time and I posted about it then someone posted a good link up now I dont see it in the FAQ
Link to my 85 yota build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ight=snowdemon
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Old 11-21-2009, 10:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Some COG formulas. Figure it would be a nice addition, so I don't have to retype it.

Center of gravity height (vehicle must be raised in the rear a min of 10")

(the wheel base squared) - (height raised squared) = "A"
square root of "A" = "B"
height vehicle raised in rear / "B" = "C"
weight of front wheels (rear raised) - weight of front wheels (rear level) = "D"
overall wheelbase length x "D" = "E"
total vehicle weight (GVW) x "C" = "F"
"E" / "F" = center of gravity height

wheelbase center of gravity:

front axle weight divided by total weight = "A"
1 - "A" = "B"
"B" x overall wheelbase = wheelbase center of gravity from the front axle

Track width center of gravity

passenger side weight (both tires) divided by total weight = "A"
1 - "A" = "B"
"B" x overall width (outer sidewall to outer sidewall) = track width center of gravity from the passenger side

Driver side rollover angle
wheel track width - wheel track COG = "A"
"A" / height COG = "B"
ATAN ("B") = degrees rollover driver side

Passenger side rollover angle
wheel track COG / height COG = "A"
ATAN ("A") = degrees rollover passenger side

Rearward rollover angle
wheelbase length - wheelbase COG = "A"
"A" / heighr COG = "B"
ATAN ("B") = degrees rearward rollover angle

Forward rollover angle
wheelbase COG / height COG = "A"
ATAN ("A") = degrees forward rollover angle
Full Throttle
Northwest Ohio

Last edited by Full Throttle ORC; 11-21-2009 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Tie Rod End Replacment Poly Boots

Energy Suspension Systems make Replacement Tie Rod End Boots.


Autozone Part Number 9.13101G $10.99 for (2) pack
Summit Part Number ENS-9-13107G $24 for (12) pack

Last edited by toy_taco; 11-28-2009 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:24 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Square Tube Front Bumpers

This goes to the exo cage thread not bumpers.
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:51 PM   #25 (permalink)
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CAD file and hole spacing for 22RE exhaust flange.
CAD file for 22RE EGR blockoff plates

All reverse engineering/CAD/test fitting done by me.

CAD files in .dwg format

waterjet cut and installed on engine:

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