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Old 10-17-2009, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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GM full size axle swap ?

Ok, I've been doing some searching and surfing and so far haven't really been able to find what I'm looking for. I am thinking of going with full size axles when I do my SAS. So here's my question: Can I buy all of my steering component for the gm axle swap or will I have to fab everything from scratch? I would like to stay with my toy box but I do have the gm box if it would be easier to swap that in instead of fabbing all of the linkage. I have a '90 pickup xtra cab with the 3Liter. I will be using the 63's and the rears up front and the axles will be gm 1/2 tons. I will also be doing all the work myself and am looking to spend the least amount of money. All help is much appreciated and to those who have done this swap pics would be excellent also.
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sure you can buy it, but why? and the toy box will work but will not give you the full range of steering that the new axles are capable of as they will out steer a toy axle, oh and search this has been covered a bizzilion times.
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have searched, My exact search was, "toyata gm full size axle swap" and "gm full size axle swap toyota" and I didn't find any answers. I did find a few pics but nothing close enough to get a good idea with the exception of a few pics of the pass. side axle.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't even waste your time with half tons. At least find some 3/4 tons. I have a 2wd chevy steering box on mine, and a cut-to-fit steering kit from ballistic fab.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well I am only going to run the 1/2 tons because the are free, will upgrade to 3/4 eventually. I am only running 33's so the 1/2's should hold up. The main part of the steering I am in question of is from the box to the axle. I will also be using the factory chevy drag link and will not be doing hi-steer right now because money is tight. Thanks for the input though.
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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checkout www.skymaufacturing.com there alot of info on the swap
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just my opinion, but if you arent willing to spend the money on the correct necessary parts to do it right the first time, and you arent willing to the correct parts, then you should leave the IFS and run 33's by trimming the sheetmetal away. 1/2 tons suck ballls, there is a reason why they are free. Search and delete this thread. Search something more basic and not as detailed to get more results. This has be done millions of times/ Literally/
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Old 10-17-2009, 03:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sure you can buy it, but why? and the toy box will work but will not give you the full range of steering that the new axles are capable of as they will out steer a toy axle, oh and search this has been covered a bizzilion times.
totally wrong. my toy box with hydro assist (2x8 ram) swings my front 60 lock to lock and the ram still has a bit left in it to push more.
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Old 10-17-2009, 04:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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totally wrong. my toy box with hydro assist (2x8 ram) swings my front 60 lock to lock and the ram still has a bit left in it to push more.

x2
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Old 10-17-2009, 05:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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totally wrong. my toy box with hydro assist (2x8 ram) swings my front 60 lock to lock and the ram still has a bit left in it to push more.
That's because a 60 doesn't steer as sharp as a 44.

But I still agree that he's wrong. The toy box works great for either if you set up the steering right.

The OP needs to do more research...

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Old 10-17-2009, 06:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That's because a 60 doesn't steer as sharp as a 44.

But I still agree that he's wrong. The toy box works great for either if you set up the steering right.

The OP needs to do more research...
since when? fine, ill take my stops totally out.
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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well I've done a little more searching by being more vague and have found a little more info. I have decided not to run the 12 bolt but am still considering running the 1/2 ton up front. I would be using spacers in the rear to help make up most of the width diff. My next question is: Is the 1/2 front any better or any worse compared to the stock solid axle toy fronts? Thanks for the input and I have done research.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the toyota front is alot stronger than the 1/2 ton junk.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the toyota front is alot stronger than the 1/2 ton junk.
tell that to my bent toyota housings in the scrap pile
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yota axles!!

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Old 10-18-2009, 04:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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tell that to my bent toyota housings in the scrap pile
The ring and pinion might be stronger due to the fact you can crank the fuck outta the carrier bearings to minimize deflection but the housing is still made out of sheetmetal.
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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your fagged....

i guess you can always slap it together and just learn from your mistakes, or just do a lot more sitting in your chair searching and educating yourself. what do you plan to do with this truck anyways?
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well, it's my DD and a weekend wheeler right now. I have done some searching but I don' have a lot of time to just sit and read through articles all day. All I am asking for is just some pros and cons between the two. By just saying 1/2 on shit is junk and all praise toy axles. I am not saying toy axles are shitty or that 1/2 tons are the strongest out there. Just looking for some open minded insight. But I expected critisism so I am not bitching about that, it comes with the game.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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IMHO the difference between a well built d44 front and a toy axle is a wash. They both have positive and negative aspects to them and both built will be about as strong.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:14 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input. I am kind of looking for specific as far as pros and cons, but thank you again for your opinion.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Search then....
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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tell that to my bent toyota housings in the scrap pile
That's why people gusset them.







To the OP, I would try to get my hands on a toy axle if I were you. But if the 1/2 ton axle is all you can get than run it. Here's a pic of my steering set up on my 60. ORD high steer arm on the pass. side, tie rod in the stock location. Tie rod and drag link are made out of 1-3/4"OD, 1/4" wall. Toy steering box, no hydro assist
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:39 AM   #23 (permalink)
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thanks for the pics and input. much appreciated
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:38 AM   #24 (permalink)
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That's why people gusset them.
They where gusseted.

A buddy of mine is swapping a 14 bolt and D44 into his first gen right now, front axle is in place just need to pick up u-bolts, it is a pretty straightforward swap. You need to swap to a chevy master cylinder, for which you need either a dual diaphragm toyota brake booster or you can get a chevy one, and an adapter from the master cylinder to your lines and your lines to the axles. And you need to take steering into account he is going full hydro as am I, but I am doing a V8 swap first. The nice thing about this is it is very easy to switch to one tons later when funds become available in the future.

The half tons will give you additional width, and as a result better flex, and stability, how much extra width depends on your choice of wheels. Oh, and no more leaky knuckle balls!

Both axles are good, the main problem with the toy axle is the housing is very weak, even when trussed in my experience, but I have never had a problem with the r+p or breaking shafts even with stock shafts (only running 33's at the time).
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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1/2 tons are gay
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