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Old 10-24-2009, 12:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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22r overheating problems

87 toyota 22r overheating. Put a thermastat on it, water pump, radiator and hoses, not leaking. Any idea what the prob is?
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Air in the System, Or you have a blown headgasket? you check your oil?
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Fan clutch might be going out. Does it heat up mainly when sitting at a stop, or does it do it when you're driving 70mph aswell?
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Old 10-24-2009, 02:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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oil looks fine. it only overheats while driving, itll set at idle all day. how do i get the air out?
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Old 10-24-2009, 02:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ok i tried the fan clutch test where you tie a string to the fan and to another point. from what i understand the string should hold the fan while cold and after the engine warms up the fan will break the string. Well it breaks as soon as i start the engine while cold. I was using shoelaces and twine. Could the fan be engaged at all times and causing the overheating?
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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does the heater blow cold or hot sounds like air pocket to me
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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heater still blows hot how would i get the air out of the system?
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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may want to check your pressure cap on the radiator also. to purge the air in the system start the truck, let it warm up, and add coolant while its running. sometimes, the radiator cap not keeping the system presurized properly will cause it to overheat. if i remember, those are only like $15
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Anytime I have to refill my coolant after a water pump install or changing radiators etc I park on a Incline, like 45degree angle and fill the radiator up and start the engine, the engine will suck that up I open the Heater core valve and continue filling until full then Replace the cap and your done. Or you can add a "Burp Valve".

Stolen from Mr Stubs Build thread

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Old 10-24-2009, 10:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Timing could be off (too advanced).
Vacuum leak could be causing a lean (therefore hot) mixture.
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Old 10-25-2009, 06:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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what brand of Tstat did you use? if its not genuine toyota thats a place to start.
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm running a wells T-stat, and have never had a problem. In fact, 6 years and counting. He may have to change his pressure cap on the radiator. If that's not holding pressure, it can also easily overheat
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds like a headgasket to me, if you checked all of your cooling conponents and all ok. I would do a leak down test (put pressure into each cyclinder at tdc) with the radiator cap of, if u have bubbles in cooling well its a headgasket, at engine idle you don't have enough cyclinder heat or pressure but ya as soon as u put a load on it or on the highway the exh gases push out the gasket super heating the coolant... Anyway I would do a cyclinder leak down test if it was me but that's just my .02
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Also make sure you battery groundeds are good(batt/fender/frame/block). Previous owner botched mine and the gauge read high. They had a single ground to the motor and a loose ground from the back of the motor to the firewall.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyprojects View Post
Previous owner botched mine and the gauge read high.
I could never sell mine. I'm the only one who could ever work on it. Not much left that's "normal". It would be a matter of needing to know what year, type, and model of truck I pulled from. If I were to sell it, one would think it's botched also. Mainly because the "correct" part won't work.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:44 AM   #16 (permalink)
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if theres air in hte system you may hear gurgling comeing from the heater core area do a compression test see if your headgasket is fucky
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Did you find the cause of your overheating?
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:26 AM   #18 (permalink)
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22r overheating problems UPDATE

Ok It was the headgasket that was making it get hot because the water eventually got in the oil. We tore it down and fixed it. NEW PROBLEM- when we started it up there is an extremely loud sreaming sound (sounds like from the carb)and after the motor warms up it wont idle. I did take it down the road and the screaming sound just about goes away while accelerating then comes back when you let off. Any ideas?

p.s the sreaming/whistling its doing is so loud, when u shut it off it takes your ears a minute to adjust like if you shot a gun a few times!!!
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:43 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You sure it's from the carb? Or is your belt just squealing? The only "squealing" or "whistling" I've ever heard from a carb, was not that loud. And that was usually just the gasket sucking air, or vacuum.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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thats what i thought too. It sounds like a high pitched belt squeal. checked the belts, even sarted it without the belts off for a sec just to see and it still screams. i say it sounds like its coming from the carb because as you first start it before the engine bay gets loud it sounds like its in the carb area. Also after you shut it off the whistling kinda winds down, again seeming to be around the carb. I didnt know what on the carb would make that kind of noise either. thought it may be sucking major vaccum somewhere but cant find it. The noise may have something to do with why it wont idle after it warms up but i have no idea what it is????
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Old 11-22-2009, 10:12 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Only thing I can think of off hand, is a massive vacuum leak. It's one of those things where I would almost have to be there to listen, and track it to its source.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Spray WD-40 around the intake manifold and the base of the carb. It will increase the idle when it gets sucked in from the vacuum leak. Then you can fix it!
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Old 11-24-2009, 04:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You check the timing chain cover when you did your head gasket to make sure the chain hasnt ground through causing the coolant leak there? also if you broke one of the timing chain guides it could make a screaming sound.
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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yes i inspected the cover and guides. apparently the PO had replaced the chain and it has the metal guide. i wont be able to get back to where the truck is til this weekend. Im gonna try to sray some wd40 around the base of the carb.
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