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Old 11-07-2009, 06:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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22re trouble shooting.....need a little help

i just did head gasket timing chain water pump on my 86 and everything went pretty smooth and i have been driving it for a few days with no problems.... i took her to the car wash two days ago and gave the motor a quick cleaning while i was there and then got on the freeway to head home...as i was giving it a little throttle to get on it would stall for a second the rpm's would drop and the check engine light would flash and it did it for a few minutes at random times. so naturally im thinking i got water in the distributor or something in the ingnition got wet, no big deal its happened before but dries out and it ok. next day no problem until i drive for a few hours and the same thing is happening but much more often and at random speeds and rpm's. i have tried watching the light flashing to pick up a code but like i said its so random i am totally lost on this one. has any one else had similar issues? if so thanks in advance for any help
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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nothin huh? i have searched all over with no luck
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Have you tried pulling a diagnostic code by jumping the diagnostic jumper under the hood? Chances are whatever code was causing the light to flicker on and off is most likely stored, if so what if any codes are you getting?

Have you taken the cap and rotor off, sometimes running with water in it will cause corrosion/buildup, try cleaning the cap points and rotor with a high grit sandpaper.

Also check all connectors on all sensors, on may have come loose from water pressure, or have water in it. Seal them with die-electric grease while you have them apart.

Hope this helps, let me know...

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Old 11-08-2009, 06:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check the connection on the coil, and the coil wire, and the connection on top of the distributor. The water pressure from the car wash may have made some of those connections loose. The vibration of it going down the road, may be making the wires make AND break connection. Hence, random cutting in and out. The issue is definately electrical in nature.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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knock sensor
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ok so FINALLY i got around to getting the code to flash...i get a 34 im pretty sure. so my next qustion is which code is it? and yes i have searched everywhere but cant get a solid answer! i dont expect anyone would know this on the spot but if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I looked in my FSM and it does not list a code 34.

Here is a link to an FSM for MFI System--Diagnostics. This has the codes and how to read the codes. Hope it helps.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26diagnosi.pdf
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah i found that site while i was searching around but it seems pretty vague i didnt even see what year/make/model it was for.....again im stumped
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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code 34 is for a turbo charging pressure signal fault...dont think this is the right code. this may prove useful

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

i did the same thing and my truck ran like crap, let it sit for a few days then went to drive it and it cured itself.
you dont need the year make and model, it a OBD1 system, they all use the same code key.


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26diagnosi.pdf- this is the Toyota service manual...if you cant figure it out using this document theres a problem. it is for your year truck.

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Old 11-25-2009, 05:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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alright here is the latest and greatest...i reset the ecu after messing around a little with the distributor and the ingnitor/coil and now it flashing a 4 which is water temp sensor. i replaced the sensor today and after seeing the condition of the old one was sure this it was a problem if not THE problem....i even called my brother who is a toyota mechanic and he informed me that a bad temp sensor can throw off the efi if its not working correctly, this made sense at the time after he explained it to me. sooooo here i am with a new sensor and it is still acting up but it is quite a bit better then it has been....any more input from anyone? sorry if this is getting annoying to anyone but trust me i don't enjoy dealing with this either
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Check your engine ground cable. It's possible there is a break from corrosion inside it somewhere.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah i do know the cables are pretty rough and i did mess around with them first off... in fact the ground to the block is pretty tight so the connection down there could be questionable... but if the ground is coming loose and causing the problem then why such poor fuel mileage? something has got to be throwing that off... and i cant imagine it would just be a loose ground cable? or it could be? thanks again for any info guys the help is much appreciated
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Poor ground can have an effect on fuel mileage. Electronic parts will not function properly without 2 things. Proper voltage, and a good ground. I would at least put a new engine block ground cable on it. Especially if it's stretched tight. That can cause premature wear on the cable (i.e. engine vibration and torque roll breaking some of the wire strands). Believe it or not, a vast majority of problems have been caused by poor grounding. If your engine is not grounded well, the plugs do not have a stable ground for the spark. As such, they do not create complete combustion, and will cause poor fuel mileage. I hope that makes sense. I lost myself halfway through that.
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks Full Throttle, that makes perfect sense i will have to run some news cables this week when i get a minute thanks again everyone i will keep you posted!
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ok i have some good news and some bad news. good news first,of course....I replaced all the battery cables and ends with all new suff took my time and did a good job..i replaced the plug for the temp sensor on the thermostat housing which was toast and i somehow missed so the bad news....im still getting HORRIBLE mileage i mean at least a quarter tank a day and i drive maybe ten miles at the most....any thoughts? thanks a crap load guys
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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ok i have some good news and some bad news. good news first,of course....I replaced all the battery cables and ends with all new suff took my time and did a good job..i replaced the plug for the temp sensor on the thermostat housing which was toast and i somehow missed so the bad news....im still getting HORRIBLE mileage i mean at least a quarter tank a day and i drive maybe ten miles at the most....any thoughts? thanks a crap load guys
I would recheck all the basics, did you get the chain on correctly, timing set right, valves adjusted correctly, compression good etc.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Just a dumb thought. Look under your truck and check for leaking fuel. I mean, 10 miles for a half a tank? Say your tank is 17 gallon (per toyota) or 16 gallon (per general concensus), that's still 8 gallons in 10 miles. That is just a little over 1mpg. If it's running that rich, it wouldn't even run.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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might be a long shot but, you might want to take a good look at your wiring. you might have had a cut or scratched shield somewhere. before you cleaned it everything was good but you might have pushed a wire against something or the fact that it was covered in water might have caused it to arc on something. if you've got say an injector wire that is now grounding it might cause the injector to stay open. did you pressure wash the engine or scrub it down?

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Old 12-09-2009, 06:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Another epiphany. Check your distributor hold down bolt. It's possible that may be causing the "gagging", but to lose that much fuel is rediculous.

EDIT: Before anyone flames me... PAT. I mean, check the hold down bolt to see if it's lose. Might be allowing the distributor to turn, and sacrifice the engine running properly. Causing it to fall flat when you tromp on it.
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Old 12-10-2009, 06:41 PM   #20 (permalink)
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well the truck runs fine its not surging anymore or cutting out and it idles right at 8 grand when its warm...i think its lost a little power but not much and like i said its using fuel like its going out of style...the valves are all adjusted to specs the timing chain was installed right the distributor bolt is tight and its timed just where it should be... i have gone over as many wires as i can looking for maybe some that are exposed or anything that could have gotten wet...plugs wires cap and rotor are only a few months old and the motor is grounded solid now...but i did just remeber there is the ground wire on the head that could be affecting it?? i know its not off or loose but what else besides poor ground can affect fuel comsumption like this? my girlfriend has had the truck for few days so i havent really had the chance to jump it and see if its throwing a code..i probably should, i know again im sorry for dragging this out its probably something small and stupid i am looking over
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Old 12-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
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idles right at 8 grand when its warm
I'm assuming this is a typo. Should idle around 750 RPM's

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its using fuel like its going out of style
For you to be using THAT much fuel (8 gallons in 10 miles as previously stated) it HAS TO BE LEAKING
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:48 AM   #22 (permalink)
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either way 750 or 800 is pretty close to where it should be and i know its not leaking...a leak that big would smell stong enough to give it away i know this because i did have a very small leak a few months back and i could smell it even with the hood closed...im gonna try and jump it today and see if i can get a code...
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Sure the gauge is right? Checked the oil level lately?
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Old 12-11-2009, 06:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I've never seen one run, dumping that much fuel in. If it's actually burning a half a tank in 10 miles, you will still smell gas. I've seen race cars get better MPG. At that rate, you're burning more fuel than a freight train.
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I would recheck all the basics, did you get the chain on correctly, timing set right, valves adjusted correctly, compression good etc.
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I've never seen one run, dumping that much fuel in. If it's actually burning a half a tank in 10 miles, you will still smell gas. I've seen race cars get better MPG. At that rate, you're burning more fuel than a freight train.
He said a 1/4 tank in ten miles but yea that is still WAY rich! I tend to agree that that much gas and it would not run. Maybe he is over exaggerating but I always say recheck the basics: compression (this will tell you if the valves are sealing and if the chain is at least close to being right), timing (including if the chain is on right), spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse. Then coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, TPS sensor all at the computer so you know what it is seeing. Etc....

I would also take a good look under it to make sure its not leaking gas
Checking the oil is a good idea too to make sure its not full of gas!
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