My Anorexic Toy

[friggnxj]

Took the rig for a spin around the yard. Other than a few leaks, everything else seems to be working fine. I adjusted the throttle stops and cleaned the dashpot and the idle returns to normal now. Now to fix the leaking fittings, and finish the wiring.

[crashhawk]

Just lost a few hours of my life reading this thread. The progression is ridiculous, as is your fab work.

But Dude, you've got to get a better camera!!

[blown xj]

I can't wait to be able to take my truck for a spin around that yard! I'm steadly losing motivation to work on it though

[friggnxj]

Took the rig out to Bald mountain for a shake down run. I ran a buch of dirt roads, and then hit the trail. Couldn't have been a better run. No unexpected issues and the truck worked well even with 15psi in the tires. The trans shifter wasn't working; I think I wired it wrong somehow but I knew that when I pulled it out of the shop last night. I still have a bunch of finishing touches to add, but atleast it's wheelable again

[friggnxj]

The sound kinda sucks, but here's some video:
DSCF0087 - YouTube

DSCF0119 - YouTube

[3rCrawler]

Bump for tunacock
thanks for another good run ...

[Joeyotaman]

Looks good, I wanna check this thing out. You gonna be at Moonlight madness on bald in a few weeks from now?

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by 3rCrawler

Bump for tunacock
thanks for another good run ...

Hung like a tuna can

Originally Posted by Joeyotaman

Looks good, I wanna check this thing out. You gonna be at Moonlight madness on bald in a few weeks from now?

Thanks. I'll be at moonlight fri-sun. Feel free to come by andnsay hi if you see me. Probably gonna do the day run, and then watch the action on the night run.

[friggnxj]

Got some stuff done. I fixed the shifter issue. Turns out I mixed up the imput wiring on the relays. Two minutes later, I had the thing shifting like "normal".
Threw on some rock lights:


Same spot as last time: on the bellhousing inspection cover, and below the rear ouput shaft.
Then got to work on the rear floor section:


I also got the seat mounted.

[yOHda]

What are your initial impressions of the V8? im swapping in a 1uz in my FJ40 and am getting excited to get her running. just wondering what you thought of it so far. Ive got the older motor but i am running megasquirt and i ditched the dual dizzys for edis.

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by yOHda

What are your initial impressions of the V8? im swapping in a 1uz in my FJ40 and am getting excited to get her running. just wondering what you thought of it so far. Ive got the older motor but i am running megasquirt and i ditched the dual dizzys for edis.

My inital impression is that I now have more than enough power to break shit. It is nice having all that power so that I can really scoot along dirt roads, and I can't wait to take it out to JV and run it wide open. Crawling on the other hand, it is the automatic trans that makes the biggest difference. I noticed the motor is kinda dead below 2000 rpm, but is a rocket above. I haven't done anything as far a performance mods to the motor. All I have done is deleted the emissions crap and have opened up the exhaust. I did notice that with the front sump, that after about a minute on a steep incline the oil pressure dropped off to around 10psi (idles around 25psi at operating temp). I think down the road, I might fab up a rear sump pan or run an accumulator.

[jimmysc13]

Originally Posted by friggnxj

I did notice that with the front sump, that after about a minute on a steep incline the oil pressure dropped off to around 10psi (idles around 25psi at operating temp). I think down the road, I might fab up a rear sump pan or run an accumulator.

why not just swap to the SC400 stuff??

(it's rear sump)

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by jimmysc13

why not just swap to the SC400 stuff??

(it's rear sump)

Isn't it more of a mid sump? Plus, the width of the pan is what is killing me. My links come really close to the pan, moving the stock pan rearward is not really an option.

[jimmysc13]

Originally Posted by friggnxj

Isn't it more of a mid sump? Plus, the width of the pan is what is killing me. My links come really close to the pan, moving the stock pan rearward is not really an option.

it's about as far back as i think you could get...

shouldn't be a problem to narrow it up...

And if you move it back don't the links get "wider"?

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by jimmysc13

it's about as far back as i think you could get...

shouldn't be a problem to narrow it up...

And if you move it back don't the links get "wider"?

The links would be "wider" but at that distance back, the links would be at the same height as the widest part of the oil pan at ride height. I would think that any sort of lateral movement in the links would cause contact with the pan if using the SC pan. Right now the links are much higher than the pan, and only pass above the pan at full bump. I just wonder if the pan is a structural part of this motor?

[jimmysc13]

Originally Posted by friggnxj

The links would be "wider" but at that distance back, the links would be at the same height as the widest part of the oil pan at ride height. I would think that any sort of lateral movement in the links would cause contact with the pan if using the SC pan. Right now the links are much higher than the pan, and only pass above the pan at full bump. I just wonder if the pan is a structural part of this motor?

Aahhh. Gotcha.

Not sure if its structural. I doubt though.

I can snap some pics of the sc setup if you want.

I've gotta get my shit mocked up so I can figure out links.

Out of curiosity how far back is your motor? Maybe a good gauge is how many cylinder are past where the oe firewall would be?

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by jimmysc13

Aahhh. Gotcha.

Not sure if its structural. I doubt though.

I can snap some pics of the sc setup if you want.

I've gotta get my shit mocked up so I can figure out links.

Out of curiosity how far back is your motor? Maybe a good gauge is how many cylinder are past where the oe firewall would be?

I just seems like a very beefy pan. Thanks but I have seen a few SC pans to know that it won't work. I think what the overall reason for it being so tight was using a 4 link up front with a hi pinion 60, and still trying to get it to fit in a "stock" frame.

I'll try to get some measurements tomorrow. I know the motor is back a bit. It will probably be a number from the front of the crank to an imaginary line that runs across the front edge of the forward body mounts.

[zukijames]

dude its a tight fit around the oil pan no matter what frame and axle!

i mocked up my front 4 link with a 22r.. then plans changed..

now my 112 wheel base is around 117 and my 4 link might turn into 60 inch long radius arms and a panhard

it sounds mean i cant wait to get mine done..

i think i will blow shit up fast!

keep me posted us posted on your oil pan mods

i have the sc? the one with the rear sump.. and it still is lame..

dry sump cost some $$ but i might end up going that route

[zukijames]

just some stupid questions.. and i could probably find them if i read your whole thread but its 6:06 am and i havent gone to bed and have been reading trying to figure out my swap stuff all night!


1: do you think the gutless under 2000rpm has something to do with the auto trans?

2: what case you running?

3: how fast do you think i will blow up dual yota cases?

4: whats your frame/belly height

5: what is the height of top bolts on bell housing .. or bottom of oil pan whatever is easier for you to measure?

6: If you know what you know now would you still choose to use a 1uz?



thanks sorry im being annoying sleep deprivation is not good.. sun is up now i can get off the computer and go work on front suspension ..

7: from " its the auto that really makes the difference" i take it your glad you went the auto route?

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by jimmysc13

Out of curiosity how far back is your motor? Maybe a good gauge is how many cylinder are past where the oe firewall would be? From the front of the crank, it is 16" to the front edge of the vertical pinch seam on the cab (the seam that normally would be beaten in for tire clearance). I don't know what stock is so that's the best I can do.

Originally Posted by zukijames

1: do you think the gutless under 2000rpm has something to do with the auto trans?
I believe it has a lot to do with the auto and the TC's stall speed. Someone told me it had to do with the 1uzfe's cam profile but I'm not savy on the subject.

2: what case you running?
np231/dana 300 doubler w/ 4:1 gears in the dana 300

3: how fast do you think i will blow up dual yota cases?
I think they could hang. I've seen several yota cases stand up to SBC power.

4: whats your frame/belly height
21.5"

5: what is the height of top bolts on bell housing .. or bottom of oil pan whatever is easier for you to measure?
The bottom bolts on the bellhousing are 25.5" from the ground.

6: If you know what you know now would you still choose to use a 1uz?
YES

7: from " its the auto that really makes the difference" i take it your glad you went the auto route?
I think it makes a big difference. I was able to hit a line this weekend that I couldn't do with a manual (maybe I just suck at the three pedal dance). My buddy said it best today: "those who hate autos have never wheeled one".

.

[Joeyotaman]

Good meeting you up there, Rig was lookin sick. Sure was a lot of poeple up there! we need to go wheel soon!

[zukijames]

thanks for the info i just pm'd you asking if you had a build ha i was pretty tired when i was reading this this morning!

if i put my frame at 21 inches my pinion is on my oil pan!

messed around with it a little today

hopefully mine turns out half as nice as yours!!

[friggnxj]

Originally Posted by Joeyotaman

Good meeting you up there, Rig was lookin sick. Sure was a lot of poeple up there! we need to go wheel soon!

Thanks. Nice meeting you too. There was a decent crowd but no where near where it used to be. I'll be headed up to bald for the fireworks, and then to mirror on the 13th of July after work. I'm sure I'll see you around.

Originally Posted by zukijames

thanks for the info i just pm'd you asking if you had a build ha i was pretty tired when i was reading this this morning!

if i put my frame at 21 inches my pinion is on my oil pan!

messed around with it a little today

hopefully mine turns out half as nice as yours!!

Yeah, I looked at that PM and was all WTF No worries though. My drivetrain is raised a little so I could do the flat belly. Also to Dana axles have their diff more outboard than do the yotas. Would a two piece driveshaft help?

[zukijames]

i dont think a 2 piece would help thats what i was thinking before but now im not sure..

my yotas are 63 wms to wms but a little more width or offset would be enough to not hit .. i wish i could tig and i'd take the oil pan off and see what it would take to modify it a little.

on the pass side the oil pan comes strait down from where it bolts on . if i could just slope it from the pan gasket to bottom of pan i would be fine


anyways sorry for the hijack awesome rig !

[TiMe_1]

Sweet rig! I'm from Fresno to hope to see ya around sometime!