it is a good idea, i may be making my own kit, soon( nojoke/maybe ) i will use the ifs bearing hub, and rotor, and make a adapter to shim the rotor towards the hub about.780" or so that way the ifs caliper will bolt right on to the nuckle like the stock one would. i will use longer bolts on the rotor instead of longer studs( i don't like longer studs ) and the stock ifs studs will be used for mounting the tire.
it is a good idea, i may be making my own kit, soon( nojoke/maybe ) i will use the ifs bearing hub, and rotor, and make a adapter to shim the rotor towards the hub about.780" or so that way the ifs caliper will bolt right on to the nuckle like the stock one would. i will use longer bolts on the rotor instead of longer studs( i don't like longer studs ) and the stock ifs studs will be used for mounting the tire.
You are just talking about putting a spacer between the Ifs rotir and the SA hub aren't you. Is that the way the FROR kit is done? I have been thinking about doing this also But I thought they did something to space out the ifs spindal or something. Am I way off base or what?
Scott wood (dirtbag7-11) on the board makes some spacers to space the ifs rotor like you guys are talking....I am running them on my buggy and they have been great...
You are just talking about putting a spacer between the Ifs rotir and the SA hub aren't you. Is that the way the FROR kit is done? I have been thinking about doing this also But I thought they did something to space out the ifs spindal or something. Am I way off base or what?
no take the bearing hub off a ifs truck and put a spacer between the ifs rotor( vented) and the hub its self, this way you got the vented rotor and the wider stance
fror takes a ifs beraing hub and a stock SA rotor and puts the spacer beweet the two i don't know why they don't keep the ifs rotor?? but there may be a reason.
toy family, what is your buddys phone # i don't really have time to make the spacers so i thing i would buy them if they have a reasonable price.
The reason they don't use the IFS rotor is that it is slightly smaller diameter so the pads don't ride completely on the disc, but stick past it about an 1/8", at least mine do with the IFS rotor's. Though they still seam to work just fine, I've been running them for 9 months now with no problems.
That looks like the same pic FROR sent me...$299 for their kit...Here's Brian's email to me:
"Either brake setup is fine, the kit accomodates both. All you need to supply
is a set of the IFS wheel hubs. We supply the hardware for mounting the
spacer to the hub, hardware for the rotor to the spacer, and new inner wheel
bearing seals. Here's a pic of the spacer."
No offense, but thats alot of dough for esentially JUST the spacer and some seals. I would go and get a cheesy alum 1.5 spacer form off the net for a measly 22 apiece before spending 300 PLUS the rest of the hardware just to widen the axle.
No offense, but thats alot of dough for esentially JUST the spacer and some seals. I would go and get a cheesy alum 1.5 spacer form off the net for a measly 22 apiece before spending 300 PLUS the rest of the hardware just to widen the axle.
i don't normally harp on ignoroant poeple but i am sur glad that you live in texas not here in cali where you could have one or two of your 4" long studs break and the aluminum spacer work loose and have a complete failier of you wheel studs causing the truck to loose control at 60 mph on running across 4 lanes of traffic on hwy 50 in placerville ( j/k but it could happen)
if your going to do it do it the best way posible, this is the best way i have found it to be done.
Again, not trying to harp on OBVIOUSLY ignorant people, but it is my understanding that the correct way to use a spacer that thick would be to use the original studs to secure the spacer to the hub and loctite them on and another set of studs are spaced in between the existing original studs ONLY originating from the inside of the spacer not the spacer and rotor combo (that WOULD be dumb). This has been proven to be safe PROVIDED the spacer is made of strong material and not flawed, that your original studs are replaced with some grade 8 versions, and LOCTITE(only on the original studs securing the spacer to the hub) is used. I am not as stupid as some other people, I am simply pointing out that there are other options available. I OBVIOUSLY would like to use this method its just $$$$$$$$$$$$. Some of us are not made of money! We have to find a happy medium somewhere.
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