Looking for a how to on this one, since I got about an inch of droop left if that in mine...
I'll probably figure it out when I get it apart but looking for hint/tips etc. Also, anyone know what Jesse charges to do this, I am not exactly full of extra time
Yeah, kind of sucks, he wouldn't take my IFS cv as a core when I did my swap. He may be clearancing them now, but I've had a couple lines made for friends and always get a solid axle cv for the core.
I clearanced one a few years back. It was kind of a chore, but I get more travel from it now than a pre IFS cv does. Once it is apart you will see a pin in the middle that rides in a ball socket. The area around this needs to be turned down, or carefully ground out.
from what everyone says it is quite a bit of work and I support Jess so I may just go that way. Wish you were closer Jess Then again it would be cool to have a tech article on this!
IIRC, he used to say $30, but 1) that might have been if you were getting other work done @ the same time, and 2) maybe he's sick of doing it and has decided to charge more since then?
Do a search in here and General and he has given a few tips in the past.
So has anyone got any info on clearancing the IFS CV? I know its only $35 to send it to Jess, but after shipping and all I might as well go get a solid axle CV. I'm just trying to save a buck or 2.
I did one for Eight today & took some pics. I'll do a complete writeup later.
'85 CV on the left, clearanced '91 CV in the middle, stock IFS cv on the right.
The '85 and the clearanced '91 both measured about 35 degrees (even though they look a little different in the picture). The stock IFS one measured about 20 degrees.
clear some room in the center piece for the zerk to move too or it will hit and get crushed. Just remember to put the clearanced spot where the zerk is when you put it back together.
NAPA carries the kits for both IFS and non IFS CV's.
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