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SAS front driveshaft questions

10K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  12_Volt_Dave 
#1 ·
my friend just got his 91 4runner back from the "shop" that did the SAS, long story short, it's not quite done, but he was sick of the BS the "shop" was putting him through.

so we are gonna finish it all up ourselfs. the suspention is all done, front 2" drop hanger, waggy leafs, 7" long shackle; rear chevys. but it needs a front driveshaft, and gears.

what are your opinions on the All-Pro front driveshaft kit? from a little searching, i found that he can run a rear driveshaft in the front (shortened, of course) so that is has a single u-joint, and more angularity. will we be ok with just the stock slip yoke? or should we order the all-pro kit? money is somewhat of an issue (college kids) so we would like to avoid calling up Jess.

secondly, i heard that yota 3rd members are pretty easy to set up, i've done my dana 44 and 30 in my jeep, but i wanted to know what the differences are in yota axles. looking at one, i'm gonna need a tool to adjust the carrier bearing adjuster thingies (technical term there), where can i get this tool?

any other comments or suggestions would be helpfull, and i'll get some pics tomarrow.

Jeff
 
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#2 ·
Rear driveleines are bulky (larger dia tube). It would be best to make a new one. A rear driveline will also not have enough slip. I use almost all 13" of slip in my front driveline. I made my first d line out of square tubing. I was in the same boat as you guys, but after 1 snow run with it, I called Jesse up and got one of his rock crawler lines.

The differences in setting up the gears will be the spanners (thingies as you called them). there is a special tool for adjusting these, but I use a pair of bent nose needle -nose pliers. The spanners adjust the backlash and bearing preload. To do this snug up the bearing cap bolts and then dial the spanners in and out accordingly until you get the proper backlash setting. Then lock tite and torque down the bearing cap bolts and install the spanner retainer clips/bolts. Another difference is the crush sleeve used to set pinion bearing preload. This is done with an inch pound torque wrench, or you can buy a crush sleeve eliminator kit. Do not install the crush sleeve until everything else is done and set, if you screw it up or overtighten it, you need a new one.
 
#5 ·
You will need a long spline slip or a square d-shaft. If you use the IFS CV it will need to be clearenced for more angle. When you say "7" shackles", are those on the front? If so you will end up with a pinion angle problem if he does not have dual t-cases. At least I did on mine. I called Jon at A-P and he told me to use shackles that were 1 1/2"s over stock and it works great, moved my pinion up about 7-8 degrees.:D
 
#7 ·
when i searched, i could have sworn i saw something about using rear driveshafts shortened in the front. if it were my truck i'd run a square driveshaft, but he wants to be able to use 4wd at highway speeds (snowboard trips and such).

what about the all-pro DIY driveshaft kit? seem like a resonably priced option.

and the shackles are about 7" long, but he also has a two inch drop hanger in the front, his driveshaft angle isnt that bad, we're more worried about the slip, and the angle at the t-case.

Jeff
 
#8 · (Edited)
If you have any flex at all, you will need a long spline driveshaft. I have seen too many people seperate a front shaft the first time they take it on a trail that requires some flex. They get out, scratch their head, and say "Gee, it never did THAT before!":D

The All Pro kit is cool, but welding driveshaft tubes can be tricky business. Getting the shaft straight as the welds heat and cool requires some practice. Do a search on square tube driveshafts. they are a cheap, easy to build alternitive to a $400.00 long spline shaft.
 
#9 ·
Just run a square shaft with std rear U-joints. Thats wnat I'm doing. I can drive at 45mph in 4 wd with no vibs. if your doing that on the snow with that tall of a rig you got other problems to worry about like STOPPING! If the square shaft is done properly you will be able to drive it at higher speeds without any problems. Also as a bonus you will be able to swap it to the rear if you toast your rear shaft on a rock. I know this from experence!

If you can set up a D44 and D30 then you should have no problems with the Toy 8". Flatbar and two bolts work great as a spanner!
 
#10 ·
DIRTBAG7-11 said:
Wilson said:
I use almost all 13" of slip in my front driveline.

Boy thats lots of slip for the pavement must be really bumpy roads in chico:flipoff2:

Hmm, odds are I won't see YOU at fordyce this weekend, you'll be too busy pounding pavement.:flipoff2:

Wait, you're running All Pro springs Scott, you probably could shorten a rear driveline and use the stock 3" slip:flipoff2:

I need to put your bumper on my wish list pm me a price please

-Jeremy
 
#11 · (Edited)
Im not sayin that you are bullshittin, but 13 inches of travel on a front driveshaft? gimme a break!! Although Ive never gotten out to measure it, it does not seem reasonable.

Go square, and leave the rear driveline for the balanced pros(highangle). Front doesnt mean sh!t. You will only waste big money on a front long travel unit, which will never compare to the travel of a square driveline.
Im over the hill from you, if you want for a small fee of beer Ill build you a square one. :flipoff2:
 
#13 ·
Wilson said:



Hmm, odds are I won't see YOU at fordyce this weekend, you'll be too busy pounding pavement.:flipoff2:

Wait, you're running All Pro springs Scott, you probably could shorten a rear driveline and use the stock 3" slip:flipoff2:

I need to put your bumper on my wish list pm me a price please

-Jeremy
well youre right I won't be going this weekend. we did the clean up last week end what happened to you.
you must measure youre drive line the same way you measure youre. O never mind:flipoff2:
 
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