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Old 10-05-2010, 10:42 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhama78 View Post
FYI my 3" TG front springs settled at least 2.5-3 inches since I put them on my rig.. you'll know when they start settling because your steering wheel will be turned to the right when going straight... ive had to adjust my draglink at least 3 times in the last two years because of the springs settling.

good looking ring by the way...
Good to hear they could settle that much. I plan on running them for a while and see how they break in.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 4funner86 View Post
so did u have to clearance that bolt to clear the spring? what size u bolts u runnin?
Yes I clearance the bolt to clear the spring, without it the springs will not line up correctly with the perches, and will be a PITA to get together.

I am running the TG U-Bolts that I believe are 9/16".
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:32 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Update time:

I have been pretty busy traveling with work the last month or so, progress has been very slow, but i'm hoping to make some more progress in November.

Here is a little video of the locker switch functional: (Click to view)


Next step was to make my square front drive shaft-
Cut up square stock-


Cut CV off of shaft-


Ground down the end for the square tubing-




Than Modify the CV to get a little more movement out of it-


Welding up the CV Joint-


Finished up product:
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:38 PM   #28 (permalink)
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A little undesired byproduct of the square driveshaft was a nice spark in my eye. I always wear eye safety glasses with the little side pieces, but I have no upgraded to full goggles.

I got really lucky I was able to see an optometrist after hours, and he was able to get most of the metal out of my eye, and give me some really good anti-biotics so it would not get infected. It scare the hell out of me because it happened the night before i left for a 2 week trip for work, and i would not have any downtime on the trip.

I made it through the trip and when to see my optometrist and he was able to pull the last little pice of rust out with a a random pointy tool (no drilling for me).

So lesson in the story- Wear something that fully protects your eyes not just safety classes.

My eyeball all pissed off-
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:42 PM   #29 (permalink)
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A little non-tech

Here are a couple work pictures enjoy-
Fuji Rock Festival- Japan


East Coast Monitor Rig


Citizens Bank Arena-
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:48 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Back to work now:

I wasn't happy with the rear upper rock mount so i decided to redo that this morning.

Removed the bed-


Than I removed the old upper link mount (2" steel tube with shock tabs welded to the bottom)

2x2x.250 steel tube cut up


Than I boxed in the cutouts to give it a little more strength

Than welded it all in and mounted the shocks-


Finished up-
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:21 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Nice eyeball!!! Haha what do you do for work? Ive always wanted to go to japan :/
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:30 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Did the new mount help?
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:52 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Nice eyeball!!! Haha what do you do for work? Ive always wanted to go to japan :/
Yea i got lucky as hell with the eye, not much in the way of pain or discomfort.
But the damn antibiotics were $85 for a 3ml dose. Oh well live and learn.


I am a freelance audio engineer for work, The pics are from summer/fall touring this year. Japan was amazing, but I was only there for a couple days. I am hoping to go back sometime next year and stay for a little while.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:57 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycouchpullsoutidont View Post
Did the new mount help?
I have not flexed the truck since putting the new rear shock mount in, but the shock was limiting my up travel with the previous setup. With this new setup I should still have plenty of droop and have a couple more inches of up travel. I still need to get my bump stops installed but i cant wait to get the truck out.

I am trying to plan a trip to hungry valley in the next couple weeks, if anyone is up for a day trip up there.
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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$150 on decent shocks only to mount them so they are ineffective. Good job.
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:13 PM   #36 (permalink)
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$150 on decent shocks only to mount them so they are ineffective. Good job.
pardon the stupid question but mounting them the first time or second time?


The first time was done by a buddy because i didn't have time to do it, when i figured out that it wouldn't work i came up with the second idea, we'll see how well it works out.
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:27 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbarnesvta View Post
pardon the stupid question but mounting them the first time or second time?


The first time was done by a buddy because i didn't have time to do it, when i figured out that it wouldn't work i came up with the second idea, we'll see how well it works out.


Both actually. But the new mount makes their efficiency go way down so they don't dampen as much as they would when mounted straight in line with the travel of the axle. The triangulated mounting also makes them worthless on corners allowing the body to lean. I'm not dogging on the mount because of speculation I am dogging on you because I've done the same fawking stupid mounting and it sucked for the very same reasons I already said.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:39 PM   #38 (permalink)
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looks like a nice clean build. Keep up the good work
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:48 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWT View Post
Both actually. But the new mount makes their efficiency go way down so they don't dampen as much as they would when mounted straight in line with the travel of the axle. The triangulated mounting also makes them worthless on corners allowing the body to lean. I'm not dogging on the mount because of speculation I am dogging on you because I've done the same fawking stupid mounting and it sucked for the very same reasons I already said.
i see what your saying, I'm going to see how to works for now, I am not planning on chopping the hell out of the bed just yet, but when i do ill be changing the config of them.
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:55 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I have been in the market for a little mig welder I can use at home and not have to do everything with the arc welder at my shop, I found a lincoln weld-pak 3200 HD on craigslist the other day, so i picked that up as well as the little welding table to go with it.

I know it won't do anything to heavy duty, but i have read some reviews and i should be able to flux-core up to 1/4". Anything more I will just use the arc, but i should be able to do a lot of work with this one.

The table isn't anything special 48x24x30, top plate is 3/16 steel, which should work fine until i have some more space.







As you can see in the pics there is a bit of rust on the table, I have since hit it with a wire wheel to clean it up a bit is there anything you guys put on your table to keep it from rusting? I wont be using the table a lot so i was thinking about using some type of oil or something, but i didn't want to use anything that will effect the conductivity of the table or contaminate the project i'm working on.
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:11 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Well i've been having some issues with the square driveshafts vibrating like a mother. I still need to do some welding and grinding to the inner tube to see if that gets rid of the majority of it because there is quite a bit of slop between the tube right now.

If that doesn't fix the issues I will probably be looking into a prebuilt driveshaft.
Now for the questions.

I have attached a ghetto picture of the angles of my driveline. Currently the pinion angle is -3* (pointing down by 3*) and the transfer case is +4* (pointing up 4*). Will this current setup work, or do i need to fix this before I even worry about getting a front driveshaft? As far as fixing I do not really want to cut the axle apart and rotate the ends, are angle shims something to look at?

Lastly I have been looking at something like this for a prebuilt driveshaft http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c....php?f=3&t=296
anyone have luck with these? Do i need to worry about having a CV vs. Non-CV driveshaft in the front? Will a Non-cv driveshaft flex enough up front?


Thanks
Steven
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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And the ghetto ass drawing.

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Old 11-05-2010, 08:21 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Davez front drive shaft is money well spent and stout would be an under statement.... has a grease fitting and no issues so far..... been thru the rubicon and barrett lake trails with no issues.... I have about a 6in suspension lift with a 2in body lift. No issues with the drive shaft what so ever... in ref to movement... send him a pm..... or you can try to call...
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:03 PM   #44 (permalink)
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So i have decided to fix the front axle issues instead of just screwing around with bandaid fixes that will never be right.

I went on a 4hr journey this morning to pick up a new front axle housing from Randy @ Randybuilt. He gave me a hell of a deal on it, and it is already trussed and armored. It is going to take some love to get it back into shape, but it should be a really good starting point.

While I was on my way out to pickup the front axle I picked up a 2001 tacoma rear with an e-locker. I was planning on running a spool in the rear, but i figure for $100 price difference I would just go with a selectable and keep the truck a little more drivable while around town. I got the axle from lv2baja. If you ever need toyota parts he can get just about anything and will make you a great deal. Highly Recommended.

I haven't decided if I want to just run that rear axle or pull the 3rd member and put it in the axle that is already under the truck. Any thoughts?

Here are a couple pics,
I managed to get both axles in the back of my DD (2006 Scion XB) with the seats folded down. You can beat 32mpg while carrying 2 axles in the back.


Rear axle sitting on some HF dollies for easy rolling access. I am going to pull it apart tomorrow. I want to regear the 3rd before it all goes back together.


I got the front axle housing cleaned up. I am planning on starting to grind on it tomorrow.

The good side


And the side that saw a bit of Johnson Valley. I need to figure out a way to get the old oil drain plug out, I'm thinking just weld a nut onto it and see if i can thread it out.
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:07 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I have been looking around for some info on clocking the axle to correct the pinion angle, but haven't found much info about it.

I looked through the Toyota Bible V2.0 and didn't see anything, is this something i would find in V1.0.

I did find a decent article by 4x4wire.com
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

I will probably start cutting up the front axle in the next couple days, but i need to get all the measurements before i start cutting.
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:50 PM   #46 (permalink)
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i just put a 04 tacoma axle in my runner i like it cuz it is wider and keeps my tires away from my frame. i have seen the housings crack where the srpring perches are mounted though . i ended up sleeving my housing with some 3 inch i.d. dom from the backing plate to where the housing necks up . its about 9 inches on each side im hoping this will solve the weak housing problem.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:19 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Didn't have much time to work on stuff today, but i managed to tear down the old rear axle. I needed to pull the e-locker to figure out what gears were in it, and i wanted to make sure everything else was in good working order.

Empty rear housing-


E-locker seems to be in good working order, I tested out the motor and all is happy with it. Gears look like they are all in good shape.


Time to cut all the 3-link stuff off the front axle.


Getting there, I went through a couple cutting discs getting all the brackets off, i still need to finish cleaning up the axle with a grinding disc.


Something tells me randy didn't want these steering stops going anywhere, they were a bitch to cut off, but i like the bulletproof idea for putting the new ones on.




That is all for the day, I am hoping to get the front axle modified for the e-locker tomorrow, and possibly start figuring out how much I need to clock this axle. I am in the process of getting a new shop with work, so hopefully I will have a shop other than my garage to work on this stuff.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:21 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbop999 View Post
i just put a 04 tacoma axle in my runner i like it cuz it is wider and keeps my tires away from my frame. i have seen the housings crack where the srpring perches are mounted though . i ended up sleeving my housing with some 3 inch i.d. dom from the backing plate to where the housing necks up . its about 9 inches on each side im hoping this will solve the weak housing problem.
What front axle are you running? I still don't know if I want to run the 92 or 01 rear axle. I like the width matching the front like it is now, but i will have to modify the rear housing for the e-locker if I go that route.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:52 PM   #49 (permalink)
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No pictures to update, but i pulled the 82 front axle out today. I found a place down in LA that traded me a 4.10 e-locker for my 4.30 front so i now have 2 4.10 e-lockers that should work fine with the 33's i'm still running.

I am waiting for some spring perches, so as soon as they come in I will get the 85 front axle going.


I have done some searching around about clocking a toyota axle than having an issue with the square U-Bolt on the passenger side closest to the diff. From what I have found most people just bend the U-Bolt to fit and go from there, is there any other ways to do this?
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:07 AM   #50 (permalink)
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here's kind of how I did mine.
http://4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

i just bent up some ubolts for the square side and it's worked great for several years, but I've seen guys burn in some studs to the perch. cleaner but more work
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