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Old 12-28-2010, 08:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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22RE EGR removal and aftermarket temp guages

I have a 92 22re and a buggy wiring harness from Davez.

I thought I'd share some tech since most of these photos have been deleted in my searches for this same info.

this is my fan controller
I put it in the M16-1.5 fitting where the factory gauge was hooked up between injectors



the adapters create a heat sink and the fans don't turn on soon enough the first time.

The adapter is from www.mcmaster.com
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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my engine bay looks like this before





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Old 12-28-2010, 08:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Davez had to get me a new harness (mine was toast)

when I got it back it had these extra connectors

EGR and EGR VSV (as well as a 2nd O2 sensor)





The intial install without these connections didn't show any CEL (Check Engine Light)
but then the light came on and stayed on. It still ran good and it just went with it.

I recently moved the radiator up front and disconnected the factory temp gauge connection for the fan controller. Somehow someway the light went off and hasn't been on since.

So I thought it was a good time to pull the unneeded junk and see if the CEL stays off each step of the way.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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this is on the back of the intake and needs to be blocked off



the rest of the EGR stuff attached to it
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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pull it off





use to make blockoff plates
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I then pulled these off



leaving more wires going no where

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Old 12-28-2010, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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then I yanked this off

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Old 12-28-2010, 09:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I pulled the lines from the power steering pump too just to clean it up more and they aren't really need.

the only vac lines I have are a small one to the fuel regulator and the breather (edit - and brake booster). I've had the PCV capped for years but I need to reroute it and the other breather so that oil can't get into the intake.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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my battery died on the camera so I'll update with after pics later.

but now I have some questions on the coolant passages on the 22re.

This pic is the bottom of my intake, in the middle is a coolant tube that goes around the back of the block. Directly above is my fan controller fitting.



it goes around and is looped back into another collant line that goes to the water pump area.



these used to be for the heater

can I block them off and still get a good reading at my fan controller fitting? Does coolant flow well there or do the lines create a way for the system to bleed itself?
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would say you may be having issues from the amount of teflon your using effecting the ground vs the adapter heat sinking. The snap disk is in the end of the sensor away from the threads. If there is an air pocket there you may also see problems with the fan not turning on/off normaly.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've heated the fittings up with a heat gun and it works great. It's working fine now but with all the adapters - and the outside temp of 20F ti takes a while for it to heat up.

I've also got a temp gauge that I need to put somewhere. I was gonna put it on the BVSV location but I need to do another 3 adapter deal.

I'm thinking of blocking off the heater lines and putting fittings in the plate.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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On my 94 all that stuff has been gone for awhile now. I tucked the plugs from the valve cover area down between the runners on the intake. I dont know of any adverse affect's. I still have the heater lines.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is what I did on my 3.0 for the temp gauge. You want the tip of the sensor in the flow off the coolant. I drilled a hole in the neck, tapped it for the fitting. Since it was so thin I then JB welded it then the sensor screwed into it. With it placed there it measures the hottest the coolant gets, just before the radiator. If I had a fan sensor I would do the same thing.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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here's the metric adapter if anyone is looking for one

http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-thread-adapters/=acx2kg
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:13 AM   #15 (permalink)
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hey could you add a little more detail. I've removed vacuum lines on old chevys, but i'm hesitant to do it on a 22re. Does it affect the motor positively or have negative affects. Exactly which lines are necessary, thanks, this is a cool thread.

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Old 12-29-2010, 07:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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depends on your definition of necessary


Mine isn't street legal so the only lines it "needs" are

1. fuel regulator
2. brake booster

There are threads out there about removing the EGR that has the electronic sensor and putting a resistor in it to fool the computer. My truck never had that sensor or plug. I sent off the wiring harness and got back a California harness in return with that plug. It has never been plugged in and the light went off so I guess I don't need it.

I'm running the vent and PCV both just to the atmosphere so I don't get oil in the intake from a roll.
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm pulling off the coolant line tubes also. On the one under the intake I'm putting a weld bung on the blockoff plate for an extra sensor.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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hey could you add a little more detail. I've removed vacuum lines on old chevys, but i'm hesitant to do it on a 22re. Does it affect the motor positively or have negative affects. Exactly which lines are necessary, thanks, this is a cool thread.
just bumping this Id like to know of any performance gained or lost or are you just doing this to make it look pretty.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:17 AM   #19 (permalink)
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don't think there will be a loss or gain but I'm not a fan of unnecessary stuff. It will clean up the engine compartment and make things a little easier to work on.
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Old 01-09-2011, 11:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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finished photos







surprised at the amount of useless crap is on there
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:01 AM   #21 (permalink)
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What did you do with the air valve, if anything? Last I checked, that is a needed part. Especially, here in the midwest.

Air valve function: Coolant from the engine passes through, heating a diaphram. The diaphram changes the flow of air through the opposite site of the valve, into the throttle body, lowering the idle speed. This was used in place of a solenoid on the throttle body, to adjust the amount of air intake at idle speeds. Primary function, to adjust idle according to vehicle temperature, and time for warm up.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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what's the air valve?

did I remove it?

FYI I don't know what I'm doing, I just pulled crap off.

There is a BVSV or something or another that controlled the EGR valves, that's all that it did and I blocked off/removed the EGR so it's not hooked up.
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91blaze View Post
I'm pulling off the coolant line tubes also. On the one under the intake I'm putting a weld bung on the blockoff plate for an extra sensor.
The hose attached to the tube on the passenger side, in the center of the block, went to the air valve. It's a cube looking thing under the intake plenum, with spider legs of hoses coming off of it. It's directly below the throttle body. That unit, is what gives you the fast idle for warm up, and drops idle when warm. I know that, because we are fighting with one currently. The runner idles the same, regardless of temperature. Except, after we drive it for a while. It's hard to set the engine warm idle speed, when it changes every 5 minutes.
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I'll look but...

The coolant hose on the passenger side went around the block to the other side, those lines were just looped together. I never had a valve on the coolant lines, my understanding is those coolant lines only supplied the heater core.

It sounds like you are talking about the BSVS or whatever, it is under the throttle body and has 2 vacuum lines to it. Those vacuum lines when to the EGR valve.

I can tell you that I do get fast idle for warm up still - how I don't know but it will idle up until I tap the throttle then it will drop back down.

I'm also having trouble bleeding my coolant system but I haven't tried too hard yet.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
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The hose attached to the tube on the passenger side, in the center of the block, went to the air valve. It's a cube looking thing under the intake plenum, with spider legs of hoses coming off of it. It's directly below the throttle body. That unit, is what gives you the fast idle for warm up, and drops idle when warm. I know that, because we are fighting with one currently. The runner idles the same, regardless of temperature. Except, after we drive it for a while. It's hard to set the engine warm idle speed, when it changes every 5 minutes.
Do you have a photo of what your talking about?

Blase, Pull and plug off the items circled in red with Allen head pipe plugs.
Where do you have the PCV / crank case vent hoses going? Are those two tied together into a "T"?

WTF is that on your throttle linkage?

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