Dana 60 rear install '97 4Runner

[cougarfreak]

I have been running the stock Toyota 8" rearend in my 4Runner with 4.56 gears, and a Detroit Locker. Back in 2005, I was Chasing a VORRA desert race in Hawthorne for my friend Oscar Lara #724. We were prerunning the course with 5 guys total in the vehicle (includes me driving), and a full load of recovery gear in the back in case we were to get stuck, or broke. There is an 8 mile or so section on the course that has 6 30' rollers that one can hit as fast as your vehicle can go... we hit them at about 80mph. It was like a roller coaster ride... an absolute BLAST!!!!! At the end of the section, I stopped to make sure everything was ok.... well, it wasn't. I had installed airbumps in all 4 corners, but the rear housings I mistakenly only mounted 1/2 way up the frame. The housing bent into the center of the frame cocking the air bumps off their pads, and rendering them useless. I nursed it back to the pit area where I heated up the frame and moved the bump housings back to where they needed to be, then full frame gusseted both sides with some 0.250" angle iron. That did the trick and I was back in business. Unfortunately, Oscar's race didn't fare much better. Oscar's motor caught fire from all the ATF fluid that was puking out his breather tube (faulty valve body) and ended his race 3 miles from finishing in 1st for his class. The long term effects of this Roller coaster ride were bent axle tubes from the perches out. this issue didn't rear it's ugly head until last year (2006) when my wheel bearings started making a terrible grinding noise on the way home from a Rubicon play day. Time to ditch the 8"...


I thought about a Diamond Axle housing, or a race 9", but both would have set me back at least $3500. I weighted my options, and $$$, and... I sourced a Dana 60 rear axle from PnP out of a 1975 Ford F250 Hi-Boy.


The rear axle shafts were 16 splined (30 splined are much more desireable), but I was going to have to go with custom shafts anyway since I was cutting it down from 64"(stock width WMS-WMS) to 60.75" (Stock 3rd gen 4Runner 8" width). I didn't keep it stock width because I didn't want to have to run spacers in the front to keep the track width proper. The cost of having the axle tubes cut down and bored out to accept 35 splined axle shafts was not too bad, so I went that route. I could have gone with dually hubs (They make the WMS-WMS narrower, but I'm not sure by how much), but I didn't want to make another trip to the junk yard to get those. I also didn't want the hub sticking out too far, as I tend to smack them from time to time (found this out when I ran center cones in my rims and had to cut them out after deforming them on a wheeling trip). So here's the list:

* The diff cover is from Ruff Stuff and is 0.375" thick (that aughtta handle a good beating).
* Axles are 1541 Chromolly 35 splined Yukon trim to fit. They arrived 33.5" in length.
* Rotors are '75 Chevy 3/4 ton fronts (lots of years use same rotors)
* '76 Cadillac El Dorado brake calipers (parking brake)
* Great Lakes Offroad's mounting brackets (Ford and Dodge are different)
* Detroit Locker
* 4.56 Yukon Gearset

Time to install!!! I cut down the axle shafts. This is what they looked like out of the box:


Time to trim... Driver:


Passenger:


Trimmed an extra 0.120" each side and chamferred:



Looking good with 35's!!!


Set under the truck, 1.5deg angle pinion flange to the d-shaft to keep everything running without vibration:


Welded perches (I love using gas):


Time to Truss (No more bent housings for me!!!). 2"x4" 0.120 wall square tubing will be used. This will go on top of the axle. The axle tubes are beefy already with 0.50" wall, but I saw a Dodge in a desert race make a smiley face outta his front axle with the same tubes. If I bend this axle, there's going to be a lot more wrong with the rig than just bent axles!!! Let's not find out!!!!

[cougarfreak]

A little update on progress:
I welded on the air bump plates:




and carved out the truss to fit the pads:




Welded on the shock tabs and bolted on the shocks:




Next up, carve the truss to fit the rear shock tab and shock, then it's TRUSS WELDING TIME!!!!!!

[cougarfreak]

Air bump pads gussetted to prevent distortion due to impact:


Truss trimmed to fit shock tabs, then tacked:


and finish welded WOO HOO!!!!



I decided to weld a cap between the truss and the rear face of the housing to cover a gap there. Doing so will avoid collecting mud and rocks:


Apparently the cast portion of the housing crystalizes when welded. If left to cool on it's own it may crack the weld. All of my welding gurus (Thanks Matt, Dave, and Oscar!!!!) recommended I use a center punch and tap it with a hammer every 1/8th inch or so right next ot the welds on the cast side, or reheating and cooling multiple times to slow the cool to prevent crackage. The center punch method worked wonderfully. There's a pneumatic tool called a scaler that apparently does the same thing, but I didn't have quick access to one. Best I can tell there was no warpage to the tubes and everything appears to work as designed (wheeeew). I'll post with installed pics shortly.

[cougarfreak]

Alright, I guess a little update is in order (yes I have been working on my junk, just SLOWLY)... I trussed the front end, photos to be posted soon, similar to how I did the rear. I took both axles to Performance Cryogenics in Lincoln (1.5 hour drive one way, but quite beautiful and in the middle of NOWHERE) to see if I had warped them. Problem was, Dean and the boyz were in LAS VEGAS at the SEMA show and wouldn't be back until FRIDAY (Dumba** me didn't call first... ROOKIE). On my liesurly drive back home, I had an epiphany to call Sean at River City Diffs to see if he could perform the warp test... sho 'nuff!!! The first thing out of Bill's mouth (Sean's 2nd in command... i think) was, "Holy over weld job!!!" Not exactly what I wanted to hear. Turns out in my attempt at welding trusses on the axles to prevent them from bending, I wound up with bent axles (insert favorite 4 letter word here, a couple of times). He said I was going to have to start over... NOT!!!! Then Sean stepped in and mentioned Lincoln Welding and Machining and said Cliff could straighten my pair of bananas for under $500. I called it good and gutted the axles and dropped them off at Lincoln. I hope to get them back by next Friday so I can start putting everything back together.

[cougarfreak]

Here's da frunt truss.
Templates:


Long side:


Knuckle Gussett:


Full view:

[93chico4by]

Dang Chad, lookin spiffy.

[cougarfreak]

I can't wait to get them back so I can go wheeling with Team Green again!!!!! May be I'll join you in your next rock cross...
you guys welded a truss on Ben's front end didn't you? Did you have 'em checked for warping? I see a ton of those Toyota trusses from All Pro (I think) on the trail and now wonder how many of them have warped axles from it. Maybe the thinner Toyota housings don't take as much penetration so they aren't as inclined to warpage? Anyway I'll post my findings on how to best prevent warpage with truss action when I pick them up.

[93chico4by]

O, Ben's junk is definetly warpped. lol. OOps, live and learn, atleast it wasn't my rig.

I did his trus really slow and only welded a little bit of it up, no where near as much as you did. It isn't too bad, he was able to get the shafts in no problem and now, i guess that is the least of his problems

[ErikB]

Damn, seems like a Diamond housing would have been a whole lot better (esp. lighter) for the go-fast stuff you like. And I don't see why you'd say it would set you back $3500? Should have only been about $1000.

Are you going to swap to 8-lug hubs up front to match the rear?

[numtel]

Yeah I'm pretty sure chad is going 8 lug all around

I think my front end is only bent a little...I don't know if the shafts will come out but I'll probably drive on it for a while...a little camber never hurt right?

[cougarfreak]

I am close to full size weight, and therefore felt the 8" ring n pinion were borderline (I have busted 2 pinions, but they were Genuine Crap from 4wp, so I won't consider that justification). I wanted to go with a 9" (nodular 3rd) or bigger (D60), full float, chromos, trussed (basically all the elements I put into my 60) = $3500+ for a Diamond. My rig isn't and never will be pre-run specific. I built it to go everywhere. I am more set up for the rocks (more droop than compression), I just have good shocks, air bumps, and trusses to be able to handle the desert too. I seem to recall the Diamond housing was $1800, add the FROR full float kit $1200 with all the extras to get (with smallish calipers from the Supra) and I'm back up near the $3000 mark which is where I am now, but I have a D60 instead of a smallish 8". Didn't seem prudent to put that kind of $$$ into a borderline set up when I could get what I have now for the sam $$$. My 60 would have been cheaper had I done a bit more research in the art of good welding techniques...

Yes, 8 lugged front 44. I bought some junkyard Chevy 3/4 ton front spindles and hubs from a friend (turns out I didn't need the spindles as they are exactly the same as the Waggy spindles I had).

Originally Posted by ErikB

Damn, seems like a Diamond housing would have been a whole lot better (esp. lighter) for the go-fast stuff you like. And I don't see why you'd say it would set you back $3500? Should have only been about $1000.

Are you going to swap to 8-lug hubs up front to match the rear?

[cougarfreak]

It looks like the price has gone down since I last looked... oops!! I started this swap decision 1.5 years ago and prices may have been higher... maybe I was smokin the glass pipe, but I'm usually pretty thorough with most of my research.

[JeepingEaglesChick]

Cougarfreak, Cougarfreak, He's cougar freaky!


Looking good buddy!

[cougarfreak]

Where the heck is that dancin' smily???

(Hi Reebs, I won't tell anyone it's you, ssshhhhhh!!!!)

[cougarfreak]

Update:
Cliff said that my welds leaked hot dip fluid indicating, even though I preheated before welding, my 110v Weldmark 135+ just didn't have enough ass to start hot enough didn't penetrate well until further down the weld. He drilled an 1/8th" hole in the truss to help drain fluid that may collect in it during water crossings. My whole reasoning for solid welding it just went out the window. I was trying to avoid rusting out the inside of the truss. Ah, well. Live and learn!!!!

He also told me the axle was warped before I pulled it outta the junk yard, though my welding on the top didn't help the situation. Spun races in the diff's journal showed signs of massive wear. He was able to straighten the axles and clean up the wear, so I'm good to go, $580 later. The rear d60 was bout 1/2" outta whack. I'll pick them up tomorrow and ask him how I can advise my fellow homefabbers on welding trusses without warping the axle and post that advise here.

[cougarfreak]

Update: 1/12/08 (yes it's taken me this long) I finally took some time to try and get the rig running on the road again and did some work this week. I picked up the axles a while ago, and the races had spun at some point in the axle's life, and the jounals had to be machined, so I had Lincoln clean that up when they straightened the axle. $600 later, I have straight axles that are ready for life under my 4Runner (Sheeeeeesh). I took them to FAO in Vacaville (Thanks Neil and Clint) to have the ring and pinion set up put back together in the diffs and checked for proper backlash and preload. With the machining Lincoln did, I had to have the carrier set up again in the 60. I now have the axles ready for paint and install, just need to do the hubs races n bearings.

[cougarfreak]

I went to put in the races in my D60 and 44 hubs Saturday, and the D60 went together flawlessly. The 44, on the other hand, had an issue with the larger bearing's race. I have JML104-911 races that are a perfect fit in the D60, but don't fit in the D44. When I got home I checked all of the bearings and cross referenced them with the ones I ordered. All of the bearings are the same for the D60 and the larger of the D44. The races are all the same for the D60, but the D44 has a step in the hub that stopped the JML104-911 from going in to the race seat. I compared the race number with the one that came out, and found they were one # off. The removed race JML104-910. I calipered the O.D. of the 2 races and found they had a .025 difference. That would stop it from going past the step. I picked up the 910's from Autozone yesterday, and installed them in to the hub. Now paint and install, and brake lines!!!!

Summary:
'76 Ford D60 rear hub races (all Timken): JML104-911 Bearings: Set38 LM104-949

'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front large hub race (all Timken): JML104-910 inner Bearings: Set38 LM104-949
'76 Chevy/ '81 waggy D44 front Small hub race (all Timken): LM501-310 outter Bearings: Set45 LM501-349

Inner hub D44:


Inner hub closeup showing step (clean spot is where the race should go):


Inner hub race properly installed w/ race JLM104-910 (911 would only go in to the 1st step):

[cougarfreak]

I asked Cliff what a home fabber can do to prevent warpage, and he said that "it's gonna warp no matter what you do". In a jig, it still warps, it just binds up around whatever you are using to jig it with (gettin' jiggey whit it... sorry cranial flatulation). Then you have to figure out how to warp it back to get the jig out... Weld it, then get it straightened... $100 USUALLY. I've been told that this is just him trying to keep business. Fact or fiction, to a degree, it makes sense.

[66CJdean]

Sorry we didn't get it to work out but it looks like it all did in the end. I bet if you look for me at the VORRA races you will find me.

[cougarfreak]

No problem Dean. I enjoyed the beautiful drive to your place, though!!! I hope SEMA went well for ya. I'll keep my eyes pealed for ya at VORRA!!! You racing or spectatin'? Hopefully I'll have my beast driveable and bring it to the race on the 6th. I've been playing the Daddy card lately so haven't been spending much time in the garage, but I'm slowly but surely chipping away at 'er. I've done most of the painting and cleaning of parts. Now I just need to relocate the passenger side air bump then put everything together, brake lines, n drive!!!

[66CJdean]

Co driver in a few trucks. Probably just kicking it though at the short course races.

[cougarfreak]

Well after some brake issues I've got most of it figured out. Got a new caliper from Quality, out of a Deville for some strange reason (3rd order was the charm) and put it in. All's tight now, but the front brakes just aren't up to snuff. A bit more research showed this is common and a fix is to go with a Chevy Master Cylinder. I've got a 1/2 ton one ($30) going in as soon as I receive the Sky Manufacturing adapter plate ($35).

Another glaring issue reared it's ugly head and that is the power steer lines that I have zip tied and hose clamped to the radiator arcing over the fan with no shroud :shock: have created a small leak in the radiator. I never did like the positioning of them, and mounted them expecting to put a shroud on. Turns out I'd need to make a custom shroud, and the fact of the matter is that I haven't had any cooling issues with out a shroud. So now I need to get longer lines and mount them up and over the timing belt shroud out of the way of the potentially slice and dicing fan and radiator.

After I finish that I'm installing a Tacoma Speed sensor and wiring, then the P-brake. We'll see how many of those jobs will be throwing curve balls at me extending the amount of time I have to wait to go wheeling again!!!!!

[ErikB]

BTW- I dont know if you caught it or not in my or Booger's builds, but your stock master/booster is probably a 2-bolt version which isn't compatible with that adapter.

You'll have to swap to an earlier 4runner/mini truck, T100, or early Tacoma 4-bolt style booster to bolt up that adapter and GM master. You'll probably want the dual diaphragm version like you have now too. Rancho Toy Trucks on here says they have boosters for $35.

In my '97 I used the T100 booster I'd been running in my '86.

[cougarfreak]

Thank you very much. I didn't catch that!!!! I'll see what I can grab.

[cougarfreak]

Is Rancho Toy Trucks a vendor? How do I get in touch with them?