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Project "Mo Power!"


After many rebuilds and every possible attempt to squeeze the most smoggable ponies out of my toyota 22r I have decided to do an engine swap. In the spirit of achieving "ponies" I bought an 88 Mustang GT with a HO 302 as the donor for the project. I will detail the project below.

If you have any questions, suggestions, recomendations or just want to drop me an email send it to webmaster@RiverCityRockCrawlers.com.


The cast steel bellhousing, and clutch fork came from a ford f-250 w/ a t-18 and 205 - not sure what year. I needed the truck bellhousing to bolt the truck transmission on to, apparently there are very few bellhousings and some have the hookups for a hydraulic clutch and others were meant for a linkage clutch. I will need to make a bracket since mine was not made for a hydraulic slave cylinder but it is cast and I hear the aluminum ones tend to crack. If you haven't caught it from the picture the first bellhousing I got was the wrong one, it was for a big block. When you buy your parts be sure to check for fit as you go. I was lucky enough to find a wrecker that was willing to straight trade the bellhousing.



The Clutch I bought if came from napa and is a rebadged Luk. The clutch was made for the 92' flywheel that I bought. I have no idea what those extra pieces are that came with my kit in the picture, a small o-ring and a snap ring. I intend to try to use my toyota slave cylinder, but I don't know how that will work yet..



The donor for the engine is an 88 Mustang GT with the HO 5.0 engine. This is the first year of the MAS rather than the Speed Density so it is a bit easier to hop up when the 225 horsepower is not enough.



All the stock emmissions from the mustang will be carried over in order to be legal. The tube that goes behind the engine is one of the biggest obstructions - a slight bit of hammering is about all I did, and that is what decided the location of the engine. Without emmissions the engine would have been a bit further back.



The flywheel has to have the same offset balance similiar to the car manual flywheel but has to be made for a truck in order to have the larger clutch and for the truck starter, etc to work out (I think, still haven't gotten this far yet..)


Motor Mounts  

Mounts were purchased from Northwest off road, they look very nice and I am very happy with their construction.


Oil Filter    

The oil filter will hit the motor mount if used, therefore a remote filter is needed



I plan on using a Griffin aluminum radiator, I got a few choices on size and I haven't made up my mind (don't have the money now in other words). Check out that picture for all the wonderful clearance I have..



The starter is an early ford starter, the newer style ones are smaller but about $100 more. There are not too many ford starters just be sure it is made for the size flywheel that you get. I think it cost me about $30.



What does steering have to do with an engine conversion? Well firt there is the steering pump issue and then the clearance. So far the engine is hitting the steering box so I will be moving back a little and replacing the hose inlet with an elbox fitting to clear the steering pump. I was told the ford pump works off of volume and the toyota works off of pressure so I have no idea if I can just plug the for pump into the toyota box but I am going to try.


Using a ford and wanting a manual somewhat limited me but I chose to go with a NP435 which has a first gear almost 2x as low as the toyota so I will be crawling a lot slower even with higher axle gears!


Transfer Case  

The Marlin Dual setup that I have been running has never let me down so I am sticking with it, only I will be upgrading it to the 23 spline (same as a dana 300) shafts.



The 5.0 wiring harness is a complete unit and only plugs into 5 wires, once again not quite there yet..

Cost Breakdown for the 5.0 conversion
Sold my engine: 84 block with 83 machined head. CA legal Weber 32/36 carburator with K&N air filter in chrome housing, CA legal Doug Thorley header, coil, ignitor, all smog and vacuum parts, stock air cleaner housing with K&N air filter, centerforce 2 clutch, radiator, everything related to the engine
+ $700
Bought a complete 88 Mustang GT with HO 5.0 engine. I plan to part out many of the parts. Car is in working order, with all power accesories, straght panels, good glass, allow wheels, auto tranny, etc. Came with a manual that covers wiring and vacuum that will come in handy.
- $750
NP435 Transmission Traded Mustang Parts
NWOR engine mounts $128 + tax and shipping -
AA NP435 to toy 23 spline adapter $565 (all the $$ came from selling Mustang parts so actually 0) -
Early cast truck bellhousing, this was made for a manual clutch linkage so brackets will neet to be made to use the hydraulic goods, hoping to keep the stock toyota hydraulic slave cylinder if the throw will work.. $50 (from mustang parts believe it or not) -
- - -
Total +178 -


Guestimates for future costs
Custom Drivelines $600 (front and rear, long travel) -
Eletric Fan $175 for a Black Magic -
Phantom Series Autometer Gauges (speedometer, tach, oil,water, volts, and fuel) $400

Griffin Aluminum Radiotor $189
Ford Truck Flywheel (from the same or newer year truck 5.0, the balance HAS to be the same as the car!) $75 -
(disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing) $120 if I go stock, more otherwise.. -
Custom Exhaust $150, a complete guess I have no idea really.. -

Things not listed in the table that will probably come up are Oil Pan Clearance, Exhaust, Cooling, Fuel System, Wiring , Throttle Linkage, Cruise Control, Air Conditioning. From the looks of it I am going to have to ditch the a/c - just not enough room!

Some things that I did not list are the engine stand, engine gaskets, ,


Related Links

Advanced Adapters

Griffin Radiators

Northwest Off Road

Jack Rice's Vortec/NV4500 conversion