Start by removing the 6 small bolts that hold the manual lockout cap on. They may be allen head or Torx bits, depending on brand / age.

Just look at that tired, beat up hub cap. I will not be sad to see the end of hassling with these things. The Warn drive flange caps stick out far less from the end of the hub.

Once you have the cap off, remove the 2 snap rings - one on the stub axle, and one just inside the hub.

I find the "2 screwdriver" method the best to lever out the big snap ring just inside the hub. Some patience is required. The small snap ring in the end of the stub shaft can be removed with a screwdriver, or with snap ring pliers if it is the type with the holes for the pliers

Once the snap rings are out, you can remove the body of the manual lockout hub. If it is stubborn (as most will be), you can easily fabricate a hub removal tool. I used a scrap piece of 1" strap, drilled to take 2 of the hub cap screws, and a big chisel behind it. To use it, just screw 2 screws back into the hub through the tool, then put a bar or chisel behind it and yank out the hub.

An interesting note, if you drill the holes in the scrap for 2 adjacent holes in a D60 hub, it will also work for D44 hubs, 3 holes apart.

Once you have the locking hub removed, the hub will look like this. Bend the little tabs on the spindle lock-washer outwards so the outer spindle lock nut can be removed.

The proper way to remove and install the spindle nuts is to use the proper 6-slot socket. of course, if you're a high-tech redneck like me, you can bang them out with a hammer and screwdriver!

Note - there are a huge number of different lock washer and spindle nut arrangements out there. Some are 6 slot as shown some are 4 slot, some are a large hex head and some are a special rounded hex head. Also, some lock washers use tabs as shown, and some have holes that index onto little "tits" on the spindle nuts. You will have to adapt, improvise, overcome.

The final step is simply to grab the shafts, and gently slide them from the housing.

Be careful as you remove them from the housing, so as to avoid damaging the inner axle seals

When you are all done, you'll have the old axles removed, and ready to be replaced.

But first, let's compare the old with the new, to make sure we're not just replacing these parts because it's the latest cool thing to do, but because there's a good reason.