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No sense in installing those
shiny new shafts with a bunch of old, rotted out seals and rusty bearings.
I purchased 2 spindle seal
and bearing kits locally. They can be a bit of a bear to find, so if you're
reading this Greg, it might be an idea to offer them as an add-on to the
35 spline kits.
I for one highly recommend
using all new bearings and seals, especially while you have everything
apart. |
 |
Here is an exploded diagram
and part numbers for the seals and bearings
| Diagram
# |
Description |
Dana
Spicer # |
Timken
# |
GM
# |
Ford
# |
| 56 |
Stone Guard |
37308 |
|
|
|
| 57 |
Inner
Spindle seal |
620062 |
710044 |
14012967 |
D8TZ1175C |
| 58 |
Thrust washer |
|
|
|
|
| 59 |
Outer
spindle seal |
37311 |
710045 |
462811 |
D8TZ1175A |
| 60 |
Spindle
needle bearing |
620063 |
B2414 |
1400967 |
D8TZ3123A |
| 57,
58, 59, and 60 |
Spindle
seal and bearing kit |
700014 |
SBK3 |
14009626 |
|
|
 |
I use a small aluminum bearing/seal
driver and a BFH to install the new "Torrington" needle bearing
into the back side of the spindle.
Don't ask how I got the old
ones out - it was an embarrassing, frustrating, and altogether not very
technical mixture of heat, blunt objects, brute force and cussing. - in
other words - nothing at all you could learn from! |
 |
The metal "dust shields"
or "stone guards" or "slingers" are not included in
the spindle kit (but everything else is), so they have to be removed from
the old stub shafts and reused.
Alternatively you can order
new ones - the Spicer part number is 37308 (for GM and Dodge), and I expect
the Ford are exactly the same. |
 |
Grease the new stub shaft liberally |
 |
Tap the stone guard into place
|
 |
Then place the inner spindle
seal on with the lip facing out. |
 |
Next place the thrust washer
on with the "chamfer" facing in (or the perfectly flat side facing
out). |
 |
And finally, place the outer
spindle seal on with the lip facing in. |
 |
Then grease everything liberally,
ready to go into the back of the spindle. |
These two pictures
clearly show the order and orientation of the seals and washer.
Once you have the stub shafts
all geared up, it's time to assemble the inner and stub shafts with the
new u-joints.
|
 |
You will
need a reasonably clean workspace, a grease gun, a large hammer, a large
socket, and a small standard screwdriver. |
 |
First, remove all the bearing
caps from the trunnions of the cross. With the new Spicer Life Series
u-joints, the seals are so good you may have to use pliers to remove the
caps - they are extremely hard to remove by hand.
Place a moderate amount of
grease in each cap. Do not go overboard, as excess grease in the cap during
assembly will cause excessive hydraulic force and make assembling the
u-joint very difficult. I just put a good dab in the cap then wipe it
around the needle bearings with a finger. the joint will be fully greased
after assembly. |
 |
Place the cross in the bores
of the yoke of the stub shaft, with the grease nipple hole facing in (towards
the inner shaft) |
 |
Raise the trunnion up in the
bore and place a bearing cap on it |
 |
Drive the cap into the bore
with a hammer.... |
 |
...until the groove in the cap
for the snap ring is visible inside the yoke. |
 |
Tap the snap ring into place |
 |
Raise the opposite trunnion
up in it's yoke bore |
 |
Place its bearing cap on |
 |
Then place the yoke, with the
bearing cap that already has its snap ring installed, on a large socket
whose ID is larger than the OD of the bearing cap... |
 |
...and tap the other bearing
cap into its bore until the snap ring can be inserted
With both snap rings installed,
rotate the cross and check for binding. |
 |
If the joint is tight, you can
attempt to relieve pressure by striking the ear of the yoke sharply. If
this fails to allow the joint to rotate firmly (not sloppily) but without
binding or over-tightness, you will have to disassemble and inspect. It
is likely that one of the caps may have a toppled needle bearing. |
 |
Place the stub shaft with
u-joint installed into the inner shaft yoke so that one of the trunnions
protrudes through the top of the bore.
Then essentially repeat the
entire procedure as above to install the other 2 bearing caps |
 |
Here the last bearing cap is
about to be installed |
 |
Be careful when installing
the snap rings that they are straight and properly seated in the groove,
otherwise you will bend one, like I did here, as you drive on the opposite
bearing cap. Doh!
When all the caps are on and
clips installed, install the grease nipple, the grease the joint until
fresh grease purges from all 4 seals. Then do a final check for any binding
in the u-joint. |