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Remove the rear output shift
fork set screw with an Allen wrench. |
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Rotate the rear shift rod 1/4
turn to free it from the shift interlock pill (this is the capsule shaped
pill that rests between the 2 rods, preventing the stock case from being
shifted into 2 different ratios front and rear.) Then, grasp the rear shift
rod cap at the rear of the case with pliers, and twist / pull it free (it
is just a press fit). Then take a brass or other soft punch and drive
the rear shift rod out of the case from the rear. As you drive it
out, catch the detent spring and ball as they come out of their housing. |
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Removed shift rod and poppet
ball. Note on the shift rod, from left to right, you see the shift
fork set screw detent, followed by the three gear selection detents.
The interlock detent is not visible in this shot. |
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With the shift rod removed,
remove the shift fork from the case, noting its orientation for installation. |
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Next, remove the front output
housing from the case, catching the front shift rod poppet ball and spring
as you do so. If you look at the shift rod holes in the housing from
the rear (the face that mates to the case) you can see the interlock pill
where it sits in the housing between the shift rods (red arrow). You
may have to tilt the housing side to side so it is visible through the shift
rod holes. |
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You are now left with just the
front shift rod protruding. |
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Remove the front output shaft
bearing cap from the rear of the case. |
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Be careful not to lose or damage
the delicate shims between the bearing cap and the case (blue arrow). |
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Rear of front output shaft,
under bearing cap. |
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You should now be at this stage
here. |
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Using a hammer and brass or
wooden drift, strike the front of the front output shaft and drive the front
output shaft towards the rear of the case, then remove the bearing cup (race)
from the cone (bearing). |
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You should now have a transfer
case that looks like this |
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Remove the front output shaft
rear bearing from the shaft using a bearing separator and harmonic-balancer
type puller. |
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Now comes the only slightly
tricky part of the whole disassembly. You have to remove the front
bearing from the front output shaft. I used a small bearing separator
to get behind the bearing, inside the case. I then used 2 small c-clamps
to hold the bearing separator against the front of the case... |
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... and then used a brass drift
to drive the output shaft back through the case , separating the bearing
from the shaft. |
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The shaft can then be removed
through the rear of the case. |
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Detail of the removed front
output shaft. |
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Once the shaft is removed, you
can remove the front output gear and front sliding gear from the case. |
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Shaft in the background,
foreground showing from left to right (rear of case to front)
- Front sliding gear
- Front output gear
- Washer
- front bearing
|
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Components of front output shaft
assembly in the order in which they are on the shaft when assembled. |
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Case now looks like this |
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Remove front shift rod set screw |
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Pull shift rod from case, and
disengage the front shift fork from the shift rod |
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Detail of shift rod removed
from case, with shift fork reinstalled. To the left of the shift fork
is the detent into which the set screw must index on assembly. |
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The final step of tear-down
is to remove the main drive gear (input gear) from whatever it is attached
to - in my case my doubler adapter. I used an impact wrench to break
the nut loose... |
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... and then a gear / bearing
puller to separate the gear from the shaft. |
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Once it is loose, remove the
main drive gear from the shaft. |