4-bolt Saginaw p/s box [late 60`s to late 70`s GM
cars] p/s pump off same car would be good You may
be able to use brackets off donor car if you are running
a small block Chevy motor, if not you will have to
make your own. You can use the Saginaw pitman arm
if you make a custom drag link that uses the correct
tie rod end for the pitman arm, or you can get a special
pitman arm from Advance Adapters for around $100.
You will need two u-joints. One on the box, and one
on the steering column. The spud shaft offered from
AA is not necessary. But can be purchased for around
$100. You can get the u-joints from AA. Or you can
purchase these from Napa for about half the price
of AA. If you are installing a new steering column,
then you can use your old steering column shaft. You
will need it to connect from your box to your column.
Its 3/4 inch, which is the size u-joints you will
need. If you are using the original column, then you
will need to find a piece of 3/4 solid round stock
about 3.5 feet. You will also need a bearing
support for the column at the fire wall. You can get
this from AA for about $50-60 or from a bearing supply
Co. for about $20. You will need a hi-pressure p/s
line, which your local parts store should be
able to make for you for about $20-25. And of course
a fan belt, which its size will be unknown until the
conversion is completed. This conversion will
be done on a 74 FJ40 with a stock 6 motor.
are the part #s for the little steering u-joints :
part # 1512- 3/4" bore yoke About $15
part # 338- u-joint About $8
part # 10-4-621-SX (Spicer 3/4" yoke) same as NAPA,
only cost more.
part # 10-4-551-SX (Spicer 3/4" splined for GM p/s
box) About $22 AFCO 3/4" bore complete u-joint. This
is a small bad ass little u-joint. Used for custom
steering on race cars and such. Perfect for tight
places. Here is the part number for the non splined
u-joint: 30303. Note: this can be purchased through
Tognotties or other high performance shops. The cost
is $60.99 for both splined and non- splined. By the
way, AFCO is the name of the manufacture.
Remove front bumper and all original steering. You
might want to remove the radiator.
This picture shows the approx. area to cut out. You
must also cut part of the frame bumper mount off.
This is so you can fully weld the p/s plate
to the frame.
Shown here is the plate tack welded to the frame for
fitting up the box. There are a few ways to
make the plate, and a lot of different ways to mount
the box, this just happens to be the way I do it,
and I feel is the strongest and most secure way to
do it. You should use 1/4-3/8 plate for your
mounting plate. I recommend making and drilling the
plate before you get started on the project.
This is the stock box. Remove the 4 bolts from the
box to the bracket, then grind or torch the rivets
that hold the bracket to the frame off. Remove the
bracket. If you are going to use the stock column
off a 74 or newer, then cut the shaft about 3 inches
from the fire wall, that's about half way from the
firewall and the steering box rag joint. If you are
using a GM tilt wheel then just take everything out.
If you are doing this conversion on a pre 74, and
are using a GM tilt column, then cut the steering
shaft right at the box and you can use it for your
new steering shaft going from your Saginaw box to
your new column. If you are using the stock pre 74
steering column, then just cut it about 3 inches from
the fire wall, as seen here.
Here is the Saginaw box mounted to the plate which
is fully welded to the frame. Make sure before
you weld the plate, that when the box is mounted that
the u-joint fully clears the inside of the frame when
it is turned. This will be a tight fit if your not
using a spud shaft. Also, note the spacers welded
onto the plate behind the box, these are required
to mount the box level. Washers shouldn't be an option
if your concern is strength and safety.
Shown here is the u-joint attached to the steering
column. The top of the u-joint is in place by a key
way, and the bottom fully welded to the shaft. At
the steering box end, the u-joint is splined at the
box and, and fully welded at the other end. This way
you can remove the shaft for u-joint replacement.
This shows just how close the shaft is to the frame.
Its close! Don't worry this is normal. You should
have a 1/4-1/2 of clearance. It also shows the
power steering pump mounted to the driver side of
the engine. To do this, you must relocate the alternator
to the other side of the motor. You will have
to make your own brackets for the pump and alternator.
Here is another pic of the pump mounted to the engine.
Notice how close the pulley is to the fan blade. This
one clears with no problems. However, if you are doing
this conversion on an older Cruiser with a metal fan
blade then you might have to purchase a fan spacer
about 1\2 inch.
Another angle of the alternator. You can mount this
a few different ways. I mount them up high for
deep water crossings, and easy adjustments, and also
a less chance of an oil leak destroying it.
Here are some pics of the completed conversion. I
hope that this article can assist you in your power
steering conversion. If anyone has any questions or
comments please feel free to e-mail me at : email@example.com
Coming soon: complete spring over, shackle reversal
conversion on a 71 FJ40