Land Cruiser
Saginaw Power Steering Conversion

Parts list:
4-bolt Saginaw p/s box [late 60`s to late 70`s GM cars] p/s pump off same car would be good You may be able to use brackets off donor car if you are running a small block Chevy motor, if not you will have to make your own. You can use the Saginaw pitman arm if you make a custom drag link that uses the correct tie rod end for the pitman arm, or you can get a special pitman arm from Advance Adapters for around $100. You will need two u-joints. One on the box, and one on the steering column. The spud shaft offered from AA is not necessary. But can be purchased for around $100. You can get the u-joints from AA. Or you can purchase these from Napa for about half the price of AA. If you are installing a new steering column, then you can use your old steering column shaft. You will need it to connect from your box to your column. Its 3/4 inch, which is the size u-joints you will need. If you are using the original column, then you will need to find a piece of 3/4 solid round stock about 3.5 feet. You will  also need a bearing support for the column at the fire wall. You can get this from AA for about $50-60 or from a bearing supply Co. for about $20. You will need a hi-pressure p/s line, which your  local parts store should be able to make for you for about $20-25. And of course a fan belt, which its size will be unknown until the conversion is completed.  This conversion will be done on a 74 FJ40 with a  stock 6 motor.

 

Update 12/15/99:

Here are the part #s for the little steering u-joints :

1. NAPA part # 1512- 3/4" bore yoke About $15

2. NAPA part # 338- u-joint About $8

3. spicer part # 10-4-621-SX (Spicer 3/4" yoke) same as NAPA, only cost more.

4. Spicer part # 10-4-551-SX (Spicer 3/4" splined for GM p/s box) About $22 AFCO 3/4" bore complete u-joint. This is a small bad ass little u-joint. Used for custom steering on race cars and such. Perfect for tight places. Here is the part number for the non splined u-joint: 30303. Note: this can be purchased through Tognotties or other high performance shops. The cost is $60.99 for both splined and non- splined. By the way, AFCO is the name of the manufacture.



Remove front bumper and all original steering. You might want to  remove the radiator.



This picture shows the approx. area to cut out. You must also cut part of the frame bumper mount off. This is so you can fully weld  the p/s plate to the frame.



Shown here is the plate tack welded to the frame for fitting up  the box. There are a few ways to make the plate, and a lot of different ways to mount the box, this just happens to be the way I do it, and I feel is the strongest and most secure way to do it. You should use 1/4-3/8 plate for  your mounting plate. I recommend making and drilling the plate before you get started on the project.



This is the stock box. Remove the 4 bolts from the box to the bracket, then grind or torch the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame off. Remove the bracket. If you are going to use the stock column off a 74 or newer, then cut the shaft about 3 inches from the fire wall, that's about half way from the firewall and the steering box rag joint. If you are using a GM tilt wheel then just take everything out. If you are doing this conversion on a pre 74, and are using a GM tilt column, then cut the steering shaft right at the box and you can use it for your new steering shaft going from your Saginaw box to your new column. If you are using the stock pre 74 steering column, then just cut it about 3 inches from the fire wall, as seen here.



Here is the Saginaw box mounted to the plate which is fully welded to the  frame. Make sure before you weld the plate, that when the box is mounted that the u-joint fully clears the inside of the frame when it is turned. This will be a tight fit if your not using a spud shaft. Also, note the  spacers welded onto the plate behind the box, these are required to mount the box level. Washers shouldn't be an option if your concern is strength and safety.



Shown here is the u-joint attached to the steering column. The top of the u-joint is in place by a key way, and the bottom fully welded to the shaft. At the steering box end, the u-joint is splined at the box and, and fully welded at the other end. This way you can remove the shaft for u-joint  replacement.



This shows just how close the shaft is to the frame. Its close! Don't worry this is normal. You should have a 1/4-1/2 of clearance. It also shows the  power steering pump mounted to the driver side of the engine. To do this, you must relocate the alternator to the other side of the motor. You will  have to make your own brackets for the pump and alternator.



Here is another pic of the pump mounted to the engine. Notice how close the pulley is to the fan blade. This one clears with no problems. However, if you are doing this conversion on an older Cruiser with a metal fan blade then you might have to purchase a fan spacer about 1\2 inch.



Another angle of the alternator. You can mount this a few different ways. I  mount them up high for deep water crossings, and easy adjustments, and also a less chance of an oil leak destroying it.



Here are some pics of the completed conversion. I hope that this article can assist you in your power steering conversion. If anyone has any questions or comments please feel free to e-mail me at : jefffretwell@hotmail.com Coming soon: complete spring over, shackle reversal conversion on a 71 FJ40
 


 

 

 

This story was written and compiled by Jeff Fretwell, club President. You may reach him via email, at jeff@pirate4x4.com

 

©1999 Pirate4x4.Com
Unauthorized duplication will result
in Scott driving over your hood!