1. Main leaf spring (I used a toyota main, left from my mazda spring swap)
2. 4 u-bolts long enough to fit around the frame and the 2x2 block with nuts,the mounting plate, and bump stop (the passenger side front u-bolts assembly from a early 4wd toyota worked great for me)
3. 4 3/8" allen head bolts
4. Drill bit and tap to thread in the allen head bolts
5. 2" square reciever tube, cut in half
6. Socket and open end set for removal and installation of bolts

The u-bolts, bumpstops, and spring plates	The 2"x2" square reciever tube

The swap was actually very easy, the hardest part being locating the spring in place which was done with the allen head bolts. The first step was to bolt the spring into the existing stock spring mount upside down (if you did not do the mazda swap you will not have this). The u-bolt setup is shown to find the approzimate location for later use, it will be removed to locate the spring.

Next some strong clamps were used to keep the spring tight to the frame.

The exhaust had to be cut short in order to clear the new leaf spring	This picture shows how the shackle angle is improved a little by moving the mounting point forward	Here the spring is clamped to the frame in order to drill the center pin hole

After the spring was aligned perfectly along the frame with the existing moung a hole was drilled through the spring and into the frame just large enough for the allen threaded section to fit through. You could drill a hole big enough for the head in the frame and bold a small allen onto the spring if you do not want to use the block, this would be much easier. Next I drilled a hole smaller than the threads of the bolts into the 2x2 reciever block that I cut in half. I then tapped the hole and threaded a bolt long enough to stick through the leaf and into the frame. A hole large enough to fit an allen wrench into was made on the other side of the block. Both of these holes were approximately 1.5" from the end of the tube in order for the tube to sit flat on the frame. Next a hole was drilled and tapped on the lower side of the block and a small allen head bolt was threaded in to hold the bump stop in place. the entire assembly was then bolted to the frame and torqued down. At this point the clamps were removed and the rear hanger was cut off of the frame. That is all there is to it! If you have any question or would like to tell me how you did it so that I can include it in the Buggy Leaf tech article please email me at webmaster@RiverCityRockCrawlers.com.

Stay tuned for updates when I actually get to test it on the trail! Amazingly I can not even notice it on the road on my daily commute to work. There is no twisting action since the other end of the leaf is bolted securely in a hanger and there is a center pin in the middle of the leaf.