is one modification that is relatively inexpensive and went
hand in hand with the mazda spring swap. Although this method
was tailored for my mazda springs it could easily be modified
for any vehicle.
Main leaf spring (I used a toyota main,
left from my mazda spring swap)
u-bolts long enough to fit around the frame and the 2x2
block with nuts,the mounting plate, and bump stop (the passenger
side front u-bolts assembly from a early 4wd toyota worked
great for me)
3/8" allen head bolts
bit and tap to thread in the allen head bolts
- 2" square reciever tube, cut in half
and open end set for removal and installation of bolts
u-bolts, bumpstops, and spring plates
2"x2" square reciever tube
swap was actually very easy, the hardest part being locating
the spring in place which was done with the allen head bolts.
The first step was to bolt the spring into the existing
stock spring mount upside down (if you did not do the mazda
swap you will not have this). The u-bolt setup is shown
to find the approzimate location for later use, it will
be removed to locate the spring.
some strong clamps were used to keep the spring tight to the
|The exhaust had to be cut short in order to clear the
new leaf spring
picture shows how the shackle angle is improved a little
by moving the mounting point forward
||Here the spring is clamped to the frame in order to
drill the center pin hole
the spring was aligned perfectly along the frame with the existing
moung a hole was drilled through the spring and into the frame
just large enough for the allen threaded section to fit through.
You could drill a hole big enough for the head in the frame
and bold a small allen onto the spring if you do not want to
use the block, this would be much easier. Next I drilled a hole
smaller than the threads of the bolts into the 2x2 reciever
block that I cut in half. I then tapped the hole and threaded
a bolt long enough to stick through the leaf and into the frame.
A hole large enough to fit an allen wrench into was made on
the other side of the block. Both of these holes were approximately
1.5" from the end of the tube in order for the tube to
sit flat on the frame. Next a hole was drilled and tapped on
the lower side of the block and a small allen head bolt was
threaded in to hold the bump stop in place. the entire assembly
was then bolted to the frame and torqued down. At this point
the clamps were removed and the rear hanger was cut off of the
frame. That is all there is to it! If you have any question
or would like to tell me how you did it so that I can include
it in the Buggy Leaf tech article please email me at webmaster@RiverCityRockCrawlers.com.
tuned for updates when I actually get to test it on the trail!
Amazingly I can not even notice it on the road on my daily commute
to work. There is no twisting action since the other end of
the leaf is bolted securely in a hanger and there is a center
pin in the middle of the leaf.