Let's do an official cage building inspiration thread. It's one of those items that we all need no matter what our diffs/tires/engine combo may be.
If you have a bad ass cage post up pics. Function and looks both are worth noting. First it's gotta be functional and second it won't hurt anyone's feelings if it looks sweet. :smokin:
Quick question... What guague thickness are you guys with the aluminum sheet roofs using? I am trying to design my new cage and will be building it over Christmas/New years and would love to get some skin on the thing so I can quit ripping fabric tops.
I kinda went over the top on mine and did 3/16". It is pretty light and I found at a "refurbish" place for a smokin deal. One thing, if you go that thick and are forming to some bends, it is a lot of work to bend it. Also, if you do not bolt it to every tube it goes over, you may find that you have some rattling. A couple strips of some rubber in between the cage and the plate will take care of that.
I think your the only one planning on getting stuck in someones way, and have a fun solution for them to get you out of the way. We definitely need some "after" pics of that push bar.
The seats are Mil-spec Mastercrafts. The sliders are attached to the seat frame and the seat frame is really stout on them. The brackets are 3/16" steel, and then I re-welded the bent over tabs. Seat frame prevents the brackets from moving side to side, and the 3/16" is plenty stout in the strong axis the way the seats are loading it. I made the brackets myself. Have a TM2x2 for stuff like that. The holes are 11" center to center, so not certain if they will work with other seat slider sets.
in BC where we live it is so tight on old grow over logging roads and quad trails often you are riding on the trees with your top. My Cherokee has this X0 cage, c/w a tree bark paint job
First of all this cage is not that strong. I could see that thing mushing all over in a bad roll
Secondly whats the point? So you could lift up the cage and remove the top? Just put the thing on the inside,,,,it doesn't take up that much room. Ill admit I dont wheel hard with the top on,,,,its to easy to mess up and I do get caught out in the rain without a top. Mybe I get it
It's overkill. From the other pictures as well as that one you can see what looks to be a well constructed interior cage. So this is purely top/body panel protection.
Sheesh! And I thought mine had a lot of notches and intersections. Is it going to have a good bit of head room over the inner A-B longitudinal bars? Reason I ask is my cage, to keep it low, I'm about the tallest person that can drive it without worrying about my head hitting the cage and I am about 6'0".
I also have some concerns about that bend at the bottom of the A-pillar. I know that in the last few cages I bent up for some friends that are building roundy round cars (Read 24 Hours of "Lemons") the rules required no reverse bends in the down legs of the A Pillars. Might as well shoot straight down through the flooor, I can't forsee it saving that much leg room.
Also, what are your plans for any internal B-Pillar bracing?
I know it's best to use DOM tubing and its a requirment for a lot of compititions but what is everyone using, I see alot in there that I can gaurentee are made from ERW tubing. DOM is really $$$ where I am, I know you can never put a price on safety but if your not planning on competing ERW should be just fine???
HREW is fine for most cages. Quality HREW does not have seam issues or deform when bending mechanically, but it does dent and deform easier than DOM. If you are going to roll often then you will be replacing a HREW cage more often than a DOM cage of similar structure.
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