Got the driver's seat mounts finished last night.
I needed to move the seat about 5" forward, and down as much as I could to a) make my legs reach the pedals easier and b) keep my noggin inside the cage.
Solution was to remove the trick-tabs holding the seat on, then drill through the seat mounting cage, sleeve, and weld.
I've done prettier welds before..
For the front, I cheated. Some angle welded to the leading edge will do the job just fine.
While I was fooling around in the shop.. I checked the tie-rod-to-oil-pan clearance at full left/right and straight ahead.
The tie-rod either just clears, or not-quite-clears at rest, going straight ahead. Rear of tie-rod is even with front of oil pan. Top of tie-rod is even with bottom of pan.
At full right/left, the front of the tie-rod is about flush with the front of the pan.
Tie-rod is 1.25" OD, so the overall change is 1.25" from "dead ahead" to "full right"
Steering arm appears to be 7" (or 8?) from king pin to TRE. I would need to come forward more than 1", at least 1.5, maybe 2", to keep the tie-rod clear
of the pan when turned.
Bringing the tie-rod forward makes the tie-rod vs pitman worse, since the pitman arm slopes down.
I need to go forward 4-5" to clear the draglink (tie-rod in front, draglink behind), and by then I'm pretty sure I'll be into the springs, not to mention I'd need to cant the high-steer arms inboard to clear the tires.
I have room for 4" of up-travel before the D60 pig hits the pan.
I have 2.5" of up-travel available on the shocks at-rest.
I have less before I hit the pitman arm (IIRC 1"?)
So.. I'm not going to get more than 4".
I should probably settle for 2.5" and leave the shocks alone for now.
But what I have right now is 0" to the oil pan. I'd like *some* uptravel.
I can't go behind the axle - the oil pan hangs down further, plus the whole diff and driveshaft thing. (Though maybe a front-sump pan like R290 would help that out)
Robert suggested notching the oil pan, and maybe I can get 1" of up-travel if I can cut 1"x1.5" out of the pan (1 up, 1.5 back).
I could do that right now to get to 1" of uptravel (making the oil pan and pitman arm even as far as "what hits first").
A 1" spacer and flipping the arms, bringing the tie-rod in from underneath, would net me about 1.25" of additional up-travel at the oil pan AND pitman arm.
Cut n' weld the oil pan, raise the steering arms and then flip them, and I could be in the neighborhood of 2+" of up-travel. That's better than 0, and a good place to get to without too much effort (stopping short of linking the front and getting to that whole 4" of up-travel I have before the diff hits the pan)
So, Robert, if you still have that notched pan around and you want to send it over with that 196 to build, that would be appreciated.
If not, I'll get a pan cleaned and start checking clearances for the chop.