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1949 Willys Wagon Build

322K views 756 replies 88 participants last post by  CJ3BL 
#1 · (Edited)


The Willys Jeep Station Wagon was introduced in 1946 as just the 463 model, powered by the L-134 Go-Devil flathead four cylinder. The 663 model, powered by the L-148 Lightning straight six, was brought in for 1948. Four-wheel drive became an option in 1949. This wagon is a 4x463 SW one of 4472 produced in that year.

Originally owned a 1955 wagon in high school and updated the stock 226 t-90 and dana18 with warn OD to a chevy 283 T400 with the AA kit for the dana 18. I have 25+ years experience around Willys projects and in no way am I an expert but I do have opinions.

Since then my project ebbed and flowed into what you will see in the following threads. As you all can probably relate to the hang time a full frame up restoration can take, this one is no exception.

My intentions for the build are one low COG and two keep it a sleeper as much as possible. Not a purist by any stretch, I just love clean factory lines and strived to keep them intact. There are also many subtle upgrades to the body to address water and air entering as these wagons constantly leaked exhaust fumes into the cabin and were musty smelling. I always dreaded getting in my wagon in the cold early morning because it took 20 minutes to defog the windows. This was due to all the gaps in the hinges, uneven body panels, cowl vent, sliding window and poorly designed weatherstripping.

I decided to mix and match my 1949 and early 50's bodies to get the best of both worlds of sleeper/function. I prefer the early 50's grill/fenders and the last year of the round wheel well 1949. The project utilized two bodies to create 1 in order to fit the 404's and 37' ~ 40" treads. I started by cutting the body in half and widening 10" and stretching the doors 4".

Functionally I'm running an old school 383 stroker, Accel DFI, Hogans sheetmetal manifold, H1 4L80E 242AMG, and 404 axles. More on this later.

There are many lessons I have learned working in this industry and there is a wealth of knowledge on this site and I salute my fellow craftsmen, journeymen and shop owners for their visual and mechanical contributions.


God Bless America!
 
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#637 ·
The cage came out great! Arrived sleep deprived and sick as a dog to operate JRs wah pedal while he was finalizing the welds on the cage with the torch :D

The parameters for the cage were keeping the cage as hidden as possible and be functional. This meant lining up the tube of the a b c pillars as best as possible to not obstruct the sight line to the garnish mouldings. The upper part of the cage will be hidden under the head liner and will post some detailed examples.

The pre bumper is an additional little separation in case I need to push something but also to be the furthest point of the bumper in the event of throttlitis maximus :homer:
 
#639 ·
Tom and I were able to put together a "Meet and Greet." The Wagon build is intended to be a "Take no Prisoners" build. From suspension clips, to drivetrain clips, and now the bodywork. And bodywork is probably not the best word as the details behind the skin will be amazing. It would be really interesting to hear Tom and JR together. Building on each others ideas and visions.

This is almost a labor of love, as it could burn out both striving for awesome.

Glad the fun is continuing. We will have a lot to live up to when following in these footsteps.
 
#648 · (Edited)
Honestly I'm new to the whole CAN-bus language but seems similar to ODBII and its something Chris recommended as the blue sea switch was originally in the mix before this came out. The F88 ecu/pdu/pcs shifter are all CAN-bus and looking at the spec sheet it will diagnose anything in the system and if an over voltage event were to occur gets reported on the D4 display in the gauge cluster or an idiot light.

It's not like I'll be able to plug a scanner into this thing other than a laptop to tune or diagnose so it seems worth the investment in my rolling 401 :homer:

From the spec sheet.
CAN-bus messaging for logging, diagnostics and safetyReason for shut down (internal or external switch, over current, over temperature, CAN command to shut down etc)Current passing through Master RelayVoltage at Master RelayVoltage at BatteryShut down command for other devices on CAN.
 
#649 · (Edited)
I also asked that KISS question as I am not "planning" on any CanBus

I was going to bring a big wire into the dash for an amp meter and the Blue Sea switch with main and alternator wire. Autometer made me a special ammeter but only 100 amps in a 2 5/8". Well that seems too little now and why I am going with the ring around the alternator wire style (Cobalt series digital only in AutoM. +/- 200amps) Real race cars have used a mechanical rod to open and close these mechanical switches "outside" for decades.

Here is a more "standard solid state approved switch." Cartek. It breaks the negative side of the battery plus effectively killing the fuel pump, ECM, and ignition from the alternator. A light flashes disconnect codes. Cautions were disconnect for any chassis welding and disconnect battery for extended non-use. $400ish That right there is probably reasoning for "old school."


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11466
 

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#650 ·
Ben,

Thanks for the MSEL video! Not sure if you knew the whole ECU/PDU the wagon is running integrates this isolator quite nicely. I totally agree with the KISS principle however I'm way beyond that now as there isn't even a fuse box or relays in this system :homer:



Similar to the microprocessors I design by day this screen shot from Chris' work station show the configuration of logic functions/delays for wiring up a trophy truck chassis. This eliminates relays fuses and simplifies the chassis wiring. For example instead of using a PWM (pulse width modulator) controller for a cooling fan that function is created using these logic functions and programmed into the PDU.

https://www.analog.com/en/analog-dialogue/articles/how-to-control-fan-speed.html

https://wiki.analog.com/university/courses/electronics/electronics-lab-pulse-width-modulation

This is what the PDU offers
The PDU32 sets an extremely high level of precision power management control. The micro processor controlled unit incorporates power switching, monitoring and fusing increasing flexibility, repeatability and reliability. This powerful unit allows advanced control algorithms but yet easy to calibrate for the end user.

Microprocessor controlled power switching, monitoring and fusing unit. Fully configurable input to output schematic mapping with latch, flash, and logic functions. Fully configurable inrush current, high current and low current trips. Control and diagnostic communication with ecus, data logging or telemetry equipment. Current monitoring on all outputs available on data stream or pc.



From Carteks description of their new Battery ISO switch which is similar to the MSEL.

Solid State means no moving parts, all power switching is fully electronic.

Early types of electrical isolation were by large mechanical master-switches while more modern systems have utilised electro-mechanical solenoids. Both of these types of systems contain mechanical electrical contacts which, due to the combination of high electrical current and the shocks and vibration of the race car environment, sparking between the contacts occurs which results in contact erosion and eventual unreliability.

Our Solid State Battery Isolators are also filled with a hard setting resin which prevents any ingress of dust, dirt or water therefore further increasing their strength and reliability.

https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery-isolators/
 
#652 · (Edited)
Ben,

Thanks for the MSEL video! Not sure if you knew the whole ECU/PDU the wagon is running integrates this isolator quite nicely. I totally agree with the KISS principle however I'm way beyond that now as there isn't even a fuse box or relays in this system :homer:

Tom: You are dragging us in!!! I guess I am close to a knuckle dragger also. But so are my trail buddies that have to help me diagnose an electrical issue. Why I thought the Cartec unit was appropriate to most of us on a mild level. It "self diagnosed" and could be understood with common sense.

When Throttle Body FI first came out in aftermarket, I went with it but I always had the "Holly in the box." On later purchases, I ordered the Throttle body kit but with extra sensors and computer. Getting tow-strapped out of some of our camping and wheeling spots is NOT fun for the tow-er or tow-ee.

But I get the new tech. If not already we will be locked into it in the next few years. I just wish getting the part in the boondocks was just as easy to understand and diagnose. (I even carry a spare OEM computer in the LJ... I just don't want to be that guy.)

On that OEM subject my sons Silverado was smoking alternator wires randomly. We tried everything to drop the 14 volts and 30-40 amps. Last resort was a new computer...or disconnecting the alternator from the system and letting it do the regulation (The alternator already had it installed but the computer bypassed the regulation) Clip clip. Problem solved. But I can also say that I have had the old points regulators fail and full field the alternator. On the Rubicon we ran the excite wire thru a switch on the dash board. I would crawl for 20 minutes and then charge for 5. Worked and got us into and out of camp.

I can see our new tool kits will contain a mini laptop. Don't we all carry a code scan tool and schematics today???.. In the SBC flatty. I still carry points and a condenser. LOL

Cool stuff. I was thinking Motec on the new build. So stepping into the oven also.

Does JR get to think thru the wiring? (Getting your hand in the fire is how we learn sometimes)
 
#653 ·
Ben, LR would be my choice.



Horschels ultra 4 from '18. Chris designed the system and sent it to him and raced it in Glen Helen the following weekend. Heard it was a beast. Little knuckle dragging going on under the dash :laughing:

More background on LR

https://www.design-reuse.com/news/6...t-multiple-race-car-engine-control-units.html

Flash-based FPGA lets race engine controller lead the pack - 22 September 2004 - ASIC Design Services - Dataweek

If you are looking into a Holley system a good friend in Shingle Springs is a Holley rep Dave at Autotrend EFI.

Autotrend EFI
 
#655 · (Edited)
Ben, LR would be my choice.

Horschels ultra 4 from '18. Chris designed the system and sent it to him and raced it in Glen Helen the following weekend. Heard it was a beast. Little knuckle dragging going on under the dash :laughing:

More background on LR

https://www.design-reuse.com/news/6...t-multiple-race-car-engine-control-units.html

[/url]
OH God: LR is 2 miles from me. Maybe we should plan a visit. Horschel is a top 10 threat in Ultra4 for sure. That master is also a perfect place as the batteries are in the front (rear engine), protected within the chassis, and away from the electronics.There would still be the two big starter and alternator wires traveling along the chassis. I believe your electronic master switch would sense problems in those and shut down before smoke.

BDKw1...KISS... Correct, but can't we dream? We think nothing of taking current OEMS to Baja. Well many do.... But rarely alone.

I wasn't contemplating sending this to you Tom. JR probably doesn't need any more "ideas." You are destroying my vision also. More tech here than we deserve. Total involvement. A long discussion with passion, but how you guys think. $6mm ea.

 
#656 · (Edited)


Getting ready for paint...These are the products for all the tasks involved in the prep for the wheel tubs and surface prep.

Since the PPG Red Oxide DP74 sat for awhile spot treatment was required where some surface rust came back (primer is porous), kick panels and other misc channels that were missed I'll be spraying with a wand. Since the DP74 doesn't sand well it needs to be de-glossed to allow another primer to bond to it.

1. LORD 108b body panel adhesive and is GM/Chrysler approved
2. LORD 122EZ self leveling seam sealer for the drip rails or rain gutters.
3. LORD 123EZ seam sealer.

Wheel tubs: The tubs were originally tack welded in and the seams allowed water through over the years. The LORD 108b has to be applied to bare metal and completely seals off any air or moisture to allow rust back in.

There will be additional seam sealers and undercoating done. Once the panel and tub are fused together there is no way to insure paint coverage in between so I trial fitted the tub to the inside body panels to mask off paint and adhesive areas.

The adhesive is so strong it bonded the clamp pads to the sheet metal! Everything was easy to clean up with automotive paint grade acetone.



Master series silver "slim" 2 coats brushed on



Master series Ag111: 1 coat brushed on



Once the panel and tub are fused together there is no way to insure paint coverage.

 
#657 ·
The 242 AMG transfer case had a defect where the cooling loop around the input shaft cracks and leaks transmission fluid into the transfer case. Supposedly this case had the fix so just in case to reduce transmission, transfer case, and rotor temps sprayed them with Techlines Thermal dispersant.





 
#660 ·
Tales from the paint crypt





Came up with a clever way to spray on a rack using magnetic hooks on the wagon in the grommets of tarp for a paint skirt to minimize overspray and aluminum foil wrapped around the lifts and Jack stand.



Tail gait prevention: soaked tailgates in metal prep then sprayed slim and ag111 in every orifce of the tailgates. After each step blow the orifices so the gases and mist bubble through the seams and dry.



Undercarriage prep: One leg in grave garage





Shultz! Gun: $20 gun with in panel tip to treat hat channels and kick panels with Wurth stoneguard sound deadening heat blocking and rust prevention
 
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