Time to take care of all the little stuff that consumes more time than the main chassis but doesn't make the car look much different. The computer, fuse panel, voltage regulator and air box all mounted to the stock plastic and needed to be remounted.
I recycled the small section of plastic that housed the computer and turned it around so the backside now has the door to give it some splash resistance. With a new rivet nut driver I used a couple 6mm nut rivets in the stock c channel and added a side tab for stability. Computer re-mounted.
Mounting options for the fuse block and voltage regulator were kinda limited without re-working the wiring harness so I made the best of it and mounted them where they are easier to access and make room for the new gas tank. The airbox was the easiest. A couple small tabs and recycling some of the button head torx screws has it mounted solid behind the rear aluminum firewall.
When I decided to make a larger gas tank, I needed to move the brake tee, reroute the lines behind the B pillar and move the starter relay behind to the small gusset on the back of the pillar. A couple more 6mm nut rivets made a nice assembly.
With those done I needed to mount a action packer bin for storage and create a tab off the bin mount for the coil pack. My new SWAG bender worked great to bend some flat into a C channel for a simple bolt in basket that can be removed for engine access.
Used the bender again on the tab for the coil pack to replicate the stock setup.
The last item I got mounted on the B pillar is the coolant reservoir. The shape of the stock bottle is a perfect fit next to the upper shock mount but I am debating if it can be below the top of the radiator to operate correctly. If anybody has experience with acceptable coolant reservoir locations, I am all ears. If it doesn't work, I'll need to move it or get a nicer looking one and mount it near the top of the cage which would be less than desirable.
The spare needed mounts for the Y strap hooks so I made some tube gussets at the less than ideal T intersection and a simple mount at the rear that keeps the hook flush and inline with the tire.
Another debate I have is the mount for the SuperTrapp, I made a simple steel clamp on mount that I know will resist vibration well but I also could make a small aluminum tab that welds to the muffler case and would look better but could crack if the engine mounts flex more than the muffler mount I have (I ordered a nicer T-bolt clamp to replace the regular hose clamp). I eliminated the monster bell coupler and recycled a bend from the stock exhaust to allow the SuperTrapp to slip on for a simple smooth flowing exhaust.