22R to 22RE swap FAQ
Here it is, after much research and time. If you have anything to add or can correct any incorrect information, that'd be good.
This information is only good for ’85-’88 swaps using manual transmissions. ’89-’95 22RE’s have a different wiring setup. Wiring colors may vary between years. Injectors were different between certain years, so if you mix/match parts your setup may not work. It is best to get everything from the same vehicle so you can make sure the ECU, plugs and associated hardware is a match.
The stock 22R head can be used with 22RE intake (if it’s an ’83 and later head), so there’s no need to get an EFI head unless the head you’re using is an early 22R head, in which case you’ll need to drill and tap three new holes or use the donor EFI head. Most of the things you will need are either on the intake or plugged into the harness, so make sure you get everything that plugs into the harness. Also make sure to get everything attached to the intake. An EFI gas tank and fuel pump must be used unless you use a fuel cell and an external fuel pump. Two fuel pumps that are popular to use are the early Toyota Celica (’88-’89) pumps, which were mounted on the framerail and the E2000 Ford pump from an ’89 E250 with the 351W V8 engine.
Parts list for 22R to 22RE swap:
1 – EFI cam (edit: not needed. A carb cam will work)
2 – throttle body
3 – fuel runner
4 – upper intake
5 – lower intake
6 – EFI gas tank
7 – airbox
8 – cross over air tube
9 – EFI distributor
10 – EFI coil
11 – brake booster vacuum hose
12 – upper radiator hose
13 – fuel lines
14 – oil pressure sending unit
15 – throttle cable
16 – head gasket (might as well throw in timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump and associated gaskets while you’re in there).
Wiring list for 22R to 22RE swap:
1 – ECU
2 – fuel pressure VSV
3 – AC idle-up VSV (if equipped)
4 – Air Suction (AS) VSV
5 – check connector
6 – Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
7 – O2 sensor
8 – EFI igniter
9 – knock sensor
10 – water thermo sensor
11 – injectors (x4)
12 – cold start injector
13 – Air Flow Meter (AFM)
14 – circuit opening relay
15 – EFI main relay (on EFI fuse panel)
16 – EFI fuse circuit (on EFI fuse panel)
17 – fuel pump (in EFI tank)
18 – air valve
19 – solenoid resistor
Once you’ve collected all the parts, you’ll have to collect some tools:
1 – 6 MM allen head driver with extension
2 – soldering iron with solder and 18 AWG shrink wrap (make sure you know how to solder well before you start this project because you’ll be doing a fair amount of it).
3 – good set of metric sockets and wrenches (8 MM to 19 MM should be a good range that will cover everything needed).
4 – misc. socket extensions/breaker bars
Now comes the fun part, taking stuff apart. Pulling the intake off of the EFI head is pretty self explanatory except for one bolt that is located just beneath the thermostat housing. You will need a long extension and a 6 MM allen head driver to remove this bolt. Once you have removed the intake, unplug all the wires from the intake and anything on the donor EFI motor (or harness) until all you are left with is a wiring harness with some plugs. You’ll have to do a bit of “surgery” on the harness now. Cut the fuse panel out of the donor harness completely, leaving about 10” of wire hanging out the back. Use a needle to remove the EFI fuse pins and the EFI Main Relay pins and pull these wires out. The rest of the fuse panel can be either saved or discarded (nothing else is needed from it). Cut the following wires at computer plug #1: W, HT, IGF and NE. Leave about eight inches of wire to work with. Cut the following wires on computer plug #2: IGT, and NSW. Again, leave about eight inches of wire to work with later. Cut the following wires on computer plug #3: 4WD, SPD, BAT, B/K, B1 and B2. Leave enough to work with. Here is a list of where these wires should be spliced:
W – violet and red, goes to the check engine light
HT – green, yellow and red, goes to the O2 sensor
IGF – brown and white, goes to the igniter
NE - black and red, goes to the igniter
IGT – black and yellow, also goes to the igniter
NSW – green and red, goes to the start circuit on the ignition switch
4WD – red, yellow and black, goes to the 4WD indicator
SPD – green and red, goes to the speed sensor on the back of the gauge cluster (not necessary for vehicle to run properly)
BAT – white, blue and red, this is the EFI fuse wire. It should go to the fuse panel behind the kick panel on the driver side. There is a place in the panel for an EFI fuse even on carb vehicles. Remove the wire from the fuse block you took from the donor truck and splice it into this fuse panel.
B/K – green, white and red, goes to the stop light switch
B1 – black and red, this is one of two Main EFI Relay wires. The Main EFI Relay wires you cut and removed from the donor fuse panel can now be spliced into your truck’s fuse panel.
B – black and red, same instructions as B1.
Last edited by Izeloz; 06-27-2006 at 09:22 PM.