In other news the engine is back in the rig. Itíll have to come back apart at least one more time so I didnít bother with flex-plate or converter. I do need to be sure I can install the converter access cover after the fact, so at least I can try that now.
The front cross bar is now about a 1/16Ē too short so (weld deformation from all the tower work) so I may do something about that eventually. It still installs OK you just need a bar clamp to do so.
Good newsÖ The high mount holley setup looks like itíll be fine.
The bad news: Holley just came out with a mid mount setup that looks like would have been so much easier! https://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/...cessory-drive/
[img width=800 height=453]https://bangshift.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/mid-mount-2.jpg[/img]
Anyways, getting the engine back in is mostly about letting me work on my next big trouble area: Pedals and booster vs. steering vs. headers vs. remote oil cooler. Itís gonnna be tight (or maybe not, more on that in a second).
Order of events matter since some things have more and less flexibility on where they need to go. Iím designing with the following prioritization:
1) Brake pedal and booster. Pretty much non-negotiable where it goes, at least once I pick a pedal.
2) Steering, again only so many options, planning to run down the upper control link
3) Throttle & Dead pedal (kinda flow off the brake)
5) Remote Oil Cooler
I have a spare master booster setup lying around from a Subaru Impreza of some sort (junkyard find). Iíd been debating throwing it on the RX7, following a few good reviews but itís lower priority than some other things. It at least lets me ball park the space needed for a booster.
Pedals are an issue. I have the stock FJ40 pedal box but itís an all in one and way too tall. Before I cut the thing to smithereens I decided to check the aftermarket. Got really excited about a simple wildwood setup.
But it turns out the 7:1 pedal ratio is really intended for manual brakes and given the big tires I have my heart set on a power brake booster. If I wanted to trade pedal stroke for power, Iíd do that with different master cylinders. By the way both my front and rear calipers run huge pistons. The fronts are factory D60 calipers from a late 70s Ford 350 van. The rears are 73-87 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4 front calipers and rotors. All in all it looks like Iíll need a 1.25Ē master so I have some parts bin diving to do. A power brake setup wants more like a 4:1 pedal ratio to match. After doing a bunch of digging on ebay I eventually landed on s2000 pedals. Theyíre a 3.75:1 ratio, not sure on exact height but look compact, and most importantly, theyíre all on individual brackets so I can position easier. It looked close enough and for $50 shipped Iím gonna given them a go.
Steering I may land a get out of jail free card on. It looks like I have enough space to install the steering control valve (orbital valve, albeit Billavista claims that term is wrong)Ö under the dash. Iíll need a shield since itís high pressure lines but it looks much easier than getting past booster and/or putting this in the vicinity of headers.
So with the two big pieces roughed out in my head, I decided to skip ahead and take a look at headers.
If youíve followed this thread from the beginning may remember how stoked I was on a Liquid Iron Industries headers setup built for Erik Millerís Ultra 4 car.
I borrowed a set of Ice Blocks (AKA header legos) from Anthony and went to town. Itís a 1 3/4 set and Iím planning on 1 7/8 so I had to get creative to make it work. Compounding things is that I ended up with a 2Ē header flange from Anthony so these suckers really want to fall out. Whatever, theyíre still cool. You just get to be a little creative in supporting things.
First pass, attempting a version of the Liquid Iron setup.
Sitting back and looking at, Iím just concerned itís way too much heat up high, and Iím not sure Iím able to get the 36Ē primaries Iíd need out of these for a torque monster motor. SooooÖ If I set aside my dreams of long tubes and instead try to keep things simple, I end up with a much cleaners setup. Trial #2.
Last pass (thus far) was just changing the order of the tubes. I figure with an 18726543 firing order I should at least put cylinders 2 and 6 on opposite sides of the collector (same for 1-3 on the driver side). That leaves me here:
Best guess, but the time itís done Iíll end up somewhere around 22-24 inches primaries. Your thoughts and commentary appreciated.