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Old 02-25-2019, 12:21 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Member # 164794
Location: Incline Village
Posts: 71
Originally Posted by supersize75k5 View Post
What you are expecting is them to potentially take ownership and accept a problem that very well could be caused by an install as the their own.

A jeep, more so a wheeled custom jeep is a maintenance whore and a challenge to keep in top shape.

The design..is on other rigs and proven

The execution and installation..done 3rd party and proven to have issues is done on your end and by your shop..I would start there and stop asking Genright to pay to have your undercarriage detailed and decreased.

You chose the axles

You chose Genright

You chose the shop that installed them that you are providing protection too, likely because they would drop you as a customer. I am guessing you are a challenging customer.

Who welded the diff cover? While it is a thicker cover, I cant say it would be my choice what so ever even before welding to it if I planned on it seeing rocks.

If your shop of choice welded that cover, you seriously may be a huge asshole pointing the finger in the wrong direction.

Figure that cover out first. Take it off and have a machinist verify its not a warped pile of poo...then ask someone else to seal it.

Good luck.
Everything in this post is noted however it sounds like you should go on a campaign for GR. You don't think I know that this rig is a maintenance queen? FU. I attempted to take ownership by fixing this myself and taking it to shops to repair only to start getting feedback that the design is not only flawed but a bad idea. After the fact I get it now and certainly have my eyes a bit more open for future decisions. You would do well in politics sucking your favorite candidate's ball sack. Yup, took some advice to watch them later change tune and then open up more about 'problems' one could occur like leaking.

As for the design being on other rigs and proven it only came to light after the install that Andrew shared with me that these covers can weep (doesn't sound too proven to me nor an isolated issue, more like a design that should be scrapped). Also let's be clear on the point that I in no way offer protection for the shop that originally did the work just don't care to go there in this thread. Given the issues of their work I would never consider using them again, nor have I contacted them, not once, about the issues I am having because I don't hold them responsible for the design. I started this complaint given lack of customer support on GenRights end. This could have easily been avoided with some reasonable customer support. I am fairly certain the cover is not warped but I might check into that given the suggestion. If that turns out to be the case I will certainly note it in this thread and GR will come out smelling pretty good if it is indeed due to shitty work on the installing shops end. The parts come ready to put into position then you weld. Welds look good and the issue is coming from the bottom of the diff cover which leads one to believe it's pulling back from the top of the cover and opening the bottom slightly. I have everything torqued to GenRight's specs, checked and double checked on multiple occasions.

Originally Posted by smythw View Post
I have the same setup as homeboy. He is leaving out a few important facts. The upper control arm is attached by 4 bolts that are threaded into the topside of the diff casting. This takes the vast majority of the force from the upper control arm. The weld to the diff cover is just insurance. I've run this setup longer and 10x harder than that trailer queen you are running. I'm sorry, but your inability to fix a diff leak is super weak.
Google click and anyone can see the design. Indeed the CA bracket is welded to the diff cover and also bolted to the top of the RJ diff. I haven't even had the opportunity to run the 'Queen' yet so save your bs for the toilet. Love braggers, it's my understanding most are closet suckers. For the record it's not just my inability to stop the leak but others have had their stab and some don't care to even attempt a fix because they see the flaws of the design. I'm glad you've had better luck. Since the issue began even said GR employee has fessed up that they leak. Nuff said.. oh I guess not. I will concede that I should have been more skeptical on the design however the four bolts you hold your comments to are failing to do their job and the 'insurance' of the weld is actually, most likely, causing the diff fluid to come out the bottom. So far RTV, Permatex and a Lube Locker gasket have failed to fix the issue. All via separate attempts to correct/fix the issue. I will have to look into the black Right Stuff that was mentioned and/or Yamaha B6. I only attempted the Lube Locker to discredit my concern that the sealant wasn't setting without a break somewhere between the diff cover and the housing.

Originally Posted by 2big bronco View Post
You sound like a whiny pos. No wonder you cant get any help. You have a wheeler that is going to require constant attention and maintenance the whole time you own it. If that's not for you then maybe you should look into a stock honda civic.

Your ability to not spend a few hourss to solve the problem attests to my previous comment.

Have you went into the newbie section and asked how to get it to seal? I'll bet if you pull it apart, clean everything really good, use toyota or right stuff gasket maker, and re install the bolts with locktite or lock washers you dont have any problems. If they still work loose tack weld a few random bolts. Problem solved.
I've had help, advanced advice and have come to the conclusion that the design is flawed. I'll get it figured out with some perseverance. If you can't handle the truth and are too stupid to follow my concerns then there's nothing to help that bitch attitude you protrude in your comments. Again, the complaint/dispute here is GR's lack of customer support. 'Hey let me put in a comment in this guys thread and completely ignore the facts like he does have time spent trying to figure out the issues and just kick him more in the rib cage while he's trying to get up.' For the record I drive an e46 as another trailer queen, sounds like the Civic is your dream car. As Jesse would suggest.. get those parts overnighted straight from Japan bitch .

Yes it's been pulled apart cleaned on at least three occasions and reinstalled with a different fix/solutions all to offer the same results.. a leak after a few hundred miles. Welding bolts will be last attempt after I let GenRight give it a stab (if it even comes to that). Again I know what I got and what I have built and don't have any problem keepn up with maintenance. That stink dkbrth is even making it's way off your post, called toothpaste and mouthwash you should consider using it when you step out of the closet. I like my shit working right so sorry I've posted my legit concerns for others to filter.

Originally Posted by Mopar Moe View Post
What He said

something is not tight enough and/or flat enough.......maybe your skirt

Toughest sealant I have used is stuff made by Yamaha called Yamma bond B6
crazy good

looking at the hydro assist, the angle the ram is mounted is going to screw you.

I personally think the self lubricating chassis is an underated option on Jeeps,
Makes for good rust proofing and ease of disassembly

Beside, my girl loves the smell of gear oil on hot exhaust....she cant keep her panties on

I can appreciate the substance in this post even tho you can't appreciate the skirt I have on. Yeah I am aware of the ram design install flaws, was not my idea and the number one reason I will never use the shop that did the install again. In fact I think it ruined the ram in just a couple thousand road miles. Hoping the ram is not destroyed, I'll know pretty soon and may get into that later in this thread once I know for sure. That issue is being corrected at this very moment. Yamaha bond,,, hmm.

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