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Conversion to Toyota axles

11K views 41 replies 13 participants last post by  Andrew_ln65 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All, as I posted on a different thread, acquired a CJ3A with some mods by the PO - Ford 302 motor, stock D25 and D44, Dana18 guts into a Dana20 case, A 4-speed Ford Toploader manual tranny and R/P steering (doh). The wheels are alloy with some ridiculous negative offset with 33x12.5 tires on - so sidewall to sidewall, it is almost 65".

After trying some off-road simulations in a parking lot, one of my build objectives is to put a reasonably priced e-locker in the front and rear.

I would've left the stock D25 in place and replaced R/P with crossover steering but the steering knuckles had been heavily modded so my choices are - either find stock knuckles for D25 and start from there, or, upgrade the front to a D30. Researching narrow track CJ D30, they seem to be rare and not very well supported in terms of spares and lockers. Next, even the wide track CJ D30 isn't all that easy to find and support. At least, hard to find any around here in the SF Bay Area. And then the ever wider TJ/YJ D30 becomes a different system altogether and is wide enough where I will have to replace the rear D44 too. Or, at least, this is the conclusion I have come to after researching axle upgrade options.

Now, I will admit, as the owner of a FJZ80, UJZ100, and having owned a '85 pickup, I do have a huge Toyota bias :D And my buddy who's going to do the wrenching is also a Toyota guy.

My plan is:
- acquire Toyota 4runner/pickup front solid and rear axles
- Mod the t-case to go center rear driveshaft or swap with a Dana20
- The rear will need spring perches to be moved
- the front will need spring perches to be moved and steering will need some figuring out depending on how the springs sit against the stock steering knuckles - maybe do high steer.
- brake master conversion is already on the cards, go from single master to dual so can address lines from US to metric.
- follow guides/plans for putting 8" e-locker into Toy axles. Plenty of 8" e-lockers available and cheaper than doing eaton e-locker in a Dana axle. Also, not doing ARB, I am sold on e-lockers.
- with some zero/positive offset wheels and 10.5" wide tires, maybe I will end up with the same overall width as now but with stronger axles and drivetrain.

Spot any deal breakers or sticky issues? The steering gearbox placement is a tbd but would like to know what people have done with a SBC/SBF swap for steering?

Thanks!

 
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#2 ·
Researching narrow track CJ D30, they seem to be rare and not very well supported in terms of spares and lockers. Next, even the wide track CJ D30 isn't all that easy to find and support. At least, hard to find any around here in the SF Bay Area. And then the ever wider TJ/YJ D30 becomes a different system altogether and is wide enough where I will have to replace the rear D44 too. Or, at least, this is the conclusion I have come to after researching axle upgrade options.
A Jeep/dana is probably the most well supported segment in the industry. Nothing rare about 1970s-80s CJ parts.

I do have a huge Toyota bias :D And my buddy who's going to do the wrenching is also a Toyota guy.
This is definitely the driving force.

Is your willys SOA or SUA?
 
#6 ·
This is definitely the driving force.
Point taken but like I said before the driving force for me is to put an e-locker at a reasonable price. Looks like the answer for Dana 30 (wide or narrow) is going to be an eaton locker that is about $1k? Add to that cost to rebuild the diff that starts at $500 around here, plus other parts to refresh/refurbish - and we are at almost $2k an axle. By comparison, for a Toyota axle, I can pretty much find a used 8" diff with e-locker and 4.30 gears and pop it in. Yes, the diff housing will need some work to fit an e-locker into a solid front axle but I should still save a lot per axle compared to a Dana/30+e-locker. Am I thinking right?

Is your willys SOA or SUA?
Ugh! So, to keep the Ford 302 oil sump pan from hitting the front 3rd member, they did SOA in the front but left the rear SUA. I want to go back to being SUA and reduce the lift to only what's necessary to fit a 33" because I like the lower ride of the original CJ3A setup. I am looking at various pan options here - from old Bronco pans to this one:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/moroso-coyote-swap-pan.html

I have 2 D30 housings along with a complete Dana 30 in Atlanta, GA and I can't give the things away. I think you're just looking in the wrong places.

A D30 in place of a D25/27 will be a bolt in swap. Very easy.
Searching local Craigslist, I could find only an old beaten up narrow track D30. There are more wide track D30 available but wide track is 56" and at that is the point where I was thinking I might as well swap in a solid axle Toyota axle that is about 55".

I’m wondering about spring width. I’m wondering if you will have to outboard.
Question - if the wide track D30, which is 56", is a straight up bolt on then why would the 55" wide Toyota axle need out-boarding?

Dana 30’s are everywhere and damn near free? :confused:
Take a look here :)
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/search/pts?query=dana+30

Not exactly free but sure, the wide track are definitely more available than narrow track. Two issues for me (1) cost to fit an e-locker (2) lots of geared lower to 3.55 whereas I am already at 4.11 and with the Ford 302 motor and tranny that I have, I actually want lower gearing. The cost to put in new gears and rebuild the diff are pretty steep here.

As an example, I recently swapped out the unlocked axles in my '97 LandCruiser for locked axles. It was cheaper for me to find, ship and install used locked axles than have the current set rebuilt and have lockers installed.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Researching narrow track CJ D30, they seem to be rare and not very well supported in terms of spares and lockers. Next, even the wide track CJ D30 isn't all that easy to find and support.

I have 2 D30 housings along with a complete Dana 30 in Atlanta, GA and I can't give the things away. I think you're just looking in the wrong places.

A D30 in place of a D25/27 will be a bolt in swap. Very easy.
 
#5 ·
This^, I picked up one for free it is a 1976. Parts are super easy to come by and I found a used ARB on CL for a great price. It fit my 71' perfectly, offers way more locker options than a D25 or D27 and a disk brake conversion is easier to do. The 1976 I have came with disc brakes.
 
#16 ·
#19 ·
You should read this thread, it will answer most of your toyota axle swap questions.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-willys/1181265-my-little-mf-parts-due.html

On the locker choice.
Thanks, reading through it now.


I would highly recommend running an automatic front locker with a selectable rear locker. Honestly, it will work better than selectable/selectable in most every situation.
Ok, I am under the tree - how's an auto/selectable combo (either auto in the rear or front) better than selectable/selectable? Isn't choice better than not having a choice when an axle locks/unlocks?
 
#25 · (Edited)
Have you thought about sticking with the D30 in the front and doing a toyota with E locker in the rear. Matching the axle gears is the only thing you would need to do and this combo could be pulled off pretty cheap and easy. Bolt pattern is an issue I guess but you could convert the d30 to 6 lug pretty easy I think?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Unfortunately, the pair of FJZ80 axles I have are not locked and that is why they are sitting in my yard. I swapped them out for a pair for factory locked ones on my '97 LX450. I looked into shortening the housings to make them mini truck width but not many shops around here that do shortening. One shop I called is backlogged with orders for ONE year!! Lady on the phone said she's looking to hire welders and machinists :D

Sorry, re-reading your post - actually, not with the FJ80 axles but I did think of floating the flattie on coil suspension :D But it's a ton of custom work - shorten the axle housings, find/fab control arms. But yea, that'd be sick. Going from Toyota mini truck and a Sammy - both with leaf - to my current 80-series Land Cruiser, I was blown by how well the coil suspension handles on and off road and my kidneys don't hurt after a trip :p
 
#33 ·
I will probably be unwelcome for this, but I have been building Toyota 79-85 axle equipped rigs for a long time, long. It is not a huge deal. I have ran a Saginaw box on the first Jeep, an FJ60 box on one and then an IFS box. When we were young and poor, before the internet we would just run rear hangers and shackles on the front of the Jeep. Worked fine. I drove mine for years with that set up.

Of course my screen name lends to my bias. And yes, you will need to do a mild outboard on the hangers and shackles. I did it in college with a 110 Welder. Easy...

I say go for it and find that Elocker while you are at it.
 
#34 · (Edited)
lol, things are already in motion, my friend - we are about to be a club of two :D Got a 79-85 rear axle and a built front axle with locker and gears (just need to swap out the IFS bearing hub with a pre-IFS bearing hub). An e-locker was delivered last week, for the rear axle.

Still noodling over tranny and t-case choices.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Unless you are doing a ton of lift, Hi-steer is going to be a tough fit.
Well, I bought the axle for it’s locked 3rd and because seems to be freshly rebuilt/armored. The high steer came with it. But yes, I fully expect to have to go back to stock arms. Planning to keep SUA with 2.5” YJ springs.

The FJ60 box is going to package way better on a jeep.
Thanks, let me look into it. Do you know how the FJ60 box aligns with the mount that most places sell like Herm or AA?

Edit: Holy crap, those reman FJ60 gearboxes are a lot more $$ than the Ford ones that Herm recommends with this kit.
 
#42 ·
Last couple of pics, the shaft is kind of hard to see, hidden under the oil filter. Looking to move the oil filter and make it remote, and clear the way for the shaft to run straight to a front/corner mounted gearbox.
Oh wow that's one way to do it. Have you driven it at all like this? The toe change during articulation must be horrible.

Thanks for taking the time
 
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