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Old 04-09-2016, 09:55 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Hey Carl few questions, Did you have fun in Alaska? Looked fun.

On a serious note, Have you gotten many long term reviews from the Jana K4 kit in a front axle? I'm looking to be on 37s F.I. 355SBC Powered with a Crawl Ratio of around 130ish and wondering about the survivability of a built front 44

Redoing the Axles in my CJ7/Wrangler hybrid and picked up a Big Bearing rear 9inch and Narrowed GM D44 Front for a song, for the front I'm thinking your kit, RCV's(Maybe), I have a High Speed Powr-lok in my rear D44 now ill switch to the front so should help save parts if things start to bind(the powr-lok in the stock CJ D30 front has saved a lot of parts on 33's with the SBC NV4500 and Atlas2) and Cryotreat the Ping and Pinion. Planning 37's.

Thanks in advance for the info.
~DJ
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:10 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnailMan View Post
Hey Carl few questions, Did you have fun in Alaska? Looked fun.

On a serious note, Have you gotten many long term reviews from the Jana K4 kit in a front axle? I'm looking to be on 37s F.I. 355SBC Powered with a Crawl Ratio of around 130ish and wondering about the survivability of a built front 44

Redoing the Axles in my CJ7/Wrangler hybrid and picked up a Big Bearing rear 9inch and Narrowed GM D44 Front for a song, for the front I'm thinking your kit, RCV's(Maybe), I have a High Speed Powr-lok in my rear D44 now ill switch to the front so should help save parts if things start to bind(the powr-lok in the stock CJ D30 front has saved a lot of parts on 33's with the SBC NV4500 and Atlas2) and Cryotreat the Ping and Pinion. Planning 37's.

Thanks in advance for the info.
~DJ
I had a blast in Alaska, wish it could happen again.
Your combo with a power lock in the front would be fantastic. Yes it will slip, but that is like a fuse on the rest of the drive train. I have several customers running 39s with no problems for years now. To be certain, they know how to drive. For absolute traction he power lock can be shimmed up to around 1000 ft lbs before it slips. It will still give in the rocks, and in mud and snow you will almost never have slippage. it will be a bit hard to steer though. so a compromise of around 500 ft lbs is good for maneuverability. Back in the day I had a model 27 in the rear of my 64 scout. I heard you could shim them. not sure of exactly what to do, I cut some shims with tin snips out of some coffee can lids. worked perfect. still differentiated around a corner, but I could do a burn out, well a chirp chirp, with one tire on pavement and one tire in gravel.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:38 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Carl, good to see you around here. We spoke a few weeks ago, I have the info you need for the Wagoneer axle bearings with regard your quick-set bearing solution...

Also have some questions about the Jana 44 kit you build, some of this may be answered elsewhere- if so, sorry, I'll read through this thread and make notes elsewhere for my info.

I have a (Low pinion) 81 Wagoneer D44 up front, 94 Isuzu 44 (also LP) in the rear of an 89 S10 Blazer. SOA, mildly built 350 running the show. I have hydroboost and am going to hydro-assist steering...

I'm curious if the Jana 44 kit will work in the Isuzu axle, and will I need a 3.73 and down carrier (presently have 4.10 in the rear axle, 3.08 in the front which is why I have no front prop shaft). I'd like to run a fulltime locker of some sort, maybe an Aussie locker in this axle.

Front axle I've put selectable hubs on it, I'm pretty sure the Jana 44 will be a simple install as it appears to be made for this more or less. Question here is, will I be required to go to an aftermarket axle due to splines on the new innards?

I've never setup a R&P, but have done pretty much everything else on this build with the exception of building the transmission. I've built engines, transfer cases, did the SAS myself in my driveway, etc. What I don't know is simply a little research and learning away from me doing. So I'm not concerned so much about the install as it appears to just enail a bit of extra grinding with a die grinder and a bit more testfitting.

The price of the kit is reasonable, but if I start having to buy $300 aftermarket shafts I may just have to stick with stock as I'm not crawling this truck, it's a DD. Not a complaint about your product, it just may not be targeted at my niche. If I was building a crawler (which I will be soon, my 90 XJ is due for some love), then I will definitely go with this.

But if I don't have to use spendy shafts, this is definitely in line with my "build it durable" mindset.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:05 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by burnt-kat View Post
Carl, good to see you around here. We spoke a few weeks ago, I have the info you need for the Wagoneer axle bearings with regard your quick-set bearing solution...

Also have some questions about the Jana 44 kit you build, some of this may be answered elsewhere- if so, sorry, I'll read through this thread and make notes elsewhere for my info.

I have a (Low pinion) 81 Wagoneer D44 up front, 94 Isuzu 44 (also LP) in the rear of an 89 S10 Blazer. SOA, mildly built 350 running the show. I have hydroboost and am going to hydro-assist steering...

I'm curious if the Jana 44 kit will work in the Isuzu axle, and will I need a 3.73 and down carrier (presently have 4.10 in the rear axle, 3.08 in the front which is why I have no front prop shaft). I'd like to run a fulltime locker of some sort, maybe an Aussie locker in this axle.

Front axle I've put selectable hubs on it, I'm pretty sure the Jana 44 will be a simple install as it appears to be made for this more or less. Question here is, will I be required to go to an aftermarket axle due to splines on the new innards?

I've never setup a R&P, but have done pretty much everything else on this build with the exception of building the transmission. I've built engines, transfer cases, did the SAS myself in my driveway, etc. What I don't know is simply a little research and learning away from me doing. So I'm not concerned so much about the install as it appears to just enail a bit of extra grinding with a die grinder and a bit more testfitting.

The price of the kit is reasonable, but if I start having to buy $300 aftermarket shafts I may just have to stick with stock as I'm not crawling this truck, it's a DD. Not a complaint about your product, it just may not be targeted at my niche. If I was building a crawler (which I will be soon, my 90 XJ is due for some love), then I will definitely go with this.

But if I don't have to use spendy shafts, this is definitely in line with my "build it durable" mindset.
You do not have to change axle shafts. just use what you have. On the rear, if your pinion nut is 1 1/8" then you need my kit. if it is 1 5/16" then it already has the larger ring and pinion. but we need to know the spline count. The JKs with the large gear, have 24 spline pinion shafts, but some of the Nissans, like the Titan have come with a 26 spline shaft.

As for setting up the diff, I have made several vids, on my Youtube channel, start with "ring and pinion patterns explained" and go from there.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:21 PM   #105 (permalink)
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That's awesome, Id love to do some Alaska wheeling some day. Thanks for your quick response man, I figured the Powerlok would be great to keep for the front but wanted an expert opinion I'm pretty sure its all ready shimmed really well as it has worked really well in the rocks in the past, Ill probably be ordering your kit with gears in 2 to 3 months (Building a house and garage so funds are tight) Is there an upgrade for the rear 9 inch or is it pretty stout as is? Its a Big Bearing out of an E350 with Dutchman 31 splines. Debating on a full locker like a Detroit. I really appreciate your input.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:49 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unRL View Post
I had a blast in Alaska, wish it could happen again.
Your combo with a power lock in the front would be fantastic. Yes it will slip, but that is like a fuse on the rest of the drive train. I have several customers running 39s with no problems for years now. To be certain, they know how to drive. For absolute traction he power lock can be shimmed up to around 1000 ft lbs before it slips. It will still give in the rocks, and in mud and snow you will almost never have slippage. it will be a bit hard to steer though. so a compromise of around 500 ft lbs is good for maneuverability. Back in the day I had a model 27 in the rear of my 64 scout. I heard you could shim them. not sure of exactly what to do, I cut some shims with tin snips out of some coffee can lids. worked perfect. still differentiated around a corner, but I could do a burn out, well a chirp chirp, with one tire on pavement and one tire in gravel.
Carl, thanks for the gear set up video. That helped me out a lot when I was doing my gears.

I am running a 9" rear and 44 lp front, in a stretched 46 cj2a. Both with chromoly shafts. I just went to 38" tires from 35" and I plan on the jk ring gear upgrade this next winter. I run a grizzly locker in the rear and have a powerlok front.

What or how is the tightest way to set the powerlok up. I have the steel plates in the powerlok now. I have not been out with the 38's yet (just got them) but thought about changing the front oil out with no additives too. Before the powerlok I had a spool in the front, but went to the powerlok for a safety margin with my old stock shafts. So tight steering is ok with me. I'm from central California and mainly rock crawl.

Here's a pic of my son and our attempt at our own super jeep build.

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Old 04-25-2016, 12:08 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Carl, thanks for the gear set up video. That helped me out a lot when I was doing my gears.

What or how is the tightest way to set the powerlok up.
I welded a plate to an old axle and put that in a vice, then with a front axle and a bar through the u-joint holes you can rotate to test the force to break the clutches loose, factory was from 175 to 275 ft-lbs.

you will alternate drive and driven plate, so as to get a full 10 frictional surfaces. ( some had the disks and plates arranged for only 2 or 3 active friction surfaces per side.) place .015" of shims in first on each side then install the alternating clutch stacks. use about an 8 foot bar through the ears of the the front axle to force it to break loose. If you can't get it to rotate with your full body weight, ( I weigh 175) on an 8 foot bar take out .005 per side or if it slip to easy add .005 per side till you can just get it to slip around 1000 ft lbs. for example if you weigh 200 lbs and you have a 5 foot bar, and you lift you self in the air, and bounce and then it gives just a bit, then that's where you want it. you may have to put a jack stand on the end you are prying on to keep the whole assembly from coming out of the vice. After you get the preload you want, then put $20 in the mail and send it to me to help cover my time here on the keyboard, thanks.
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:33 PM   #108 (permalink)
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