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Old 03-02-2017, 02:41 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I have been buying bolt-ons for Jeeps for over twenty years now
FIFY
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Old 03-28-2017, 02:09 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents. I personally know Andrew and Tony at Genright and while the design for attaching the link to the diff cover might not be the greatest you should of done your research in the first place. its hard to trouble shoot something that they didn't install or cant look at. its just a link mount, get a truss for a couple hundred and replace the mount. Now onto the next point that everyone has left out till now. I wish you luck with Jeep Speed Shop. if you have your jeep back before Christmas I will be amazed and good luck getting that LS to pass smog. looks like the jeep will be a full time trailer queen after all so you can remove those plastic fenders and get some real scratches on her.
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Old 04-05-2017, 05:51 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:58 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Old 05-02-2017, 08:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The problem is for 40k they obviously used 100 dollar bills for the seals and for a diff cover gasket. 100 dollar bills don't seal too good.

if the diff cover is flat try locktite 518 gasket eliminator.
that is better than any yamabond or other gasket "maker"

Trust me i rebuilt a briggs and stratton 5 hp years ago and it almost started when i was done!
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dookey View Post
Is that a stock style Dana 60 stamped steel cover or something beefy and aftermarket?

Yes its the "thicker" 4x4 front cover, not the thinner rear cover. Maybe .100"

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Originally Posted by bbusch8274 View Post
I will look into that. Likely going to have to switch over to a truss or something. I do like the design but the fact it doesn't work as advertised has me considering other options.




It's a heavy duty beefy one that GenRight sells for this specific application.

If I had a setup like that which "should work" I would shit can the thin cover and run an aftermarket 3/8" cover and drill and tap the housing to 1/2" and run the bigger bolts in all the holes...

I did that same thing and all I was running on my diffcover was the one mount for a double ended ram. Maybe take a look at Jordans car if it makes it out to KOH and see what they did.....

Or ad some sleeves and plating to the cover????

OP
You say you have been building jeeps for 20 years then fix your fucking leak.... It's not GR fault, you saw what they offer and you said cool.....
And as far as the rear leaking I'm sure Currie or GR will give you new seals for YOU to install..... If you did buy them new...


Is the front cover link mount the best idea ever hell no.. But most of there customers will never figure that out because there jeeps will never get pushed that hard....


Its sad that you are badmouthing a reputable company over some leaking axles.... Maybe ask to speak to tony to get to a permanent fix. He will take care of it..
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:09 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Fucking Pirate. I haven't even bothered to get back to this thread but I'm sure if I read all the comments above it would be good for a laugh, I did catch a few lines that gave me a smile.

Perhaps it would have been best to have let GR do the install vs. the shop that did the work, at this point I'll forfeit that. Too late now and honestly with the service I received after purchasing the parts I'm glad GR didn't do the work. Problems persisting to this day are a bit more than a simple axle seal leak and a diff cover leak. After all this time I am hoping to just move forward and repair the faults/issues of the design. To this day the rig has less than 2,500 miles on the setup but that will soon change.

Rig has been down at JSS for the past two years. The mess will get fixed before it comes back. I haven't bothered to read all the comments on this tread because I could care less to see what folk, who are incapable of wiping all the shit off their own ass, have to say however there is no doubt GenRight has been a joke to deal with which has been my experience. Regarding the front diff, the seal leak will hopefully get figured out and if not I will change the setup completely. I have reputable shops that have looked and attempted fixes and it's like anything else.. they will laugh at other shops work or say "well that was done wrong, I would have done it differently", all of which have commented on the GR design being flawed or at least open to vulnerabilities (wasn't my original theory). I don't care to bring those shops into the conversation here but I'm sure many on Pirate know the shops and most would probably find them reputable for the most part. I am mostly pissed at the rudeness of GR and the careless attitude after spending quite a bit of coin with them. In no way was I a pita customer.. but yes, aggravated by the lack of support. You would think there is a pretty straight forward fix to the front diff issue but that has not been the case which further supports other's theories that the GR design is flawed. I hope it works out because I like the setup the way it is if it will stop puking. I am well aware of the design and why, in hindsight, it is likely a flawed design. To date the front diff fix has been attempted by two local shops, by me in my own garage (using specs directly from GR) and now is in the hands of JSS down in Cotati, CA (if any of the jackass commenters here care to go take a look and use your Einstein expertise to tell me where things went wrong). The most frustrating aspect has been the diff leak puking all under the rig over pretty much all components from the front diff back.

Waiting to get the rig back with a new LS3 engine/6L80 and Atlas 3.8. Then start the 5.7 Hemi w/545rfe swap in my 05 LJ so that one day my son and I can enjoy the backwoods together. To each our own how we use and enjoy our rigs. I work four jobs, own a boat rental business and occasionally, at this point, get the opportunity to work on my own shit (but usually I'm having to work on my boats not my Jeeps) so outsourcing is no doubt necessary for me (which is good for those that are in the 4WD industry/business). We all offer different skills in life but I guess not being a self proclaimed 'Pro' fabricator with my own youtube channel means I shouldn't post on Pirate to offer up transparency regarding a business and their customer service abilities. Well noted, thanks.


*edit:: I'm going to read back through this thread and post up as some seem legitimately interested to know more/have more detail. I will keep the fix in the update as I am nearing the end of the engine swap. I will get back to everyone who has commented individually over the next day or so which is going to be time consuming.
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Last edited by bbusch8274; 02-24-2019 at 06:55 PM. Reason: going to update the thread with substance
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:07 PM   #34 (permalink)
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As I get started replying to all the comments I would like to say if Pirate hosted a stand up comedy circuit around the country I'd most certainly show up.. probably stand up myself to spray a shit on all the shitters. Let give this thread the much needed update it deserves.



Quote:
Originally Posted by chromewontgetyouhome View Post
Post pics of the front axle set up so we have an idea of whats going on.
I'll start with a couple photos.. catching up here may take a while.

**DAMN photos are posting way too large**


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Originally Posted by chromewontgetyouhome View Post
Have you tried contacting Currie about the leaking axles? They probably will say "too fucking bad" about the front axle since your post makes it sound like part of the link set up is welded to the front diff cover, but they may be able to help you with the rear.
I have contacted Currie and they simply just don't follow up. Currie is well aware of GR's diff cover design and the two products go hand in hand. Also for the record GR pushes Curries products. I really wanted the Pro Rock 60's and wish I had stuck to my original plan vs. listening to Andrew's push/advice. For the record the GR design bolts to the top of the axle as well as the mount is welded directly to the D60 cover. Also after the issue came to light Andrew said the design is known to weep however my issue is a puking leak. He never informed me of weeping issues they have experienced prior to the purchase and issues I had otherwise I would have most certainly been turned off by the design (which was and intrical part of my decision to go with the Currie axle over the PR60). That actually adds to my frustration. As for the axle seal leak that is an annoyance but it happens. Given the front diff leak this annoyance only added to the puke under the rig. If memory serves me correctly Currie just didn't get back to me after they said they would which shows a lack of diligence and support.


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Originally Posted by chromewontgetyouhome View Post
Also look for a direct phone number for one of the big wigs at Genright, fuck trying to go through the monkeys to talk to some one with some clout.
A birdie has sent over Tony's personal cell number but honestly I don't care to go that route at this time (still have it unless it has changed). I may tho before I make the drive down to Semi Valley (if we cannot work out a fix at JSS). In the end I will follow up with this thread and let everyone know the fix or that I end up having to load the rig and drive the 1,000 mile round trip and what results from that ridiculous option.
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Last edited by bbusch8274; 02-24-2019 at 08:08 PM. Reason: had to remove the photos
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:46 PM   #35 (permalink)
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That's a huge grip for, 2 axle leaks? Is that what your issue is?
Why not post up here some of your issues and see if Pirate can help?
While mounting a link arm to a diff cover is not the best idea, it does work.

Actually some good advice. Originally when I posted I most certainly should have shared some photos of the issues rather than the rigs. Hopefully I can get my photos I just tired to share working so they don't take up three wide screens. The gripe is actually more advanced than just leaks, it concerns customer service, more or less lack of, and advice from the company that steered me away from my original build plans. Hope to get the rig back in the next 60 days and if fixed I'll let everyone know what worked.. if not I will keep everyone informed on my venture down to the GenRight shop and let everyone know of the outcome directly from the source. If some good advice shows up on this thread I will certainly take it into consideration/try out the idea.

I do hope I can make the design work as it was the original plan and looks very clean. I think the most frustration part is the fact that I listened to their advice then they left me hanging as problems started to arise. To date I have tried RTV, Permatex as well as another sealant someone suggested but can't remember because it was so long ago.. currently have a lube locker (which GR told me not to try and at this point to remove).
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I would suggest some alignment dowels into the cover and diff to take load off the bolts and help keep the cover from flexing
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:14 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents. I personally know Andrew and Tony at Genright and while the design for attaching the link to the diff cover might not be the greatest you should of done your research in the first place. its hard to trouble shoot something that they didn't install or cant look at. its just a link mount, get a truss for a couple hundred and replace the mount.
Point well taken.


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Originally Posted by LJ3 View Post
Now onto the next point that everyone has left out till now. I wish you luck with Jeep Speed Shop. if you have your jeep back before Christmas I will be amazed and good luck getting that LS to pass smog. looks like the jeep will be a full time trailer queen after all so you can remove those plastic fenders and get some real scratches on her.

Luckily I don't have to smog the rig, this rig will be driven on road and off. Good thing because I do believe CA has really cracked down on the LS swaps since I started the project a couple years ago. Maybe quite the mess for some.

The rig will certainly be driven off road however no doubt I don't have plans to tear it up. If that were the point I would be building something more in line for that style of wheeling. I just don't get that shit but certainly if I were into racing or just trying to brag about how low gravity has pulled my ball sack down I would have a buggy of sort.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:32 PM   #38 (permalink)
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.

Rig has been down at JSS for the past two years.
Wow.... just ... wow.
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:42 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Is this a bitch session about your leaky diff or a build thread/fantasy???
And why are you bringing it back from the dead???



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Old 02-24-2019, 11:21 PM   #40 (permalink)
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What you are expecting is them to potentially take ownership and accept a problem that very well could be caused by an install as the their own.

A jeep, more so a wheeled custom jeep is a maintenance whore and a challenge to keep in top shape.

The design..is on other rigs and proven

The execution and installation..done 3rd party and proven to have issues is done on your end and by your shop..I would start there and stop asking Genright to pay to have your undercarriage detailed and decreased.

You chose the axles

You chose Genright

You chose the shop that installed them that you are providing protection too, likely because they would drop you as a customer. I am guessing you are a challenging customer.

Who welded the diff cover? While it is a thicker cover, I cant say it would be my choice what so ever even before welding to it if I planned on it seeing rocks.

If your shop of choice welded that cover, you seriously may be a huge asshole pointing the finger in the wrong direction.

Figure that cover out first. Take it off and have a machinist verify its not a warped pile of poo...then ask someone else to seal it.

Good luck.
Everything in this post is noted however it sounds like you should go on a campaign for GR. You don't think I know that this rig is a maintenance queen? FU. I attempted to take ownership by fixing this myself and taking it to shops to repair only to start getting feedback that the design is not only flawed but a bad idea. After the fact I get it now and certainly have my eyes a bit more open for future decisions. You would do well in politics sucking your favorite candidate's ball sack. Yup, took some advice to watch them later change tune and then open up more about 'problems' one could occur like leaking.

As for the design being on other rigs and proven it only came to light after the install that Andrew shared with me that these covers can weep (doesn't sound too proven to me nor an isolated issue, more like a design that should be scrapped). Also let's be clear on the point that I in no way offer protection for the shop that originally did the work just don't care to go there in this thread. Given the issues of their work I would never consider using them again, nor have I contacted them, not once, about the issues I am having because I don't hold them responsible for the design. I started this complaint given lack of customer support on GenRights end. This could have easily been avoided with some reasonable customer support. I am fairly certain the cover is not warped but I might check into that given the suggestion. If that turns out to be the case I will certainly note it in this thread and GR will come out smelling pretty good if it is indeed due to shitty work on the installing shops end. The parts come ready to put into position then you weld. Welds look good and the issue is coming from the bottom of the diff cover which leads one to believe it's pulling back from the top of the cover and opening the bottom slightly. I have everything torqued to GenRight's specs, checked and double checked on multiple occasions.




Quote:
Originally Posted by smythw View Post
I have the same setup as homeboy. He is leaving out a few important facts. The upper control arm is attached by 4 bolts that are threaded into the topside of the diff casting. This takes the vast majority of the force from the upper control arm. The weld to the diff cover is just insurance. I've run this setup longer and 10x harder than that trailer queen you are running. I'm sorry, but your inability to fix a diff leak is super weak.
Google click and anyone can see the design. Indeed the CA bracket is welded to the diff cover and also bolted to the top of the RJ diff. I haven't even had the opportunity to run the 'Queen' yet so save your bs for the toilet. Love braggers, it's my understanding most are closet suckers. For the record it's not just my inability to stop the leak but others have had their stab and some don't care to even attempt a fix because they see the flaws of the design. I'm glad you've had better luck. Since the issue began even said GR employee has fessed up that they leak. Nuff said.. oh I guess not. I will concede that I should have been more skeptical on the design however the four bolts you hold your comments to are failing to do their job and the 'insurance' of the weld is actually, most likely, causing the diff fluid to come out the bottom. So far RTV, Permatex and a Lube Locker gasket have failed to fix the issue. All via separate attempts to correct/fix the issue. I will have to look into the black Right Stuff that was mentioned and/or Yamaha B6. I only attempted the Lube Locker to discredit my concern that the sealant wasn't setting without a break somewhere between the diff cover and the housing.


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Originally Posted by 2big bronco View Post
You sound like a whiny pos. No wonder you cant get any help. You have a wheeler that is going to require constant attention and maintenance the whole time you own it. If that's not for you then maybe you should look into a stock honda civic.

Your ability to not spend a few hourss to solve the problem attests to my previous comment.

Have you went into the newbie section and asked how to get it to seal? I'll bet if you pull it apart, clean everything really good, use toyota or right stuff gasket maker, and re install the bolts with locktite or lock washers you dont have any problems. If they still work loose tack weld a few random bolts. Problem solved.
I've had help, advanced advice and have come to the conclusion that the design is flawed. I'll get it figured out with some perseverance. If you can't handle the truth and are too stupid to follow my concerns then there's nothing to help that bitch attitude you protrude in your comments. Again, the complaint/dispute here is GR's lack of customer support. 'Hey let me put in a comment in this guys thread and completely ignore the facts like he does have time spent trying to figure out the issues and just kick him more in the rib cage while he's trying to get up.' For the record I drive an e46 as another trailer queen, sounds like the Civic is your dream car. As Jesse would suggest.. get those parts overnighted straight from Japan bitch .

Yes it's been pulled apart cleaned on at least three occasions and reinstalled with a different fix/solutions all to offer the same results.. a leak after a few hundred miles. Welding bolts will be last attempt after I let GenRight give it a stab (if it even comes to that). Again I know what I got and what I have built and don't have any problem keepn up with maintenance. That stink dkbrth is even making it's way off your post, called toothpaste and mouthwash you should consider using it when you step out of the closet. I like my shit working right so sorry I've posted my legit concerns for others to filter.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar Moe View Post
What He said

something is not tight enough and/or flat enough.......maybe your skirt

Toughest sealant I have used is stuff made by Yamaha called Yamma bond B6
crazy good

looking at the hydro assist, the angle the ram is mounted is going to screw you.

I personally think the self lubricating chassis is an underated option on Jeeps,
Makes for good rust proofing and ease of disassembly

Beside, my girl loves the smell of gear oil on hot exhaust....she cant keep her panties on

I can appreciate the substance in this post even tho you can't appreciate the skirt I have on. Yeah I am aware of the ram design install flaws, was not my idea and the number one reason I will never use the shop that did the install again. In fact I think it ruined the ram in just a couple thousand road miles. Hoping the ram is not destroyed, I'll know pretty soon and may get into that later in this thread once I know for sure. That issue is being corrected at this very moment. Yamaha bond,,, hmm.

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Old 02-24-2019, 11:22 PM   #41 (permalink)
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wait.

you have an axle seal leak and a leaking front dif cover on currie axles and you posted a bad sellers thread about Genright? LOL.

I'm honestly baffled that someone would spend 40K on a build and come one the internet to whine about oil leaks. fucking wrangler people.

on to your issues, Replace the axle seal in the rear and quit bitching. I'll give you that Genright owes you a seal and the labor to fix it since you bought the axles assembled through them.

as far as the front goes, a lot of people have that setup without leaks. that leak issue is your installers problem. they managed to fuck up the cover somehow. have them weld you a new cover bolted to a welding table or to a housing so it doesn't warp.

If it were mine, I'd countersink the cover and run Conical washers with Grade8 bolts to lock the cover in place. same way I do all my difs. also,you should use a lube-locker gasket instead of a gasket maker "just in case" the cover shifts, it shouldn't cause a leak once you tighten the bolts back down.


Currie is Smart. they don't deal with the public so they don't have to deal with the complaints.
However, I have called them multiple times with questions about products and have had nothing but great service. I have had them sell me parts direct before, but they generally want me to go though a vendor.


Honestly the rear axle seal leak is not that big a deal and doesn't bother me.. that is an easy fix. PITA, yes but not something I would ever post up about unless I am finding poor support from the shop/seller. In my case I am exposing a bad design by GenRight (not a Currie diff cover) and further letting other's know that I have had to deal with a company that doesn't support their customers. fucking brainless dirty dicks that like to complain about Wrangler owners. It's a bit more complicated than a simple oil leak that is fixable and certainly has more to do with lack of support.

on to your suggestions, noted and appreciated. For the record I have a Lube Locker on there now that I attempted in my final fix and GR is suggesting I remove it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JKhauler View Post
Where's the michael Jackson popcorn meme when you need one? This guy is about to learn first hand why you don't come to Pirate4x4 and whine like a bitch over 2 leaking axle seals lol... Bro, if you cant remedy that problem yourself, how about packing that rig up on a trailer and sell it to someone who knows how to do it.. You're clearly WAAAAYYY over your head in shit you have no clue about.. These fly by night offroaders are mesmerizing... I'm going to quote the guy from Fast and the Furious: "Just because you think you can box, doesn't mean you can just step in the ring with Ali."
I liked your comment here so much that I decided to not let this thread go after all this time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by samy crawler View Post
FIFY
Look at this little punk.. can't leave him out.. the one that likes to make up a quote. Bet you're the guy that likes to watch a fight then stomp on the person that is down's head. OMG dude. lmao.
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:32 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Wow.... just ... wow.
Time lapse is not his/shops fault although I am aware that he will not win any build races.


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Originally Posted by gregj50 View Post
Is this a bitch session about your leaky diff or a build thread/fantasy???
And why are you bringing it back from the dead???



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In the end I will find a solution and offer full transparency.. that's why.


After finding this thread this evening and getting back to everyone for the most part I would like to figure out the root cause of the issue. Obviously it's mostly understood at this point by the majority that attaching a CA to a diff cover is a bad idea. Someone should tell GR so they don't suggest and support their product to a consumer like myself that put some faith in their advice. Some lessons are learned the hard way. With that said and underneath all the BS and commentary there are some good suggestions that I most certainly will consider and may try. I'll keep posted later this year when I have a chance to see what corrects the issue. Thanks guys. no seriously, I do appreciate it.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:01 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Just curious, at any time in the last 2 years when you have had the diff cover off have you checked to see if the cover is warped?
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:28 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bbusch8274 View Post
For the record I have a Lube Locker on there now that I attempted in my final fix and GR is suggesting I remove it.

So you have been and still are in occasional communications with Genright ?

Do they know about this thread ?



Curious if you can weld to the Currie centers for a link mount like you can on a Dana and ditch that weird cover/bolt set up, but I guess they have a crossover mount to accomplish that, was the truss link mount an option and you chose the diff cover mount ? (just asking seriously don't know)


You spent alot of money, and they have all of it, so they are are more or less, Done with your project so to speak .



Take that buggy out to farm country and find some old boy that knows what the fuck he's doing and he will fix your leaks, shit I can't even see em, and I'll guarantee I can fix em, make a better UL mount system to boot .

Hope you get everything sorted out, I can see how this could be frustrating when you paid up, things like this reinforce my trust issues, I keeps me from letting other people build or work on my shit .


Best of luck to you .
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:25 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notstock View Post
Just curious, at any time in the last 2 years when you have had the diff cover off have you checked to see if the cover is warped?
Short answer.. no. Nothing has been done with the front diff. Last time the rig was driven the ram seemingly failed so on the trailer and down to the Bay it went (that was Jan 2017). After much thought this evening I am going to have the unit inspected under a microscope, if I can, and post back. If it turns out the diff cover is warped I will certainly have more questions than answers at that point and it will most certainly be more difficult to pin point this as a design flaw on GR's part and error in judgement on my part to move forward with a design that incorporates a CA mount being attached to a differential cover. I failed to read this thread since my last posts until earlier this evening and now I find myself questioning several things that may have gone wrong. Quite a bit of time has gone by at this point (3.5+ years since the labor). If the unit is warped I will likely have a truss built and get a new cover. In that event I will have to give GR the benefit of the doubt. If it is not warped I will give JSS a shot at stopping the issue as is and if the problem continues to persist there is a chance I will take it down to GR to have a look otherwise I may likely write the issue off and try and forget it ever happened and move forward with a truss. I like the design in theory but if it doesn't work then it doesn't work, move on and maybe everyone is the wiser.


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Originally Posted by Valley Rock View Post
So you have been and still are in occasional communications with Genright ?

Do they know about this thread ?


Curious if you can weld to the Currie centers for a link mount like you can on a Dana and ditch that weird cover/bolt set up, but I guess they have a crossover mount to accomplish that, was the truss link mount an option and you chose the diff cover mount ? (just asking seriously don't know)

You spent alot of money, and they have all of it, so they are are more or less, Done with your project so to speak .

Take that buggy out to farm country and find some old boy that knows what the fuck he's doing and he will fix your leaks, shit I can't even see em, and I'll guarantee I can fix em, make a better UL mount system to boot .

Hope you get everything sorted out, I can see how this could be frustrating when you paid up, things like this reinforce my trust issues, I keeps me from letting other people build or work on my shit .
I spoke with GR recently but more or less regarding their suggestion on the front coil over hoops and how they position them there in their own shop. They haven't forgotten me around that place for sure. Absolutely if I were skilled enough and had the time to do this stuff on my own I wouldn't put trust in other people. Being able to weld and work on one's own shit doesn't make them a custom fabricator (nor have I ever claimed to be one). I think the more I am considering all the issues that could have caused this issue I am skeptical with my own thoughts on the matter. However, I don't think I'm wrong with much of my frustration regarding all the BS I have been through. Your point is very valid tho that GR has the money and at that point if they don't do the work they can ultimately be finished with the situation. If I had listened to my heart I would have stuck with the Pro Rock 60's and gone with a truss on the front but ultimately I went with Andrew's suggestion to choose Currie and the diff cover design against my better judgement. Guess I didn't really consider that the install shop would foul it up so badly they would warp the cover allowing the design to fail (and at this point in no way am I convinced that is what happened, but it is possible). Certainly learning some valuable lessons here tho and why I should be more skeptical regarding this shit. I just somewhat assumed it was a proven design and I wouldn't have problems. I do believe that throwing hundred dollar bills at labor doesn't mean that labor is worth it. If done correctly and no issues then those Benjamin's are unavoidable either way for someone like myself that doesn't have the equipment to do the job. In the end this is a once in a lifetime build, I hope some things start to go more positively with it. also believe it or not I hope there is some slight vindication for GenRight because I want the design to work out given that is the setup incorporated with my build. If there is a fix that proves to hold over time and I don't have to go with a truss I will be happy in the end.


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Originally Posted by Valley Rock View Post
Best of luck to you .
Appreciate it man.
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Old 02-25-2019, 04:53 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I just saw this come up again from the past and did a quick re-read.

Everyone has an opinion...…...some good some bad.Any reputable shop
can have a bad day as I've even had lower link brackets on an 8.8 TJ swap for my Sons Jeep welded on wrong by a local reputable shop...……..and I didn't notice until I had it reassembled and went to install it.They had no problem making it right on their dime.That was years ago but it happens.I have never used Genright or their products,

I have nothing personally against Currie and have not run their axles but when I went to 60's on my TJ I bought Solid's from Ohio.I like the design better and have Zero issues.It looks like Genright uses Currie exclusively and the same set-up on many of their builds.

I hope Todd gets it fixed.
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:42 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvhd View Post
I just saw this come up again from the past and did a quick re-read.



Everyone has an opinion...…...some good some bad.Any reputable shop

can have a bad day as I've even had lower link brackets on an 8.8 TJ swap for my Sons Jeep welded on wrong by a local reputable shop...……..and I didn't notice until I had it reassembled and went to install it.They had no problem making it right on their dime.That was years ago but it happens.I have never used Genright or their products,



I have nothing personally against Currie and have not run their axles but when I went to 60's on my TJ I bought Solid's from Ohio.I like the design better and have Zero issues.It looks like Genright uses Currie exclusively and the same set-up on many of their builds.



I hope Todd gets it fixed.


I have a buddy who has used GR on 3 heeps, YJ, LJ and a JK... they definitely push the Currie axles!!!
On the reputable part.... He’s never had any trouble with them.... He’s had buddy’s buy axles, armor, cages along with the full builds he’s done.... I’ve bought full armor through them. No problems whatsoever!!
I couldn’t imagine purchasing a product, taking it somewhere else/installing myself, then bitching about fitment or fabrication problems!!! All GR was asked was to supply a product... and sounds like the product has been proven on other builds!!!
OP...... stop Fkn around!!!! 2 years????
Fix your shit!!!!


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Old 02-25-2019, 08:08 PM   #48 (permalink)
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2 years and you cant pay someone fix an axle leak, yet you want to talk shit about pirate members? Drop a pair of nuts, and work on and build your own shit instead of paying people to do it and then crying about it for years. For fucks sake, you complain about a leaky front diff cover, yet haven't even made an attempt to pull the cover and inspect it? If that's too difficult for you to do yourself, maybe you could have your husband check it for you while you are in the kitchen cooking dinner.

Last edited by Big4x4Rides; 02-25-2019 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:19 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Even after your cock breath comments I will allow you to tow your pos over to my house half way between where it's at your place. Bring me some carne asada tacos and a 12 pack of beer and I will fix your front diff cover leak. Anyone who has grown up working on stuff can fix the leak in an acceptable manner in an afternoon. Even if a "correct fix" is some sort of truss to eliminate the diff cover bolts.


Oh and your still a whiney bitch that should have a civic


^^^ that was a legitimate offer
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:52 PM   #50 (permalink)
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A microscope is not the tool to use to figure out if the Diff cover is warped. When you finally make sure you have a flat one then you can figure out if the axle housing mating surface is flat, then you're starting out where you should have been. It ain't rocket science.
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