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Old 04-06-2018, 06:06 AM   #1026 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stan1688 View Post
Iím pretty sure that round flange is from a passenger drop 241. Just for future reference and anyone else reading.
Yup, it was either that or a Chevy 208. I have a couple of square ones with the same dimensions that I think were off the 208ís though. Too much junk.
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:55 AM   #1027 (permalink)
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Interesting! I thought they had the square flange same as an NP208.
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Old 04-06-2018, 11:31 PM   #1028 (permalink)
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Now all I have to do is modify the shift rails for twin-sticking and cut the mounting foot off / plate it to get it ready for reassembly. The bearings all looked brand new so I just need a seal kit and 1410 rear yoke to get this thing put back together.
Consider spending $100 on the shift rails from ORD. IIRC correctly with the home-brewed grinding set ups its possible to have front and rear in different ratios which would be bad news inside the t-case.
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:31 PM   #1029 (permalink)
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Consider spending $100 on the shift rails from ORD. IIRC correctly with the home-brewed grinding set ups its possible to have front and rear in different ratios which would be bad news inside the t-case.
I think that's only possible if you grind them too far. I'd certainly check all of that before doing anything fast paced.

I think from a timing and money standpoint I'll grind them myself and be very careful. There's tons of documentation on how to properly do it. I plan on having both doubler cases back apart after the UA or Moab trip to inspect everything after the long roadtrip and wheeling since they'll both be new parts in the truck.

I'll also try and force things (within reason) to engage low and high simultaneously in the driveway or on a slight hill before I put any road miles on the setup. I imagine if they do both engage, the case will simply lock up.
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Old 04-07-2018, 01:41 PM   #1030 (permalink)
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I think that's only possible if you grind them too far. I'd certainly check all of that before doing anything fast paced.

I think from a timing and money standpoint I'll grind them myself and be very careful. There's tons of documentation on how to properly do it. I plan on having both doubler cases back apart after the UA or Moab trip to inspect everything after the long roadtrip and wheeling since they'll both be new parts in the truck.

I'll also try and force things (within reason) to engage low and high simultaneously in the driveway or on a slight hill before I put any road miles on the setup. I imagine if they do both engage, the case will simply lock up.
I was going to grind mine, then at the last minute opted to purchase a set from jb custom fab when i ordered my triple stick. I also got the adjustable detents for some reasonget a quote from Jon for everything before you do anything. He might give you a deal for purchasing so much at once.
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:50 PM   #1031 (permalink)
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I was going to grind mine, then at the last minute opted to purchase a set from jb custom fab when i ordered my triple stick. I also got the adjustable detents for some reasonget a quote from Jon for everything before you do anything. He might give you a deal for purchasing so much at once.
In the interest of time (getting the case together), I'm probably going to take a shot at grinding them myself. I have a shakedown run planned for after the doubler goes in so I'll know if they do or do not work well and will have time to order replacements if they don't.
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:00 PM   #1032 (permalink)
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Some updates:




Preheated, welded, post-heated, blanketed.




Bray_D did an awesome job machining the tailhousing! I took care of shortening the NP241 tone ring from 1.40" to 1.15".










Painted and assembled!
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:04 PM   #1033 (permalink)
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Ecobox should be here Tuesday. Until then, I started doing a thing.........



More details to come later
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:19 AM   #1034 (permalink)
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so is it all chopped up and done with a bobbed box yet ?
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:12 PM   #1035 (permalink)
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No, it pretty much looks the same as it did in the previous photo because I've been working on making everything fit together. The fuel tank I ordered interferes with the diff pumpkin at full bump, the crossmembers I'm putting together for both the doubler-support and anti-wrap/carrier bearing supports have taken some dial-in and just other miscellaneous crap that takes forever haha.







I've also gotten the doubler almost entirely put together and installed. Shifters come today so I can wrap that up shortly.











Taking the day off tomorrow to hopefully slam everything else together with the help of a buddy and maybe even start on the bed. At the very least we need to start on the bed so I can get it oriented better while he's here since moving the bed around by myself is damn near impossible since I don't have a shop big enough for a hoist (doing the bed stuff in the backyard - so fortunate to have friendly, easy-going neighbors!).

I'll make a more detailed update when I finally get everything together haha. The plan is to shake it down Memorial Day weekend.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:23 AM   #1036 (permalink)
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So Iíve made a lot of progress on the time-sucker projects (fuel tank is now completely welded up and coated internally w/ Red Kote, driveshafts were mocked up and measured for dropping off at driveline shop, etc.), but I have a plan for all of them.

With that said, I need some advise/direction. ecobox only takes like half a quart of fluid and they recommend that it be changed with every oil change if running isolated from transmission. For the Ecobox, NWF recommended I tee into the transmission cooler line and run that into the ecobox Ė plugging the other two holes and removing the front output seal. By doing this, the fluid is not only shared with the transmission, but it is continually being replenished and keeps the ecobox much cooler.

With my previous automotive experience, Iím not comfortable flaring the tubing and running hoses/clamps over it. The two options Iím considering are flaring the tubing to 37į and using JIC/-AN fittings or using compression fittings. If thereís other options out there, Iíd love to hear what they are or what you all recommend or have had good luck with.

Certainly, Iíll be bringing some hose and clamps with me as a backup for field repairs Ė but I donít want that to be my main connection direction. Any help is appreciated!



If you've made it this far, here's a teaser as a reward :
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:13 PM   #1037 (permalink)
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I wouldn't be cheap, but what about making some braided lines with AN fittings? You could buy whatever fitting you need and bulk hose and custom make your own.
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:57 PM   #1038 (permalink)
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I'd rather not go that route, mainly due to cost. I priced it out before and I'm looking at well over $400 to do all the lines and I'd feel silly if I only did the return line and left the others hard lines lol.

The port on the doubler is only like 1 foot away from the return port on the transmission, so this shouldn't be TOO difficult. I even have my old 4L60e cooler lines I could butcher up to make the jump from transmission to EcoBox.

I wonder what the connection type of the transmission is (if you remove the spring-clip type threaded fitting. Perhaps I can unscrew that and tee the port at that point if it's a standard type thread?
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:39 AM   #1039 (permalink)
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It's an 1/4-18 NPS thread, kind of an oddball. You can rethread the trans case to something more common if needed.

A compression fitting tee should get the job done. Maybe restrict flow to the Ecobox, so most of the fluid is still dumped back to the trans.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:07 AM   #1040 (permalink)
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It's an 1/4-18 NPS thread, kind of an oddball. You can rethread the trans case to something more common if needed.

A compression fitting tee should get the job done. Maybe restrict flow to the Ecobox, so most of the fluid is still dumped back to the trans.
Rethreading seems like a good way to get aluminum shavings into the case. I'd rather not do that, but thanks for the information.

I asked NWF if they'd restrict flow to the ecobox with an orifice and they said that they don't restrict anything on theirs. Leaving the front input seal off the ecobox means the same amount of fluid still flows back into the transmission anyway since the tailhousing has a drainback, anyway.

I'll probably go the compression fitting route. Thanks for the ideas fellas!
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:04 PM   #1041 (permalink)
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I am about to install the transmission and t-case into my truck and will need to figure out the crossmember for the tranny. I cant use the original one because it was 2wd and the tcase adapter I have has the tall foot on it. I was also thinking of doing a mount similar to yours for the t-case just for some extra support. Your pics help me with different ideas.

What is your third crossmember for in the far back? And what is the two holes in the center of each crossmember for?
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:51 PM   #1042 (permalink)
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I am about to install the transmission and t-case into my truck and will need to figure out the crossmember for the tranny. I cant use the original one because it was 2wd and the tcase adapter I have has the tall foot on it. I was also thinking of doing a mount similar to yours for the t-case just for some extra support. Your pics help me with different ideas.

What is your third crossmember for in the far back? And what is the two holes in the center of each crossmember for?
Third crossmember is for the carrier bearing (2 piece driveshaft) and anti-wrap bar shackle mount.

All three crossmembers will be used to mount a full-belly skid, as well. That is what the two holes on each of them are for - mounting a front-to-back support tube between to support the belly skid.
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:57 PM   #1043 (permalink)
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Third crossmember is for the carrier bearing (2 piece driveshaft) and anti-wrap bar shackle mount.

All three crossmembers will be used to mount a full-belly skid, as well. That is what the two holes on each of them are for - mounting a front-to-back support tube between to support the belly skid.

Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:23 PM   #1044 (permalink)
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Rethreading seems like a good way to get aluminum shavings into the case. I'd rather not do that, but thanks for the information.

I asked NWF if they'd restrict flow to the ecobox with an orifice and they said that they don't restrict anything on theirs. Leaving the front input seal off the ecobox means the same amount of fluid still flows back into the transmission anyway since the tailhousing has a drainback, anyway.

I'll probably go the compression fitting route. Thanks for the ideas fellas!
Shavings would just fall into the pan, and they are too big to get past the filter. But I understand your concern.

Good to know about the fluid flow through the Ecobox. I'm doing the same setup in the truggy project.
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:28 PM   #1045 (permalink)
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Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
The factory t-case hangs down below the frame rails about 3/4" of an inch.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #1046 (permalink)
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A little late in the game but you can do like I did with my fuel lines, buy a roll of hard line and flare it for an. Buy the ferrules and nuts, flare it and done. If not high pressure you can use aluminum line, bends and flare easily.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:55 PM   #1047 (permalink)
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Good point, I never really thought of using aluminum line since it's low pressure. Easy to field repair too.

I think for ease, I'll go compression for now - but down the road I may redo all the lines the way you suggested. Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2018, 08:21 PM   #1048 (permalink)
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But what's your fav La Croix flavor?



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Old 05-23-2018, 10:03 PM   #1049 (permalink)
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got any pics of your cross member mount?
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:58 AM   #1050 (permalink)
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Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
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But what's your fav La Croix flavor?

You're lookin at it

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got any pics of your cross member mount?
Which one? Do you mean the brackets that are welded to the frame for the rear two crossmembers?


UPDATE / TEASER: Bed goes on tonight. Thank you all for being so patient

I'll post some quick pictures tomorrow and then work on a full update next week. Going wheeling on Sunday and still have a bunch of stuff to do to get it wheeling-ready.
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