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Old 01-15-2019, 02:29 PM   #1226 (permalink)
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Yeah, it's definitely not going to be cold rolled steel. It'll be something fancy.

Also planning on welding some bracing to the top of the skids to help with denting on top between the skeleton, as well.
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:58 PM   #1227 (permalink)
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Now, Id drawn up some flat belly skid plates in CAD a while back, so I printed them out 1:1 scale on our plotter at work and spray-adhesived them to some cardboard so I could cut them out and test fit them on the truck.








Overall, they fit extremely well. I need to add a small handful of clearances, add some more mounting holes, and move a couple mounting holes on each, but nothing too crazy. Heres what they looked like pre-changes:


Really nice looking design on the skids.

With that much flat span denting may be a factor. Tying into the frame and your support crossmembers will be important.

I used 3/16 AR400 for my skid and it has been great so far, no denting. It's a reasonable combination of strength and weight.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:46 AM   #1228 (permalink)
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It's hard to see, but I fully intend on tying it into the frame and crossmember. There are 8 holes on each frame rail that will get PEM nuts inside the frame and flat head bolts on the skid to tie it in.

Similarly, each crossmember will have nuts flush-welded into them so the skids can bolt to them, as well.

And finally, my buddy gave me the alloy name that he will be cutting these from. It's Duracorr 300 (click for datasheet) and will be 1/4" thick because that's a common size. Pretty beefy stuff and I'm willing to take the weight hit (especially since it's down low). I was only able to find mechanical properties of Duracorr 40/50 so I cannot yet compare the yield and tensile strength to AR400 or similar, but the hardness is the same and the Duracorr is through hardened whereas AR400 is only surface hardened. Hopefully this gives me the spring-back in the larger spans to be reslient against denting.

Side benefit of this alloy is that it's also corrosion resistant so I don't have to worry as much about repainting these suckers after every offroad trip/winter. #saltstate



Last note, the green skid under the engine and trans will be cut from likely just mild steel at a later date (likely by me with a grinder). That one shouldn't see a whole lot of action and is mostly for protection, not really 'performance'. I'm going to change the mounting method so the whole frame bolts to the trans crossmember and has some tie ins to the frame under the engine so the whole skeleton can be removed when doing engine or trans work. Also will make a relief for the oil filter and drain plug so I'm not dropping it for every oil change.
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Old 01-16-2019, 08:38 AM   #1229 (permalink)
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For the front plate, why not just run a remote filter and a Fumoto drain plug?
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Old 01-16-2019, 09:33 AM   #1230 (permalink)
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For the front plate, why not just run a remote filter and a Fumoto drain plug?
I have a fumoto drain plug already... interesting idea with the remote filter.

But that adds more potential areas for leaks and routing those hoses may be pretty difficult (plus the hoses could potentially get damaged by rocks.

I think the factory filter is short enough that it'd have to be a VERY unique situation for something to damage it since the driveshaft is just to the left of it (and down obviously) and the skid would be just to the right of it.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:49 PM   #1231 (permalink)
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Sounds like that skid material should be really strong as it's through hardened.

At 1/4" it will be quite heavy. Have you calculated the weight? You better be doing some bench presses in case you have to drop it on the trail.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:51 PM   #1232 (permalink)
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Each half should be around 65lbs. Not light, but I plan on making the holes at one end of the skid plate slotted so that I can start the fasteners on one end, then lift the other end into place so I'm not bench pressing 65lbs with one hand and trying to thread small(ish) fasteners into place with the other.

Frankly, I think with as long as they are, it'll be easier to hold in place with one end resting on the ground than if I split them up into 4 skids that are half that weight, but are so short I do have to hold them in place while I thread the fasteners. If that makes sense?
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:45 PM   #1233 (permalink)
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Yep, makes sense. But have you thought using a tab or slotted hole on one end to hold it up? Then you are not lifting and threading in one step, but lift, hook then thread when supported.
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Old 01-16-2019, 08:57 PM   #1234 (permalink)
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Yep, makes sense. But have you thought using a tab or slotted hole on one end to hold it up? Then you are not lifting and threading in one step, but lift, hook then thread when supported.
I had thought of the tab... but not a hook. I like that - I'm defintiely going to do that. Great idea!!!

Could even loop a hook around something above the skid and 'pulley' it into place.
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:06 AM   #1235 (permalink)
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This is about all I found quickly online, which indicates it is approximately ~100ksi yield.

Between that and the corrosion resistant properties, it seems like a solid choice, but not as hard as AR400 or AR500 plate.
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:53 AM   #1236 (permalink)
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This is about all I found quickly online, which indicates it is approximately ~100ksi yield.

Between that and the corrosion resistant properties, it seems like a solid choice, but not as hard as AR400 or AR500 plate.
Good find! Thanks.

And yeah, I knew it wasn't as hard as AR400 (about 75%). But it's over double the hardness of cold rolled steel plate by my quick searching. I think with the thickness and corrosion resistance, it will be a good choice.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:10 AM   #1237 (permalink)
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I had thought of the tab... but not a hook. I like that - I'm defintiely going to do that. Great idea!!!

Could even loop a hook around something above the skid and 'pulley' it into place.
Like an old spare tire lift?
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:20 AM   #1238 (permalink)
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Probably more crude than that, likely just a ratchet strap looped over something and ratcheted into place with the anchor somewhere else on the truck.

We'll see. Even if it's just a hanging hook I can lift the skid into place with and then start the bolts, that'd probably be the easiest.
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:26 PM   #1239 (permalink)
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Probably more crude than that, likely just a ratchet strap looped over something and ratcheted into place with the anchor somewhere else on the truck.

We'll see. Even if it's just a hanging hook I can lift the skid into place with and then start the bolts, that'd probably be the easiest.

You could do a couple L brackets at the leading edge on your cross members. Then you could lift the skid into place and then slide forward and the front edge would be retained. After that you just have to hold up the rear and get a couple bolts started.
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:50 PM   #1240 (permalink)
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Do you get hung up all the time? If not would the thick plastic like they use on rock buggies work? you could recess the hardware attaching it and would be way lighter than steel, plus it definitely is not going to corrode. Last time I looked a year or so ago I found a 1/2" 4x8 sheet for $120, my welding bench top 3/16" roughly 3x4 was $70
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Old 01-17-2019, 06:06 PM   #1241 (permalink)
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Think steel will slide, not dig in like plastic or alum.

Lots of ideas, but using a tire lift or similar near the center would allow any bolt to be put in first/last or even allow twisting for access.

Just ideas mind you, your truck
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Old 01-18-2019, 07:57 AM   #1242 (permalink)
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You could do a couple L brackets at the leading edge on your cross members. Then you could lift the skid into place and then slide forward and the front edge would be retained. After that you just have to hold up the rear and get a couple bolts started.
I started playing around with it yesterday. I think a ratchet strap looped over the round tube crossmember at the rear will work really well. I'll either weld a hook on top of the skid or have some slots cut in the skid when it's cut for the ratchet strap hook to latch into. Then just ratchet into place, start the rear bolts (have those holes slotted instead of countersunk) and lift the front into place.

I like the L-bracket idea but I don't want anything sticking below the skids if I can help it.

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Do you get hung up all the time? If not would the thick plastic like they use on rock buggies work? you could recess the hardware attaching it and would be way lighter than steel, plus it definitely is not going to corrode. Last time I looked a year or so ago I found a 1/2" 4x8 sheet for $120, my welding bench top 3/16" roughly 3x4 was $70
I wouldn't say I get hung up ALL the time, but there are moments where I wish I had flat skids so as not to worry about smacking the transfer case or important engine components. More often than not Im sliding the truck on the sliders and frame rails but there is evidence (missing paint) on the current crossmembers that I do get hung up from time to time. The plastic (UHMW) I have not found to be nearly as cheap as youre describing, PLUS you still need to back it with some sort of structure since the plastic will easily bend if not supported. Im also not sure how well this stuff holds up under a 6000lb truck rock buggies are usually half that.

Also, mind you the mounting hardware on these steel skids will be recessed too (except possibly one or two holes at the rear to get started in slotted holes).

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Think steel will slide, not dig in like plastic or alum.

Lots of ideas, but using a tire lift or similar near the center would allow any bolt to be put in first/last or even allow twisting for access.

Just ideas mind you, your truck
The UHMW plastic is known to slide really well over rocks. They still dig in, but its low friction and slides forward and then is self healing. Aluminum does gouge so Id be worried it wont slide as easily. This hardened stainless seems like the best choice considering Im able to get it for not much different cost than A36 steel.
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:13 AM   #1243 (permalink)
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Skids were put on hold to get the rollcage installed. If I have time before EJS, I'll also do the skids but I figure a rollcage keeps me safer

I would have had the entire interior out last night, but it took me 90 minutes to extract a front seat bolt (see first pic) and it was pretty late when I called it quits. I should have the entire interior out by tomorrow, hope to have some tubes mocked up by the end of the weekend, as well. Hell, maybe even tacked up! We'll see about that though



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Old 03-01-2019, 02:33 PM   #1244 (permalink)
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badass! Cant wait to see the cage, all interior or hybrid?
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:21 PM   #1245 (permalink)
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Full interior. I didn't want to mess with trying to make sure it seals properly considering the crazy weather we have here and the fact it lives outside.

The cage kit I have (pre-bent, lame I know) has provisions for a rear tie-in if I ever decide to back-half my truck someday, though.
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Old 03-01-2019, 03:21 PM   #1246 (permalink)
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Full interior. I didn't want to mess with trying to make sure it seals properly considering the crazy weather we have here and the fact it lives outside.

The cage kit I have (pre-bent, lame I know) has provisions for a rear tie-in if I ever decide to back-half my truck someday, though.
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Old 03-01-2019, 07:21 PM   #1247 (permalink)
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Any more details on the cage? mainly who you got it from?


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Old 03-01-2019, 09:36 PM   #1248 (permalink)
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t.e. designs on Instagram. Here's what it will look like installed:



Main differences being:
1) I'm not in the market for suspension seats at the moment so I'm going to make the factory front seats work (rear seat is going bye-bye and I'll likely make a cool storage thing out of that area)
2) The headliner can be reinstalled which will help keep the truck cooler in the summer and generally quieter.
3) I'm redoing the door bars for better ingress/egress.

Note: not pictured is the dash crossbar actually hides beneath the dash so that is even less obtrusive.
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Old 03-01-2019, 09:57 PM   #1249 (permalink)
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Im very interested to see how it works out. Thanks for the info


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Old 03-05-2019, 12:49 PM   #1250 (permalink)
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Anybody have a 2" OD die set I could borrow for a JD-squared bending die? I'm considering redoing the b-pillar to clear my factory seats and the main bars in this kit are 2". I'm sure it'd be fine to do with 1-3/4", but I figured I'd ask if it works out that I can do 2" instead.
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