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Old 06-25-2019, 01:47 PM   #1351 (permalink)
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I met the guy with the CJ for the first time during that trip, he's in the same wheeling club of the guy who's Bachelor Party it was. They're 43s, actually - it's insane how well it tucks them. It definitely has tons, manual tranny, ARBs front and rear. Guy has been wheeling for decades so he knows what works and what doesn't haha.
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Old 06-25-2019, 01:51 PM   #1352 (permalink)
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Here's something fun outside of my actual feature article

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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
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Old 06-25-2019, 05:15 PM   #1353 (permalink)
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If you consider the length of the slip yoke on the 241, the doubler is actually a bit shorter for the rear driveline. However, the front output is for sure further back than it is on the 241. I would plan on modifying both shafts when adding a doubler. Eliminating the slip yoke on the rear will definitely mean you need a slip rear shaft too.

[Snipped out pictures]

Running a Chevy 205 is definitely an option and allows you to run a pass drop axle, which are much more common!
Thank you, good sir!

Definitely would modify shafts, just for the travel needed. The IFS shit isnt going to move how it needs to. This would allow me to also run a 1410 joint on both sides, using NWF or ORD flanges, and on the axle as well. The Chevy axle is a lot more common, so I am keeping my eyes open for both options and can decide the case when the axle is chosen.

Enough of my couch swapping, you have a very nice build, and I am following closely!
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:40 AM   #1354 (permalink)
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No worries man, it's all part of the planning process. And thanks for the kind words!

I much prefer answering questions here to help people in the future rather than facebook where the tech gets lost almost instantly.

For what it's worth (this is for everyone), I can't say enough good things about Northern Drivetrain for drivetrain components. They're extremely knowledgeable and helpful and have been during the entirety of my 1410 front driveshaft conversion. Their prices are also quite good and if you're close to Wisconsin/Minnesota, you'll get parts super quick!

Here's the Northern Drivetrain parts list for doing this with 2.5" OD tubing:
SPI-3-28-557 :: Tube Yoke (Qty: 2)
NDT-00168 :: Universal 4.25 BC Flange to Tube yoke adapter
NDT-00169-312 :: Pilot Adapter (comes with the 00168 part I believe, just need to specify the flange type)
NDT-00141 :: Tube yoke adapter 3.5x.083 to 2.5 ID


Steps:
Carefully cut off the Double Cardan yoke and tossed it in the scrap bin after saving the u-joints.


Here's how one of the adapters works:




Pressed (hammered carefully) everything together making sure the yokes lined up:




Put the u-joint in. I wanted to check runout and Northern Drivetrain recommended I do so on the truck since I don't have a lathe. It worked like a champ! I was able to get it from over .060" runout to around .003" runout after adjusting and tack welding it in 4 places per weld on the truck.


The amount of travel this shaft has is laughable (no difference from before, I just find it hilarious )


Runout measurement method. I found the high point and then rotated that point down 90į and hit it with a hammer and block of steel. Then remeasured until I was happy. My goal was under .005", but if after like 20 tries I couldn't get that low, I'd have settled for .010". I got to .003" on my 5th or 6th try


Fully welded and painted it last night (no pics). I'll reinstall the u-joint and shove it in the truck tomorrow most likely. It'll give me a chance to double check runout because I forgot to mark the phasing on the two 1410 yokes before taking the u-joint out and I'll want to make sure it's still close to zero (my guess is that the runout will be crap if they're 180į out of phase and still very close to .003" if in phase).
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

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Old 06-26-2019, 08:05 AM   #1355 (permalink)
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Awesome instructions. Iíve been considering cutting costs by building my own shafts. I might give it a try after seeing that you had good luck. How much runout is acceptable? I donít want negative vibes on the road.


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Old 06-26-2019, 08:14 AM   #1356 (permalink)
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Awesome instructions. Iíve been considering cutting costs by building my own shafts. I might give it a try after seeing that you had good luck. How much runout is acceptable? I donít want negative vibes on the road.


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It'll be tough to determine if this method is acceptable because the runout at the slip joint is a lot higher (driveline shop did that weld, but balanced it). I don't plan to run this shaft on the road much. I'm retubing my GM Double Cardan shaft to use as my backup shaft if I ever need to drive somewhere in FWD (like if I grenade an R&P or something).

Obviously less runout is better, but I don't know how to determine how much is too much. It probably depends on the wall thickness, diameter, and weight of components too.

I do know there are ways to try and self balance stuff at home using hose clamps. I haven't tried it but may do so - there's some instructions online if you google it.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:11 PM   #1357 (permalink)
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driveshaft voodoo being cracked!
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:32 PM   #1358 (permalink)
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Slowly, but surely!
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:46 AM   #1359 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Awesome instructions. Iíve been considering cutting costs by building my own shafts. I might give it a try after seeing that you had good luck. How much runout is acceptable? I donít want negative vibes on the road.


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It'll be tough to determine if this method is acceptable because the runout at the slip joint is a lot higher (driveline shop did that weld, but balanced it). I don't plan to run this shaft on the road much. I'm retubing my GM Double Cardan shaft to use as my backup shaft if I ever need to drive somewhere in FWD (like if I grenade an R&P or something).

Obviously less runout is better, but I don't know how to determine how much is too much. It probably depends on the wall thickness, diameter, and weight of components too.

I do know there are ways to try and self balance stuff at home using hose clamps. I haven't tried it but may do so - there's some instructions online if you google it.

In general this is what we go by for pickup trucks and vans. Pardon the hillbilly screenshot
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:48 AM   #1360 (permalink)
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Presumably "front" runout refers to the transfer case or transmission side and "rear" refers to the pinion side?
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:23 AM   #1361 (permalink)
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Correct
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:37 AM   #1362 (permalink)
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Cool, so my work was well-within spec!

Can't say the same for the shop that did the other end. I didn't spend a lot of time measuring since I couldn't do much about it, but I think it was almost .050" out. Then again they balanced the whole thing, so it was fine before.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

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Old 06-27-2019, 01:13 PM   #1363 (permalink)
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Glad that helped!

It's more of a guideline than a rule, more runout = more weight to balance, like a tire
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:31 PM   #1364 (permalink)
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Pics of the 1410 shaft painted and put back together, never posted them.





Using the above runout guidelines, I got my old (now spare) shaft retubed at home and it doesn't even start to vibrate until 60-65mph without being balanced. I wasn't able to get this one as close to zero runout, but it's within .015" all the way down the tube.




This is the reason I'd need to be careful wheeling with the spare shaft, since it doesn't have nearly the amount of slip travel as my 1410 shaft.


I drove around a bit with only the front output engaged and one hub. Because of the welded front diff, I'm not going to be going anywhere more than 50mph - that one wheel drive gets sketchy sometimes
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

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Old 07-06-2019, 03:36 PM   #1365 (permalink)
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Those who follow me on IG or FB know I did some musical tires, too. The tire I picked up in Moab to get me home after slicing a sidewall (and my spare being not-highway-friendly) was almost to the wear bars. I recommissioned the nearly bald Moab tire as my new spare and replaced it with a single Milestar Patagonia 40 for $250 on Amazon (they only had one in stock, else I'd probably have bought 4). My plan is to run this with the other 3 good ProComps until they're bald and then the Patagonia will become my spare that is both highway friendly and has some tread on it. I also evened them all back out with 10oz. of Airsoft BBs and replaced all 4 valve stems, too.







Boring, I know - but it gave me some good experience at the best ways to mount and dismount tires which will be good knowledge on the trails should anything happen again.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:44 PM   #1366 (permalink)
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Finally, next weekend is my Bachelor party and we're going to Windrock to do some wheeling. Since they allow night wheeling, I finally bit the bullet and installed the LED pods I've had for some time.

To say making the harness was a lot of work would be an understatement, but I wanted to make each light easily replaceable (since they're cheapos) with a plug at each light and I also wanted them to be integrated nicely into the truck's fusebox.

Anyway... pics!

Harness in progress:


Harness completed, right before final install. I quick checked everything worked before routing it and I'm glad I did because there was a short I had to chase down.


For the front and rear, I mounted the lights across from the tire they were highlighting to maximize the light output. The ones under the cab would be in harms way to do so.

Fronts:




Middles:




Rears. The reverse lights are independent of the rock light circuit.


I also used an 11.1V RC car battery to make sure they were pointed where I liked before starting on the harness.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:46 PM   #1367 (permalink)
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Pictures of the test fitment of the harness after I fixed the short. I just did final harness install this morning, so no final pictures, but it would be the same just without the wires hanging down





Here's one with the reverse lights on, too. I'd like to put the aux reverse lights on a separate switch someday - but that's more than I wanted to figure out for this trip.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:49 PM   #1368 (permalink)
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Love the updates.

I need to get to mounting my tires on my wheels, too, now that my junk actually runs again!

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Old 07-06-2019, 09:45 PM   #1369 (permalink)
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Get to it!

Here's a night pic with them all properly wired up. Pretty stoked at how much visibility they actually add!
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:23 AM   #1370 (permalink)
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Looks awesome! I like that you used actual pods for the rock lights. I have used those a4or strips and usually ruined them.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:58 PM   #1371 (permalink)
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I bought a set of strips similar to the a4or ones and was unimpressed with the quality. I think these pods ought to hold up, but even if they don't I can replace them individually pretty easily and they're only like $6-8/ea. Pretty happy with them, I may also mount a 10" LED bar that I've got laying around tucked up near the winch plate so I can wheel without the headlights on (to keep from blinding spotters/the truck in front of me when climbing stuff), but we'll see. I'd wire it in with the rock light circuit, if I do. Not for this trip, though.

I leave Thursday after work and have some maintenance to do to my truck before then, plus packing.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:49 AM   #1372 (permalink)
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Rock lights look good! Night wheeling is always an interesting time
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Old 07-08-2019, 01:47 PM   #1373 (permalink)
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Especially on 72,000 acres of trails that most of our group has never been on and are constantly changing
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 07-08-2019, 04:52 PM   #1374 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Especially on 72,000 acres of trails that most of our group has never been on and are constantly changing
That sounds excellent, I'm going to have to road trip it out there some day.
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:01 PM   #1375 (permalink)
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If you do, let me know and I'll try and meet ya. It's 9 hours from me, so it's not awful - but does require some planning and at least a 3 day weekend.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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