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Old 01-14-2020, 12:56 PM   #1476 (permalink)
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It's 1.25" OD, but it's hollow. I never measured the ID, but I estimate it is around .2" wall thickness. I'll try and measure tonight.

The overall length is 36".
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Old 01-15-2020, 11:58 AM   #1477 (permalink)
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Got it finished up and fully welded/painted last night after flexing it out to make sure things cleared. Also got one of the two quick disconnects prototyped, but I'll be redoing it with stainless so it doesn't rust.










First impressions are that the truck is WAY more stable on sweeping turns. I'm very happy with it and now wish I added this years ago.
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:21 AM   #1478 (permalink)
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Will do. You run marine grease in the wheel bearings too? No issues with it overheating?

I will say that the Energy suspension bushings I replaced these with have a seemingly solid (no visible weld seam) sleeve and are yellow-zinc plated. I don't think the old ones were. So these ought to last longer. I used the provided energy suspension grease which is super tacky (like marine grease), so again - these will probably last longer.

Still, I've gone 5-6 years on my front springs before I needed to replace the rubber bushings and it wasn't due to rust - they had just finally worn out due to all the flexing and whatnot. I'd much prefer a rubber bushing on my leaf spring shackle if at all possible.

I got the truck back together last night. Ended up taking out the cut-down overload from the pack since the rear measured higher than the front hub to fender when I set it down on jack stands. Didn't get a level-ground measurement, but it looks close to where it was before.



Yesterday on my lunch break, I went down the rabbit hole of leaf spring slider boxes for the next iteration of my rear suspension. I'm seriously considering this route, now. Looks like a lot of people have good luck with these even on a street-driven rig. The biggest thing would be making sure to plate the bottom of the slider box so that they don't get damaged coming down on them off-road, but that should be no problem. They'd be a fully custom design if I go this route so I can run really beefy UHMW sliders (or upgrade to bronze if those don't last long enough). It started out as a brain exercise but now I'm really liking this as an option.
Run BRP PN 0775778 in the wheel bearings. The triple guard will work ok but the other PN is a marine grade wheel bearing grease. You can run it in the bushings as well if you only want to have one grease on hand. We use both being a BRP dealer we have ample stock of each. Triple guard in steering components and bushings, The marine WB grease on trailers and anything that may see excessive pressure and heat. They both can be found for about the same price adn just about every marine manufacturer offers both types, different names and PNs of course.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:53 AM   #1479 (permalink)
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Run BRP PN 0775778 in the wheel bearings. The triple guard will work ok but the other PN is a marine grade wheel bearing grease. You can run it in the bushings as well if you only want to have one grease on hand. We use both being a BRP dealer we have ample stock of each. Triple guard in steering components and bushings, The marine WB grease on trailers and anything that may see excessive pressure and heat. They both can be found for about the same price adn just about every marine manufacturer offers both types, different names and PNs of course.
Sounds good. I'll likely make the switch when I do my next bearing service. This stuff isn't any more expensive than the Valvoline Synthetic EP I'm currently buying at the local parts store - I just need to plan ahead and stock some.
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Old 01-20-2020, 11:32 AM   #1480 (permalink)
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Same here. Been using marine grease in my junk for a long time without issue

The truck looks great, it has progressed nicely over the years. I can't always see the pics but still following along
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:30 PM   #1481 (permalink)
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Another trick that's helped significantly is applying rtv between the hub and lockout, better sealing of the o-ring.... absolutely zero water gets inside. I try to pump grease into my spindle bushings once a year to help seal the next obvious point of intrusion.
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:53 AM   #1482 (permalink)
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Isnít there some tech on here about adding a grease fitting to the hub so that you can pull the lockout and pump in clean grease and drive out the water and trash?
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:15 AM   #1483 (permalink)
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Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:22 PM   #1484 (permalink)
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Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.


That makes sense. Sorry for the derailment


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Old 01-22-2020, 02:37 AM   #1485 (permalink)
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Isnít there some tech on here about adding a grease fitting to the hub so that you can pull the lockout and pump in clean grease and drive out the water and trash?
Yes there is. You put a zerk into your hub near the wheel mount surface... using a needle zerk so it's low profile. You change it to a normal zerk when you need to grease. I was going to do this, but never got around to it.

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Only for the spindle bearing/bushing. It threads onto the spindle once the locking hub is removed. I just made mine out of some scrap plastic at work and it self threaded itself the first time I threaded it on the spindle. The hub itself should not be packed full of grease otherwise it will overheat I believe.
If the over heating idea was true, then you wouldn't be packing trailer bearings full with a grease gun, i wouldn't think. Same style bearing, same principle spindle wise. I think it would be fine, but I've been wrong before...
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:36 AM   #1486 (permalink)
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That makes sense. Sorry for the derailment


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No worries, that's what this thread is for!

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Yes there is. You put a zerk into your hub near the wheel mount surface... using a needle zerk so it's low profile. You change it to a normal zerk when you need to grease. I was going to do this, but never got around to it.



If the over heating idea was true, then you wouldn't be packing trailer bearings full with a grease gun, i wouldn't think. Same style bearing, same principle spindle wise. I think it would be fine, but I've been wrong before...
Good point. Maybe it's solely to do with the locking hubs? I know they won't slide freely if overpacked.
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:24 PM   #1487 (permalink)
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No worries, that's what this thread is for!



Good point. Maybe it's solely to do with the locking hubs? I know they won't slide freely if overpacked.
I could definitely see the locking hub being an issue if packed with grease. Maybe if you're using drive flanges it's an ok idea?
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:54 AM   #1488 (permalink)
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Went to move the truck to the driveway last week and noticed a puddle of gas on the ground. One of the extended fuel lines had ruptured (not at a bend or rub area from what I could tell).

Instead of messing with the same method I used to extend the lines the 1st go around (boiling water to soften nylon line, tapping the quick connect to get it to slide in, etc.), I found this method online somewhere. It worked awesome.

Modified Quick-Grip clamp (or a caulk gun would also probably work) and brake flaring kit clamp which I rented. A tiny bit of petroleum jelly to make it slide in nicely. No drama and way faster.



I also noticed that the fuel line repair kits were just push-to-connect nylon fittings: https://smile.amazon.com/Fuel-Connec...dp/B07CYFJNM9/

Snagged one of each size to toss in the truck in case this were to happen remotely.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:21 PM   #1489 (permalink)
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Great build and great build thread. You have done a great job and should be very proud. I live close to C-U, surprised I never saw the truck around. Good luck going forward with it.
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:20 AM   #1490 (permalink)
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Great build and great build thread. You have done a great job and should be very proud. I live close to C-U, surprised I never saw the truck around. Good luck going forward with it.
I haven't lived in Champaign for 5 years now, which is probably a big part of it. It was never on 40s while I lived in Champaign, either - only 37s.

I do visit often though and I'll be down there with the truck for a meet on March 21, so come check it out!

Thanks for the kind words!!
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:38 AM   #1491 (permalink)
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This thing is sweet. I donít get in the Chevy forum often but Iíll be watching yours for sure. Definitely different like my build. The short wheel base looks awesome.
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Old 02-20-2020, 11:20 AM   #1492 (permalink)
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This thing is sweet. I don’t get in the Chevy forum often but I’ll be watching yours for sure. Definitely different like my build. The short wheel base looks awesome.
Thanks man! Means a lot coming from you. Your build is fantastic.
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:38 PM   #1493 (permalink)
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With the wheelbase-ectomy, was there ANY chance to save the original fuel tank?

I'm in a similar situation now, but it's a 34gal tank, and I don't want to lose my range.
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Old 03-08-2020, 04:04 PM   #1494 (permalink)
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With the wheelbase-ectomy, was there ANY chance to save the original fuel tank?

I'm in a similar situation now, but it's a 34gal tank, and I don't want to lose my range.
There's not really any way to save the stock fuel tank aside from relocating elsewhere (and it's a weird shape) unless you're only shortening the wheelbase a few inches. The rear axle will hit.

If you don't mind the tank hanging down more than mine does, a GMT400 suburban tank may be able to work and they're 42 gallons.
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:44 PM   #1495 (permalink)
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If you don't mind the tank hanging down more than mine does, a GMT400 suburban tank may be able to work and they're 42 gallons.
Does the stock fuel pump fit in that tank?

That would be amazingly easy then.
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Old 03-09-2020, 08:48 PM   #1496 (permalink)
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I'm not sure. But if you have a 99-02 with a fuel return system, I bet the 96-99 Suburban pump could be made to work.
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Old 03-09-2020, 08:56 PM   #1497 (permalink)
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While I was doing my sway bar I noticed my front spring perch was a little saggy.


So I burned in a new one. With a broken welding helmet so I did it with three sets of sunglasses and used the gun to block the arc


Then, since I broke a leaf spring last trip out, I took the good main leaf I had leftover and found a place for it to live.




It gives me spare bolts, too if I ever need them.



And then, finally, I started finishing up my skid plate system.




The skids will be made from Duracorr 300 which is a very hard Stainless Steel (harder than mild steel, but not quite AR400). Pretty stoked about that because now when the paint gets scraped off, they won't rust IMMEDIATELY lol.

Used the same cardboard cutouts to verify the new hole locations and sent the DXFs to my very gracious buddy who's cutting them for me.
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4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 03-09-2020, 09:14 PM   #1498 (permalink)
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Then, I did some fluid checking and packed up to head to Badlands for the NAXJA winterfest. I'm pretty certain there were over 150 jeeps there, it was insane. Met some cool people and of course watched some jeep people wheel, so there was plenty of interesting stuff happening





To say I'm impressed with my truck would be an understatement. I made it up 4 or 5 new obstacles I'd never been able to get up without winching and one-shotted some of the trickier obstacles I'd done before. There's still a couple that I wasn't able to conquer (the one pictured above, for example), so that'll be the goal for next time

Nothing major broke, but a shock eye did fall victim to the decade-plus of salty winters and separate from the shock body on the obstacle pictured above. I'll be taking this opportunity to run 12" travel shocks out back (rather than 14") and move the axle shock mounts in-line with the axle tube so that I stop snagging them on things.

Conquering the climb near the slab in one-shot. Did it again for video and of course it took two or three tries


Some gnarly line near the pond. I tried this before in the wet and wasn't successful. I made it a bit farther this time, but it got so tippy, I decided to back out and try a different line. Doing so lodged my rear axle tube between two rocks and I ended up winching forward. I'll share video of what I'd consider a valiant attempt soon.






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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist
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Old 03-09-2020, 09:27 PM   #1499 (permalink)
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Some perspective for the above line... it's gnarly. This obstacle is my new nemesis. I've already started thinking of other lines to try next visit.


Moved onto a different obstacle after the unsuccessful attempt. This is where my shock decided to become more than one captured piece.


Finally had the balls to climb this guy. But not after the first attempt had my front wheels in the air momentarily. Picked a better line and was able to properly crawl it.


The playground that used to be purgatory.


Finished up with a quick trail ride.


All in all an aweome trip with awesome friends. My buddy Steve broke a lockout and likely his rear locker on his 95 XJ and my buddy Kevin's power steering pump pulley cracked (plastic??!?!?) on his 99 XJ and would spin on the PS pump shaft when he tried to steer with any resistance. He limped it home while we followed after swinging into Lafayette, IN to grab a spare in case his exploded. Fortunately, it did not.

I'll post pictures of other peoples rigs and videos later this week.
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Shortened 17" w/Bed, AAM 14B FF / Grizzly, Dana 60 HP / Chromos, Anti-Wrap Bar
4L80e, EcoBox/205 Doubler, 40" Mickey's, Rock Sliders, Hidden Winch, Hydro Assist

Last edited by DMANbluesfreak; 03-09-2020 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 03-10-2020, 07:36 AM   #1500 (permalink)
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Lookin good, looks like fun to me!

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