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Old 11-25-2014, 06:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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96 1500 SAS crawler

FNG, First post, blah, blah, blah, longtime lurker, yeah... got that out of the way.


In the process of finishing up the SAS on my 1500.

As it sits now, (this section is kept 'kinda' up to date)

01' 5.3
93' Chevy NV4500
NWF Eco Box - 6 pinion 241 Planetary
NP205, 32 spline input and outputs

ORD SAS brackets
52's up front
15" front shocks

80' DRW Chevy D60, rotated solid inner c's, Yukon spartan locker, Yukon 4340 shafts, Yukon hardcore hubs, 5.38's
Long slip 2.5x0.250 1350 double cardan, 1410 flange Front driveshaft

01' Van DRW 14 bolt, ARB Air Locker, 5.38's
2.5x0.250 wall, 1350 double cardan, 1410 at the axle

Front and rear antiwrap

diy4x Shackle flip, bastard pack 63's in the rear

Mild Boatsides
engine cage, skins up front for easy swapping after damage
Roll cage with tube bed
Trimmed fenders, Lots of custom pinstriping

42x15x16.5 Pitbull Rockers

New style 24 bolt H1's with TWF Badger rock rings, Stazworks PVC inserts

Dual alternators, York Onboard Air






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Old 11-25-2014, 07:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tubbed the front fenders to make room for the shock towers and tires. Really want to try and jam a set of 42's under there with no more than 6" of lift. So I drafted everything up and figured out my ideal trim line.





and two current pictures.




And yes, I do enjoy taking pictures with my toaster

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Old 11-26-2014, 06:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not bad, Ill add that im jealous of your garage
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hell yeah. Beatin the tar out of those front leaves. Nice to see a bowtie flexing well in the front
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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At least you were honest about the toaster (what toaster) but how about the "ramp" of tires you made to get onto that flatbed....?

Nice work so far.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Not bad, Ill add that im jealous of your garage
I'm jealous of the garage too, It's my father in laws I live in the woods with a one car under the house garage, gets it done though!

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Hell yeah. Beatin the tar out of those front leaves. Nice to see a bowtie flexing well in the front
We'll see how long they go, I stepped up to a 4.5" bumpstop, after staring at the pictures I was a little scared

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At least you were honest about the toaster (what toaster) but how about the "ramp" of tires you made to get onto that flatbed....?

Nice work so far.
Hahaha Thanks, apparently I have too many of those surplus baja T/A's laying around for their own good

Last edited by cda; 11-28-2014 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm jealous of the garage too, It's my father in laws I live in the woods with a one car under the house garage gets it done though!


We'll see how long they go, I stepped up to a 4.5" bumpstop, after staring at the pictures I was a little scared


Hahaha Thanks, apparently I have too many of those surplus baja T/A's laying around for their own good
I'll take 4 of them if they're in good shape lol! This truck looks pretty good imo. What are the chances of getting the 42's in there with the 6"lift?
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll take 4 of them if they're in good shape lol! This truck looks pretty good imo. What are the chances of getting the 42's in there with the 6"lift?
42's getting under there with no additional lift, I'm determined. I drew up my cad drawings with 42's to trim the fenders. I also inboarded the front body mounts to try and free up some space at full lock with the front axle stretch and I have a JD2 m32 and notcher showing up today to start my boatsides, fenders, and cage.

I'm hoping that with the boat sides I'll be able to sneak the 42's in the front with the slightly longer bump stops. It was a looking a little tight at the firewall for 42's even with the front axle stretch





I've got a friend with the 41.5 radial pitbull rockers on regular H1's which happens to be the exact setup I'm looking to run, I'm hoping I can convince him to let me test fit his spare once I get the rocker panels cut off

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Old 12-02-2014, 04:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I designed the bumper as a center chunk and wings. I haven't decided if I'm going to pin the wings on and keep them removable, or If I'm just going to burn the whole mess together.




Started here, Wanted something strong, easy to burn and to be tucked as close to the radiator support as possible. I also wanted to have the winch IN the bumper without dropping it below. So I drafted the winch up and designed the bumper to fit the winch as closely as possible. Once I was happy with it I sent if off to be waterjet, because I'm lazy


Got my puzzle pieces back



Tacked everything together




then started finishing the frame mounts in the daylight. I decided to extend he mounting bracket all the way to the opening in the frame behind the factory bumper bolts, This should help prevent the bumper from rotating downwards under winching loads, the bracket also fits snugly against the top and bottom of the frame rail, further preventing any deflection.


Burned the fawk out of it


it ain't pretty, but it's functional

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Old 12-02-2014, 05:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Also in other news....



New Brakes


New Tubing notcher!


and bender!

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Old 12-08-2014, 04:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Welp, my parade got rained on pretty hard when I moved to NH. When I lived in MA anything a certain number of years old was emissions exempt, so once I got bored of blowing up 4.3's in the truck I swapped in a carbed sbc because we had them around and it had way more balls than the 4.3 did.

When I moved to NH they want the truck to pass emissions to get a sticker.

needless to say I've been feeling out engine swaps since I moved. I was looking at L31's and L29's as they would just bolt in and I would only need to re-add evap and the engine harness. Though running the vortec 350 which was the most likely swap just seemed archaic given the presence that LSX motors have and how easily they interchange parts and motors.

After holding out surfing craigslist for a while I found a smokin deal on a complete 5.3 pull, complete harness, PCM, and even both sides of connectors that tie to the chassis. I'm heading up to look at it thursday and hopefully I'll return with a complete 5.3 swap for my winter project

Now that the truck is going to be tore down for the winter I'm starting to think of options for mounting the motor and shifting the driveline back a few more inches to try and get the weight a little behind the front axle. This is going to turn into a pretty serious decision making process. With the tube bender arriving and getting ready to design the cage I'm going to have to decide on some long term stuff pretty soon

Currently toying with the idea of pushing the cab back 2" to make up room at the firewall for bigger tires in the future and facilitate my driveline push backwards

Last edited by cda; 12-08-2014 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 12-09-2014, 11:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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This build is freaking badass. Good luck with the engine purchase. It'll be nice to liven the truck up, I would think.
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Old 12-09-2014, 04:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This build is freaking badass. Good luck with the engine purchase. It'll be nice to liven the truck up, I would think.
Thanks man, I'm pretty pleased with the direction things have been going. Been trying to avoid doing things over and over again. I've already proven to myself that I can do that well
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Old 12-12-2014, 08:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Success with the new motor! Went up to the middle of nowhere Maine last night to check out the motor. The guy I bought it from had it in his 2000 1/2 ton until the frame rotted so bad that he gave up on it. His story was that the motor ran great and never gave him any problems so he took time to pull it with the complete harness intact to swap it into his 60's truck project but decided to go with a 6.0 because the 6.0 heads would handle his turbo setup better. Got up there and couldn't find anything immediately wrong with the motor so I went for it.

Every connector is on the harness, and where the harness connected out to the chassis he chopped off 12" of wire and saved the other side of the connector. He also gave me all the plastic bits from the engine bay and when he cut the harness from the truck he even saved the fuse and relay center and a foot of wire after it. I'm pretty optimistic that this is going to work out

Now I'm studying up on the harness and wiring diagrams to work out what I'm going to have to swap over from my old body style truck to get the emissions to play. So far I think I may get away with swapping the sending unit, as I need the EVAP pressure gauge from the Newer truck that's built into the sending unit, a evap canister,

To adapt my driveline I'm gonna have to pickup a flywheel that has the old school bolt pattern for the pressure plate with the metric bolt pattern and offset for the 5.3 as well as an LS2 pilot bearing that'll let me convert the shorter crank to the older trans.







excited to get this in!

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Old 12-15-2014, 09:43 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Started in on the harness, removed all the plugs and wires for the automatic as well as the AC, Secondary battery disconnect, and everything non motor related from the harness. Got all the switched ignition wires that I need to terminate or splice flagged. I'm gonna flag the PCM connections that need to be spliced into my cab wiring tonight, then it's going to be all about how to get the truck into my 6.5' tall garage door so I can have some heat for working on the harness and motor mounts this winter






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Old 12-15-2014, 09:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Car tires on 16 inch rims work great for getting the truck low.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:02 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Car tires on 16 inch rims work great for getting the truck low.
I had thought of another set of wheels, Car tires may be the trick!

I had a set of 4 16" DRW wheels that came with my rear axle, should never have sold them


I'll do some poking around at the jyard this week and see what I can come up with, then bug the tire store for some spanked 16" car tires
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:14 AM   #18 (permalink)
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That's what I'm rocking haha with 5.13s she's pretty torquey haha
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:03 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Truck ended up being a fairly shorter than expected, Pulled the valve stem cores in the back and ran 3lbs in the front, she drove right in





Got the motor prepped to be pulled, all lines disconnected except for the oil cooler lines at the filter. Just need to pull the bellhousing bolts and put a lift plate on it.


That's where I left off before I had to head out wednesday for a business trip. Hopefully I'll be back at it for a couple evenings before the holidays kick off and I have no time to work on it for a few weeks.

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Old 01-15-2015, 10:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Old motor is out, trans and tcase were pulled and separated, checked then I put the trans back up in the tunnel by itself to figure out where I need to mount the 5.3. Tacked in temporary motor mounts so I can figure out my final design for motor mounts. The rest of my mounts are supposed to show up this weekend. I took this weekend off to try and get the motor permanently mounted in the engine bay so I could work all the other little details.


I was successful in getting the motor pushed back most of the distance I wanted. It's alll the way back against the firewall now, to the point where I had to notch the firewall seam to get the top 2 bolts in, and cut a hole in the firewall for the 5th bolt hole. the motor is also now mounted a smidge lower in the chassis, should help keep the CG as low as possible.


working out the clearances for the water pump, heater core, and EGR



Beef motor mounts


Motor sitting on the temp mounts while I try and figure out what I need to clearance on the firewall


The only shot I have of how much further back the motor is mounted

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Old 01-15-2015, 11:11 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Since you're probably getting the ECM tuned anyway, why not delete the EGR? It's just another thing that could fail and set a code in the future.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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NH huh? We should wheel together sometime. Nice rig.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:26 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Since you're probably getting the ECM tuned anyway, why not delete the EGR? It's just another thing that could fail and set a code in the future.
To be honest I never considered it. With the whole purpose of the engine swap being to retain 100% of the emissions components, Seemed like removing emissions stuff would be one extra thing for the state to fuck me on when I went for inspection. :/ maybe I'll get brave after I get my first sticker and start messing with stuff.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:50 AM   #24 (permalink)
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To be honest I never considered it. With the whole purpose of the engine swap being to retain 100% of the emissions components, Seemed like removing emissions stuff would be one extra thing for the state to fuck me on when I went for inspection. :/ maybe I'll get brave after I get my first sticker and start messing with stuff.
Fair enough. Yeah if you're doing it for emissions (I remember you saying that but forgot before I posted that last message), don't take the EGR off. They might be sticklers, though I doubt they'd know it was missing unless it threw a code (which could be tuned out).
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:52 AM   #25 (permalink)
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NH huh? We should wheel together sometime. Nice rig.
I think I've seen you around ENH I've been wheeling the 2500 while this thing is down
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