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Old 09-23-2016, 10:35 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Grrrr. Little frustrated. A ton of pcm errors codes.
I hacked up the stock bin file. Changed to MPFI mode, updated everything needed to run in speed density mode. Some of this was waaaaay over my head but I just followed instructions. Still no run. I was lucky to find a bin file from 93V8S10 on gearhead.com that was very close to what I was doing. Minus the cubic inches and injector size. Made those changes to it but still no run.
Great spark, good fuel pressure, and pump behavior. Voltage at the injectors. But no injector pulse signal.
It wanted to run when spraying fuel down the throttle body.
I did notice an extreme drop in voltage during cranking, less than 8V. Cleaned up grounds, ran heavier hot wires. Charged the battery. Nice! Making progress. No more errors besides High MAP and O2 sensor. Played with timing but still no injector pulse!!
Now suspecting the ignition control module. The plug socket was a little damaged, like it has been banged around. Took the cap off, and the rotor fell apart in my hands. Strange because I had a good spark.??
Giving up for now, it?s late, too much JD. I am just making a mess of things, but will get a new cap/rotor and module in the morning.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:29 AM   #127 (permalink)
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OK... Cup of coffee, clear head, clean work area, new rotor, new ignition module, fresh bin file (from 93V8S10)...AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!!

And it sounds mean as hell!

I will try and do a YouTube video after some timing adjustments and a brake in run just to be safe. The motor was definitely a fresh rebuild just as the ebay seller said. I discovered some more goodies on it when finding TDC. Roller rockers and solid lifters. All seam to be set up OK ??. Sure wish I knew what cam was in it.


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Old 09-24-2016, 11:43 AM   #128 (permalink)
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All good!

Not much more I can do without a hard run on the street.


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Old 09-25-2016, 04:51 PM   #129 (permalink)
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ok..body on...go DRIVE
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Old 11-09-2016, 05:53 AM   #130 (permalink)
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I spent some time on a few details when waiting for the election results last night.

Make America Great Again! Let's build shit, make steel, bridges, roads, buildings, appliances, TVs, CARS and everything else we have forgotten how to do. No more cheap imports. No more hand outs.

Anyway...
I still had a nice clean shot from the box to the steering column. A rock solid collapsible shaft from Borgeson fit nicely.

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and a little brake upgrade, bigger booster and large bore MC to supply the one ton brake calipers. I'm trying a higher volume steering pump this time. I felt like the hydraulic assist could have had a better response at low RPM then the stock pump produced.

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Old 11-09-2016, 06:37 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Looking good broken!
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:28 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Got to have AC in TX.

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Old 01-06-2017, 05:22 AM   #133 (permalink)
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OK. The hood fell on my head twice, I nearly cut my fingers off once...Its time to get rid of the damn broom handle hood support.

So... did a little estimate on stroke and lbs force and ended up with (2) 45lbs gas springs, 16" max stroke. Fabricated a few small brackets and done. Worked like a charm! It actually lifts by itself once half way. Cost $35

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My C3 Corvette 1973-1982 Gas Hood Support Strut Kit
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Old 01-09-2017, 05:35 AM   #134 (permalink)
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I made my last big purchase. All downhill from here...expense wise anyway. Just a crap load of labor that I am enjoying.

Opted for the Atlas with a 3:1 ratio. The 2.7:1 NP TC worked well for me, so I matched that closely. With 37" tires and 513 gears, I had the torque on the rocks and could cruise a good speed on the trails.

So far it looks like a good fit. Might need some minor exhaust work. I am hoping I don't have to clock it down a few degrees. I would hate to have that awkward bulge sticking down on the skid plate. The cable connections are HUGE. They may not fit in the trans tunnel.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:25 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:09 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Well, the TC sure looks good level, but I think I'm going to rotate it down a few degrees.

The cables fit fine. It was the front CJ joint right up against the floor pan that bothers me. Not worth cutting into the floor pan. The cabin already makes me feel like I am wrapped up in a burrito.

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Old 01-13-2017, 05:52 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Hit the floor with a hammer and give yourself a half an inch there, not like you need to do anything past the immediate area of the yoke.

You'll regret the loss in ground clearance and skid plate fab annoyance a LOT more than you'll give a shit about a lost half inch in floor pan at the front edge of your seat.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
koh18 codog: 901, 4816 - crew: 928, 209, 4610
Mint17 pit crew: 4454, 946, 8199
koh16 codog: 2700 - crew: 572, 928, 4610
koh15 crew: 572


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Old 01-13-2017, 07:42 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Hit the floor with a hammer and give yourself a half an inch there, not like you need to do anything past the immediate area of the yoke.

You'll regret the loss in ground clearance and skid plate fab annoyance a LOT more than you'll give a shit about a lost half inch in floor pan at the front edge of your seat.
I bet its fiberglass. Hammer would not be good. I agree with modifying just that section though.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:49 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Well I guess that makes it a lot more work, then, relatively speaking. It's still worth it.
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#5, Legends #571, UTV codog #901
koh19 crew: 4632
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:59 AM   #140 (permalink)
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What a sweet build. It's nice to see a car body on 4x4 chassis done right. Looks straight out of mad max lol
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:44 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Alright you all. You talked some sense into me. It does look sweet as it is and the skid plate will be smoooooth. Like it should be. I guess I was too focused on the next big milestone of backing it out of the shop under it's own power. Rotating the TC was just an easy way to get to that point faster...and maybe since I haven't been wheel'n is sooooo long, I'm unknowingly building a street rod...shit is that what I have turned into??

I will look at getting clearance other ways. I can bump the floor up a hair, lower the cross member a hair, raise the body a hair, even get some smaller rubber mounts. I did not actually bolt up a '1350' CV joint yet so I may have more room than I think.

Hey, The driveshaft will make clearance itself when it needs to.

Thanks all, keep me on the right track!
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:03 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Keep up the good work, This build is thoroughly entertaining. I am also jealous of your crane, my garage only has 2x4s for the trusses so I can't copy it.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:04 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Good weekend!. While the body was down on the chassis I thought I would work on some interior details a bit. Managed jam, and I mean JAM, the atlas linkages under the OEM console along with a B&M ratchet shifter.

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Yes it's all metal (this year), even the floor pans.

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Only one problem. I no longer have heater/AC control. But I got a plan to move some gauges around and put some under the hood cowl and the vent control back where the gauges are now.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:08 AM   #144 (permalink)
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BTW, I think the B&M quick silver ratchet shifter sucks for this application. It will be fun to ratchet up and down 1st thru 4th, but having to lift the shifter up to go from Reverse to Drive and Drive to Reveres is awkward.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:31 AM   #145 (permalink)
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I had a B&M ratchet and gave it away. I used a non ratchet style for years after with no problems. the reverse detent can be ground out to slide between drive and reverse. as we all know not being able to hit reverse quick can bring the suck
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough
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Old 01-16-2017, 02:00 PM   #146 (permalink)
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I had a B&M ratchet and gave it away. I used a non ratchet style for years after with no problems. the reverse detent can be ground out to slide between drive and reverse. as we all know not being able to hit reverse quick can bring the suck
Thanks wilez5150, I was hoping to here someone had modified that shifter with success. Sounds like you still were not happy though. I'll have to study that crazy thing for a while to see if it's worth modifying.

Did you let it only slide from Reverse to Drive and Drive to Reverse, still having to pick it up to Park? I hate that it easily falls into the ratchet mode if you go past drive.
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:26 PM   #147 (permalink)
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I had a B&M star ratchet shifter that I hated. it was in the trash can when a friend rescued it. could never find the right gear. I went to a B&M sport non ratchet style that stayed in there for 15yrs(350/700R). they are the same shifter without the ratchet. I had a lokar on a TH400 in my buggy that I didn't like either. it didn't piss me off enough to rip it out thou

yes still had to pick up for park. not good to slam into park by accident. would move from drive to reverse with eze. prevented more than a few rollovers with 10 minutes of grinding
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough

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Old 01-16-2017, 05:07 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Interesting
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:28 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, I have only a few more days to bang out a few little things before returning to some other home and work projects.

Moved the gauges to the hood cowl to make room for the heater controls on the dash and some rocker switches for compressor, lockers and lights.

The 2" gauges ended up a little hard to see at a quick glance 3' from your face, but the vital signs are all there if I need them. Engine temp, trans temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, voltage and vacuum.

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That shit is fun! I can make things like that all day long.

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Old 01-17-2017, 06:23 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Do your wipers go low enough to clear any mud/dirt/shit away and still see the gauges? I think I would hate it, but I know packaging is getting tough!

Maybe stupid bright bulbs in them to light them better?
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