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Old 08-29-2019, 12:15 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I would say most likely yes. Most shorty or mid length headers bundle the tubes up pretty tight and dump between the center and rear exhaust ports so they aren't snaked all over the place. Plus, they don't hang down where they can get smashed on rocks. You can tuck your exhaust up nice and tight. Just check Summit or Jegs and see who makes what and which style will fit what you have going on.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:27 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Check out pro tuning lab for headers just picked up a set for my 94 blazer about $120 they seem decent for the price a dorman replacement was around $95 for just the side I needed.

Nice build always been a K5 fan
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:10 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Check out pro tuning lab for headers just picked up a set for my 94 blazer about $120 they seem decent for the price a dorman replacement was around $95 for just the side I needed.

Nice build always been a K5 fan
So i did. what i got was a suprsingly nice product for only $100 shipped. All stainless, all internally welded. Seems like a nice set of headers. Ill install them this week.



Finally welded up the right side slider.



Also, in stead of doing real work towards getting this thing on the road, i decided to start a front bumper.

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Old 09-13-2019, 12:36 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Good deal on the headers sounds like you should be up and running in a short while. Keep the updates rolling for us K5 fans
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:43 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Good deal on the headers sounds like you should be up and running in a short while. Keep the updates rolling for us K5 fans
Thanks! im going to.

So i finished up the front bumper last week.







This weekend i set out to make this thing move under its own weight. Which turned out to be a success! (after a few hours of work) The motor was totally off in a bunch of ways and i had to rectify it. The ignition timing was way off, so i set it to 10 degrees BTDC.

Then i kept trying to get it to idle on it's own and it was impossible. It ran super rough, but still much better than before i set the timing. Then i saw some black smoke puff out of one of the fuel screws.



So, i followed the edelbrock procedures and pulled both screws, cleaned them, blew compressed air into the chambers, and set them to 1-1/2 turns out. Fucker fired right up. Then I proceeded to set idle and the thing now runs great!

The only issue is that i cannot get it to idle below 950 rpms with out it surging. Ive tried a couple different times now to get it to idle correctly below 950 and its just not happening. Maybe it needs new spark plugs or someone more knowledgeable about adjusting these type of carbs to fiddle with it. Regardless, its now drive able.

Which i took a short lap around my yard only to find the brakes still very spongy and a serious leak coming from the trans.

When i put everything together, i sealed the transfer case to the clocking ring, but not the clocking ring to the trans adapter. At the time, i thought that adapter ran dry, but now i realize that was stupid.



So, i get to take the transfercase back off this week, yah!

Then i found the issue why my brakes are spongy. Its still this same rear brake line.



I had to cut off the original nut because it was frozen solid to the original axle brake line. I replaced it with the extended brake line from ORD and I originally single flared the hard line but it leaked. I double flared it, it leaked. I re-did the double flare, it leaked. I pulled it apart and teflon taped the nut, still leaks.

So now i get to replace this hard line completely, yah!

Well, atleast its running and moving now.
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:17 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Have you ground off the stops on that front 3R CV driveshaft? I know I had to on all mine. They don't like to droop very far stock. Nice work on everything BTW.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:27 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Your high idle sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. That capped port on the drivers side of the carb looks to be cracked. That port is straight manifold vacuum, put a good cap on it and see what happens. At what degree did you set the timing? Make sure you check it with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-12 degrees before should be a good start. Your distributor vacuum is hooked to the correct timed vacuum port, but if the throttle blades were open too far, and you set the timing with the hose hooked up you could be way off. You should be able to get the 10-12 degrees of timing and the idle down around 700 rpm with the vacuum advance unhooked and the carb port capped. There should be a large port on the rear of that carb, make sure it is plugged with no leaks, and also make sure your PCV valve is not a giant vacuum leak at idle.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:38 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Have you ground off the stops on that front 3R CV driveshaft? I know I had to on all mine. They don't like to droop very far stock. Nice work on everything BTW.
I didnt know this was a thing. But i guess i need to look up what i need to grind off, thanks!

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Your high idle sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. That capped port on the drivers side of the carb looks to be cracked. That port is straight manifold vacuum, put a good cap on it and see what happens. At what degree did you set the timing? Make sure you check it with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-12 degrees before should be a good start. Your distributor vacuum is hooked to the correct timed vacuum port, but if the throttle blades were open too far, and you set the timing with the hose hooked up you could be way off. You should be able to get the 10-12 degrees of timing and the idle down around 700 rpm with the vacuum advance unhooked and the carb port capped. There should be a large port on the rear of that carb, make sure it is plugged with no leaks, and also make sure your PCV valve is not a giant vacuum leak at idle.
Travis..

For timing, i followed exactly what you typed here. Pull vacuum off distributor, hook up timing light, mark the flywheel with a marker at the tdc indent, set to 10 degrees BTDC.

Ill check those hoses and caps for leaks now that you mention it. Im retarded for not thinking of this. I think youre 100% correct on that being the issue.
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:09 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Here are a few pics stolen from here on pirate. Its a poor mans way to get some more travel out of the 3R CV until you take the plunge on a 1350 or larger setup front drive shaft. If at all. It's all up to your needs.

I just dropped the front shaft off at the local driveshaft place to length and balance for a 79 k10 I'm "building" currently. I ground the shit out of mine to make it work after just a 4" BDS lift with no t-case drop.

If you take yours off and mess with it you will see where it needs to be cut and ground. It just looks like you will have a fair amount of front end travel and It would suck if it bound up and cracked your t-case or something.






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Old 09-23-2019, 01:04 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Also, make sure that carb adapter is tight and the gasket is good. I've had them loosen up in the past.
Travis..
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Old 09-26-2019, 07:53 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Here are a few pics stolen from here on pirate. Its a poor mans way to get some more travel out of the 3R CV until you take the plunge on a 1350 or larger setup front drive shaft. If at all. It's all up to your needs.

I just dropped the front shaft off at the local driveshaft place to length and balance for a 79 k10 I'm "building" currently. I ground the shit out of mine to make it work after just a 4" BDS lift with no t-case drop.

If you take yours off and mess with it you will see where it needs to be cut and ground. It just looks like you will have a fair amount of front end travel and It would suck if it bound up and cracked your t-case or something.





Thanks, took care of it.



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Old 10-04-2019, 05:14 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Also, make sure that carb adapter is tight and the gasket is good. I've had them loosen up in the past.
Travis..
This was the culprit. I did the carb cleaner check and the whole base was leaking. Tried tightening everything and one bolt was stripped. I pulled it all apart and this is what i found.



so i went ahead and just ordered a whole new adapted plate kit with gaskets. Since the ones on there were totally trashed.

Also i found out, that making sure the whole brake system didnt leak and bled every corner using three different methods/tools, that the master cylinder was bad. So i went ahead and bought a new ACdelco one with bleed kit for $40 shipped.

Now, im waiting on parts. So i started on the rear bumper and swing out tire carrier. I bought the EMS offroad swing out tire carrier kit for like $110 shipped.

Kindof winging the design. Since what i envisioned didnt work out. My main drawback is that im working with a 7" radius bender die. So the corners cant come out super tight like my imagination. But so far its looking real good. Gonna come out looking like the old quadratec TJ bumper i used to have years ago.





After two days of fiddlin' i got this.







My plan is to put the swing out rod right in front of the passenger brake light on the straight bar. But before that im going to put a bar under neath the main bumper bar. Cut both fender ends back 6" and run a tube straight to the frame behind the ORD spring mount. Then work in a 2" hitch mount in the middle of it.
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Old 10-04-2019, 05:59 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I love these Blazers. We are looking for a nice CUCV for my buddy.

PS: your shocks are upside down
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:22 AM   #64 (permalink)
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I love these Blazers. We are looking for a nice CUCV for my buddy.

PS: your shocks are upside down
I thought you were pulling my chain. but i looked it up and youre right. Bilstein suggests mounting them with the stickers right side up (and all my sitckers are upside down). But that begs the question why?

Keeps dirt out of the seals? Is it because of gravity pulling on the fluid? Either way, i guess ill flip them all one day when im bored. ugh
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:55 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Not all shocks are made to mount in either direction. Iirc, internal valving can be designed to work in a certain direction (ex; a shock wont work as a stabilizer and vice versa).
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:14 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I thought you were pulling my chain. but i looked it up and youre right. Bilstein suggests mounting them with the stickers right side up (and all my sitckers are upside down). But that begs the question why?

Keeps dirt out of the seals? Is it because of gravity pulling on the fluid? Either way, i guess ill flip them all one day when im bored. ugh
Just about every performance shock is mounted body up, shaft down. Look at every shock, coilover, bypass, etc on race vehicles.
Reduces un-sprung weight for one reason.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:17 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Bumper is looking good. Not sure if you know, but make sure you bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will likely never get a good pedal and you will be pulling your hair out and want to set the truck on fire. I knew a guy that didn't do the bench bleed and was doing all kinds of crazy shit trying to get it working right. I showed him how to do it and after that, all was good.

The Blazer is coming along nicely, keep at it.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:36 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Not all shocks are made to mount in either direction. Iirc, internal valving can be designed to work in a certain direction (ex; a shock wont work as a stabilizer and vice versa).
Not exactly. Valving works no matter which way the shock is mounted. Compression is Compression and Rebound is Rebound.

The shock vs stabilizer depends on application. You can use 2 shocks if they are opposing. But stabilizers are typically valved 50/50 and have no gas charge
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Old 10-04-2019, 10:15 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Bumper is looking good. Not sure if you know, but make sure you bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will likely never get a good pedal and you will be pulling your hair out and want to set the truck on fire. I knew a guy that didn't do the bench bleed and was doing all kinds of crazy shit trying to get it working right. I showed him how to do it and after that, all was good.

The Blazer is coming along nicely, keep at it.
Travis..
Yup, i got it, thanks
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:06 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Replaced the seal between the clocking ring and the trans adapted Saturday with some help.

Still waiting on more parts so i went ahead a finished up the bumper. Still need to build the swing out tire carrier portion and i want to weld in a 2" hitch receiver.







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Old 10-07-2019, 05:15 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I know the bend radius was wider than you wanted, but it looks great.
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Old 10-10-2019, 05:50 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I know the bend radius was wider than you wanted, but it looks great.
Thanks! We will see if this design holds a 40" tire. My plan is have a saddle like thing on the other side which will cradle the swing arm in place when the latch is locked.



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Old 10-10-2019, 07:44 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Can you add some gusseting under the pivoting part of the rack if needed?
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:46 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Can you add some gusseting under the pivoting part of the rack if needed?
I thought about that, but im unsure if it will do any good. If the leverage gets so much that its twisting the tube to distortion, then it means ill have to ditch the entire concept of tying the swing out portion into the bumper.

I thought about cutting the swing arm in half and off setting the tire to the passenger side to reduce leverage. But i mocked it up and it didnt look great and it totally obscured my passenger brake light.

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Old 10-10-2019, 10:29 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Replace the swing out tube with rectangle tube. Mine already deflects a bit with a 37, hi lift and 10 gal of gas. I broke it on a real hard hit, mine is thin wall.

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