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Old 10-11-2019, 02:19 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Im really fucking disappointed in this Diy4x clocking ring I installed. The fucking thing leaks like a sieve from the transmission side. I originally installed it with nothing on that side accidentally. Then pulled everything back apart and sealed it with RTV and it still leaked. So I pulled it back off again (takes me a little under 3 hours each time) and sealed it with RTV and a paper gasket. STILL FUCKING LEAKS LIKE SHIT! LIKE STEADY STREAM OUT!

So I'm pissed and call Diy4x to see what's up and they have no fucking idea. None. I ask about it maybe the unused holes on the ring? They aren't giving a surface to seal too. And it clearly looks to be leaking from there. His suggested fix? "Just shove RTV in the hole"

Just shove RTV in the hole.

Fuck me. I'm sure that will work great.



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Old 10-11-2019, 03:30 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Wow, that's a whole pile of lame...i can't believe they've gone this long with no other complaints on these though. Could yours be machined wrong?
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Old 10-14-2019, 06:50 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Wow, that's a whole pile of lame...i can't believe they've gone this long with no other complaints on these though. Could yours be machined wrong?
No, its machined exactly as intended. My personal theory is that the majority of people installing these have th400 or 700r4 transmissions and their adapter outer diameter covers these holes and seals it properly.

Their advice to just shove rtv i nthe holes didnt work and it still leaks.

My plan is to go buy a thing of 16ga steel from tractor supply and cut out a section that basically covers the entire clocking ring. Then pull the transfercase, again, install and just RTV the shit out of it.
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:01 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I got alot done this past week. Installed a new carb adapter kit and it literally fixed all issues with the motor. Thing runs amazing now, starts right up with in 3 cranks. Installed a new master cylinder and the truck will lock up all corners with a stiff stomp. Although it still feels soft and a buddy who knows square bodies says its inherent in these old vacuum setups. Hence why people swap to hydroboost. Which makes sens since i bench bled the new master cylinder, then bled at the MC once installed and bled all four corners and made double sure there was no air in the lines.

I pushed to finish up the swing out portion of the bumper this weekend and get it on the road.











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Old 10-14-2019, 07:04 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I need to pick up shorter 5/16 bolts for the latch and clean up the mount some. Ill get to that this weekend. The mounting of the tire has really leveled off the suspension too. The 64's sat maybe 3/4" higher in the rear compared to the 52's. But once i put the tire on the carrier it totally leveled it out. Looks mean now.

Then i flipped the shocks and found out it have an interference problem. So i will have to drop down this mount and inch or two.



Then i decided to take it around the block for a few laps. Found out i need hydro steer really bad and that my front axles seals are totally shot. Knock one thing out and two more pop up



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Old 10-14-2019, 07:14 PM   #81 (permalink)
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No, its machined exactly as intended. My personal theory is that the majority of people installing these have th400 or 700r4 transmissions and their adapter outer diameter covers these holes and seals it properly.

Their advice to just shove rtv i nthe holes didnt work and it still leaks.

My plan is to go buy a thing of 16ga steel from tractor supply and cut out a section that basically covers the entire clocking ring. Then pull the transfercase, again, install and just RTV the shit out of it.
Can you weld the holes closed you don't need, then grind flat?
Sounds like a lot of effing around
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... Well first off FUCK JEEPS..
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:19 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Jb weld the holes if you don't need them. Jb quick will set in 5min
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:22 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Looks great though! I want a square body again
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... Well first off FUCK JEEPS..
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:22 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Gotta love the last 15% of the build taking up 40% if the time. Looking great as its coming together.
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:44 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Can you weld the holes closed you don't need, then grind flat?
Sounds like a lot of effing around
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Jb weld the holes if you don't need them. Jb quick will set in 5min
I didnt think of welding the holes up. That might work. I thought about JB weld, but ive always had mixed results with it sealing long term. Shit if im pulling the TC back off, im doing something permanent.
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Old 10-14-2019, 07:46 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Gotta love the last 15% of the build taking up 40% if the time. Looking great as its coming together.
Thanks. I knew the small stuff was what was going to hold me back. Its easy to throw won tons on something, its hard to get it to move right afterwards
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Old 10-14-2019, 08:04 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I didnt think of welding the holes up. That might work. I thought about JB weld, but ive always had mixed results with it sealing long term. Shit if im pulling the TC back off, im doing something permanent.
I would be nervous welding them you could warp the whole thing.
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Old 10-15-2019, 04:19 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I've read about others having the same sealing issues and the remedy has been a heavy bead of RTV between the clocking ring and the adapter. Hasn't been limited to the th350 either, a couple of them had a 700 or a 4L60E. Use rightsuff if you're not already....

diggin the build btw.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:25 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Can you measure and put a freeze plug in the extra holes with some anerobic sealant?
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:43 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Ok, so i solved the adapter leak issue. I bought this shit: permatex 'The Right stuff (thanks skunked):



Which squirts out like cheese wiz and i filled every hole in the adapter plate with. Then put two circles around it to cover the adapter and that fixed it. But i had to pull the TC again, which sucked..... again. Great product though, im never going back to regular RTV.

Then i had to replace the front axles seals. Which was a fucking bitch and took like 6 hours to do. No pics as i hated the whole job.

Then i drove it around my backs roads only to have the Power Steering pump totally die on me. The Original Owner gave me another pump and i guess i shoulve known it was a sign to just replace it.

So i bought a good replacement from Rock Auto only to find out as i go to install it, that its a hydro boost pump and wouldnt work. FML.

Then i decided to put the top on as its been raining and i it seems im going to have to add a spring in each 64" pack. The weight has them sagged and now the truck isnt level anymore. I cant imagine what it would look like fully weighted down for a trip. I have some overload springs that i pulled off the 52" springs before i installed them and i think im going to put these at the bottom of the 64" packs.



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Old 11-13-2019, 04:52 AM   #91 (permalink)
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So i bought a good replacement from Rock Auto only to find out as i go to install it, that its a hydro boost pump and wouldnt work. FML.
The power steering pumps are the same, just swap out the reservoirs if you haven't already..
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:19 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Nothing productive to add, but kudos on the tire mount. Nice fab work and I'm respectfully stealing your latch idea lol
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:37 PM   #93 (permalink)
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The power steering pumps are the same, just swap out the reservoirs if you haven't already..
I did not know this. I will install it this weekend then.

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Nothing productive to add, but kudos on the tire mount. Nice fab work and I'm respectfully stealing your latch idea lol
Thanks! im not a great fabber, or even good for that matter, but i appreciate it.
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Old 11-18-2019, 07:25 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Digging the tire mount. Nice to see someone else in VA
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:49 AM   #95 (permalink)
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So i finally drove the thing to the gas station 5 miles away to put a full tank in it. 4 miles of it as gravel road, the last 1 is pavement. One drive and i have a whole new list of shit to fix.

-The gas gauge works.

-The speedometer doesn't work.

-The truck rides great, very soft and handles large bumps well.

-Not much body roll at all.

-The tail gate rattles like crazy and it loud as shit. I need to figure out a way to fix this.

-The spool is much more road-able than when i had one in my TJ years ago.

-The SM465 shifts up just fine, but does not like to go from 2 to 1 (not L) if the truck is moving. I wonder if this is just something i have to deal with.

-I get horrible death wobble if i hit a bump at any speed above 25 mph. This may just be something lose in the front suspension. Or it could be lose KPs. Or it could be my caster angle. Or it might be the tires. I might try to take off the add-a-leaves in the front and see if i feel a difference. My experience with death wobble, if its a tire issue, that the death wobble will occur at certain speeds as you accelerate to that speed and disapeer when you get beyond it. Since it doesnt get the wobble at certain speeds, only if i hit a bump, i suspect its something other than tires.

-I STILL have air in the brakes. Im kindof at my wits end on this. There is no air at the bleeders, new master, bench bled master, bled the air at the master connections. No leaks at all and none at the drums. I suspect there is air trapped in this thing here:



From my reading, this is a device to make sure if a front brake line is cut, you wont lose all your brakes. I dont know if this is just a CUCV thng or not. But, im a toyota guy, and there are precise instructions on how to bleed the LSPV in their systems. But i have never read a bleeding procedure for this contraption. I thinking of removing it and just putting a T in there. Thoughts?
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:10 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Re Brake Proportioning Valve: I had a similar issue with my 76 K10. There should be a small pin (maybe 1/8" diameter) either under a rubber cap, or sticking through it. Make sure that pin can move freely, and then hold it IN while bleeding the brakes.
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:25 AM   #97 (permalink)
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So i finally drove the thing to the gas station 5 miles away to put a full tank in it. 4 miles of it as gravel road, the last 1 is pavement. One drive and i have a whole new list of shit to fix.

-The gas gauge works. Be thankful, that's rare

-The speedometer doesn't work. Those are pretty simple cable driven speedos, should be an easy fix. Plastic gear in the transfer case?

-The truck rides great, very soft and handles large bumps well.

-Not much body roll at all.

-The tail gate rattles like crazy and it loud as shit. I need to figure out a way to fix this. Wore out striker pins? I've built up door ones using electrical tape, or not be a cheap ass and but new ones

-The spool is much more road-able than when i had one in my TJ years ago. Wheelbase makes a difference

-The SM465 shifts up just fine, but does not like to go from 2 to 1 (not L) if the truck is moving. I wonder if this is just something i have to deal with. My 1 ton has to be under 5 mph to hit 1st, I guess they're all like that

-I get horrible death wobble if i hit a bump at any speed above 25 mph. This may just be something lose in the front suspension. Or it could be lose KPs. Or it could be my caster angle. Or it might be the tires. I might try to take off the add-a-leaves in the front and see if i feel a difference. My experience with death wobble, if its a tire issue, that the death wobble will occur at certain speeds as you accelerate to that speed and disapeer when you get beyond it. Since it doesnt get the wobble at certain speeds, only if i hit a bump, i suspect its something other than tires. Something in the suspension for sure, sloppy KPs I thought makes it wander, not death wobble, but could be wrong. I'd be checking spring bushings/front suspension like you said. and steering box. Have you put a steering box brace in yet?

-I STILL have air in the brakes. Im kindof at my wits end on this. There is no air at the bleeders, new master, bench bled master, bled the air at the master connections. No leaks at all and none at the drums. I suspect there is air trapped in this thing here:

From my reading, this is a device to make sure if a front brake line is cut, you wont lose all your brakes. I dont know if this is just a CUCV thng or not. But, im a toyota guy, and there are precise instructions on how to bleed the LSPV in their systems. But i have never read a bleeding procedure for this contraption. I thinking of removing it and just putting a T in there. Thoughts? Leave the Prop valve. Helper with channel locks, or some tension with a c clamp on the pin that freeak mentioned while bleeding should get the brakes working better.
See red text
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:53 AM   #98 (permalink)
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See red text
The old school chevy tail gates dont have striker pins. They have this style



The bleeding im going to try the C-clamp thing and another round of bleeding. Il going to try a different method of bleeding too, we will see.

The speedo issue is the spring in the guage i need to replace.

I have a steering brace on the new steering box installed. Im gonna tighten every thing down again and check caster angle. Then go from there.
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:06 AM   #99 (permalink)
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The old school chevy tail gates dont have striker pins. They have this style
Ahh, couldn't remember. Is there/should there be any rubber bumpers between the tailgate and body to dampen it? Only problem might be excessive tension on the latch making it a bitch to open.
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:23 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Re Brake Proportioning Valve: I had a similar issue with my 76 K10. There should be a small pin (maybe 1/8" diameter) either under a rubber cap, or sticking through it. Make sure that pin can move freely, and then hold it IN while bleeding the brakes.
Thanks for this suggestion, im gonna try it.

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Ahh, couldn't remember. Is there/should there be any rubber bumpers between the tailgate and body to dampen it? Only problem might be excessive tension on the latch making it a bitch to open.
There is none there now. So ill have to think up something.
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