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Old 04-18-2019, 07:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1985 CUCV Blazer 1-Ton Build

I going to doucment my build as i can only find two other similar Blazer builds on here. I will be stealing heavily from both of them (Kay86K5 and badassblaze).

My plan is to have a 1-Ton truck that can carry me, my wife, our dog, possibly a youngin and all our camping stuff to and from the trails. So street legal in my state (for an antique vehicle) but still able to get on a harder trail if needed. My plan is to have a fully functioning and tested vehicle by Labor Day weekend.

I was going to do a First Gen 4runner instead but, Jesus Christ, the prices for them out here on the east coast is fucking ridiculous. Square body chevys arent any better, but atleast i can find deals on them and the parts i need.

So after watching the market i was able to find a sweet deal and i jumped on it. How it looked when i barely limped it home into my driveway.




1985 Chevrolet CUCV w/ 61k miles
350 GM goodwrench crate motor with Edelbrock carbureter
TH350 with Manual Valve body
NP208
10 bolt front
14 bolt FF rear w/ gov loc
Rancho 2-1/2" lift
34x12.5 general grabbers

The body has two rust spots, but not too bad. I found a pin hole or two in the floor boards. But the frame looks perfect. Its a miracle to find something that non-rusted in my experience of looking at square bodies under the $5,000 range. The motor runs great too, has plenty of oil pressure, didnt overheat on the way home and was very responsive to pedal input.

The truck had been in the seller's family for like 20 years or something. Passed from his dad, to his uncle then to him. And the seller drove the truck as-is as a commuter vehicle for a few years 40 miles each way until recently when he got a newer truck.

The truck came with a trailer and a truck bed full of spare body and drive train parts. I chucked alot of the stuff, but i will sell off all the unused drive train and body parts.

So i gave the guy the money, had the wife drive the truck and trailer, and i drove the blazer the 20 miles home.

It was the most dangerous drive i have ever made in my life.

That fucking manual valve body transmission can suck a dick. If you are stopped, you have to slam it down into first gear and floor the gas or else the truck stalls. Then you have to hold the fuck on and hope nothing important is in front of you. The brakes are mushy too, so to stop the thing you had to pump and stand on the brakes, which makes the motor surge and push forward. I almost got pushed out into traffic trying to cross a highway.

Fuck all of that.
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sooo...... plans to be done by labor day:

Chevy Dana 60 kingpin front axle swap 4.10 ratio (picking up saturday)
ORD crossover steering
SM465 manual swap w/ full hydro system (picking up saturday)
52" swap w/ 6" shackles front with DIY4x4 Abomb
63" swap w/ ORD shackle flip rear and moved front perches
Bumpers and sliders
38x13x16 TSL's (might change)
Paint job
Maybe some creature comforts
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I started tearing into it and trying to find out what i really had.

Here is the interior when i got it. Full of dirt, straw and oil soaked dirt and straw. What a mess.



Here it is cleaned up and the old school leather seats installed. I actually really like these seats, very comfortable IMHO. Only the driver seat has a tear in it. I think they are staying.



Here i got it turned around and the top mounted. Need mounting bolts for everything and the ant colony living in it killed off.





Spent the afternoon yesterday checking on some things. Found the motor casting numbers and found out that it is a GM Goodwrench crate motor. The numbers (to me) read 100660(?)8. Which is good for me i think as they have a good reputation for being reliable, but not a good hotrod motor. Doesnt matter as im not looking to hot rod the motor at this time.



Then I opened up the rear diff and found the ratio to be 11-45 (4.090909). So i dunno where this axle came from. Maybe someone changed them out, im not sure. The more research i find opening stuff up its more of a mystery. Oh well.

Thats it for now until after the weekend. Ill have more parts and some panels replaced.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IEATRKS84 View Post
Sooo...... plans to be done by labor day:

Chevy Dana 60 kingpin front axle swap 4.10 ratio (picking up saturday)
ORD crossover steering
SM465 manual swap w/ full hydro system (picking up saturday)
52" swap w/ 6" shackles front with DIY4x4 Abomb
63" swap w/ ORD shackle flip rear and moved front perches
Bumpers and sliders
38x13x16 TSL's (might change)
Paint job
Maybe some creature comforts
Man if you were closer, I could make you a sweet deal on some parts, traction bars, leafs, stock shackle flip parts, etc....
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Man if you were closer, I could make you a sweet deal on some parts, traction bars, leafs, stock shackle flip parts, etc....
gonna send you a PM since im driving to Harrisburg PA saturday to pick up parts
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
nice roach.
 
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Good start, at least somebody got rid of the 3.07 geared 10 bolt axles and 6.2 diesel that truck left the factory with. Following along for updates.
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Old 04-18-2019, 08:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Good start, at least somebody got rid of the 3.07 geared 10 bolt axles and 6.2 diesel that truck left the factory with. Following along for updates.
didn't all the cucvs have 4.56's?
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
nice roach.
 
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not the k5s, they had 3.07 10 bolts f&r
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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not the k5s, they had 3.07 10 bolts f&r
This. They are just a 1/2ton blazer with some military add ons.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Says up top , 14 bolt FF , so who knows what it came out of.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Nothing to add but i picked up some parts and did some small stuff over the weekend. Cut the exhaust and removed the hitch setup they had.

This week i plan on replacing a few body panels and tearing out the steering column to get in the new pedal assembly. I think im going to do the manual swap before i jump into the suspension.

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Old 04-22-2019, 01:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Not much CUCV left in that K5, not that it really matters. The CUCV K5 would have been a 6.2 diesel, TH400, NP208, and 10-bolts front and rear from the factory.
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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small update.

I replaced a few panels



I started the manual swap. I got the old pedal assembly out, but i think im doing it wrong. It was a PITA to get the old assembly out and i feel like the new one wont go in. I dropped the steering column and pulled the front seat to get it down. But i feel like the column needs to come down alot more to get the new assembly in. Should i remove the sheet metal panel surrounding the column on the firewall? The stuff i have seen online i dont feel like mentions this. Or am i just gonna have to muscle the new assembly in?



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Old 05-01-2019, 06:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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It's a lot of little work but if you'll pull the instrument cluster so you can see / work from the top and bottom it'll make things easier.
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It's a lot of little work but if you'll pull the instrument cluster so you can see / work from the top and bottom it'll make things easier.
And pull the column out totally.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Cool project. Leave or add something military, just because.
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Old 05-03-2019, 04:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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And pull the column out totally.
So this is what i had to do. Nothing else was letting me get everything in right. But getting that column out was a PITA. i unhooked everything and i could not get the column to budge. I watched some videos, searched a little, then i stuck my face up underneath the brake booster and found some nuts buried in the firewall and totally covered with that black goo covering my firewall. I dunno if that is a chevy thing, a military CUCV thing, or someone did it aftermarket, but i had to dig out this goo shit just to get a wrench on the nuts. Took forever and i finally got them out and pulled the column. As you can see here, it was kindof hard to find the nuts if you cant see them (there is two in there somewhere)



So then i got the column out and started rocking on the install. I measured the shit out of where the master cylinder went, got it to where i thought it was perfect, and cut the hole. But when i did that i knocked some of that goo away and found that my firewall already had dimples for the mounting bolts and master cylinder knockout from the factory. Duh. I had read about some had them already, but didnt check. It wouldve saved me like 10 minutes of measuring.



Stopped to get some better mounting screws with locknuts. Jeez, this pedal install will take me like triple the time to actually swap the transmissions.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Always loved the look if these!
Runner prices in Canada are no different
Jumped on a 2nd gen for my brother 30 mins after it came up and 3 others were waiting to see it. They definetly hold their value
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Put hydroboost on it if you're playing around under the dash.

I couldn't find a squarebody one when I was itching to do mine, I made one from a '00 1ton van fit using the bracket off the back of the old vacuum booster and modifying the pushrod to work.
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Old 05-09-2019, 06:33 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Put hydroboost on it if you're playing around under the dash.

I couldn't find a squarebody one when I was itching to do mine, I made one from a '00 1ton van fit using the bracket off the back of the old vacuum booster and modifying the pushrod to work.
im holding off on hydro boost. I want to see how the truck does with out. Since hydroboost seems like a huge PITA. But i might do it when i install hydroassist. Just get it all done at the same time. But that wont be until the fall.

Just to update, got the old trans out. TH350 with manual valve body and a non-lockup TC. Gonna make some good money off this on the CL. Saturday, if it doesnt rain, ill have the new Trans set up in.




Installed the new flywheel and clutch in the meantime.

Also, i was reading up about possible floor board modifications. Since im installing a clocking ring for the NP208. Im not going full flat, bu only lifting it 2-1/2".

But i got sucked into the low-hump/high-hump question. So i went out and found out that the truck has the high-hump trans tunnel with the manual hole dimple already from the factory. I dont know if that is a CUCV thing, or all blazers are like that.



Lastly, I finished up the pedal install. But i didnt use the two legs on the clutch assembly to mount it to the firewall. One of the legs wanted to go RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE of the fuse box (which goes through the firewall, so you cant just relocate it). The other leg went right next to the hole for the clutch master and the hole for the wiring to pass through. I thought that drilling a hole there would weaken that area worse than it is. So i didnt install them.

But i read somewhere that if you DONT install these legs, it can lead to a cracked firewall. Even though i havent read of anyone cracking the firewall due to this. Anybody ran into this?
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:23 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The dimpled trans hump (and firewall) seem to be an '85+ thing on all of the trucks.

The firewall dimples for the pedal legs didn't interfere with anything on my '91. I doubt you truly need the legs, the pedal effort on my hydraulic set up is way easier than the mechanical in my old '80.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:55 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Very nice, damn near identical to what I have going on. I bought a really nice old guy type, 100% stock 87 TBI 350 Blazer. I have everything for the 465 swap, a dana 60 for the front, a 70 for the rear. Gonna run 4.56 gears and end up with somewhere in the neighborhood of 38-40" tires. I did an ORD 2.5" shackle flip already, and Superlift 2.5" springs up front and it's on 315/75r16 General A/Ts just like yours at the moment. Like you, I'm looking to get most of this done this summer.
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:13 AM   #23 (permalink)
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So, i had a busy weekend and i was fighting the rain the whole time. I called a bunch of my friends to come help me put in the SM465, because i knew it would be tough by myself, and everybody bailed on me. So i set out to do it by myself.

Here i am dragging it into position. Fucking pain in my ass even on rollers.



Here i am working it into position. I got it like within 1" of fully installed and my neighbor came over and helped me get it all the way in, for a few beers in payment.



So i got it in, and using the DIY4X clocking ring and no body lift, i got some floor board contact.



So i cut a little out. I dont think im going to weld anything up. I think im just going to put some heavy rubber mating over this, seal it with RTV and screw it to the floor board.



The rain was trying to come down, but i was able to pull the rear axle.



This is how i ended saturday.



Sunday i spent it cutting off the shock brackets. Im going to wait until i have the axle installed before i weld new ones on. I dont know exactly how im going to mount them, because the 64" springs will move the axle back 4" or so. But i installed the spool, and degreased the axle to prep for paint and the final touches, and the rain just came down and fucked everything up. So i called it a night Sunday.



I was going to do a mild shave on the 14 bolt. But, looking at it, i feel like im wasting my time unless i install a full shave kit on it. So i decided i hold off on that.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I was going to do a mild shave on the 14 bolt. But, looking at it, i feel like im wasting my time unless i install a full shave kit on it. So i decided i hold off on that.
It's worth it to cut the lip off the bottom and grind the edges round. 15 min with a sawzall gains almost an inch of clearance.
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:30 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I didnt get much done this weekend because of the heat and other things going on. But i did button up some things from the manual swap, like mounted the reservoir. Which, surprisingly, the hydro reservoir connects right to the windshield washer spray motor mounts.

Buttoned up the 14 bolt, with a quick spray paint job. Kindof pointless out here on the east coast as it will be covering in mud the moment it leaves my driveway.



Removed the rear suspension and started knocking the mounts off. Took a while, after watching a few youtube videos and getting frustrated with these fucking rivets. So i just cranked my air compressor up and went at them with my air chisel. Which made quick work of them, but destroyed a chisel bit within 6 rivets. Today ill be able to knock the rest of them off quick once i get more bits.



I bought this set of aftermarket forward spring mounts, but i think im going to reuse the factory set, since i didnt mangle them that bad during removal. I need to move the front mount forward just an inch or two and this larger mounts will hinder that. Atleast i can use the mounting hardware.

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