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Old 09-09-2019, 06:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Suspension Calculator Questions

I am early in build planning on a 1980 K10 Truggy. My general idea is to keep it road legalish but really only keep the cab and title and custom build the rest. Very loosely planning on 40's, 14 bolt, Dana 60, SBC, SM465, NP203/205 doubler, 4 link rear, 3 link front, boatsides, all pretty standard stuff for an ultimate build but all subject to change depending on what parts I can get a deal on.
I have read the God of suspension, 4 link for dummies, Mark Ortiz Chassis, and other threads about 4 links, (and to a lesser extent 3 links) and have a decent idea of what I want the rear to look like, but it all pivots on the COG. So in Triaged's calculator (thanks Triaged for that great tool) do I use vehicle COG in the 4 link or sprung weight COG? If it is sprung weight, how do I measured (not estimate) the sprung weight. I know how to use trig and wheel scales to get total vehicle COG, but that method seems impossible to use with no suspension on the frame.
I also read something about wanting the roll axis to be flat and lower on one either the front or back or it will have bad street manners. I don't quite understand the reason for that, although I do understand roll steer. Speaking of roll center height, I have read both that you want it low and that you want it high. I understand that without a sway bar you would be more stable with a high roll center but could you make it higher than the COG so that the body would anti-roll in off camber situations?
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Now for the front. I have found very little details on how to use the calculator on the front. Does anti-squat become anti-lift, or pro-lift? Then when braking is the ant-squat number become anti-dive or pro-dive on the front?

I understand that you need to go full hydro steering to use a 4 link front (or a more complicated steering linkage system) so I am planning a 3 link with crossover steering to keep it simple. This brings me back to roll center height. I understand that raising and lowering the panhard link raises and lowers the roll center so I can set it wherever I want it (as long as the engine doesn't get in the way.) But again should it be lower or higher than the rear?
And has anyone ever used a watts link up front? Seems like that would be the trick to fixing the roll center in place but would it make for steering complications?
One other thing on 3 links. Can the lower links be somewhat triangulated? Not talking about a 45 but more like going from the outer limit on the axle to inside the frame? I know that a wishbone upper would cause binding with a panhard bar, but how much could I pinch the lower links before it binds?
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