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Old 02-10-2020, 06:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aisin View Post
That entire suspension needs redone down to cutting off the mounts and welding new ones on. That truck is fucking hack. Let us know where you live before you decide to drive that shit box on the street.
Fuck me for trying to get the information to fix it am I right? If you don’t have anything valuable to contribute why bother.
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Old 02-10-2020, 10:18 AM   #27 (permalink)
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That's a big mess . My recommendation if you want to keep the same ~6" lift

Front:
1. Cut off the blocks, remount front hangers to stock location
2. Get 6" lift springs. Make sure the shocks are correct lenght.
3. Fix the sway bar. Get this kit, the description explains why you need it https://www.offroaddesign.com/swayba...gm-trucks.html
4. Make sure the brake lines are correctly set up (not too short, doesnt touch tires, brake lines are attached to the frame and not hanging loose)


Rear:
Does it have a double cardan joint in the driveshaft? I am assuming not, and the methhead added the axle angle shim so that he did not need to get a longer driveshaft, and now the driveshaft angle is fucked up.

1a. remove the shim from axle, keep blocks, get new u-bolts
or
1b. remove shim and blocks, add a shacle flip (about same lift as with blocks)
2. get correct lenght driveshaft (assuming you DONT have double cardan)
3. get longer brake hose, attach the brake line junction to stock location, inspect brake lines for damage



About the driveshaft angle, your axle angle looks like the bottom picture. If you don't have double cardan, then it needs to look like the top picture.
In the top picture, transmission and pinion angle are parallel.
In the bottom picture, pinion angle is pointing towards transmission.
Better explanation https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...ble_carden.PNG





Edit: oh god I just noticed the steering stabilizer. It's supposed to mount to the bolt on the drivers side end on the tie rod. They had the wrong lenght stabilizer so they welded a new tab and on the wrong side... WHY It doesn't even need the stabilizer to drive forward and considering that any kind of safety or correctness was not a priority on this build, so why would they even make the effort
Edit2: Oh wait, IT HAS TWO stabilizers regardless, that extra one makes no sense and is a hack job. I would remove it because it adds stress on the hollow tube and might bend it.

Last edited by Catrik; 02-10-2020 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 02-10-2020, 11:47 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Fuck me for trying to get the information to fix it am I right? If you dont have anything valuable to contribute why bother.
oh sweaty, youve come to the wrong forum
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Old 02-10-2020, 01:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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oh sweaty, youve come to the wrong forum
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Old 02-10-2020, 05:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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oh sweaty, youve come to the wrong forum
You are both from VA. Are you close? Maybe you could help the guy fix it instead of being an ass?
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Last edited by Cheepin; 02-10-2020 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 02-10-2020, 07:29 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Catrik View Post
That's a big mess . My recommendation if you want to keep the same ~6" lift

Front:
1. Cut off the blocks, remount front hangers to stock location
2. Get 6" lift springs. Make sure the shocks are correct lenght.
3. Fix the sway bar. Get this kit, the description explains why you need it https://www.offroaddesign.com/swayba...gm-trucks.html
4. Make sure the brake lines are correctly set up (not too short, doesnt touch tires, brake lines are attached to the frame and not hanging loose)


Rear:
Does it have a double cardan joint in the driveshaft? I am assuming not, and the methhead added the axle angle shim so that he did not need to get a longer driveshaft, and now the driveshaft angle is fucked up.

1a. remove the shim from axle, keep blocks, get new u-bolts
or
1b. remove shim and blocks, add a shacle flip (about same lift as with blocks)
2. get correct lenght driveshaft (assuming you DONT have double cardan)
3. get longer brake hose, attach the brake line junction to stock location, inspect brake lines for damage



About the driveshaft angle, your axle angle looks like the bottom picture. If you don't have double cardan, then it needs to look like the top picture.
In the top picture, transmission and pinion angle are parallel.
In the bottom picture, pinion angle is pointing towards transmission.
Better explanation https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...ble_carden.PNG





Edit: oh god I just noticed the steering stabilizer. It's supposed to mount to the bolt on the drivers side end on the tie rod. They had the wrong lenght stabilizer so they welded a new tab and on the wrong side... WHY It doesn't even need the stabilizer to drive forward and considering that any kind of safety or correctness was not a priority on this build, so why would they even make the effort
Edit2: Oh wait, IT HAS TWO stabilizers regardless, that extra one makes no sense and is a hack job. I would remove it because it adds stress on the hollow tube and might bend it.
Hey this is that good shit, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. The rear is still on the fence I haven't checked the driveshaft and I'd like to get it sorted soon once I get this front taken care of I plan on taking it to a driveline shop. The front is too short and is barely even in, I can see splines.
But First things first the front lift because that is fuckered. I'm picking up the new leafs tomorrow to address actual springs and going from there.
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:59 AM   #32 (permalink)
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You are both from VA. Are you close? Maybe you could help the guy fix it instead of being an ass?
#1 hes like 4-5 hours from me it looks like

#2 im naturally an ass

#3 why are you volunteering me? i got my own shit to work on.

#4 i gave him advice and posted his pics for him. Bout the only thing any of us can do for him at this point.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:47 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheepin View Post
You are both from VA. Are you close? Maybe you could help the guy fix it instead of being an ass? <a href="https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0" alt="" title="flipoff2" >:-)</a>
#1 hes like 4-5 hours from me it looks like

#2 im naturally an ass

#3 why are you volunteering me? i got my own shit to work on.

#4 i gave him advice and posted his pics for him. Bout the only thing any of us can do for him at this point.
Typical NOVA person you’re all asses. Lol jk I appreciate your effort more than the dude that just came in here took a shit on my post and left.
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Old 02-11-2020, 07:08 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mack_Murray View Post
Hey this is that good shit, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. The rear is still on the fence I haven't checked the driveshaft and I'd like to get it sorted soon once I get this front taken care of I plan on taking it to a driveline shop. The front is too short and is barely even in, I can see splines.
But First things first the front lift because that is fuckered. I'm picking up the new leafs tomorrow to address actual springs and going from there.
Oh yes the front driveshaft will probably need to be longer too.
If you're taking it to a driveline shop then it could be worthwile to have them make the rear driveshaft into double cardan shaft. It will be stronger and last longer because the u-joints wont be at so high angle. But they are professionals and will know what's best for your situation/budget when they see it in person
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Old 02-12-2020, 04:51 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I picked up my springs yesterday going to order a T-Case Drop kit and that Sway bar kit as well. Get that squared away.
Was curious if anyone had a picture of the front mount where it bolts to the frame. I'm trying to see what all I need to attach this back correctly.
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:00 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I picked up my springs yesterday going to order a T-Case Drop kit and that Sway bar kit as well. Get that squared away.
Was curious if anyone had a picture of the front mount where it bolts to the frame. I'm trying to see what all I need to attach this back correctly.
Just a picture of where the leaf spring mounts to the frame in the front? If so i can get one when I get home.
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:26 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Just a picture of where the leaf spring mounts to the frame in the front? If so i can get one when I get home.
Please if you could and the bolts that attach them.
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Old 02-12-2020, 07:04 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Please if you could and the bolts that attach them.
The mount is riveted to the body mount and the bottom of the frame. I can get a pic tomorrow if you need. But this pic should work.
For some reason I can't copy the image. But scroll down a little and there is a good pic.
http://dannix.net/lib/truck/front-clip-swap
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Last edited by Cheepin; 02-12-2020 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 02-12-2020, 07:24 PM   #39 (permalink)
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The mount is riveted to the body mount and the bottom of the frame. I can get a pic tomorrow if you need. But this pic should work.
For some reason I can't copy the image. But scroll down a little and there is a good pic.
Chevy K10 truck restoration Phase 3: Front Clip Swap | Dannix
That'll work man thanks.

Now how the hell am I going to bring mine back to normal from that. I was afraid they'ed be riveted in.
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Old 02-12-2020, 08:01 PM   #40 (permalink)
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That'll work man thanks.

Now how the hell am I going to bring mine back to normal from that. I was afraid they'ed be riveted in.
Just bolt them in. Or you could use this kit. I believe it works for stock length springs also.

https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17715
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Old 02-12-2020, 08:15 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Now how the hell am I going to bring mine back to normal from that. I was afraid they'ed be riveted in.
Cut, grind, weld
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:18 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Please if you could and the bolts that attach them.
I forgot to snap pics, but it looks identical to the link posted. Rivets suck, I'd definitely get a mount that bolts through the frame.
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Old 02-27-2020, 10:34 PM   #43 (permalink)
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All those welds are cold. You can tell because the weld bead looks like it's sitting on tops of the metal and not actually melted into it. If there's any other welds like that around your rig youll need to address them. They're probably cracked already you just can't tell.

Aide from that the setup would work if it was braced down low, but is definitely not ideal. Probably isn't square and will cause some pretty wicked wander on the road.
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Old 03-13-2020, 02:04 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Well figured I'd give everyone I small update. Nothing has really changed since I last posted. Been trying my best to address the issues with the thing.
Believe I'm going to end up doing a shackle flip on the rear and remove the blocks all together.
Take the rig to a driveline shop figure out whats best for getting proper angles there.
And the front I'm hoping to procure another body/frame mount because mines cracked. It may be able to be welded IDK just have to see what I can find.
She'll be running the roads in a few weeks. Beware

Last edited by Mack_Murray; 03-13-2020 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 03-13-2020, 08:47 AM   #45 (permalink)
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All you need is an angle finder to figure your yoke angles. If you do a shackle flip, your pinion will rotate up. Depending on what block you are removing, you may or may not need to put shims between the springs and spring perches to correct it. If you do need them, get steel shims. Aluminum shims are garbage.
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Old 03-13-2020, 04:15 PM   #46 (permalink)
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And the front I'm hoping to procure another body/frame mount because mines cracked. It may be able to be welded IDK just have to see what I can find.
She'll be running the roads in a few weeks. Beware
I'll be cutting a pair off. Maybe this weekend.
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Old 03-15-2020, 05:34 AM   #47 (permalink)
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And the front I'm hoping to procure another body/frame mount because mines cracked. It may be able to be welded IDK just have to see what I can find.
She'll be running the roads in a few weeks. Beware <a href="https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" >:-)</a>
I'll be cutting a pair off. Maybe this weekend.
You doing a set of beyond 52s or something? If you do I’d be interested in them.
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Old 03-15-2020, 07:48 AM   #48 (permalink)
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You doing a set of beyond 52s or something? If you do Id be interested in them.
52 willys wagon on a K20 frame. So don't need the body mounts and fabbing new hangers on the winch plate/bumper.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
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You doing a set of beyond 52s or something? If you do I’d be interested in them.
52 willys wagon on a K20 frame. So don't need the body mounts and fabbing new hangers on the winch plate/bumper.
That’s wicked man. Well how much would you want for em?
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:30 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Something else I found out today was hoping someone may have insight on.
I ordered a rough country sway bar drop bracket and couldn’t get it to fit. Any idea why that may have been?
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