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Old 08-22-2015, 08:31 PM   #1026 (permalink)
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Most desirable pinion bearing

What is the most desirable housing/pinion bearings? Ball pinion bearing or taper roller pinion bearing? Are there pros/cons to either from a strength, oiling, longevity, availability, etc. perspective? If the answer lies somewhere in this thread, I'm okay with being told to keep reading or being directed to that page. Thanks so much for this thread, very informative! I just discovered these axles in a junkyard the other day, really excited about joining the eaton club
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Old 08-22-2015, 08:52 PM   #1027 (permalink)
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Another Eaton 60 joins the family!
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:02 PM   #1028 (permalink)
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This may have been covered before. Did any of the van type bodies use a wider H072? Looking at a project that will need an extra 6-8" of track width.
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Old 08-23-2015, 09:07 PM   #1029 (permalink)
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Yes. I just scrapped one. 70" wms.
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Old 08-23-2015, 09:29 PM   #1030 (permalink)
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Well at least I know they are out there
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:04 AM   #1031 (permalink)
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Motorhomes built on a P30 chassis will have them. I've found some Single rear versions at the "PicknPull" / "U-pull" type yards in some SRW Bread vans also.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:36 PM   #1032 (permalink)
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Yes. I just scrapped one. 70" wms.
Was it in usable shape? Hate to see these scrapped.. They're getting hard to find.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:38 PM   #1033 (permalink)
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Azzy, any luck on converting the manual?
Not yet. Sorry. Been too busy with other things. I'll post it up here as soon as I get it done.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:15 PM   #1034 (permalink)
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Was it in usable shape? Hate to see these scrapped.. They're getting hard to find.
yep. nobody wanted it. sent the housing and shafts to be turned into kia rios.
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:31 AM   #1035 (permalink)
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What size drill bit do you guys use to drill the hubs for 14 bolt wheel studs? I think I remember reading it's a 39/64th but can't seem to find that post again.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:31 PM   #1036 (permalink)
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So a buddy was doing demo on a site for work. They took apart this merry go round of some sort. H072 in the middle. He saved it before scrap but the tubes and yoke ears were torched off. Still good gears.
Turns out it has 5.13s but no locker. And it has been greased it's whole life. Looks nice under the grease.

So am I reading the date stamp as 03-1949? If so that badass. I've got a 55 dually eaton in my jeep now.


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Old 09-19-2015, 09:33 PM   #1037 (permalink)
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Wish I could find one
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Old 09-21-2015, 12:01 PM   #1038 (permalink)
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I found all of my Eaton housings and chunks using Craigslist. I posted a wanted ad, looking for 1972 and older GM truck parts. Ended up with 2 4.56 chunks that I'm not going to use.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:58 PM   #1039 (permalink)
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Hello all, so I've been assembling a small collection of Eatons for my project/diabolical master plan. I've been tearing down my first one and hit my first impasse, getting off the backing plate to flange bolts. The dust shield and inner weld make it difficult, near impossible to get sockets in. An open end wrench (undesirable) fits, but this thing is heavily rusted inside. Wrench just digs in or begins to round the bolthead. I'm going to let it soak in penetrating oil for a few days, see what happens. Maybe apply some heat. Otherwise any advice getting it off? ie, torch, grinder, cut the whole shebang off, etc.

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Old 09-22-2015, 10:26 PM   #1040 (permalink)
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I figured I'd give some info on this one. It's a h052 I believe, from a srw c20. According to the ring gear, vintage 1963. The ring gear also says 7-36, a 5.14:1 gear . The WMS to WMS is 65", while the housing from either backing plate flange is 53". Thus each hub/drum to the mount surface is 6" wide. As can be seen it has the ball pinion bearing. The other one I've got is a h072 from a c&c truck c30 dually 63" width taper roller bearing with load bolt and I believe a 4.57 gear. And to get a sense of how rusty this one was inside the drum, just look at this poor drum brake adjuster. I'll give someone a good deal on it, and throw in some tetanus for free!

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AlxJ64 and gtxracer, I am very inspired by your front eatons and your build threads! It's Alex right? Alex your jeep and carryall are ima blazer guy so these will wind up under my blazer. If I might ask, what are the housing widths, ie the width from before either inner c, on y'alls as well as the overall wms to wms widths?
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:37 AM   #1041 (permalink)
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AlxJ64 and gtxracer, I am very inspired by your front eatons and your build threads! It's Alex right? Alex your jeep and carryall are ima blazer guy so these will wind up under my blazer. If I might ask, what are the housing widths, ie the width from before either inner c, on y'alls as well as the overall wms to wms widths?
Thanks man!

I'll dig up my spreadsheet this evening, if I can find it, and get you the numbers that I used to get my build together for the front axle.



On another front, I have a friend that I am helping put together an Eaton and we are having a harder time than expected digging up a 5.14 third. We have a PILE of 4.57s, and even bought an axle sight unseen being told and sworn to it was a 5.14, nope... 4.57.

Anybody east coast-ish have something. I have boxes that I have built for shipping these things around and can send it out your way with a return label. All you gotta do is open the box, bolt in the third, stick the label on and wait for the UPS man.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:46 AM   #1042 (permalink)
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Hello all, so I've been assembling a small collection of Eatons for my project/diabolical master plan. I've been tearing down my first one and hit my first impasse, getting off the backing plate to flange bolts. The dust shield and inner weld make it difficult, near impossible to get sockets in. An open end wrench (undesirable) fits, but this thing is heavily rusted inside. Wrench just digs in or begins to round the bolthead. I'm going to let it soak in penetrating oil for a few days, see what happens. Maybe apply some heat. Otherwise any advice getting it off? ie, torch, grinder, cut the whole shebang off, etc.

Attachment 1927305

Attachment 1927313
That dust shield comes off. You can get a socket on there. I used a 3/8 drive socket and breaker bar and a 4 ft long cheater bar.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:45 AM   #1043 (permalink)
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On another front, I have a friend that I am helping put together an Eaton and we are having a harder time than expected digging up a 5.14 third. We have a PILE of 4.57s, and even bought an axle sight unseen being told and sworn to it was a 5.14, nope... 4.57.

Anybody east coast-ish have something. I have boxes that I have built for shipping these things around and can send it out your way with a return label. All you gotta do is open the box, bolt in the third, stick the label on and wait for the UPS man.
I have a 5.14 ball bearing third. Would prefer to trade for a 4.10 third or a 4.10 gearset for the tapered style bearings. May consider a 4.57 in trade. Any chance you could turn my extra rear housing into a front once the reid super kingpin stuff comes out?
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:52 AM   #1044 (permalink)
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I have a set of 4.10s that I won't be using. Still need to pull them, I think. Maybe we can arrange some kind of 3 way trade so Alex can get his 5.14s and you can get these 4.10s. I'd like a set of 5.14s as well for a spare third but not critical at the moment. Let me know if I can help out.

My housing is 47" tube end to tube end. My Dodge UB knuckles with Cs was 11" from the back of the C to the WMS. This makes my front axle about 65" WMS to WMS. Hope that helps, I did a lot of measuring and thinking for this and it still might be too offset to the passengers side. I have a good feeling that it will fit but I still need to flex it out.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:57 PM   #1045 (permalink)
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That dust shield comes off. You can get a socket on there. I used a 3/8 drive socket and breaker bar and a 4 ft long cheater bar.
Thanks whateverpratt! I see I will just have to dig a little deeper into the grime then. I feel a 4 ft cheater may be necessary...

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I'll dig up my spreadsheet this evening, if I can find it, and get you the numbers that I used to get my build together for the front axle.
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My housing is 47" tube end to tube end. My Dodge UB knuckles with Cs was 11" from the back of the C to the WMS. This makes my front axle about 65" WMS to WMS.
Thanks for the replies guys! That's very helpful. As my username indicates, I am a noob, but seeing what is possible gives me hope towards what I can accomplish.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:54 PM   #1046 (permalink)
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Oh and AlxJ64 I'm actually relatively close, near Charlotte, NC. Dunno what direction I'm headed as far as gearing. So I'll figure out what ima do with the 5.14.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:42 AM   #1047 (permalink)
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I finally had to build a new housing for my buggy after 4 years of race and trail abuse. It was bent to the point i was worried about the detroit eating into the axles. It doesnt really show in the pictures how bad it had gotten - I think it was 5 degrees on one side and 4 on the other. I am sure the jump that pulled the long tube out of the front 60 compromised it a few years ago. I threw another one together for it since you cannot beat them for the money. I guess we are lucky in the northwest because they are everywhere still.
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:51 AM   #1048 (permalink)
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Where did you notice the majority of the bending had occured? I have started some plans for a fabricated housing and am just curious where the factory housings are lacking? I know that a good stiff integral cover will help a good bit. Other things such as installing studs into the housing for the third can help too (especially for installation since a loaded third is rather cumbersome under a rig).

I'm back to working on my Carryall with steering front Eaton so pretty soon I'll be ordering shafts and buttoning that thing up for some actual road use, granted its not going to be a wheeler, but it will see some time in the Dirt and Sand.
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:53 AM   #1049 (permalink)
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Oh and AlxJ64 I'm actually relatively close, near Charlotte, NC. Dunno what direction I'm headed as far as gearing. So I'll figure out what ima do with the 5.14.
My bud is still asking / looking. We've got two Eaton/60 fronts to build once they stir up some gears.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:15 PM   #1050 (permalink)
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Where did you notice the majority of the bending had occured? I have started some plans for a fabricated housing and am just curious where the factory housings are lacking? I know that a good stiff integral cover will help a good bit. Other things such as installing studs into the housing for the third can help too (especially for installation since a loaded third is rather cumbersome under a rig).

I'm back to working on my Carryall with steering front Eaton so pretty soon I'll be ordering shafts and buttoning that thing up for some actual road use, granted its not going to be a wheeler, but it will see some time in the Dirt and Sand.
It bent around the shock mounts and outboard. I wanted to run the truss all the way to the brake flanges but didnt have time before I had to have it done for a Fordyce trip. The way the shocks are mounted will make it time consuming but I plan to eventually. I have the third studded and at KOH we got a quarter to half turn out of all of them at every pit when they checked them. It ws never a problem on my suburban but it had leafs so maybe being linked transfers enough loads to cause them to loosen up, Or the housing was just fatigued after years of abuse? I am interested to see if the new one does it or not.
I ran one with cut 44's and manual for years in my 70 suburban and never had any issues with it. Another friend ran one in his 72 suburban and jumped it hard enough at the dunes to flat spot the inner beads on his aluminum trailreadys and the eaton was fine. It held up to 49's and a 502 in his rig without issues too.
I would think the factory housing would be fine for you. BTW your carryall is one of my favorite build ever! The body, axles, cummins, tires, nothing I would change. It'll be as cool as one of the 200k Legacy power wagons when you are done.
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