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Old 06-14-2017, 11:51 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by speedfreak78 View Post
I think what's common varies slightly by region. Up here in New England, every 2500 I've looked at had a 60 under the front. Maybe because of the chance of a plow hanging off it?



I know with my 79 f250, it's kinda like that. They usually got 44s, but most around here were fitted with the optional 60 with the snofighter package.



Just like west coast or southern classics seem to have air conditioning or be a convertible more than what was originally bought around here.

speedfreak78 and RXT
I got around to doing a little more research on the axels I picked up and they are both open Dana 60s with 4:10s out of a 1999 3/4 ton 360 truck.
great info and I have heard that region plays some factor in original equipment vehicles came with.
Aaron


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Old 06-14-2017, 12:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Aaron, the best thing to do whenever you're in the market for specific axles is to see it in person. Not everything is going to be as expected. Not everyone who buys a truck up north will use it to plow snow, not every truck up north was bought there when new. Not everyone spends the extra money for the heavier model. When it comes to 3/4 tons, it's really a crap shoot. The factory offered both the Dana 44HD and the Dana60 and it's easy to get it wrong because many don't look past the 8 lugs that the rims are bolted to.

…But it's good to know you did get one with a D60 and thats all that really matters

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Old 06-14-2017, 01:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 96budgetram View Post
I have actually been creeping on your truck Mountain Ram. I really like the setup. The bronco is pretty slick as well.
What doubler did you run? I've never messed with them.
I'm definitely not a rock bouncer but like to slow crawl rocks from time to time
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I have a Box 4-Rocks that I bought off a former vendor here. It basically allowed me to chop the factory NP231 planetary gear from the stock box and bolt an Np241 behind it. Besides a constant slow leak (needs a new gasket), I have had no issues with it and the 7.4:1 low range is awesome! I liked it so much that I put it in the Bronco.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:46 AM   #29 (permalink)
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My Understanding

I ended up with a set, CAD 60 front 70 rear for free ( actually made money after all the trading and selling of parts from the donor ). From what im gathering i should be pretty well off if I ?
1. Truss the axle
2. CAD Delete ( Long shaft )
3. 35 spline shafts and carrier
4. Dana 50 Lockouts
Am i missing anything? Are the Brakes on the 50 any better? Also talked with the guy who runs Balljoint Eliminators, he is willing to make me a set for these axles once i get him some specs at a discounted price. Anybody have any experience with them? ive yet to hear a negative thing about them. Seems like a good way to get around the weak upper ball joint and still keep the wallet happy considering the cost of the always desirable kingpin Ford 60.
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:16 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 92Flareside150 View Post
Are the Brakes on the 50 any better?
You don't use the 50 brakes. The prescribed rotor is 78-79 F250; D44 or 60 same part. It is ~1/4" thinner than the Dodge one though.
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:05 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92Flareside150 View Post
I ended up with a set, CAD 60 front 70 rear for free ( actually made money after all the trading and selling of parts from the donor ). From what im gathering i should be pretty well off if I ?
1. Truss the axle
2. CAD Delete ( Long shaft )
3. 35 spline shafts and carrier
4. Dana 50 Lockouts
Am i missing anything? Are the Brakes on the 50 any better? Also talked with the guy who runs Balljoint Eliminators, he is willing to make me a set for these axles once i get him some specs at a discounted price. Anybody have any experience with them? ive yet to hear a negative thing about them. Seems like a good way to get around the weak upper ball joint and still keep the wallet happy considering the cost of the always desirable kingpin Ford 60.
I have no experience with the ball joint eliminator kits, however I did read somewhere (probably here on this forum) that someone machined out the upper BJ bore and installed the bigger lower BJ in it's place. The lower BJs are bigger and therefore stronger than the upper BJs and you use off the shelf parts when it comes time to replace them.

Ed
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