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Old 02-17-2018, 08:31 PM   #51 (permalink)
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It has been a long time since I have messed with them... But I want to say yes, the breaks are different. Pretty sure they had a "regular beefy break" option and the "giant break" option. I know the kingpin axles were different from 78/79 to the 87-91 also. I think the brackets are different but I never had a side by side comparison. When you order parts use the year model the brackets came off of to be safe.
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:10 PM   #52 (permalink)
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...was scanning the D60 bible and didn't see this covered - anyone know of the caliper brackets for all kingpin Ford 60s are the same? Mine were ground down to clear small diameter wheels...ground way too far and I'm not running these on the street, so I need another set of caliper brackets, and wondering if all of them from 78-91.5 are the same or if I need a set specific to the 89 axle?
78/79 use different brackets. Look at the hardware on rockauto and you will see the difference. The later are the better design.
I honestly doubt there is a significant strength difference between 5 and 6 stud spindle mounting. The studs aren't load-bearing.
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:04 AM   #53 (permalink)
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really appreciate the intel everyone - I'll scan for the proper '89 hardware. The good news is I have plenty of time to source them and I have the part numbers off the current ones to match up.

The right caliper bracket is pn# 69120664096

The right caliper bracket is pn# 69120665096


Anyone know how to submit these pn's and pics to whoever manages the D60 'bible'? Though...these have been ground down so these might not be the best to use as a reference...

Drivers side -



Passengers side -





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02 Dakota QuadCab 4x4 - 440/46rh/Atlas4/D60/14B/40" Toyos (...in work...)

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Old 02-20-2018, 08:54 AM   #54 (permalink)
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so one thing I'm unsure of is how 'good' or 'bad' these 1989 era dual piston Ford calipers really are? I'm reading a lot of conflicting threads - some saying they work great and what is the problem, while others say they suck and should be swapped out for 'anything' else.
I have zero experience running these 89 Ford dual piston calipers with the big steel retainer sleeves...so I'm hoping some of you have real world experience and advice about why I should/should not use these dual piston brakes, especially considering I'll be going with hydroboost when the time comes to do the SAS.

Appreciate any solid nuggets o wisdom
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:52 PM   #55 (permalink)
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...man why do I always come across the weird shit. okay....so when I got this Ford D60 into the shop and started to take it apart, I'd have swore the spindle assembly was aiming down just slightly...but I figured it was just the booze. Anyway when I took it all apart I pulled off the spindle, then the dust shield, then the caliper bracket, then the spacer - this spacer looked just like any other 1/8" spacer and I figured it was a factory spacer and didn't think twice about it. Then I'm taking a closer look and I realize the spacer is tapered...and it WAS aiming the spindle assembly down.....so good I'm not crazy.

Is this an aftermarket shim...or factory?...to make up for a super heavy snow plow option or something?? I checked the tube/housing with a laser and it isn't bent...but do I need to keep it in there? I don't want extra camber - I want my tires flat against the ground.

If I remove it will I need another spacer to retain proper axle shaft -to- spindle geometry? - I'd imagine so.

I've actually decided to swap out the Ford brakes and brackets in lieu of the Lugnut4x4 Chevy 3/4-ton hardware, so I've contacted them to ask their thoughts.

it is the first part to touch the mating face of the knuckle -





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Old 02-21-2018, 01:01 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Aftermarket alignment shim. Better check to see if anything is bent.
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:09 PM   #57 (permalink)
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eyeballed the tube against a laser level and my twitch-o-meter didn't go off so I think the tube is straight relative to the case - not sure how to check the Cs but I know a couple local places that can probably check it. Might reassemble everything and check it including the spindles but without the shims. Both kingpin bushings were cracked so could have been that...
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:56 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Yeah, mine went all to hell with one cracked bushing. Death wobble and wandering more than usual. Even if it is tweaked a bit you can probably bring it back by welding on a truss. But it would be good to know either way, before you put a lot of money into the axle.
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:52 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Yeah, mine went all to hell with one cracked bushing. Death wobble and wandering more than usual. Even if it is tweaked a bit you can probably bring it back by welding on a truss. But it would be good to know either way, before you put a lot of money into the axle.
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:29 PM   #60 (permalink)
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...picked up a set of doors today that'll eventually be my off-road 'safari' doors...conveniently still attached to a truck someone was parting out here in town - now I've got a ton of spare body/chassis parts and wiring - traded a pistol I was never going to use for it







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Old 02-25-2018, 08:13 AM   #61 (permalink)
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bolted the knuckles/spindles back up and with a laser on...while it's a bit difficult to see...it it looks pretty close to perfect to me. Don't know why the PO would have had the shims in there but I'm gonna call the axle "straight" -

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Old 02-25-2018, 02:16 PM   #62 (permalink)
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If you sight down the tubes like you're zero'ing a rifle, you can sometimes see a bend in the tube, if it is bent.

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Old 02-27-2018, 09:44 AM   #63 (permalink)
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word on the Dakota-Durango forum is I can replace my existing PCM (for an automatic-equipped truck) with a PCM from a manual trans truck, which will essentially 'decomputerize' the existing 46RE harness without throwing codes, then replace the 46RE with a 46RH, wire up the OD and LU on toggle switches, and the transmission will then have a non-computer-controlled 1-2-3 with the OD and LU on toggles - just the way I want it, and no possibility for 'limp mode'. I may do the mod sooner instead of waiting for SAS time...

My homework is to determine if the converters are the same between a 46RH and RE, and I think the RH is a tad longer so I'll need to modify both drive shafts. I'll also need to figure out what to do with the NSS and backup lights...but all of that is completely cool with me if I can truly gain a non-computer-controlled transmission with NO possibility of going into limp mode...
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:02 PM   #64 (permalink)
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word on the Dakota-Durango forum is I can replace my existing PCM (for an automatic-equipped truck) with a PCM from a manual trans truck, which will essentially 'decomputerize' the existing 46RE harness without throwing codes, then replace the 46RE with a 46RH, wire up the OD and LU on toggle switches, and the transmission will then have a non-computer-controlled 1-2-3 with the OD and LU on toggles - just the way I want it, and no possibility for 'limp mode'. I may do the mod sooner instead of waiting for SAS time...

My homework is to determine if the converters are the same between a 46RH and RE, and I think the RH is a tad longer so I'll need to modify both drive shafts. I'll also need to figure out what to do with the NSS and backup lights...but all of that is completely cool with me if I can truly gain a non-computer-controlled transmission with NO possibility of going into limp mode...
Yup... I swapped in a manual PCM in my ram and installed a 727 torque flight. Worked like a champ. I think the RH uses the same crank position sensor but if it does not then you have to mill out. Notch for it. Not really a big deal.
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:14 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I think the RH uses the same crank position sensor but if it does not then you have to mill out. Notch for it. Not really a big deal.
excellent point - can do. Appreciate it!
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:35 PM   #66 (permalink)
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sweeeeet - got the SCT programmer from Sean at HemiFeverTuning, loaded the 89 octane tune, which also included lockup engagement reprogrammed for 2500 rpm, and it does exactly that - I love it. Yah I know it's a small thing for $400, but now I can adjust all kinds of things and I can get more tunes, and I think I'm going to get one to set the lockup for 3000 rpm - I'm tempted to set it for 6k so it'll never come on. Plus if I choose to do a supercharger I'm now also set up to get tunes for that - bonus.

Lockup does still engage any time the overdrive is engaged even if it's under 2500 rpm so I'm asking Sean about that, but overall I'm really delighted that it works as I'd hoped. Also he programmed in a 91 octane tune which I'll try once I burn through the 89 in the tank now - should be lots more funerer.

Bottom line is it works, and I'll be leaving the RE right where it is
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:04 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Recent trail ride down in the Gulches - had a blast!









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Old 04-02-2018, 09:39 PM   #68 (permalink)
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how much of that green dak are you using?
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:50 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I've got a similar project going. Quad cab dakota with a 4.7 but think I'm gonna chunk it in favor of a 5.9. My axles are balljoint ford front and 98 dodge 70 rear. Have a 241dhd transfer. I really need the frame from your parts truck because I wrapped mine around a hickory tree. I had a valid question before I started rambling.... stoopid. I'll be watching this one

Edit. I remembered one of my questions. Was the parts truck a 5.9? If so would you sell the wiring harness?

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Old 04-03-2018, 07:00 AM   #70 (permalink)
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how much of that green dak are you using?
I got it mostly for the 4 doors (will be my safari doors), but the rest of the truck is just 'spare parts' in case I roll mine or something craps out. Considering how much I like the truck and how old it is I figured having some spare hardware would be a good idea.

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I've got a similar project going. Quad cab dakota with a 4.7 but think I'm gonna chunk it in favor of a 5.9. My axles are balljoint ford front and 98 dodge 70 rear. Have a 241dhd transfer. I really need the frame from your parts truck because I wrapped mine around a hickory tree. I had a valid question before I started rambling.... stoopid. I'll be watching this one

Edit. I remembered one of my questions. Was the parts truck a 5.9? If so would you sell the wiring harness?
...I wish it was a 5.9 but no it had a 4.7, and I'm keeping all the core hardware. There's a LOT of spare stock Dakota hardware in the bed I'll be letting go, but the main hardware I'm keeping.
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Old 04-14-2018, 03:09 PM   #71 (permalink)
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...so I'm playing around with an idea that someone in here might have insight on...

I am just curious if I could directly replace my electric-shift NP233 with the much stronger electric-shift NV273D t-case, presumably from a HD Ram? Yah I know there are other options, but I'm just curious if it would bolt up and plug in and function normally off the dash switch.

I'm near certain my 46RE has a 23-spline output, and I think there was a version of the NP273 that had a factory 23-spline input but I haven't confirmed it yet, and even if it didn't there's a 23-spline input available for it -

qu10995 - Torque King 4x4

So, thoughts?
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:56 AM   #72 (permalink)
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disregard my last - I'm planning to bring the truck into the shop to start the SAS around early Sept so I'm just going to leave everything as-is for a few more months and then bolt some real hardware under there...

Got the Reid's, and took advantage of the EJS sales and have a pair of Grizzly's and 5.38s coming. Progress...
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:51 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I still have the 77 ramcharger box that was converted to front swing and tapped and rebuilt by west Texas off road! Iíll Give you a good deal!
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:23 AM   #74 (permalink)
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thanks man - no doubts on a deal, but I'm months away from having it all apart to even know if a Dodge box will work, so I'll have to hold off at least until then...
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Old 04-24-2018, 03:08 PM   #75 (permalink)
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just for clarity... dodge gas trucks had 23 spline t cases. the diesels had 29. i do not think that changed in the 3rd or 4th gens. you have to be careful of spline engagement too. you can always build an adapter, just make sure you have enough meat in there.
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