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Old 04-24-2018, 04:31 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BigGreenMonster View Post
just for clarity... dodge gas trucks had 23 spline t cases. the diesels had 29. i do not think that changed in the 3rd or 4th gens. you have to be careful of spline engagement too. you can always build an adapter, just make sure you have enough meat in there.

All Cummins manual transmissions are 29 spline output, the majority of the automatics are 23 spline output like a gas engine. I think only in the later models did any of the autos get an output shaft upgrade.
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:57 AM   #77 (permalink)
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thanks for the inputs fellas. I've decided to rock the jack stands sooner vs later - will start blowing the truck apart next month - then I can get a real good look at how much clearance I need and want. Hoping to have the truck done in time for Fullsize Invasion next year
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02 Dakota QuadCab 4x4 - 440/46rh/Atlas4/D60/14B/40" Toyos (...in work...)
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Old 04-26-2018, 03:59 PM   #78 (permalink)
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okay so I have a technical question and while I think I know the answer to this but I'd like to get some second opinions/thoughts on it -

so I'm going to run a Ford kingpin D60 up front, and I was planning to go with the Reid knuckles because of the strength and tie rod placement, but another option is to go with all Dodge hardware from the knuckles-out.

If I did that I'd gain some of the strength (not as much as the Reid option but enough IMO), I'd gain a 6-bolt spindle mount vs 5 (never a bad thing), and I'd gain the tie rod placement I want. I already have a set of good Dodge knuckles and hardware...

The other part of the puzzle is axle shafts - IIUC if I hang Dodge knuckles/hubs on a Ford 60 the axle width would increase by 5/8" (.6" stub) per side, and I would need Dodge stubs on the Ford inner shafts.

Sure there are lots of pros and cons...but purely from a technical standpoint do I have that right?

*****

Edit - actually I just talked with the guys are RCV and they confirmed all of the above is doable and that they can do 'hybrid' Ford inner/Dodge outer shafts at no additional cost.

Still - any reasons why this is a less than awesome idea?

.
If you are interested in selling those ford outers I might be interested.

Cool build! My first truck was a dakota and I have always liked them.
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Old 04-26-2018, 04:57 PM   #79 (permalink)
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If you are interested in selling those ford outers I might be interested.
...matter of fact I am

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...falcon-co.html

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Cool build! My first truck was a dakota and I have always liked them.
yah I'm really liking the truck - it's the perfect size for the kind of wheeling I like to do - I just gotta get some distance between the frame and the ground...

- Sam
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02 Dakota QuadCab 4x4 - 440/46rh/Atlas4/D60/14B/40" Toyos (...in work...)

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Old 04-26-2018, 05:22 PM   #80 (permalink)
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...matter of fact I am

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...falcon-co.html

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yah I'm really liking the truck - it's the perfect size for the kind of wheeling I like to do - I just gotta get some distance between the frame and the ground...

- Sam
Well darn I need the spindles knuckles and stub shafts! Looks like you already sold then.

I have the bastard 2002 NON CAD axle in my truck.
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:50 PM   #81 (permalink)
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...well you'd have a big part of the puzzle at a good price - I am tempted to sell the axle shafts too - inners and outers...

Lemme know - hit me up on e-mail at [email protected]
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:25 AM   #82 (permalink)
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so the wheels on my last truck came with 'rock rings' - 1/2" steel dowel rolled into a ring and welded to the outer edge of the wheel which did a magnificent job of keeping the outer lip intact despite multiple repeated impacts and close encounters with lots of rocks, and I thought it's be a good upgrade for the new 17x9 Procomps, so I picked up a Harbor Freight tubing bender and two 20-foot sticks of 1/2" steel hot-rolled dowel, rolled them into coils, which I'll trim to fit my wheels and weld in place and re-paint. Should work good -







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Old 05-27-2018, 02:07 PM   #83 (permalink)
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going through some boxes I found this new Dana 60 kingpin aluminum cross over arm that I can't use with the SAS - it's a black anodized aluminum arm from Ram Off Road - set up for TREs.

Can't use it so might as well post it up for sale. $100 plus the ride. Shipping from Falcon CO

Thx,
- Sam

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Old 08-04-2018, 09:01 AM   #84 (permalink)
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wheels are done. Got the rock rings welded and sanded, primed and painted. Used Rustoleum self-etching primer, Rustoleum Metallic Charcoal paint, and Rustoleum satin clear - love the color - should match the Air Force Blue nicely. Then I picked up a $25 electric oven on craigslist ($10 for the oven, $15 for the correct 220v plug), and after the wheels cured a week I gutted the oven, set it on its back, and sure enough a 17x9 wheel fit perfectly, and I gave the wheels a 'poor man's powdercoating' for 25 minutes at 250*. Mounted the 40's, and they're ready for mock-up -

wheel edge and stubby brass valve stems -



my $25 powdercoating 'system' -





40" Toyos mounted and sitting next to the puny 33's they're replacing after about a foot of lift and the 'tons going in -







...and I found a good solution to the 'front brakes' issue. For months I've been searching for a replacement set of Ford brake caliper brackets (for my front D60), and just recently I came across a company selling a conversion kit to enable a Ford kingpin D60 to use the factory GM front disc brakes from a '00-'10 2wd or 4wd GM 2500 truck. Just so happens I still have the left overs of the '03 Chevy 2500 I got for the rear axle, and now I can also use the front brakes including the caliper hangers, rotors, calipers, etc, and I'm also using the same '03 hydrobooster setup. So, now all of the Dakota's brakes will be off-the shelf from the same '03 Chevy 2500 truck. The brackets are 1/2" plate steel - very beefy

here's the link to the Speed House kit - https://shopspeedhouse.com/parts/spe...-dmax-kit.html





using the Chevy hardware I'll also use the Chevy lug studs, so now all of my lugs will match. Instead of the rotors being held in place from behind the hub face via the lug studs, the Chevy rotors will now be outboard of the hub face, making maintenance a lot simpler, and I don't mind the wheels being pushed out by the thickness of the rotor face either. I'm sending the unmolested factory hydrobooster to Vanco to be 'hi-flowed' which should enable the ram-assisted steering to be nice and quick. The brakes and steering on the truck should be extremely good -



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Old 08-08-2018, 06:31 AM   #85 (permalink)
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You'll love the 2500hd brakes on the KP Dana 60. I'm running a homebrew version of that kit on my truck and they work exceptionally well, much better than the factory KP brakes.
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Old 08-08-2018, 06:41 AM   #86 (permalink)
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that's good to hear - this truck will see a lot of street/highway time and I wanted the brakes and steering to be both powerful and predictable - sounds like it aught to achieve both.

I'm hoping to really dig into the truck within a month or so - my wife and I have been having all kinds of fun this year with our now 6-month-old daughter so shop time has been a bit 'thin', but we're hoping to have the truck ready for next year's wheeling season - solid and dependable - so we can all get out and start playing on the rocks together
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:37 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Also can vouch for how well GM 2500 brakes work on a D60. Plus, as Dman pointed out to me, once you pull off the rotor you can get to the nuts on the spindle and remove everything to get to the axle shafts without having to pull apart the locking hubs / outer wheel bearings and won't have to repack them with grease.....
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Old 08-09-2018, 04:54 PM   #88 (permalink)
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...that's a nice 'perk'
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:38 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Really makes me miss my Dakota!
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:55 AM   #90 (permalink)
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...really makes me wish I'd got one ten years ago...
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Old 08-28-2018, 04:17 PM   #91 (permalink)
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...alright - it's "on" - we're pressing forward with a big block swap. We plan to have this truck for many many years, and at our home altitude of 7000 ft it's already lacking for power, and once I bolt up the 40s and the topper and the cage and the roof tent and fill it with the family and all the gear plus possibly a small pull-behind camper trailer...well with a 360 I'll need low range just to get out of the garage - so...gonna want a lot more power, and the three options are 1) stroker 360, 2) supercharger, and 3) 440, and after doing the R&D and weighing the pros and cons, the 440 swap is in my mind the best bang for the bucks, plus there's the coolness of pouring some serious old school 'hot rod' DNA into the truck, and that scratches a pretty serious 'itch' I've always had, so big block swap it is. It'll add in several months to a year of saving up more cabbage, but in the end I think it will all be well worth it.

I plucked the 440 from a 79 Winnebago with 49k miles on the clock, and it'll remain 'stock' with the stump-puller cam and low compression, which should enable it to run nice and cool at 12,000 ft altitude on any pump gas I find. It'll get a Howell EFI system and a MSD Ready-to-Run ignition system along with the other typical off-road accessories.

To keep things simple I've decided to forgo any/all requirements for the crank and/or cam signals and I'll work out any gremlins along the way. Something odd tho is I went out to the truck, turned the ignition to 'run', and everything inside including the HVAC stuff, all seem to function normally. The heater doors swing from one mode to the other, the fan blows as it should, when the A/C is turned on the sound changes so I'm presuming there's things moving as they should with it on, door locks, windows - all function as if all that's required is 12v switched power as activated by the key switch. I don't know what the crank and cam signals further 'activate' but I'll figure that out later on.

I also decided to go with a 46RH trans, which I just got yesterday...still bolted up under a complete '95 Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 that was being parted out that I got for $400.

Next I'm going with the SMR conversion kit (not the ultrabell) - I ordered the kit with a standard big block SFI flexplate balanced for my externally balanced 440, and I'll use a good neutral balanced converter.

I'm going to fab up my own dash panel (one of my favorite mods), the trans will get a Winnebago floor shifter (another of my favorite mods) along with two toggles for OD and LU - which is how I did it on my last truck and loved it. Speedo signal will come direct from the t-case and tach will come from the dizzy.

Next, wanting to retain 'modern' accessories I want to go with the CVF big block Mopar serpentine system, which will allow me to use the more modern A/C pump, pwr steering pump, and alternator. The kit is an 8-rib system which uses a 7B10/134a A/C compressor and a GM Type 2 power steering pump, and a GM CS130 alternator (a 1-wire unit I believe)…none of which directly 'match' the Dakota's existing hardware but I'm fairly sure with a set of custom hoses the 7B10 compressor will with fine with the Dakota's A/C system, and I'm also fairly sure the GM 1 wire alternator will charge the Dakota's battery(s) just fine. The GM type-2 power steering pump will be simple enough to use as all of that will come from PSC and they'll make any kind of kit I need. Not sure yet what the application (make/model etc) is for the 7B10 A/C compressor but I'll find that out.

So...that's where I'm at, and in the end the truck will have all the power it'll ever need to get wherever I want to take it, including cruising the highways at 80 mph...and I can always warm up the 440 .

- Sam
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Old 09-07-2018, 06:21 AM   #92 (permalink)
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pulled a 'correct' 46rh from a '93 Dakota with a 5.2 Magnum yesterday - $125 from the local U-Pull-n-Pay. I say correct because I thought they were all the same, but after bringing home a '95 Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 Magnum and a "46rh" I discovered the trans from the Jeep has a different bellhousing than a "46rh" from a Dodge Dakota or Ram - on the Jeeps the starter is on the passenger side below the oil filter - FYI to anyone looking for one. I guess it's a Jeep thing...and no I don't understand...



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Old 09-07-2018, 06:35 AM   #93 (permalink)
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pulling transmissions in a pick n pull has to be one of the more miserable things a person could do in their free time... Hats off to you.
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Old 09-07-2018, 10:44 AM   #94 (permalink)
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...definitely was 'less than ideal' wrench time, but I needed the trans - there aren't many of 'em and this one's mine now, so it was well worth it
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:00 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Looks good so far.
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Old 09-18-2018, 03:39 PM   #96 (permalink)
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thanks. Yah at this point I'm just piling up hardware in the corner of the shop - haven't begun cutting the truck apart yet. It'll be a while yet but it'll happen...
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Old 11-08-2018, 01:54 PM   #97 (permalink)
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- time for an update -

...tore the 440 apart and hauled it all down to Dave at Ehnes Rink - my machine shop of choice here in Colorado Springs - for an inspection. Overall it was salvageable...but it definitely needed some love.

First off it had Fel-Pro head gaskets, so the heads have apparently been off once already.

The top edge of one of the pistons apparently got real hot and melted away (the frags must have got out through the exhaust) and the middle cam bearing got real hot too and had enough of an nubbins on the edge that I had to pry it out.

All of the bearings were standard, but the pistons were all .030 over. Don't know if the engine had ever been fully rebuilt but it sure looks like someone had been into it at least once before.

One of the rods was not like the other 7 - it was still a factory rod but it didn't match the others, so the shop swapped it out for one they had that matched, and proceeded with balancing the bottom end.

The cylinders looked decent, but there was a small 'scuff' that corresponded to where the piston had been damaged and just enough taper to warrant boring, and it cleaned up after being punched to .040.

In a nice turn of events the engine master kit came with 9-1 pistons (basic flat tops) vs the presumed 8-1 slugs. The heads were fully inspected and treated to a valve job and new seals and springs, and with the 9-1 pistons the engine should run nice and cool and never ping nor need anything more than regular gas.

I'm going with a Melling MTD-2 cam - it's advertised as a 278/288 (204/214 @ .050), with .421/.443 lift - a nice towing 'truck' cam with a 112* LSA - should run nice and smooth and the exhaust should be pretty clean (not stink of raw fuel).

Overall this 440 should have a bit more torque than the 360 it's replacing...but the kicker is it'll make peak torque about 1500 rpm lower than the 360, and that's going to be real nice.

Hoping to bring the truck into the shop in early December for the tear down and start all the voodoo. The machine work on the engine is nearly done, and with the full rebuild and the bump in compression I'm hoping it won't ever need to be rebuilt again or even upgraded - it should be 'just right'.

EFI. After months of R&D and a lotlotlot of reading and calling the various tech departments I've decided to go with the Holley Sniper EFI and Hyperspark ignition system. I can't say enough great things about the Holley tech department, in particular Ethan Moss, who took the time to listen carefully to what I am doing with the engine/truck and who's insight and very thorough knowledge garnered a smooth sale direct from Holley, and they offer a military discount which saved me 10% off of Summit's prices.

To perfectly match the Sniper EFI I've decided to go with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake - which is basically a 'big plenum' dual plane intake - aught to work perfectly with the engine and EFI, and because the Sniper throttle body has a square flange 4bbl base it bolts up 'clean' to the RPM intake - no funky adapters .

Engine is almost done - should have it back in a few days. I'll be taking the 46RH to my friend Mac - one of my off-road club bubbas, who owns Bad Rock Auto in Woodland Park, CO - he knows the RH and RE transmissions like the back of his hand and is going to help me out with the rebuild.

...progress...
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:41 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Sounds like a plan, if you like big blocks, lol.

Any head work getting done or are you going with aftermarket heads?
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Old 11-08-2018, 06:41 PM   #99 (permalink)
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...I like big blocks and I cannot lie...

Keeping the 452s - nothing major being done, just the standard refresh and valve job, guides were good - new seals etc. I really want to keep the compression no higher than 9-1 - the availability and quality of some of the pump gas we come across at some of the remote places we get to can be sketchy and I don't want the engine to act up with some crappy gas, and I want it to run cooler vs warmer. If down the road I need or want more power I can always drop some heads on it, but I doubt I'll want to - I think the engine is going to run great.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:23 AM   #100 (permalink)
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That's about how I did my 383 in my old '74 W100. I think it was a little over 8.5:1 compression and would damn near run on water. I had 906's, so I went with hardened seats, 3 angle job and bronze guides. I think I ended up with a Mopar Purple Shaft cam that was a step below the 383 Magnum cam, old Eddy dual plane intake and a 750 Holley vac. secondary that I built out of a box of leftover carb parts. It ran pretty well and had a lot of torque right off idle which worked well with the NP435. I just got tired of the carb issues and rust eventually took over. For me it was cheaper to buy my TBI Ramcharger than to convert to EFI.
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