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Old 11-09-2018, 09:12 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Did I already ask, how are you mating the engine to the trans?
Travis..
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:23 AM   #102 (permalink)
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I'm using an SMR bellhousing adapter - basically a 1/4" plate steel big-to-small block adapter, which also comes with a billet 1/4" spacer for the converter - pretty slick kit
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:27 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Ah, nice. Didn't know something like that exists. I know about the UltraBell, but know it really isn't designed for anything but drag racing due to converter size restrictions.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:37 AM   #104 (permalink)
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...won't be long before I can report back about how well the adapter kit handles being twisted up like a pretzel...
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:52 AM   #105 (permalink)
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construction 'officially' began this weekend

First step, build the engine -



Bottom end went together nice - just praying I got the rear main seal right...
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:24 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Subd and waiting to see more
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:38 PM   #107 (permalink)
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All Cummins manual transmissions are 29 spline output, the majority of the automatics are 23 spline output like a gas engine. I think only in the later models did any of the autos get an output shaft upgrade.
Little late to the party, but wanted to point out this isnít exactly correct. The diesels actually had 23 splines and the nv4500 gasser from 03-05 2500ís had 29 spine outputs.
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Old 12-11-2018, 06:19 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Well unless you can prove it, I am going to stick with my statement since I have the manuals right here in front of me and they agree with me. And I never said anything about there not being any 29 spline output gas transmissions. Technically the V10 is a gas engine and typically used all the same parts that the Cummins models did.
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:05 PM   #109 (permalink)
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...decided to upgrade the rear main seal with a 1-piece unit from FastFish, and while I've been waiting for it to arrive I put some elbow grease into 'machining' the mating surfaces of a pair of good used exhaust manifolds I scored from 440Source. I used a nice flat 1-meter level with a 1.5" wide base, some double-stick foam tape, and some 36 grit sand paper I had lying around from doing body work years ago...and just slid that thing back and forth...a LOT...until both surfaces were clean - ze-ro gap. One of the manifolds had about a 1/32" gap between the outers and the middle flange - the middle had warped 'away' from the head surface...and once bolted down would have contributed to cracking the center after a while, but now that possibility should be all but eliminated. Worked good - and I can put the $180 it would have cost me to have them machined at the engine shop back into the build. I'll try to resurrect my blasting cabinete and clean them up, then hit 'em with cast iron manifold coating.



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Old 12-12-2018, 01:23 PM   #110 (permalink)
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...decided to upgrade the rear main seal with a 1-piece unit from FastFish, and while I've been waiting for it to arrive I put some elbow grease into 'machining' the mating surfaces of a pair of good used exhaust manifolds I scored from 440Source. I used a nice flat 1-meter level with a 1.5" wide base, some double-stick foam tape, and some 36 grit sand paper I had lying around from doing body work years ago...and just slid that thing back and forth...a LOT...until both surfaces were clean - ze-ro gap. One of the manifolds had about a 1/32" gap between the outers and the middle flange - the middle had warped 'away' from the head surface...and once bolted down would have contributed to cracking the center after a while, but now that possibility should be all but eliminated. Worked good - and I can put the $180 it would have cost me to have them machined at the engine shop back into the build. I'll try to resurrect my blasting cabinete and clean them up, then hit 'em with cast iron manifold coating.




Slick. I've done that with a glass backing for.... other machine work.....
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:16 AM   #111 (permalink)
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I find the best way to resurface manifolds is to cut a belt sander belt at the seam and stick it to a flat surface (like a granite countertop or table saw) with spray adhesive then drag the manifold back and forth. Way less labor than dragging something across the manifold because the manifold's weigh applies pressure for you.

Those look good. I'd check each port with a 123 block and feeler gauges. As long as the flanges are flat it doesn't matter if they're not exactly in the same plan. The manifold will twist into the right shape when you bolt it down.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:11 AM   #112 (permalink)
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...I just wanted them flat across the head mating surfaces so when the center was bolted tight it wouldn't 'pull' the center inwards, which I figure could lead to cracking. Anyway, had them aggressively sandblasted, and I'll paint them with a coat of VHT flameproof black followed by a coat of VHT flameproof cast iron gray, then I'll break out the electric oven and cure them at 250*/450*/650* for 30 min each. Total cost of about $70 for the blasting and coating, which will give them a decent short-term lifespan against the elements, and if necessary I'll send them to either Bonehead Performance or JetHot for the real deal.

Down the road...if these crack apart I may very likely just build myself a set of headers that mimic the manifolds...but I doubt that'll ever be required...

Anyway, hoping to have the engine assembled this weekend
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:05 AM   #113 (permalink)
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...got the 440 all buttoned up yesterday, and stuck the Sniper throttle body on top for a couple pics...and yes I painted it Cummins beige

Now the truck starts to come apart for the real voodoo...







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Old 01-06-2019, 12:33 PM   #114 (permalink)
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...got the 440 all buttoned up yesterday, and stuck the Sniper throttle body on top for a couple pics...and yes I painted it Cummins beige

Now the truck starts to come apart for the real voodoo...
WOW! Looks Great!
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:39 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Looking good Sam! After seeing the pics of you wheeling your dakota in stock form or makes me wish I had a little fun with mine before tearing in to it haha
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:26 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Looking good Sam! After seeing the pics of you wheeling your dakota in stock form or makes me wish I had a little fun with mine before tearing in to it haha
Thanks man - yah we just beefed it up enough to handle the normal trails and get a good 'feel' for the truck and if the overall size of it was what we really liked (and it absolutely is) - we'd always planned to build it up big. And speaking of building it up...after making a few mods, the big 8-rib CVF serpentine system is complete, including a big hoss power steering pump from PSC Motorsports. With the serpentine system done I can now bring the truck in for all the mock-up. Progress...





...in the first pic you can see where I had the center face of the water pump pulley machined .060 to perfectly center the fan clutch mount - without the extra depth the water pump snout doesn't have much sticking out for the clutch hub to center on - now it has plenty -



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Old 01-14-2019, 09:17 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Looks good in beige. Years ago my brother painted the 440 he was putting in his 64 Dart with Detroit Diesel Green. It looked really good too.
Travis..
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:24 PM   #118 (permalink)
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yah I've always liked the color, plus hey I figure it might be good for a few free lbs of torque

Got the MSD hyperspark dizzy and 8.5mm wires in place over the weekend. Now...after my new Rogue Fab M600 xHD bender is assembled...I'll be ready to blow apart the truck...



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Old 01-22-2019, 06:50 AM   #119 (permalink)
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...painted the tranny to match - it was upgraded with a bunch of leftover Cummins 47RH hardware including the input shaft and pump, drums and clutches, and overdrive unit (with a gasser governor) - it's now essentially a gasser 46RH with Cummins guts. I'll swap on the B&M deep pan once I get the 46RE out from under the truck.

To finish it off I opted for a Hughes LXTM towing converter which should nicely handle the 440.





...and my Rogue Fab M600 xHD bender is ready to work -





the thing's a beast - made a perfect 190* bend in my 1-7/8 x .145 wall DOM tubing with near zero deformation




...and I drove the truck into the shop under 'Magnum' power for the last time - finally time for some real voodoo

Progress
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:41 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Engine is looking sweet. I have the same bender, it is great! Make sure to lube the back pressure die well though, I had some galling happen on mine early on. I posted a Dakota build in general 4x4 you should check out too. Dak attack is the name.
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:02 PM   #121 (permalink)
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thanks for the tip on lubing the rear die - I thought about connecting the front and rear pressure dies with a half cylinder of steel tubing and just have the cage tubing 'slide' along that - would be a lot less pressure on the dies...

Just read through your thread - lots of solid fab work there. Mine's going to be more of an expedition style truck - I'll be towing with it and doing multi-day camping gigs. In a lot of ways it'll be pretty basic, with a real solid driveline.
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:31 AM   #122 (permalink)
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...got some minor disassembly done - now it's time to figure out how to make everything fit the way I want...



another thing I did before taking it all apart (and thanks Ed for the idea) was to conduct a 'test' to try to determine a bit more about what the PCM actually controls, and I like what I found out. While the truck was still intact - before I disconnected all of the wiring and separated the chassis - I turned the key to [run] and confirmed all of the interior functions like the HVAC/blend doors, radio, turn signals/lights, windows and locks, mirrors, etc, all functioned normally - including bumping the starter, which they did. Then, I disconnected the three big terminals at the PCM and ran the test again 'PCM-less', and all of the interior systems (including the 'start' circuit) functioned as before. I couldn't confirm whether the A/C functioned normally but I can get around that.

So...other than the A/C, it appears I will no longer need the PCM - at all, which is good because I didn't want it in there in the first place. There is another computer under the dash - can't recall the exact name for it - but I'll continue to need it for the interior functionality and that's fine. All I'll need is separate sub-stations for solid B+ and 12v-switched power and grounds, and all of the new driveline systems (EFI, sensors, gauges, etc) will function normally.

Anyway, I'd long been wondering whether I'd still 'need' the PCM for anything after the driveline swap, and apparently the answer is 'no', and I thought that was worth mentioning.

- Sam
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Old 01-29-2019, 11:34 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Quick question about your engine. In the pic of the short block, is #1 at TDC, and if so did you measure how far below deck it is? I assume those are stock replacement low comp pistons. I'd appreciate that number if you have it.
Travis..
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Old 01-29-2019, 01:45 PM   #124 (permalink)
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yah that was with the slug at TDC, but no I did not measure how far down in the hole it was. The pistons are OE replacements, but I do know the kit came with 9-1 slugs vs the late 70's spec 8-1's - IIRC they're a bit taller compression height measured at the wrist pin. Sorry tho I don't have the actual specs.
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:23 AM   #125 (permalink)
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What head are you running, 452? I wonder what your true comp ratio is. It's been quite some time since I had my 70 440 apart, but with the stock pistons I think they were like .060 or .070 down @ TDC. My memory says that I calc'd it at just under 9.5:1 with FelPro .040 comp gaskets and 346 heads (which are virtually identical to 906 and 452 heads). Just curiosities stumbling around in my mind.
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