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Old 01-25-2020, 11:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dodge W150/360 Build

Hey there, I just finished disassembling my 360. Picked it up from some guy down in El Paso and was wondering what makes a good engine for offroading? Currently the W150 has a 2 inch body lift with 31's (just picked her up Sunday). I would like to go a bit higher and a bit bigger on the tires. Anyways, I'm wanting to bore the engine .030 over and make it good for offroading. Currently in New Mexico so it will see more trails than mud but hopefully in the future I can change that. This is my first engine build and I'm excited. Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2020, 03:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't bore the engine unless it needs to be bored. Take it to a reputable machine shop with good experience with older Mopar engines and let them measure it. There isn't much point in boring it out and replacing all the pistons if it doesn't need it unless you are looking for a big compression ratio upgrade.

Pick up a copy of this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small...0037172&sr=8-2

It will give you a lot of insight on how to rebuild an engine, the specifics to a Mopar small block that you will need to know and a lot of background knowledge that will be handy down the road. Even if you don't intend to assemble the engine yourself, it will educate you on the process so you can ask intelligent and relevant questions of the machinist and builder.
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Old 01-26-2020, 05:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^This^

I'll also add that you don't have to build something fancy or exotic, all you really want is a reliable, dependable engine that will serve you and your needs with little trouble and expense.

As for the rest of the truck, limit the tire size to 33s. Your axles should live a decent life

Ed
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Old 01-26-2020, 03:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ah I forgot to mention that the block had been sitting outside for awhile (got it from the owners son, said his dad hadn't moved it in at least 5 years.) When I got it, it was rusty and crusty. Took it all apart and the cylinder walls aren't horrible but they do have some scratches from them, which made me think I would have to bore them. I'll be calling the machine shop tomorrow as well as receiving that book tomorrow, thank you btw, as for pistons, one of them had a dent in the top.
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If a piston has a dent in the top, it's a good sign the engine dropped a valve at some point. I would have the rods checked for straightness and the heads magnafluxed. If the engine sat out in the weather disassembled for too long, it's a boat anchor.
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Engine was fully together minus the intake when I got it. I checked the rods of said piston and it looked just as good as the others. Kind of looks like someone hit it with a hammer. Super weird. I could turn the engine by hand though so don't think it'd did too much damage. I guess we'll see.
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Old 01-29-2020, 11:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So dropped the block off yesterday along with the internals. 2/8 of the cylinders are bad enough where it will need to be bored. He started talking about there being different heads for these engines and was wondering if anyone had a casting number for the good set of heads. If anyone has any recommendations if I should upgrade anything and what I should get. Thank you!
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Old 01-30-2020, 03:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Magnum heads are a huge upgrade for a small block Mopar, but do require a bit of thought to make work. You also have to be careful with getting used head cores to rebuild as cracks are fairly common. New aftermarket aluminum versions are reasonably priced and worth the cost if you are looking to go that far.
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Old 01-30-2020, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can buy new aftermarket Magnum heads with the LA intake bolt pattern, they are made by a company called Engine Quest.
Travis..
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Old 01-30-2020, 03:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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To use Magnum heads, you must also use Magnum individually mounted rockers (1.6-1 ratio vs. 1.5-1 on the stock shaft type rockers) custom length hollow pushrods and use AMC style lifters to allow the rockers to get oil. Stock, early rocker arm covers will fit, but the Magnum valve covers will seal better (10 bolts vs 5). Also, you must use Magnum head bolts, the lengths are slightly different, they are not expensive as stock replacements..

Engine Quest iron heads flow very well compared to the stock Magnum heads. The ports are revised for flow. Work even better port matched and the valve pockets smoothed out (Mildly ported)

Indy Cylinder Heads sell iron replacements with the improved Magnum ports that uses the stock early style rocker arm shaft assembly.
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Old 01-30-2020, 11:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Whoops I forgot to mention the 360 is a LA. I looked up engine quest and looks like they only have magnum. I was gonna try and call in the morning to see if they have the intake pattern like crash mentioned. Any recommendations on piston/camshaft? Sorry for all the newbish questions, been a ford guy all my life and now figured i'd explore into the other brands. Also first engine i'm doing and don't wanna fuck anything up. Again, thanks for all the help so far.
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Old 01-31-2020, 12:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Also i've figured out a HP goal for about 450. I know that's just about pushing it and from what i've read its do-able. Don't really have a budget as I want to do this right, just want to know what brand/metal i should go with. It will be a mudding truck so don't have to worry too much about comfort or anything like that. Also for those asking why I don't just get a big block, got this one for free and wanting to get into engine building so not trying to spend a bunch of money for the block just for me to potentially mess up. Maybe in the future i'll get a big block and use the experience I use from this into that. But for now, keeping the 360

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Old 01-31-2020, 08:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If it's in the budget, you might look into a stroker kit. Would make it a 408 with a .030" over bore and a 4" stroke crank. Summit Racing sells stroked crate motors. (Short or long block, plus the stroker kits.)
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Old 01-31-2020, 10:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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If you really want 450 horsepower, you will most likely need aftermarket heads to make it happen. You might call EQ and Indy to see what their heads will support, but I'm guessing that would be outside the limits of a production style head.
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Old 01-31-2020, 10:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cool i'll definitely call EQ up and see if they have heads that support my engine. Also not really looking for a crate motor (unless I would need that for a 4" stroke?)
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Typically, a 450 hp 360 won't make much bottom end power but will have that kind of power over 6000 rpm, not usually that good for a trail truck. You would need some high flow, big valve, ported aftermarket heads, a wild cam, big carb, etc.

About the easiest way to have high HP with good bottom end in a small block is a turbo or a supercharger. Here's a Vortech supercharger kit for small block Mopars with V belt drive:


https://treperformance.com/i-2390096...nt=Catch%20All
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Old 02-01-2020, 09:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Fuck that. Just build a good, reliable engine with good parts and a balanced bottom end and run it. Unless you are making something exotic, there is no point in power adders. If you want a reliable off road engine, build it as simple as possible. The 360 will make gobs of torque with the typical engine mods and that is what you want with a off road engine unless you want to be screaming around slamming into trees and rocks like a jackass.
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Old 02-01-2020, 02:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Haha i'll take a look in power adders but will probably wait on those. Yea the truck will see more trails for now but I plan on taking it mudding and as I was reading I realized all that power will be in the upper RPM's. So I guess i'll just go with high hp until 1) I can't stand it for what i'm doing 2)it breaks lol
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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If the truck has an automatic (727 I presume) you will need to upgrade that to handle the added power and the powerband of the engine. A higher than stock stall speed torque converter will be needed to make a high HP engine idle better and pull at lower vehicle speeds. A big trans cooler should be figured into the plans, too.

One source of custom Mopar converters:
Torque Converter 904 727 518 46rh 46re 47re 47rh 618 48re 545rfe
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Old 02-02-2020, 01:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty, SoCal View Post
If the truck has an automatic (727 I presume) you will need to upgrade that to handle the added power and the powerband of the engine. A higher than stock stall speed torque converter will be needed to make a high HP engine idle better and pull at lower vehicle speeds. A big trans cooler should be figured into the plans, too.

One source of custom Mopar converters:
Torque Converter 904 727 518 46rh 46re 47re 47rh 618 48re 545rfe
It has the 4 speed manual. Not too sure the name of it been trying to find it but no luck
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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It has the 4 speed manual. Not too sure the name of it been trying to find it but no luck
Should be a np435 manual transmission
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah, if it's 4WD, the only transmission it would have is the NP435.
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Old 02-02-2020, 03:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah, if it's 4WD, the only transmission it would have is the NP435.
Yea its 4wd, thanks! That's good info to know. Will it mate up to a 360? It currently has a 318 in it.
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Old 02-02-2020, 05:26 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yea its 4wd, thanks! That's good info to know. Will it mate up to a 360? It currently has a 318 in it.
Yes, the bellhousing is the same. You will need a flywheel specifically balanced for the 360 as they are externally balanced and the 318 is not. Be sure your crankshaft is drilled for the input shaft as many were not drilled for a manual transmission. Use the Magnum engine pilot bearing and not the old LS style bushing and all you will need is clearance for the end of the input and not have to have it drilled to finish size for the bushing. The Magnum bearing installs in the recess for the torque converter snout, which all the crankshafts have.
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Old 02-02-2020, 05:30 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yes, the bellhousing is the same. You will need a flywheel specifically balanced for the 360 as they are externally balanced and the 318 is not. Be sure your crankshaft is drilled for the input shaft as many were not drilled for a manual transmission. Use the Magnum engine pilot bearing and not the old LS style bushing and all you will need is clearance for the end of the input and not have to have it drilled to finish size for the bushing. The Magnum bearing installs in the recess for the torque converter snout, which all the crankshafts have.
Hmm okay, sounds simple on paper but I know i'd find a way to mess it up. Got the crankshaft/block/rods all at the machine shop right now. I'll try calling and see if he can drill that hole. Do you happen to know what size hole needs to be? Or any other info I should pass along to them?
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