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Old 03-13-2010, 08:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1st gen Cummins 2x4 to 4x4 conversion

I just bought (from the classifieds on here) a 92 Long Bed Extra Cab with 185,xxx miles. It's a 2x4 with a 5 spd (getrac) I got it to swap the motor into my K30. But the truck is so clean I think I'm going to keep it and make it a 4x4. For my new tow rig, I love the Extra Cab. I am going to do all the work, I just wanted some advice on little things.
Like gearing, it's got 4.10's now and stock tires but the motor is screaming at 70mph. I'm planning on going with the 37x17 toyo's. So what gears are you guys running with 37's? The front axle will be a chevy Dana 60 . I think I might get some military axles with 4.56's but that might be too low. Would a chevy 14bolt hold up?
Also is a swap to an nv4500 trans. Is there anything that swaps over like the bellhousing and cluch parts?
I'm planning on a few engine upgrades as well. I have been reading the diesel forums. First is gauges (Pyro, Boost, Tach). Then bigger Innercooler, turned up pump, bigger injectors, high flow exhaust, and intake maybe even head studs.
I will post up pics soon. I always liked the first gen cummins trucks I finally got one. Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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alot of work for a cheap truck, might be easier and cheaper to find another first gen 4x4. will have all the mounts and brackets to fit the front axle.

the getrag trans uses a different bell housing than a 4500. the 4500 in 2nd gen trucks use a left hand drop, 1st gens use a right hand drop. the cummins 205 is almost completely different than a chev/ford one. alot of surgery to get one to fit behind a cummins 4500 (i had to do that).

get the POD injectors, 16cm housing, turn up the screws, cold air intake, straight pipe, engine is done. don't waste your tme on intercoolers and much else. the pump is the choke in the system. P-pump it, and thats a whole new ball game.
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Cool man, thanks. I actually already have a nv4500 tail housing that was in my chevy it's mated to a 205 pass side. It does require a chevy main shaft for the nv4500 that's 32spl input though. It is a little bit of work but the truck is sooooo clean and wasn't that much money so I'm saying why not. This way I at least get an extra cab for my shit.
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'd find a 4X4 one to transplant everything into. I think it would be easier in the long run. It's not rocket science to find a late 80's/early 90's 1 ton dodge that is rotted up the body but still has a good frame under it... I mean hell, the bodies left the factory rusty!
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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nice!
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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post some pics.oh dont ditch the chevy
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Its going up for sale as soon as I get it back together. Its getting a new 60 (78 Ford HP60) with 4.88's and a Detroit locker. Also hyd assist from PSC and a ford 205 with a 32spl input mated to a chevy 4500 with out any high dollar adaptors. Oh and 35spl outers.
I can't have 2 tow trucks, I already have a toy (my blazer) and my daily driver (my little red S-10)
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Go for it, I just threw leafs and a 1979 Ford Dana 60 under my 97. I redid all the steering and front suspension. The only thing I really had ahead of you is a T-case already installed. Build it how you want better than the factory. Oh yeah I have 4:10's and 37's, it feels just about right to me towing and daily driving. I have a set of 35's if I hook to anything real heavy. I think you would be fine with 4:56's though and the 14 bolt should have a detroit. These things are useless in 2wd with an open rear and the weight of the cummins up front.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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alot of work for a cheap truck, might be easier and cheaper to find another first gen 4x4. will have all the mounts and brackets to fit the front axle.
the getrag trans uses a different bell housing than a 4500. the 4500 in 2nd gen trucks use a left hand drop, 1st gens use a right hand drop. the cummins 205 is almost completely different than a chev/ford one. alot of surgery to get one to fit behind a cummins 4500 (i had to do that).

get the POD injectors, 16cm housing, turn up the screws, cold air intake, straight pipe, engine is done. don't waste your tme on intercoolers and much else. the pump is the choke in the system. P-pump it, and thats a whole new ball game.
boy do i have the perfect truck for sale
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There was a post on here a couple of years ago by 55guy where he made his D250 club cab Cummins into a W250. Do a quick search, he pretty much lays out what is needed to do the job.
Travis..
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info guys. I can't wait. I think I will go with a chevy 60 though, I want to keep it low. I really like the 37 x 13.5 toyo's I have on my K30, shit there rated at 4300lbs each! So I'm going to get an axle get a set of wheels and tires and pretty much cake from there. Haha I'm sure I will run into a hole bunch of crap but that's the fun in wheelen. build it. I love working on my trucks.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If the truck is really clean and you have the ability I say go for it, finding a nice 4x4 first gen will cost you $7k+ around here if you can find a clean one at all, 2wds are alot more rare here but when you find one they are cheap and usualy mint, so you could easily make it 4x4 and still come out ahead.

Go to www.dieseltruckresource.com and look in the 1st gen section, there are a few people that have done the swap with dodge parts.

As far as the 4.10s that's what I have in my 91' with 35's and it does run higher RPMs on the highway but with a few mods it will do 95 now, which isn't bad becasue before it's barely did 70, so with the 37's I think it would be even more tolerable.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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post some pics.oh dont ditch the chevy:d
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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build the dodge, but you will need a chevy or early dodge 60. unless you use a ford tcase. in that case a ford 60 to a divorced mount ford 205. use some 56" gm springs and buy some universal mounts. not that hard of a swap. plus the dodge is not as common, wich is a good thing, its gotta be easier adding an axle to than a complete cummins swap.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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build the dodge, but you will need a chevy or early dodge 60. unless you use a ford tcase. in that case a ford 60 to a divorced mount ford 205. use some 56" gm springs and buy some universal mounts. not that hard of a swap. plus the dodge is not as common, wich is a good thing, its gotta be easier adding an axle to than a complete cummins swap.
I agree I got the truck for the motor, but now going to sell my K30 and keep the dodge. Also is there enough room under the dodge to run a 4500 to Ford 205 to 79 HP 60? I mean when I get under there the hyd clutch is way low on the drivers side. I don't want a stupidly tall truck, I already have a 4500 to Ford 205 tail housing and T-case, also a 79' Ford HP 60 with Chevy outers. I need a bellhousing and clutch stuff. I'm wondering if there is more room with the 4500. I am not afraid to trim the fenders, this is NOT going to be a tall truck maybe 4" from stock 4x4, on 37's. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Stick with the 4.10's and 37's. I ran that same setup and it was perfect. The 4x4 conversion is easier than people think. Spend the money and get some good front springs like something with double military wrap eye's.
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Old 03-24-2010, 07:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks man, Is there anyone out there that did a drivers drop w/HP 60 in a first gen? I just don't want to get all the parts ready to find out that its alot more work than doing a pass drop. Remember its a 2x truck so there is nothing to go on (hold me back). I just want to get my shit lined up before I sit on the pot.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:46 AM   #18 (permalink)
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HP60 would be cool. You could cluck the T-case up and still have all the room on the pass side to run big exhaust. I'm pretty sure the fuel tank is far enough back for a D/S drop transfercase. What are your plans for an engine mount crossmember?
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My concerns are about the tranny clutch parts being in the way. As far as the engine crossmember goes I figure remove the stock 2x4 and build a new one out of some box tubing. Maybe 2x4 3/16".
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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still have all the room on the pass side to run big exhaust.
That's a lot of the reason, also because I already have a 4500 to 205 tail housing, a ford 205 with 32spl input, a HP 78' ford 60 with Chevy outers.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Rock and roll then! I'm trying like hell to find the urethane replacement engine mounts. I think Autoworld.com makes them. Those 1st gen mounts let the engine move too much in the engine bay for me. Kinda like a wet noodle. I'm on the same path as you on the Dodge 2wd to 4x4 but I've decided I like my 85 K3500 Chevy better so the Cummins is going into it. Check out Avalanche Engineering's crossmember for some ideas.
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Old 03-24-2010, 02:24 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thats funny I have a 84' K30 that it was going to go in but I like the extra cab of the dodge better than the std cab of the chevy. What year is your dodge maybe I can buy some stuff off of you for mine, I also have alot of chevy stuff if you want to do some trading.
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Old 03-24-2010, 02:53 PM   #23 (permalink)
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A 4" downpipe will fit without having to swap the front axle from pass. to drivers side.
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thats funny I have a 84' K30 that it was going to go in but I like the extra cab of the dodge better than the std cab of the chevy. What year is your dodge maybe I can buy some stuff off of you for mine, I also have alot of chevy stuff if you want to do some trading.
92 D250 std cab. Let me know whatcha need.
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yo Jack, PM replied.
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