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Old 03-26-2010, 10:26 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just4cuz View Post
Rumor has it that the F-250 D50TTB front has a 44 center different beams than the 1/2 ton and 60 outers from the balls joints out.
I've seen a few in the wrecking yard and those F-250 TTB outers sure do have big hubs!

As for the half ton, I would guess pretty much any Ford ball joint 44 knuckle would fit especially if the D44 TTB knuckles are the same as the solid axle ones.

Just need to get rid of the coupler axle and mechanism on the long side.
D50TTB is a 44 center section with 60 outers. So yes the f250 TTB stuff should work. Also these were less desireable trucks and parts can be gotten on the really cheap around here.


Rusty

Last edited by rustyolred; 03-26-2010 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:25 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks for the confirmation!
I've seen several F250 TTB's in the wrecking yard since the dialing for dollars rebate program. WTF did they call that again? Oh yea Cash for Clunkers, that encouraged people to trade in good old American steel and buy a friggin Toyota with unintended acceleration tendencies!
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyolred View Post
D50TTB is [similar to] a 44 [D44 8.5" ring rear, 1.31" 30 spline inner, 1.21" outers] center section[D50 9" ring gear, 1.31"/30 spline inner & outer] with 60 outers [with smaller U-joints1310 vs 1480WJ/5332X]. So yes the f250 TTB stuff should work. Also these were less desireable trucks and parts can be gotten on the really cheap around here.


Rusty
Assuming the ball joint spread matches, I'd think a D50TTB knuckle/spindle/hub would work, with D60 outer stub. Anybody want to test it out?


Nice write up 79Fordgirl
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Last edited by guidolyons; 03-26-2010 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:17 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I need to go to a scrap yard! I have 4 dodges begging for this conversion.

This would be a great upgrade for 94-01 dodges that have the central axle disconnect (CAD). No more vacuum to worry about. And no unitized bearing!
I believe that the front axle parts are the same from 94-02 for the most part. In 98 they went to 32 spline shafts from the 30 splines found in 94-97. In 02 the got rid of the CAD and went to a one piece shaft on the passenger side.

So to do the conversion what all do you need to steal from the ford... D50? or D60
Knuckles
Stub shaft
Spindle
Hub
New ball joints
New disks
What calipers did you use?
Anything else....?

Great write up and pics.

Last edited by DSLstuff; 03-27-2010 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:38 PM   #30 (permalink)
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assuming if you owned a 1 ton dually you could use ford dually knuckles for the same result.... wish I hadnt of just redone the entire front end of my dodge 2 months ago. But as soon as my wheel bearings go again you can bet this will be my solution.
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DSLstuff View Post
I need to go to a scrap yard! I have 4 dodges begging for this conversion.

This would be a great upgrade for 94-01 dodges that have the central axle disconnect (CAD). No more vacuum to worry about. And no unitized bearing!
I believe that the front axle parts are the same from 94-02 for the most part. In 98 they went to 32 spline shafts from the 30 splines found in 94-97. In 02 the got rid of the CAD and went to a one piece shaft on the passenger side.

So to do the conversion what all do you need to steal from the ford... D50? or D60
Knuckles
Stub shaft
Spindle
Hub
New ball joints
Dodge disks I assume?
What calipers did you use?
Anything else....?

Great write up and pics.
I would take everything from the ball joints out. The write up included the use of the Ford dual piston calipers and Ford rotors because she said the stud sizes were different. Just use all the Ford stuff from the ball joints out...and the 60 outer stub.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:49 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Any reason the Dodge Calipers wouldn't bolt up and work?
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:08 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Might not mount up to the Ford Knuckle. Dodge single piston caliper has 2 bolts holding it to the knuckle. Ford Caliper slides in with the wedge plates. take a second look at the pictures, I think it shows the difference.
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:58 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Not to go too far off topic, but I did my hub bearings today and ended up using some length of pipe to go between the rotor (i have the pressed on rotors) and a suspension mount on the axle, had dad sit in the truck and crank the steering. After doing it for about 30-60 seconds on the front and then back of the rotor, they popped right out and the bearings were no worse than they already were.

As well I was told today that Snap-on makes a socket specifically for the socket method for about $35, that was original plan B, but didn't get to it so I don't know for sure if its true.

The new plan B was the OTC tools (HIGH quality stuff for daily use in shops, but can be found easily on Ebay and Amazon) makes a puller specifically for this application. It also fits other applications for GM and Ford. I found it on Ebay for less than $100 and it seems like it would be the shit for doing these fuggers. The part number is 6290 I believe.

Just thought it was something to add to this and the other threads with bearing removal stuff in them.
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:05 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Really good info! Much easier than swapping the whole front axle to kingpin style, what I've planned on doing. Only problem is to find those Ford parts, in this part of the world they are rare and pricey.
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:51 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Like stated earlier, get D50 TTB parts. They are plentiful and should be CHEAP.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:19 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Nice write-up. A good, cheap alternative to the dynatrac hub conversion
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:33 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rustyolred View Post
Like stated earlier, get D50 TTB parts. They are plentiful and should be CHEAP.
You do it and take some pics so we can laugh at you.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:17 PM   #39 (permalink)
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What is there to laugh at?
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:45 PM   #40 (permalink)
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D50TTB is a 44 center section with 60 outers. So yes the f250 TTB stuff should work. Also these were less desireable trucks and parts can be gotten on the really cheap around here.


Rusty
Can anyone confirm the D50TTB being able to swap like the ford D60 ? Judging by some responses I'm not sure it is proven to work.

edit: This link seems to clear things up.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/896039-dana-50-vs-dana-60-outers.html


Spindles and stub shafts are different!!! That being said, I don't know if it makes a difference since the whole knuckle is being swapped, thus just having to get Ford D60 stub shafts...
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:14 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I stand corrected. I was just going off of what I was told by a "Ford" guy.



Rusty
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:17 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I heard that the ball joint angle is different on the TTB 50's... I haven't ever looked though. There's a free TTB50 truck down the road I should check...
I do know for a fact that the spindles are different (from the king pin spindles) but I am not sure about the stub shafts. The king pin spindles will work on the ball joint knuckles or TTB50's, but the ball joint and TTB50 spindles "shouldn't" be used on king pin 60's. The lip the protrudes into the knuckle/brake bracket isn't as deep on the TTB50 and ball joint 60 spindles as the king pin 60 spindle is.


You do need all ford stuff from the BJs out, but not because of the stud size. I screwed up and put the older hubs on which for that year, Ford ran smaller studs. At some point in time Ford swapped to bigger studs, which are the same as the Dodge size stud. I just didn't realize that Ford ever ran different sizes until I was looking for lug nuts.

Last edited by 79fordgirl; 11-04-2010 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:34 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I have a set of the dodge 60's that were given to me and the sme guy had a dana 50 ttb so I measured in hopes of a cheap conversion like this one,,,

the dana 50 does have a different caster angle than the dodge, however ford has adjustment bushings in the upper part of the C that the upper balljoint goes into.

I roughly measured with a tape that the difference in the angle was just under 1/4" and that the ford adjuster would fit with about 1/16" of reaming.

I have yet to try this so cannot verify either way, but can say that it would appear to workout fine if they are the only affordable knuckels around.

on a nother note, if finding junk yard knuckles is out of the question Solid Axle sells a converdion knuckle that i believe takes over the counter components like spindles and brakes and stubs for a reasonable price..

http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart...gory=9#details

good write up 79fordgirl, especially for those who can find the parts at a good price.

Sam
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:05 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I have a set of the dodge 60's that were given to me and the sme guy had a dana 50 ttb so I measured in hopes of a cheap conversion like this one,,,

the dana 50 does have a different caster angle than the dodge, however ford has adjustment bushings in the upper part of the C that the upper balljoint goes into.

I roughly measured with a tape that the difference in the angle was just under 1/4" and that the ford adjuster would fit with about 1/16" of reaming.

I have yet to try this so cannot verify either way, but can say that it would appear to workout fine if they are the only affordable knuckels around.

on a nother note, if finding junk yard knuckles is out of the question Solid Axle sells a converdion knuckle that i believe takes over the counter components like spindles and brakes and stubs for a reasonable price..

http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart...gory=9#details

good write up 79fordgirl, especially for those who can find the parts at a good price.

Sam
Solid's knuckles last time I checked, and according to the pics I see, are a 6 stud spindle set up (GM/Dodge king pin style spindles/outers). I don't know if you could just drill and run the Ford 5 stud set up or if that makes a huge mess hub/rotor/caliper/pad/stub shaft wise...
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:49 PM   #45 (permalink)
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If your going to do that you can just drill the ford spindles to match the dodge knuckles. I was told you can just run the spindles and ford outer that way. I havnt tried it yet but I will when I can get over to the yard and grab some parts.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:31 PM   #46 (permalink)
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If your going to do that you can just drill the ford spindles to match the dodge knuckles. I was told you can just run the spindles and ford outer that way. I havnt tried it yet but I will when I can get over to the yard and grab some parts.
This works, I did it 6 years ago and it's still all together in my Bronco. The D50 knuckles have too much camber and adjustable balljoint bushings isn't enough. The D50 spindles and hubs work okay, but D60 work better.

*Edit: This is an OFF ROAD modification I did to my OFF ROAD rig, and posted on an OFF ROAD website. If you do this to your Mall Cruiser DODge and things go shithouse, it ain't on me. You shoulda bought a FORD!*






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Old 03-30-2010, 08:12 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Solid's knuckles last time I checked, and according to the pics I see, are a 6 stud spindle set up (GM/Dodge king pin style spindles/outers). I don't know if you could just drill and run the Ford 5 stud set up or if that makes a huge mess hub/rotor/caliper/pad/stub shaft wise...
I hadn't noticed that, good point though.

why wouldn't you use dodge or GM outters on them rather than Ford?

Sam
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:59 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Almost certain this is the case but figured I would check... 92-96 Ford hubs off a DRW can't simply be broken down to work with a SRW dodge, you specifically need 92-96 SRW ford hubs to fit a SRW Dodge dana 60. Right?
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:57 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Yes the dually hubs are cast as one piece. You should be able to run any SRW Ford hubs from 77.5-97 ish.

If you want to check out that Dodge sometimes it's in CT when 79fordgirl visits me!

I bet she has some spare Ford SRW hubs kicking around from the sounds of it too...
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:03 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I hadn't noticed that, good point though.

why wouldn't you use dodge or GM outters on them rather than Ford?

Sam
The internal locking hub GM and Dodge hubs are usually wayyyy more money. Like $250 a pair used vs FREE.
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