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Old 08-11-2010, 09:02 AM   #76 (permalink)
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No, she didn't, it was just reflection.
ahh I don't know about that. You can see the over spray right here.

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Old 08-11-2010, 11:54 AM   #77 (permalink)
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NICE!

Questions for the OP... you said your "tires" stick out 3/4 to 1" more... is this per side of total?? I could do with 1" total... but per side would make me 4" wider than the rear axle Stupid narrow 14 bolt.

The other question... will dodge calipers work on these knuckles? I understand that you are using them but it wasn't clear if its an option to keep the original calipers.

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Old 08-12-2010, 10:14 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Due to the caliper mounts being cast as part of the knuckles on both the Dodge and the Ford knuckles in the year ranges mentioned you have to run the corresponding Dodge knuckle with Dodge caliper and Ford Knuckle with Ford Caliper.

Been about 15K miles on this set up now. Still going great! Did 20.1 MPG the last time we checked (that's with a Cummins, 47RE, 4.10 gears and 245/75R16's...).
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:56 PM   #79 (permalink)
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YOur a CHICK Thats Awsome!!! I started reading the post and then you said Me and I was like What and looked at the picture lol. Excellent right Up. I wondered about doing this myself. Very informative.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:53 AM   #80 (permalink)
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If you need parts I have a COMPLETE collection of parts to do this swap for sale.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:16 PM   #81 (permalink)
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what are you asking?
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:41 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Hey i picked up a dana 60 that is supposedly off of a 97 f350 to do this conversion on my dodge and after i got it noticed one of the spindles are hootched, i measured it to make sure the dimensions are right but what im confused on is the flange is 6.5" and all the ones that i can find for that year range are 7" and the ones for the older ones are 6.5" will it matter which one i get or not?
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:03 PM   #83 (permalink)
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How does the Ford caliper fluid volumn compare to the single piston Dodge calipers? To original poster: How do the brakes work compared to stock? Any change in pedal travel or firmness?
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:07 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Pedal seems firmer and maybe a bit less travel? Braking power is improved. I don't know if it's because of new fluid, new pads, or just because of the different brake set up. Hard to know or tell unless I went from new stock stuff to the new Ford stuff.
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:18 AM   #85 (permalink)
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axles

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Yes, dodge inners and ford stub shafts. and yes, ball joints out is all ford.
I am in the process of trying to locate the correct parts however I did not see how the other side of the axle was done. The cad was used or deleted? . The pro and cons of the cad when adding the manual hubs. I talked to a fellow that thought the twin ibeam axle could be used for the parts I need but I am not sure about that. Thanks For you insight and help Jim
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:15 PM   #86 (permalink)
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they have identified that the TTB knuckle is not transferable to the Dodge. In regards to the CAD, it is retained unless you choose to add a CAD delete kit. There are some benefits to the CAD, essentially you can utilize it as a selectable locker by installing a spool in the front. You will need to convert the CAD to the cable actuated type and delete the vacuum. Downside would be that the CAD is now the weak link!
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:32 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I am in the process of trying to locate the correct parts however I did not see how the other side of the axle was done. The cad was used or deleted? . The pro and cons of the cad when adding the manual hubs. I talked to a fellow that thought the twin ibeam axle could be used for the parts I need but I am not sure about that. Thanks For you insight and help Jim
We kept the CAD, much more convenient in the winter when we need to be going in an out of 4x4 often. When the roads are clear and decent traction we will unlock the hubs again till the next storm or next time 4x4 is needed.

Mostly TTB50 parts are what we used on the truck:

The spindles, wheel hubs, locking hubs, spindle nuts (the 5 little guys, and the bearing retainer nuts), and calipers we got from a TTB50.

The only part you would be missing is the outer knuckle and stub shaft, the TTB uses a different angle to the ball joints so I am told. You will need to locate a ball joint Dana 60 outer knuckle and stub shaft.

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they have identified that the TTB axle is not transferable to the Dodge. In regards to the CAD, it is retained unless you choose to add a CAD delete kit. There are some benefits to the CAD, essentially you can utilize it as a selectable locker by installing a spool in the front. You will need to convert the CAD to the cable actuated type and delete the vacuum. Downside would be that the CAD is now the weak link!
Please edit your post, you have your information wrong and I don't want people to be confused. All of the TTB50 parts fit except the outer knuckle/shaft.

I prefer my vacuum actuated CAD. They have always worked for us and never had a single issue. No reason to fix something that hasn't ever broke/malfunctioned for us.

Last edited by 79fordgirl; 11-04-2010 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:47 PM   #88 (permalink)
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axles

Thats good to know about the cad. I had thought to delete it but if it has some advantages ok. There are a couple of seals inside the axle housing that the both inner axles seal on. I had thought that they may need replacing at the time of change over to ford. Are there any parts that need refreshing on the cad, was not sure what supports the axles.
I wont to thank every one for there help. To get rid of the unit bearing, and have locking hubs will be great. To have dual caliper brakes and good rotors in the process. That is just extra
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:50 PM   #89 (permalink)
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corrected, thanks! I was referring to being unable to use the entire knuckle out on a TTB50, but I can see where that would get confused. I really like the cable actuated CAD vs vacuum. I did a delete kit on mine and used an EMS kit so I could go to 35spl. 2 years later I am still tracking down a vacuum leak...lol
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:16 AM   #90 (permalink)
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cad

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corrected, thanks! I was referring to being unable to use the entire knuckle out on a TTB50, but I can see where that would get confused. I really like the cable actuated CAD vs vacuum. I did a delete kit on mine and used an EMS kit so I could go to 35spl. 2 years later I am still tracking down a vacuum leak...lol
I talked to fellow at work who had problems with his cad Worn bushing or where the axles are supported. I think I will delete my cad. What is involved in replacing the cad with the kit. Thanks for your help. Jim
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:31 AM   #91 (permalink)
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The CAD delete kit is very simple. You replace the passenger side 2 piece shaft with a 1 piece shaft. Remove the CAD actuator. Replace the CAD actuator with a metal plate with some RTV or a gasket. That's it. I would warn you that there is no inner seal on the passenger side of the carrier. The seal is located at the CAD so be very careful replacing the shaft and not dislodging it or it will leak. Ask me how I know!
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:04 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply. my friend had problems with his leaking oil at that seal and I believe he said his seal leaked because of worn bushing allowing the shaft drop from center. Jim
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:24 PM   #93 (permalink)
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they make seals to insert at the knuckle to prevent debris/mud/etc from entering the axle tube. I don't recall the manufacturer, but I would find them and install while you have it apart, next time I have mine apart I will be purchasing a set. If you find them, post them up.

I purchased my hub eliminator kit and CAD delete from EMS offroad. I have 35 spline shafts, so the seals won't be the same as yours, but they recently came out with a new seal that installs in the diff at the tube connection. You have to pull the carrier to install it, but it is a good upgrade and will keep fluid from leaving your diff during articulation. Your front breather hose is also attached at the CAD, so it would be a good time to drill and tap a breather on the diff housing itself.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:26 AM   #94 (permalink)
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seals and brake parts

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they make seals to insert at the knuckle to prevent debris/mud/etc from entering the axle tube. I don't recall the manufacturer, but I would find them and install while you have it apart, next time I have mine apart I will be purchasing a set. If you find them, post them up.

I purchased my hub eliminator kit and CAD delete from EMS offroad. I have 35 spline shafts, so the seals won't be the same as yours, but they recently came out with a new seal that installs in the diff at the tube connection. You have to pull the carrier to install it, but it is a good upgrade and will keep fluid from leaving your diff during articulation. Your front breather hose is also attached at the CAD, so it would be a good time to drill and tap a breather on the diff housing itself.
I need to add the seals to the out side of the axles. I never liked the idea of mud and crap getting into the axle housing. Good idea to add the vent tube . I hate oil leaks so I wont to change out all of the seals on the tubes. I will do a search on the seals and part numbers
I need to replace the u joints ball joints and wont new rotors, calipers. Are there any better parts of just what I get at the parts store? Thanks Jim
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:40 AM   #95 (permalink)
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there are ALWAYS better parts, whether or not they are cost effective for how much better they are is questionable.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:50 AM   #96 (permalink)
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ball joints

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there are ALWAYS better parts, whether or not they are cost effective for how much better they are is questionable.
That is true, I was not sure on the ball joints if they are adjustable as far as camber setting . If one brand last longer and doesnot cost a lot more ect. . I fully expect to spend some money, however hopefully one time. I wont u joint that can be greased. Thanks for your help . Jim
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:59 PM   #97 (permalink)
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We kept the CAD, much more convenient in the winter when we need to be going in an out of 4x4 often. When the roads are clear and decent traction we will unlock the hubs again till the next storm or next time 4x4 is needed.


I prefer my vacuum actuated CAD. They have always worked for us and never had a single issue. No reason to fix something that hasn't ever broke/malfunctioned for us.
i like the CAD as well, and i was just thinking the same thing that you stated at first. keep them locked when you know your going to need them in the near future and shift in and out of 4 wheel, and lock/unlock diff (if you have a selectable). then when its street driven or no chance of shift-on-the-fly 4wheel drive, unlock the hubs and enjoy the free-spin gas mileage.

very cool upgrade. im gonna be building a D60 with almost a bare housing and i will source these parts from the start.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:21 PM   #98 (permalink)
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you find another set Texas97?
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:14 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Well I can confirm this is a direct bolt in swap and a great upgrade. I just did my 98 dually and got much improved braking, deleted the unit bearing and with the locking hubs I now have the option of 2low at the boat ramp and shift on the fly capability, plus the comfort of knowing that if the transfer case lever goes into 4wd you ARE in 4wd and not relying on a vaccum system to finish the job. I used a 97 SRW donor and had custom 3-3/4"dually spacers made from Fred at wheel adapters.com that indexed on the ford hub and piloted my existing dodge alcoas. The stock dodge spacers don't have enough meat on them to be bored out to clear the ford drive hub. I am 1/2" wider overall but you can't make the spacer any shorter or you will hit on the calipers. I used the ford steering as the dodge TREs were the right taper but a little to small and sucked to far up into the knuckles. The ford system works fine you just need a 3-1/2" longer tie rod adjuster-custom made or you can weld two stock adjusters together if you are comfortable with that, but the draglink was the correct length and fit the pitman arm perfectly.

Thanks 79fordgirl!!
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:42 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Well I can confirm this is a direct bolt in swap and a great upgrade. I just did my 98 dually and got much improved braking, deleted the unit bearing and with the locking hubs I now have the option of 2low at the boat ramp and shift on the fly capability, plus the comfort of knowing that if the transfer case lever goes into 4wd you ARE in 4wd and not relying on a vaccum system to finish the job. I used a 97 SRW donor and had custom 3-3/4"dually spacers made from Fred at wheel adapters.com that indexed on the ford hub and piloted my existing dodge alcoas. The stock dodge spacers don't have enough meat on them to be bored out to clear the ford drive hub. I am 1/2" wider overall but you can't make the spacer any shorter or you will hit on the calipers. I used the ford steering as the dodge TREs were the right taper but a little to small and sucked to far up into the knuckles. The ford system works fine you just need a 3-1/2" longer tie rod adjuster-custom made or you can weld two stock adjusters together if you are comfortable with that, but the draglink was the correct length and fit the pitman arm perfectly.

Thanks 79fordgirl!!


:thumbsup: you're welcome!
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