Dodge dually Dana 70-2U (1989) disc brake conversion - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dodge dually Dana 70-2U (1989) disc brake conversion

I didn't find a recipe specifically for the d70-2U dually rear out of a Dodge - so here it is. Took longer than I expected - results are worth it none-the-less.

Parts (I'll fill more of these in when I walk back out to the shop and examine receipts)

Caliper Brackets are from diy4x.com - D70 HD brackets for crew cab Chevy duallys (figured I'd give these a shot...)
Calipers - standard Chevy 3/4 ton front 73-87 etc.
Rotors - 2003 Chevy 3500 Express Van rear dually rotor (most all 1 ton rear dually rotors in the 2000+ GM stuff)
Studs - Dorman 610-215 (factory stud for this axle)
Brake lines - Chevette 1979 front lines

Starting point... 1990 Ramcharger w/1tons - usual stuff.


9/16" studs I swapped into this rear 12 years ago aren't long enough after the addition of a 1/2" spacer plate


Wheel/tire removed - large dually drum exposed... as well as my eBay-made in china 1/2" spacer plate.


Top view to show how the axle necks down before the brake backing plate flange. Don't make fun of my un-cut U-bolts...


Axle pulled, hole stuffed...


Hub/drum pulled... time for a brake job? heh... (for the keen eyes - I did away with the E brake 12 years ago...)


Muck...


Drum brake backing plate removed to reveal 4 bolt flange


Rear shot to show the distance between the flange and spindle on a dually rear as well as the axle 'neck' down...
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Dressing the flange up a bit - the caliper brackets didn't quite fit - I massaged the bracket on the passenger side vs. the step in the flange on the drivers side...


Caliper bracket had many holes... I drilled my own for two reasons - place the air bleeder at the 12 o'clock position for ease of air evacuation and to miss the springs with the caliper bolts




New custom hole positions scribed...


Drilling the rotor holes out to 11/16ths - I had a friend open up the hub hole from ~4.8" to 5.2" on a lathe (goofed that, didn't have to go quite so big... no biggie)


Massaging the made in china 1/2" wheel spacer plates to 43/64ths


Drilling the four new 1/2" flange mounting holes in the caliper brackets


Bolting on the caliper bracket


Getting set up to press in the studs
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Afterwards checking to see if a .003 feeler gauge would snag under the edge of the stud head - none did - good enuff...


Black paint


Spindle cleaned up a bit


Hub/rotor back on


Axle back in


Attempting to show where I ground the caliper slightly in two places - as well as a couple different places on each pad to prevent 'rubbing'


Caliper mounted - everything clears nicely...




I see that I need to break down and fab up the HD rear spring plates I've always talked about...

Last edited by jopickens; 12-12-2011 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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'79 Chevette front brake line


Taking up some slack in the passenger side brake line with a couple squiggles... heh




Spacer plate back on...


5/8" lug nuts now have a better hold on the slightly longer factory dually studs




Caliper in a convenient location for cleaning/inspection - I'll post pics of the first rock that leaves a mark...
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks good. I saw the three grinders on the floor and smiled. I do the same thing.

Where did you get the caliper bracket from?
Really? lol 3 lines down
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You've got to have more than one grinder or you will waste a lot of time swapping wheels. One to grind, one for a flap wheel and one with either a different grit stone for grinding, twisted wire wheel or a cutting wheel.

Good tech here though and well detailed.
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So how does it feel now that it's done?
Front/rear balance ok?
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You've got to have more than one grinder or you will waste a lot of time swapping wheels.
So very true... Last 1/2 dozen of them I purchased on sale @ HFreight $8.99 / grinder. Compared to one high end brand? I can buy a dozen or more... tell me that high end brand is going to outlast 15 cheapies... Now if I had to feed my family from the production/reliability from one grinder... completely different story. (That was for all you Mac/Snap-On gurus out there...)

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Good tech here though and well detailed.
Thank you - will add more details upon request.

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So how does it feel now that it's done?
Front/rear balance ok?
Excellent question, thank you for asking.
Only one trip to town and back on the setup thus far.
Braking from 40/50 mph to 0 feels very confident and as expected (probably very near factory ramcharger setup specs - i.e. the discs in the back helping account for the reduced mech. advatage the braking system sees due to the 'taller' tire and of course the extra weight from 1tons and other various mods).
On my other ramchargers I have always upgraded to a 1ton brake booster and master cylinder - typically before I put the lifted/modified rig into service - leaving me without a 'baseline'.
For now I'm happy with the factory ramcharger 1/2 ton booster/master cylinder. I'll wait until something fails with the current setup before swapping in some of my leftover components.
Of course, not only am I going from drums to disc - I've migrated from completely worn out drum brakes to disc. 8-)
I will say that braking in reverse on an incline is MUCH improved. (one of my most important goals of this swap).
My driveway is a decent slope and paved. In neutral drifting backwards to a speed of 15/20mph and nailing the brakes - it stops quickly and you hear a slight howl from the front iroks draggin' a bit. Since the rear brake setup is much like that of a 3/4 ton chevy front brakes - what I have experienced thus far has been expected.
My reverse braking test prior to this conversion with the wore out rear drums resulted in the front tires locking up and my rearward progress continuing along happily... heh
BUT this rig spends most all of it's time off road so your typically in 4wd where independent results from front/rear axles don't matter as much - if you had crazy awesome front disc brakes for instance... barring a driveline failure you wouldn't even need rear stoppers.

As for front/rear balance... I'm VERY happy. I haven't got the rear to lock up under what I consider very hard braking. i.e. simulating an emergency stop to prevent an accident. I know my pig is heavy - large toolbox and spare batteries/parts el mucho tools / recovery gear in the rear - typical SUV weight distribution to boot.

I'll quit yabbering...
Josh

Last edited by jopickens; 02-20-2011 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I was just searching for drw D70 disc brakes and you post a clean and well detailed install, good timing.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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did you remove the residual pressure valve from the proportioning valve or are you running an adjustable valve?

did you make your own brackets for the hoses/lines?
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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did you remove the residual pressure valve from the proportioning valve or are you running an adjustable valve?
I am currently running it factory... plan was to remove the proportioning valve all together... at a minimum the RPV to keep the pads from prematurely wearing etc. I have about 10 miles on the setup thus far.
What are your thoughts on removing it all together? Lockup the rears too quickly/often? Could try it/experiment a bit - and add an adjustable valve later if necessary - as you mentioned.

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did you make your own brackets for the hoses/lines?
Still on the todo list - going to attach a modified factory hard line to soft line bracket with another nut/washer to one of my hyper long U bolts I believe...
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i plan on doing this to my truck but i do have one questiong for you Jo what size are your rims i have read that i cant run my factory 16's
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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17s in those pics - 16.5 h1s now w/no Issues
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Old 02-10-2012, 04:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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isn't it possible to switch the hub and rotor around? so you have the rotor on the outside? for easier removal. now you have to remove the studs to switch rotor
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You mentioned that on your other rig you swapped in a one ton master and booster. What did you source them from? Was it a disc/disc master?
Gearing up to do this on my 83 W150.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:36 AM   #16 (permalink)
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isn't it possible to switch the hub and rotor around? so you have the rotor on the outside? for easier removal. now you have to remove the studs to switch rotor
I guess if you used a much later model (maybe 2001 ?) D70 hub that was factory rear disc designed to have the rotor float outside of the hub and not be pressed on like the above example. If you look above the ID of the rotor hat would be huge to get over this '89 D70 hub. I'm sure you could machine 'some' off the hub outside the circumference of the studs... but regardless it would end up with a larger diameter rotor flange for the calipers to clamp - thus necessitating much larger wheels and a different/larger caliper bracket. Those are my immediate thoughts... I agree with the direction of your question... but I can't imagine how many years it would be before I had to replace these rear rotors due to wear etc. I put 200k on the rear D80 rotors of my 2001 CTD towing a LOT before they gave up. 8-)
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:39 AM   #17 (permalink)
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You mentioned that on your other rig you swapped in a one ton master and booster. What did you source them from? Was it a disc/disc master?
Gearing up to do this on my 83 W150.
No it wasn't disc/disc although I'm sure that would be optimal. It was sourced from an '89 1 ton dodge dually chassis cab truck if that is any different from a standard 3/4 or 1 ton. It was a 360 gas truck too FYI.
In my current 'rebuild' while replacing lines I'll probably do away with the proportioning valve giddyup and run straight to the front/rear from the respective master cylinder ports.
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I guess if you used a much later model (maybe 2001 ?) D70 hub that was factory rear disc designed to have the rotor float outside of the hub and not be pressed on like the above example. If you look above the ID of the rotor hat would be huge to get over this '89 D70 hub. I'm sure you could machine 'some' off the hub outside the circumference of the studs... but regardless it would end up with a larger diameter rotor flange for the calipers to clamp - thus necessitating much larger wheels and a different/larger caliper bracket. Those are my immediate thoughts... I agree with the direction of your question... but I can't imagine how many years it would be before I had to replace these rear rotors due to wear etc. I put 200k on the rear D80 rotors of my 2001 CTD towing a LOT before they gave up. 8-)
lol, didn't think about the ID. makes sense

Rotors dont last that long here, we get alot of rain, and at winter times salt on the roads. the last maybe a few years before having to be replaced because of rust damages. especailly on cars that dont make many kilometers.
at the shop where i work some cars need new rear rotors every year.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanxs
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:39 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I had to register just to tell you thank you for the best write-up on adding disc brakes to one of the big 'ol Dana's that I have found after months of searching on the web. Sure, I found plenty of brackets which some said work and others didn't and all of the caliper references, but your's is the absolute best with all of the pictures. I will be doing the exact same thing to my chevy dually and the Diy4x brackets are the ones which they say will actually fit the dually Budd wheels. Now I know exactly what I need to do step by step. This thread needs to be made known to the older dually owners who are pondering this conversion. My thanks again Mr. Pickens.
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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selling my setup

If anyone is interested, For Sale:

Caliper brackets, $80.95 [email protected] DIY4X.COM
DANA 70 dually disc conversion, Holes for mounting to axle me need to be repositioned.
Dana 70 Dually disc conversion

Calipers, Chevy ¾ ton 73-87, $65.98 set
Duralast remanufactured C530 & C531 with larger 3-5/32” piston, no e-bake, material removed for clearance

Brake Pads Chevy ¾ 73-87, $63.99 set
Duralast Gold SD, scrappers removed for clearance.

Rotors, Chevy 3500 express Van dually rotors, $122.98 set
Duralast 55075, hub clearance opened up to 5.33”

I had this set up mounted on my 1971 ford F350 with Dana 70 rear (dually). It all mounted up perfectly however my rims wouldn’t clear. My truck uses the old “coined” rims; DIY4X (manufacturers of the caliper brackets) thought that was the problem. They state that this conversion works with “most” duallys, just not mine.

I’m selling all of it for $150 + actually shipping.
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:45 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dlswyo View Post
If anyone is interested, For Sale:

Caliper brackets, $80.95 [email protected] DIY4X.COM
DANA 70 dually disc conversion, Holes for mounting to axle me need to be repositioned.
Dana 70 Dually disc conversion

Calipers, Chevy ¾ ton 73-87, $65.98 set
Duralast remanufactured C530 & C531 with larger 3-5/32” piston, no e-bake, material removed for clearance

Brake Pads Chevy ¾ 73-87, $63.99 set
Duralast Gold SD, scrappers removed for clearance.

Rotors, Chevy 3500 express Van dually rotors, $122.98 set
Duralast 55075, hub clearance opened up to 5.33”

I had this set up mounted on my 1971 ford F350 with Dana 70 rear (dually). It all mounted up perfectly however my rims wouldn’t clear. My truck uses the old “coined” rims; DIY4X (manufacturers of the caliper brackets) thought that was the problem. They state that this conversion works with “most” duallys, just not mine.

I’m selling all of it for $150 + actually shipping.
It's been 3 years so I'm guessing all of this is sold, but I'd thought I'd ask anyway. Do you have it?
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:33 AM   #23 (permalink)
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It's been 3 years so I'm guessing all of this is sold, but I'd thought I'd ask anyway. Do you have it?
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Just wanted to say thanks for the detailed write-up. Registered now, and my swap is well underway. Basically copied your setup for my '76 1-ton dually. It's getting a '93 12-valve with with a 46RH and NP205. It's got the Dana 60 front and 70 rear. Just got the DOM tubing yesterday to start my 4-link setup. Should be a good time. I'll make sure to start a build thread and add plenty of pictures. Thanks again for the info.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Just found this thread. Great source of info for a disc brake swap.
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